Gen 2 Ford Raptor owners. Who here has one?

I have driven both on separate occasions, not head to head. So I'll have to take your word for it I guess. It's not the impression I got. If I was going to play Raptor again, I'd find a nice 6.2L and throw a Hellion turbo kit in it. Then you'd have something to talk about. Or look at the Hennessey Velociraptor.

140k-150k im out
 
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You can buy a base extra cab raptor for around $55K, that's a lot of coin but you're getting a hell of a lot of truck that is still really well appointed. Also if you want to sell it a couple years later, you're going to get most of your money back, resale on these things is insane.

I'm not a sales guy and I don't really care what you buy, it's just a realistic observation.
 
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But then you'd have 2 soyboy V6s :LOL:

There's always the 6.2L with the Hellion turbo.

Take it from someone who poured $10k into a fiesta ST and then realized that it's not a good platform for 450hp, you don't get that money back.
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Ray Charles could see that that was a bad Idea. A Fiesta? lol

You never get any money back on vehicles. Much like electronics, they are toys, not investments. I have about $15k of aftermarket shit on my current Dmax, and am well aware that that money was spent for my current enjoyment and will never be recovered.
 
Oh, I am, did you miss the "naturally aspirated or otherwise" part? My LML is putting 605hp and 1050tq to the ground and it doesn't have to pipe fake engine sound through the stereo. That is the gayest shit I have ever heard. The Twin Scroll turbo I6 in my wife's X3 is fun.

Edit: I had a 6.2 raptor and it was an absolute blast to drive. I have to close friends with the EcoRaptor and I have driven both. Hard pass.

So that’s it? Two cylinders makes all the difference.
 
And as I said, If I was going to play that game again, I'd turbo charge the 6.2L. I don't want a minivan motor in my truck. You guys sound like a bunch of the "ricers" I went to high school with that were trying to make their Honda keep up.

6.2L with a turbo > 3.5L with a turbo
 
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If I could afford one I would buy it. Settled on a 19 xlt 2.7 magnetic grey and it’s a great truck. I like what ford is doing with their trucks. The super duty’s are really nice also.
 
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I love pulling up next to the the 3.5l raptors in my power wagon with 6.4L hemi 😁.
Unfortunately, after the light turns green, all I can see Is their tail lights, lol.

After test driving both the 6.2 and 3.5, I definitely enjoyed driving the 6.2 more. If they offered a bigger cab or bed I would have bought one
 
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I hunted for my Gen 1 for a while. I just couldn't do the V6. Found my 13 Roush out of state. I have had it for a little more than a year and love the 590hp! I want to do the GT500 throttle body and tune. Advertised to bump it up to 675 hp. Not going to get that much power from the V6
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And as I said, If I was going to play that game again, I'd turbo charge the 6.2L. I don't want a minivan motor in my truck. You guys sound like a bunch of the "ricers" I went to high school with that were trying to make their Honda keep up.

6.2L with a turbo > 3.5L with a turbo

Next time someone wants a recommendation for a long range cartridge I’m going to reply

50 BMG > 6.5 Creedmoor


Because ya know, there’s no replacement for displacement.
 
We had a first gen raptor traded in the shop last week for PDI, it was beautiful. Black Rhino wheels, tune and exhaust. I took it to lunch and it was a great truck, drove a stock 2.7 ecoboost XLT home that night, the XLT was noticeably faster.

Soooo...I have driven a couple of my guys XLT's with the 3.5TT...they are all way faster feeling than my Raptor. I'm convinced it's the gigantic/heavy tires. It just doesn't make sense otherwise.

The truck has 450HP...it yearns for 550-600 to really start feeling "Baja".

I still really like mine for the purpose I use it for.

Oh yeah don't buy a Raptor to tow with...seriously don't.
 
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I didn’t read many replies - figured they were like any other Raptor thread.

I have an ‘18. Mid level trim package, bought it 1800 miles away for less than MSRP. Gets 16-18 MPG. Hauls ass too. I have SuperDuty trucks for towing so this is my going to town for parts work truck. No complaints whatsoever. Everyone who has ever ridden in it has been impressed.

Beach pic is Pismo - was too busy to take any action pics but it kept up with a built Dodge Cummins on 40s w/long travel Kings
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I have a boner for a super cab Raptor currently, and it looks to be discontinued for 2020. I prefer a shorter truck for maneuvering offroad and parking in my garage, so I’d rather not have a 4 door. I can afford it, my wife is seemingly endorsing it, but I’m still having a hard time spending north of $70K on a truck ($66K plus tax and plates, then another $3500 for extended warranty). I’m going to test drive one on Thursday, it’s 801a but doesn’t have the torsion front diff I want. There is a similar truck in CA with the Torsion diff, but they want $5K over MSRP. As a toy I’d be fine with the 800a trim, but as a daily driver I’d at least want the 801a for heated seats and power pedals (wife is short). She suggested if I’m doing it just to get the 802a with all the cool shit for $7K more.

I was looking at selling my 2006 Dodge 2500 and my 2015 VW Passat TDI to partially fund the Raptor. My wife suggested selling her 2015 Touareg TDI as well and leasing her something more basic like another Subaru (she leased an outback before). Selling all three cars would probably net me $45-50K towards the Raptor so two smaller payments of around $300 each vs one large one of about $850.
 
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I have a boner for a super cab Raptor currently, and it looks to be discontinued for 2020. I prefer a shorter truck for maneuvering offroad and parking in my garage, so I’d rather not have a 4 door. I can afford it, my wife is seemingly endorsing it, but I’m still having a hard time spending north of $70K on a truck ($66K plus tax and plates, then another $3500 for extended warranty). I’m going to test drive one on Thursday, it’s 801a but doesn’t have the torsion front diff I want. There is a similar truck in CA with the Torsion diff, but they want $5K over MSRP. As a toy I’d be fine with the 800a trim, but as a daily driver I’d at least want the 801a for heated seats and power pedals (wife is short). She suggested if I’m doing it just to get the 802a with all the cool shit for $7K more.

I was looking at selling my 2006 Dodge 2500 and my 2015 VW Passat TDI to partially fund the Raptor. My wife suggested selling her 2015 Touareg TDI as well and leasing her something more basic like another Subaru (she leased an outback before). Selling all three cars would probably net me $45-50K towards the Raptor so two smaller payments of around $300 each vs one large one of about $850.
Definitely get the 802a package. MSRP are usually 72k-75k in my area. Plus the add ons and warranty. Easy to spend 82k-85k before tax. I think my dealer may have a few left.

These will hold there value very well as the gen 3 is rumored to be a hybrid.
 
Silverado 5.3 with a whipple, problem solved.

If it had to be a ford, I'd spring for the 5.0 or 6.2 and add some bolt ons. Our 5.0 trucks with the 10 speed are fairly fun to drive. You could get much more for the money vs a over priced raptor.
 
Silverado 5.3 with a whipple, problem solved.

If it had to be a ford, I'd spring for the 5.0 or 6.2 and add some bolt ons. Our 5.0 trucks with the 10 speed are fairly fun to drive. You could get much more for the money vs a over priced raptor.
Your not going to get the power to weight distribution w that setup, nor will you get the hi tech suspension!
 
Anyone claiming to buy a regular F150 and build it obviously hasn’t done the math or their time is free. And you won’t have any resale value or blue book value when you are done. My 801a has most of the options as 802a, just not stupid electronic shit. Front Torsen is nice but you can’t do donuts and drift worth a shit, it just hooks up and goes straight. Rear suspension isn’t that great on washboard roads, most guys have swapped Deaver spring packs in to get rid of block and limit axle wrap and chatter

Use the search on Ford.com and you can manually edit the search radius in the address bar of your browser to increase the range. Jot down a few zip codes from across the country and see what is on dealers‘ lots and for how long. You can view window stickers and can find exactly what you want
 
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If you search for one in a outlying area and are willing to travel, there are deals to be had. Get on the Raptor forums also.
The dealers that drop their pants are on there.
 
Definitely get the 802a package. MSRP are usually 72k-75k in my area. Plus the add ons and warranty. Easy to spend 82k-85k before tax. I think my dealer may have a few left.

These will hold there value very well as the gen 3 is rumored to be a hybrid.

MSRP on a 802a Super Cab is around $66K without any of the stupid decals or beadlock wheels. 800a are $54,800, 801a are $59-60K. The $72-75k trucks are Super Crew with the f-ing sunroof and $2K worth of decals, $1K carbon fiber plastics, and probably beadlock ready wheels for $2K. Most of the preordered trucks are packed with crap to jack the price.

Silverado 5.3 with a whipple, problem solved.

If it had to be a ford, I'd spring for the 5.0 or 6.2 and add some bolt ons. Our 5.0 trucks with the 10 speed are fairly fun to drive. You could get much more for the money vs a over priced raptor.

For some reason there isn’t enough shoulder room in the Silverado for me, my shoulder rubs on the B pillar with the seat all the way back. As others said, still missing the suspension and warranty. I looked at making a 2020 Lightning with a regular cab Coyote truck, but the XLT 4x4 is $40K and the Roush supercharger kit is $10K. For $5K more I could have a base Raptor with better base equipment and far better resale.

Anyone claiming to buy a regular F150 and build it obviously hasn’t done the math or their time is free. And you won’t have any resale value or blue book value when you are done. My 801a has most of the options as 802a, just not stupid electronic shit. Front Torsen is nice but you can’t do donuts and drift worth a shit, it just hooks up and goes straight. Rear suspension isn’t that great on washboard roads, most guys have swapped Deaver spring packs in to get rid of block and limit axle wrap and chatter

Use the search on Ford.com and you can manually edit the search radius in the address bar of your browser to increase the range. Jot down a few zip codes from across the country and see what is on dealers‘ lots and for how long. You can view window stickers and can find exactly what you want

The Torsion diff is a want from my rock crawling days, but it probably makes the truck harder to control in snow than an open diff. I was already looking at the Deavers for the rear.

If you search for one in a outlying area and are willing to travel, there are deals to be had. Get on the Raptor forums also.
The dealers that drop their pants are on there.

Looking on AutoTrader there are only about 60 Super Cab trucks listed nation wide, compared to the 2500+ Super Crew trucks listed. Of those 60 there are only about a dozen 802a.
 
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My buddy who runs a dealer offered to order me any Raptor at invoice +$1000 today, so the $66K 802A Super Cab comes out at $63K plus taxes and such. I'm going to look at one elsewhere tomorrow and make the decision. I don't think it's worth ordering the 801A with options just to save $5-6K.
 
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My 19 Super Crew w 802a package MSRP was 74k w every option except the decals. Add a tonneau cover, $5600 warranty, service package, tax, tags, tuner = 90k minus down payment. Big nut to swallow but well worth it.... if you like to drive a performance style vehicle.
 
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This reminds me of the Savage, Tikka builds vs Surgeon, Accuracy International. They all are tools but some perform better than others LOL
 
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It’s your money... Won’t be mine... Ever!
Here’s my rules for a vehicle purchase: if it breaks during the warranty period you’re gonna fix it... promptly and courteously! If I break it outside of the warranty period I’ll gladly pay you to fix it... but... it better be right or you’ll be fixing it again on your time and on your dime. If I find even a hint that it broke due to a known issue, published, or otherwise, then you and/or Ford are gonna fix it (see first point above) or I’ll become your dealership’s worst nightmare... for however long it takes... If any of that is unacceptable you have every right to decline my business; I’ll peacefully be on my way. Just want you to know what you’re signing up for... 😉
 
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