Is that the edelmans in Farmingdale NY?Coming back to this. I was in the safe taking inventory today. The original price tag is still on this black box pistol I posted. View attachment 8164642
Bought a few rifles there, that was a regular stop
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Join the contestIs that the edelmans in Farmingdale NY?Coming back to this. I was in the safe taking inventory today. The original price tag is still on this black box pistol I posted. View attachment 8164642
I’m not sure honestly. I traded a guy for this pistol, and he deals with a lot of estate stuff, so it could have came from there. I came across it in Raliegh, NC though.Is that the edelmans in Farmingdale NY?
Bought a few rifles there, that was a regular stop
So I learned something really interesting today... Facebook private discussion group called "Herschel House Long Rifles" for aficionados of contemporary long rifles.
The topic of 'deep crescent buttplates' came up... and the question was 'how to shoot them comfortably?' That led to a couple of the 'old timers' chiming in about the old 'Southern style' of shooting, especially small caliber rifles with rather 'heavy' barrels. .32, 40 and .45 barrels tend to be front heavy! The answer was a crescent butt plate.
My 'assumption' was that these rifles tended to be designed for stringy beanpole Scots-Irish Mountain folks, not 21st Century folks with huge shoulders/biceps/upper bodies (in comparison to our ancestors). Or that the deeply curved buttplates were for Scheutzen or 'strange positional' shooting used in those old matches. Nope... everything to do with the shooting stance, in large part to support a muzzle-heavy rifle. The Southern stance, which was not the classic 'weaver' style that we think of today... (Weaver is not just for handguns) is ideal for the type of rifles favored... long, small caliber front-heavy rifles.
The classic, flat buttplate shooting style we are all used to vs. the "Southern Style" is superbly illustrated in this video. With the rifle shot 'across your chest' making use of the curved buttplate.
The difference of putting the rifle in the crook of your arm and shooting 'across' your chest is really amazing... because with a lot of my old rifles I've been shooting them 'wrong' when it comes to using the ergonomics correctly. And this isn't just frontstuffers, but 'modern' rifles which offered rather deeply curved buttplates as an option well into the 20th Century. Why? Because customers used to shooting 'across the chest' wanted to order guns that fit the way they shot... not order guns that required them to re-learn shooting! So deep crescents were available well into the 20th century by special order... for shooters who shot 'across the chest.'
Here's some examples that I went off to play with during the "Fakebook" discussion. And damn if all of a sudden these rifles didn't 'come alive' in my hands. Feel better. Dry fire better. And I guarantee when fired, the crescent wouldn't be digging in to my shoulder... it would be riding on the bicep where it was perfectly comfortable.
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Top to bottom... late 19th century Percussion 'target' rifle from Ct.; a C. Kemper Flintlock (classic Southern style .45); a Winchester 95 in .303 Brit; a Remington Model 25 in .32-20; and an early Model 94 in .32 Special. All these rifles, it turns out, shoot much better 'across' the chest. Meaning I'm going to have to learn a whole new shooting style for these types of guns. Which is fine. I love learning new things.
Just thought folks here would appreciate this! Fascinating rabbit hole I went down today and learned a lot... including why 'archaic' buttplates were still being put on rifles long after the Caplock era was over.
Any day you learn something is a good day!
Cheers,
Sirhr
That’s interesting for sure.Oh... then you didn't get the "lifetime warranty" reference. For an extra $25 or so you could buy one for any gun you bought. Don't know if anyone ever collected. lol I have a couple for guns my dad bought there in the 70s.
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I'm going to jump on the carved, extra fancy maple, Woods Runner, Kibler. I've spent hours looking through the Track of the Wolf catalog, and it's overwhelming. I don't mind doing the work, but I don't want to waste 6 months trying to get all the right shit together with half of it on backorder. That they offer a kit with a CNC lock and fine wood is well enough to sell me!Maple!
Walnut on a longrifle is like pineapple on a pizza. Sorry @SONIC SAAMI
You will not regret the kibler!
Sirhr
Rust bluing is an easy process.I'm going to jump on the carved, extra fancy maple, Woods Runner, Kibler. I've spent hours looking through the Track of the Wolf catalog, and it's overwhelming. I don't mind doing the work, but I don't want to waste 6 months trying to get all the right shit together with half of it on backorder. That they offer a kit with a CNC lock and fine wood is well enough to sell me!
What bluing kit are you using? I know how to make the extra fancy maple stock pop, and make the brass look good, but I am not hands-on familiar with the bluing process for the steel. Does anyone DIY hot bluing, or is cold the only home process? I guess I don't want to make it Colt Python silky, but I also don't want it to look like backwoods gunsmithing bullshit... I am not wed to "authentic", I just want it to look as good as it can look, because the stock should be out of this world. I have several ideas for an inlay and some wire work I will add. Just need some guidance on the steel.
I'm going to jump on the carved, extra fancy maple, Woods Runner, Kibler. I've spent hours looking through the Track of the Wolf catalog, and it's overwhelming. I don't mind doing the work, but I don't want to waste 6 months trying to get all the right shit together with half of it on backorder. That they offer a kit with a CNC lock and fine wood is well enough to sell me!
What bluing kit are you using? I know how to make the extra fancy maple stock pop, and make the brass look good, but I am not hands-on familiar with the bluing process for the steel. Does anyone DIY hot bluing, or is cold the only home process? I guess I don't want to make it Colt Python silky, but I also don't want it to look like backwoods gunsmithing bullshit... I am not wed to "authentic", I just want it to look as good as it can look, because the stock should be out of this world. I have several ideas for an inlay and some wire work I will add. Just need some guidance on the steel.
This is plum brown finished. It is super simple to useYou want to use Browning on it.
Birch wood Casey or similar plum brown. Most authentic.
There are other browning solutions in TOTW. But BC is easy to find and predictable. Good YouTube videos on browning.
Also use aqua fortis and a heat gun to bring g grain out. And oil finish.
Cheers, Sirhr
Nice piece.. is that the original stock?? Thanks,,,working on a very similar project…
Thanks. Original stock was in bad shape, that is a Boyds I refinished.Nice piece.. is that the original stock?? Thanks,,,working on a very similar project…
Charlie112
You did a great job on those though! Nice rifles and beautiful work.I've built 3 and all of them have been Jim Chambers kits. Started on a whim as a Traditions kids for a Christmas present from my wife but soon realized that there is a big difference in quality of kits. Chambers kits are a lot of work and I was way over my skis at first, put over 250 hours into my first rifle and was down to about 100 for my third. They are a 54 cal, 40 cal and 20 ga fowler. Flinters are a hoot to shoot but very humbling...
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Loose powder isn't as fast or convenient as the pellets... But, yes, it will allow you to fine tune your load better.My father in law gave me his Traditions .50 caliber inline muzzle loader about 4 years ago, and my son and I only recently shot it for the first time. We've used sabots with .44 caliber XTP's and .45 caliber truncated cone bullets I cast and powder coated for my 45acp, all with Pyrodex pellets.
Yesterday we went to my friends farm and did some black powder shooting to get ready for deer season. I had bought some .495" lead balls and lubed patches to try, and with one pellet they were quite accurate at 50 yards. My friend told me that I would get better accuracy with one pellet instead of two since it's a 1:32 twist.
I don't know Jack about this stuff, so I'm taking him at his word. Since my farthest shot at a deer on my place will be within 50 yards, I'm happy with it.
I am considering trying some loose powder instead of the pellets, just to see how it does. I can fine tune the charge weight and experiment, which should be fun.
This is my son after shooting it for the first time about three weeks ago. View attachment 8270881View attachment 8270882
Has anybody here built a Baker rifle? What kind of powder charge does it take?
ps, two days after I took this photo the smoothbore, third from the top, took a nice fat doe.Before opening day of Pennsylvania early muzzleloader season we decided a photo of the arsenal at camp was necessary View attachment 8273484
Very nice, been years since I hunted with my smokepole, thanks.ps, two days after I took this photo the smoothbore, third from the top, took a nice fat doe.
I had forgotten about this. Here they are... Bedford on top. Smoothie on the bottom.I'm at the salt mines right now...
I'll try to remember to get some pics of my babies when I get home. I have a Bedford county in .45 flint and a "poor boy" smoothbore.
I've been kicking around the idea of trying to duplicate the Timothy Murphy shot that killed Gen. Fraser at the battle of Saratoga... Accounts differ but it was somewhere around 250-300 yards.
Mike
"Hunting" today (aka bored, freezing, sitting in the snow), I wanted to take an ironic traditional muzzle loading photo.
View attachment 8295186
Tryon?"Hunting" today (aka bored, freezing, sitting in the snow), I wanted to take an ironic traditional muzzle loading photo.
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Have you tried minié balls in the new bore?Yep. 1980 production, I bought well used and "customized"/altered. Probably over paid, but I did so because someone else had already done "wrong" things to it, so I didn't have to feel bad about doing them myself.
I sent the barrel out this spring to have it made into a .58 round ball shooter. I like it a lot more now. When it was a fifty, with my few range trips of experimenting, the thing it shot the best was sabots & pistol bullets. And while they were my own cast 300gr HP's, I just could not abide by the whole idea, it was just one thing too much. It now shoots MUCH better than I ever got it shoot as a .50. It was loved, someone used the heck out of it, so there was probably some combination of things it liked, but I bought it with the intention of having it re-bored. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't ruining something amazing before having it opened up, I tried balls, a whole bunch of different lead bullet styles, as well as a few sabot styles with pistol bullets. I wasn't exactly disappointed when it didn't "wow" me with anything. It certainly shot good enough to hunt with, but was thoroughly unimpressive.
While it's not old it's a lot of fun and is becoming a new thing to learn. My dad gave me his Pedersoli 1874 45-70 earlier this year. We haven't shot black powder in it ever just smokeless.
After playing with this it has me looking at a 1900s built Winchester highwall in 38-55 that's here in town. I am really interested in BPCR now.