Suppressors Flames out the end of my TBAC 30BA???

[WB300]

Been shooting a load out of my .300WM 30BA for years without a hitch. Load is 69 grains H4831 under SMK 190. I started load development for 208 Amax over H1000 and while pressure testing for max loads, I noticed a nice orange flame out of the can. I never made it past 75.5 grains because the powder started compressing and I didn't want to go beyond that. I never had any pressure signs and I'm still below book max. Even as low as 72 grains, there is flame. Other observers said it was only 4 to 6 inches of flame.

WTF????

If I wasn't using a can, I really wouldn't care. But is this safe for the can?

I could always load down to where there is no flame, but then I'd be basically shooting a .30-06.

Stick is a custom with a tight chamber and a 25 1/2" Hart barrel.

Thought and opinions please.

Bill

 

[Zak Smith]

Won't be a problem for the can.

It just means you have some combustible material left

 

[Twitch2120]

paint a dragons head on the end of your can

 

[noz455sd]

I used my 338BA on a 300BLK upper for maybe 100 rounds or sound then i wanted to test some loads for my FN SPR in 308 with the can on and it was throwing white sparks....no baffle strikes so my guess is a lot of unburned powder residue in the can? i put maybe 10 308 rounds through it and it did it every time

 

[WB300]

As always... Zak and TBAC Customer Service is unapralleled. Many Thanks.

Twitch... You ain't right. But I love it!

 

[RonA]

The suppressor is vapor locked. Just split a grapefruit down a bit past center with a knife and slide it over the suppressor, then wrap it with electrical tape to hold it on. That will absorb the heat.

 

[rjrivero]

The suppressor is vapor locked. Just split a grapefruit down a bit past center with a knife and slide it over the suppressor, then wrap it with electrical tape to hold it on. That will absorb the heat.

Ron Allen, I presume? Your sense of humor is hard to miss.

 

[JJones75]

H1000 is slower burning than the 4831 so you are probably just getting some thats not totally burned off getting out of the can like Zac said

 

[Zak Smith]

Also we've found that H1000 produces carbon fouling at a rate dramatically higher than other powders typically in use for .308, .260, 7, .300, etc.

 

[WB300]

Also we've found that H1000 produces carbon fouling at a rate dramatically higher than other powders typically in use for .308, .260, 7, .300, etc.

Thanks Zak. Are we talking about carbon fouling in the barrel, and dealing with the "ring of death?" Or are we talking about carbon fouling inside the can, which will cause other issues?

 

[WB300]

The suppressor is vapor locked. Just split a grapefruit down a bit past center with a knife and slide it over the suppressor, then wrap it with electrical tape to hold it on. That will absorb the heat.

Ummmmm...... Were you by any chance at an unamed University in PA around 1990??? We had a VERY similar "incident" involving a potato gun.

No need for Myth Busters to bust this one. lol!

 

[Zak Smith]

Inside the can.

 

[varmint slayer]

I can attest to H1000 making a can dirty in a hurry. This is my 30P-1 that has had about 5000 rounds of H1000 and maybe 1000 misc powders through it. It weighed in a 24.4 OZ and should weigh in around 16-17 oz new.

 

[WB300]

Holy crap v-slayer!!! Any loss of accuracy? Increase in noise? Any noticable anything??? I treat my 30BA better than my dog, truck, girlfriend..... And I want to make this thing last as long as possible. Have you cleaned it somehow at all?

Other than not shooting H1000, any way I can avoid this?

 

[Zak Smith]

If they get really really heavy you'll notice the sound suppression will decrease some. Most people do not have a problem with excessive carbon accumulation. If you do shoot a powder that does it, such as H1000 as mentioned, we recommend cleaning when you see about +5 ounces over stock. CLR or "the dip" both work well, just be careful with the solution that you end up with because it's toxic.

 

[Velocity]

Newby here. In fact maybe my first post. Does anybody talk about overbore these days. I always thought that breathing fire was because there was more powder in the cartridge than could be burned before the bullet left the barrel. Is that what's happening here? I had a friend that converted an old 8mm mauser to 8mm'06 improved back in the day (early sixties). That thing had about a five foot flame in front of it.

 

[varmint slayer]

No loss in accuracy but suppression levels were a shade louder than a clean 30P-1. Been soaking it in CLR for 48 hours now and I'm still getting crap out of it. I can see bare metal from the muzzle end but still a pretty good amount of carbon on the threaded end. I'm going to weigh it tonight and see how much I've cleaned out of it. Started at 24.2 oz..

 

[WB300]

Keep us updated with your results. Is it straight CLR or a mix or diluted? Totally submerged? Is it doing anything to the finish? Are you just letting it soak or getting in there with a brush?

 

[varmint slayer]

Straight CLR, plugged the threaded end and filled up, no effect on the finish so far, and just letting it soak. I have dumped out the CLR every 12 hours or so and replaced with some new stuff. Don't know if that is necessary but I did it anyway.

 

[Zak Smith]

If you give it a good try and can't seem to get it out, you can send it back to us and we can clean it out for you

 

[matt2143]

Even my 30BA on my 20" 6.5 Creedmoor will spit sparks and flames at night. Just stuff still burning after the bullet exits.

 

[sakobob]

man i fell i got cheated, i have a 30p1 on a 300wm and don't get any flames.
all i get is a quiet accurate rifle. . . .going to send it back for the "flame and spark mod"

 

[mdmp5]

I used my 338BA on a 300BLK upper for maybe 100 rounds or sound then i wanted to test some loads for my FN SPR in 308 with the can on and it was throwing white sparks....no baffle strikes so my guess is a lot of unburned powder residue in the can? i put maybe 10 308 rounds through it and it did it every time

White sparks is an indicator of titanium friction. You could be having light "strikes" (although in actuality it is most likely rubs). Check your end cap for slight signs of wear. Baffle or end cap strikes are not easy to see if there is light contact. The biggest indicator would be your POI shifting way off target unpredictably. If you POI is sound, then you most likely aren't getting strikes.