I am running my suppressor more and more on my ARs, M1A, and Bolt action rifles. I have already fixed the gas blowback on my M1A by installing a gas shield (from a blank firing adapter kit). As far as the gas blowback on my ARs are concerned, i just wanted to ask what everyone else's opinions are for that issue. i know that I can swap out the gas blocks for an adjustable gas block, but I would think that getting new charging handles or DIYing the charging handles would be cheaper. What are you guys doing?
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Suppressors gas blowback when using a suppressor on ar-15: gas buster charging handle or diy solution?
- Thread starter jsmythe
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A charging handle and a Lantec EBCG cut mine about 30%-40%. The ports are larger and the farther rear port is actually redirected so the gas is pushed to the 1-2 o’clock area instead of strait back.
My gun is a 10.5 shorty running black hills 77 stuff.
My gun is a 10.5 shorty running black hills 77 stuff.
I did the diy rtv on my charging handle and it didn't do fuck all. Mine is a DD MK18 with a saker. I need to drop the coin for a gas block and heavier buffer.
I'm not a fan of adj. gas blocks and fucking with the recoil system outside the desired parameters. All my shit, short barrel, long barrel, supers or subs, suppressed or not, they all run like raped apes. So what I did was install gasbusters in ALL my AR's. Do they work? It's not a magic solution, but it helps cut down on gas face a LOT, and almost eliminates the most annoying part of gas face, which is gas in the eyes. I found out how well they work when I took a 16" rifle to the range week before last and noticed I was getting a lot of gas face compared to the SBR's I had with me. Looked down and sure enough, it still had typical extended charging handle. It's since been changed out. The gasbuster isn't anything special --if you have access to a mill or possibly could be done with a drill press, then you could DIY a less expensive charging handle provided it has the extra bulk the gasbuster has. I'm sure you could do this on KAC handles, and I imagine there are others a well. On the other hand, the gasbuster is in and of itself a well made charging handle, not flimsy like the stock one (feels more solid) so it's probably worth the price. The combat latch is really nice on these IME. You can also put RTV on these too and use the gasbuster AND the DIY method. Look on YouTube for instructions on how to do it the right way. They typically don't mention it, but I feel the use of some kind of release agent brushed on the areas you don't want the RTV to bond to would help. It's just RTV on the outside of the weapon between the upper and charging handle in that little arc shaped gap in the rear. If it fails or falls off, it won't hinder the operation of the rifle any and can be fixed later. I haven't used RTV on these gasbusters, yet anyway, but I do plan on taking two rifles with the same actions and barrels and testing 'em side by side, one with RTV the other without, both with gasbusters to see how well it works out and if it's worth it to do both.
I put a JP adjustable gas block on my SBR. It’s a DD MK18 and it works great. Friend of mine put an adjustable BCG in his and it works really well as well so I would say either one of those is your best bet.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP I would be more concerned on exactly what the additional pressure from the DI system is doing to your buffer and BCG. The reason behind the adjustable gas block is two fold. One, you reduce the pressure in the DI system thus keeping the force on the BCG and buffer to nominal ( un-suppressed) levels. The second, I believe it is just a benefit of achieving the first reason, is reduced gas in the face of the operator. I have had experience with Colt LEO Issued Full Auto SBR's running that exact same round, once the suppressors were added the gas was unbearable, but what they didn't immediately recognize is that the felt recoil was much more, immediate reliability issues ensued, while I believe that they recognized and solved the problem before damage was done to the rifle, it has proven to me that the gas block is more than just a user comfort feature. Once again YMMV but I highly recommend the adjustable one, from an engineers standpoint and a shooter.
How do you know he has additional pressure? Suppressed AR's run dirty, period. I suppose you could adjust the gas down to a minimum and I hear enough of you claim they work to doubt it, but it WILL mess with reliability --if you are getting almost no extra gas using a suppressor, how do you expect it to run right when you take the can off? Adjustable gas blocks aren't necessary, Eugene Stoner never needed 'em, the military never needed 'em and I don't need 'em. I do need my rifle to work regardless of ammo or suppressor though, and since most factory rifles are designed that way, that's how I build mine. I use the correct buffer weight, I don't make shit up or play with different weights. I look up the chart and get the buffer required for the barrel length and caliber. IF I need a bit more umph, I use a Wolf+ buffer spring; only needed to do that once or twice.
IF I got an adj. gas block, the only one I'd consider is the Noveske switchblock. It's simple, two positions, rugged and I suppose it wouldn't be too much to have to fuck with. But I've never needed one. Did own a couple in the past, a set screw block and a Syrac I think. Got rid of both, the set screw model was the absolute worst. Besides, most of my gas blocks are under a tube and can't easily be reached. Now if this is a RANGE TOY, or for competition only, ignore all I say. Play with it all you want, get it to be "just right" for each load if you like. If this is a DEFENSE WEAPON, stay away or call Noveske and talk to them about the use and limitations of the switchblock.
Anyway, OP is interested in mitigating gas face. A gasbuster is cheaper and simpler to install and I guarantee he'll like it better than the stock one or whatever he has on it currently. They'd be nice even if they didn't affect gas. You can try the RTV, it's worth a shot and won't hurt anything. And make sure you have the proper buffer in it, most use standard or H1 but look up a buffer weight chart online. If need be, install a new spring if the one in it is weak. I'd get a couple Wolff+ buffer springs just to have on hand also.
There are gas piston models that do away with gas in the action altogether, like the HK (I'd actually like a couple of these myself, only piston AR I'm interested in) and one other option that I hear of is a modified upper (and bcg?) that vents gas out the side of the upper. Don't know who makes that or how well it works, but not keen on having holes in the side of my upper or gimmicks on a weapon. But for a range toy it may be okay.
Good luck and remember to not overthink this. 15 AR's I have, and each have gasbusters, standard gas blocks, and each one has the appropriate buffer in it. Zero problems. I do get a bit of gas, yeah, but not enough to bother me, not enough to sting the nose or eyes. And I didn't sacrifice or put reliability of my rifle in jeopardy to achieve this.
IF I got an adj. gas block, the only one I'd consider is the Noveske switchblock. It's simple, two positions, rugged and I suppose it wouldn't be too much to have to fuck with. But I've never needed one. Did own a couple in the past, a set screw block and a Syrac I think. Got rid of both, the set screw model was the absolute worst. Besides, most of my gas blocks are under a tube and can't easily be reached. Now if this is a RANGE TOY, or for competition only, ignore all I say. Play with it all you want, get it to be "just right" for each load if you like. If this is a DEFENSE WEAPON, stay away or call Noveske and talk to them about the use and limitations of the switchblock.
Anyway, OP is interested in mitigating gas face. A gasbuster is cheaper and simpler to install and I guarantee he'll like it better than the stock one or whatever he has on it currently. They'd be nice even if they didn't affect gas. You can try the RTV, it's worth a shot and won't hurt anything. And make sure you have the proper buffer in it, most use standard or H1 but look up a buffer weight chart online. If need be, install a new spring if the one in it is weak. I'd get a couple Wolff+ buffer springs just to have on hand also.
There are gas piston models that do away with gas in the action altogether, like the HK (I'd actually like a couple of these myself, only piston AR I'm interested in) and one other option that I hear of is a modified upper (and bcg?) that vents gas out the side of the upper. Don't know who makes that or how well it works, but not keen on having holes in the side of my upper or gimmicks on a weapon. But for a range toy it may be okay.
Good luck and remember to not overthink this. 15 AR's I have, and each have gasbusters, standard gas blocks, and each one has the appropriate buffer in it. Zero problems. I do get a bit of gas, yeah, but not enough to bother me, not enough to sting the nose or eyes. And I didn't sacrifice or put reliability of my rifle in jeopardy to achieve this.
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Radian Raptor-SD AR15 Ambidextrous Charging Handle
Check this out at slow motion
https://youtu.be/ccrgz7kyzJA
Check this out at slow motion
https://youtu.be/ccrgz7kyzJA
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Crap I just put a sbr together for suppressed used and wasn't aware of this.
More money mo money haha
More money mo money haha
See this when shooting with Suppressor can not see any smoke ? ? ?
https://youtu.be/wvO0La-kVy8 at time 7:35
https://youtu.be/wvO0La-kVy8 at time 7:35
I don't want to redirect this thread but piggy back a little on it. If you reduce the blowback, back pressure in an AR, whether its from the can or DIY job does that also reduce the sound signature at the shooter ear as well when suppressed?
I have silencerco Saker 762 Suppressors weight 23.4 oz. is heavy so I like to order the Saker 556 weight only 18.0 oz. or Saker 556K weight 14.2 oz.
And Size " smaller and compact "
why I picky the weight because my AR is like 5.4 lbs. ( with no flipping sights ) so keep light
like this one
And Size " smaller and compact "
why I picky the weight because my AR is like 5.4 lbs. ( with no flipping sights ) so keep light
like this one
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How well does the Radian SD perform? I’m thinking of a picking one up as well, so I’m a bit curious. Do tell.
Radian Raptor-SD AR15 Ambidextrous Charging Handle
check this out " at slow motion " time 4:40
https://youtu.be/ccrgz7kyzJA
check this out " at slow motion " time 4:40
https://youtu.be/ccrgz7kyzJA
This question opens the doors to a lot of questions. What’ is the best commercial charging handle on the market for shooting a suppressed 5.56 AR? I’ve got a DDM4V1 & I’m waiting on a SUREFIRE can that’s in ATF jail right now. I’ve shot several suppressed rifles & pistols, but this will also be my first can. Right now, I’m running a stock GI charging handle but I’ve been planning to upgrade to an oversized charging handle. I want to avoid gas in my mouth &face as much as possible. There are a few brands out there who claim to vent gas to the right, etc so I’m curious as to what y’all recommend.
The PRI Gasbuster has a pretty solid reputation. The Radian Raptor SD & the Geisselle Super Charging Handle also come highly recommended. What have y’all found that works the best?
The PRI Gasbuster has a pretty solid reputation. The Radian Raptor SD & the Geisselle Super Charging Handle also come highly recommended. What have y’all found that works the best?
The very best low blowback Suppressors OSS ( 2018 have new lightweight model )
https://youtu.be/ZZE6EBXbQZw
https://youtu.be/ZZE6EBXbQZw
The best setup possible is the Superlative Arms AGB + Armageddon Tactical GMS-15 Gen II Charging handle: http://www.tacticallink.com/Armageddon-Tactical-GMS-15-Ambidextrous-Charging-Handle-for-AR15.html
Add an LMT Enhanced BCG if you really want to go all out.
Add an LMT Enhanced BCG if you really want to go all out.
As I’ve stated earlier I was looking to upgrade to an oversized charging handle. You’ve used the Geissele charging handle on suppressed ARs & it (they) ran well?
The reason I ask is that while the PRI Gasbuster may work well, ideally I’d like a larger latch on the unit. I haven’t seen the PRI in the flesh, but it doesn’t look very big when compared to a BCM Gunfighter or Geissele, etc.
The reason I ask is that while the PRI Gasbuster may work well, ideally I’d like a larger latch on the unit. I haven’t seen the PRI in the flesh, but it doesn’t look very big when compared to a BCM Gunfighter or Geissele, etc.
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