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Gen 2 Ford Raptor owners. Who here has one?
- Thread starter Bender
- Start date
That’s why you negotiate the extended warranty down.It’s your money... Won’t be mine... Ever!
Here’s my rules for a vehicle purchase: if it breaks during the warranty period you’re gonna fix it... promptly and courteously! If I break it outside of the warranty period I’ll gladly pay you to fix it... but... it better be right or you’ll be fixing it again on your time and on your dime. If I find even a hint that it broke due to a known issue, published, or otherwise, then you and/or Ford are gonna fix it (see first point above) or I’ll become your dealership’s worst nightmare... for however long it takes... If any of that is unacceptable you have every right to decline my business; I’ll peacefully be on my way. Just want you to know what you’re signing up for...
he's right, though. they are huge profit-makers for the dealership, and only extend the factory warranty slightly because they overlap. the probability is that most people will never keep the car long enough to recoup the expenditure, and the vast majority never think to search out a potential refund when they trade it in.
Anymore Forscan, YouTube, and forums are more valuable than warranty. If it’s an electrical gremlin good luck getting any resolution from dealership level. If you are a high volume or great customer then maybe you can get something done but most likely it will come from corporate.
These latest generation F150s have been pretty damn reliable. There are some known issues but anymore I lean towards taking my chances and going with a reputable independent mechanic after warranty expires. Still use OEM parts or better but our dealership has really gone downhill in the past 5 years
These latest generation F150s have been pretty damn reliable. There are some known issues but anymore I lean towards taking my chances and going with a reputable independent mechanic after warranty expires. Still use OEM parts or better but our dealership has really gone downhill in the past 5 years
car dealerships are whores. they'll do anything for money. walk back in the day after a drag out fight, and if you have money and credit, the other salesmen will still beg for your business.Like I said: it’s your money... IMHO, if you're negotiating on the warranty you’re negotiating on the wrong thing... and probably too late... YMMV, of course...
My way’s been working for me for 40+ years. Only had to envoke the worst nightmare clause one time, with the local Volvo dealer on my wife’s V70 wagon. By the time we got done I ended up with a brand new replacement at dead cost less full retail value for the 50 K mile car they butchered ( which I independently verified ). I’m pretty sure they’d have been willing to pay me to just go away by the time we got done, but... we’ve done business twice since... just needed to develop a mutual understanding!
I just went to Flood Ford‘s site and priced the extended warranty and prepaid maintenance plans. I’m interested in the 8 year 125,000 mile plans:
Premiumcare (covers all the electronic gizmos too)
8/125 $0 deductible $2735
8/125 $50 deductible $2345
Premium maintenance (all regular services including shocks, spark plugs, brakes)
8/125 5K interval (25 services) $2745
8/125 10K interval (13 services) $1840
If I did the $50 deductible and the 5K interval plans I’d be spending $5090 for basically everything but tires to 125K on a high performance truck. The shock rebuilds are expensive, $700 from the aftermarket, and new replacement shocks are even more. Cam phasers out of warranty are expensive. I don’t even want to think about getting into that 10 speed trans $$$. 7.3% of the cost of the vehicle for those coverages seems like a no brainer. I work as a consultant in dealership service department, I see the bills that rack up on stuff over 100K. Also, these plans are transferable to another owner, so the resale value should be higher on the truck.
I had two major repairs on my VW Passat in the past 10K miles, one was a dual mass flywheel that was covered under warranty ($2400 otherwise, I was only a week from warranty expiration, I paid an extra $550 for a new clutch to go in while warranty was paying the labor) and the second was a water pump/timing belt (retail price about $1850, bro deal price was $1300). So yeah, I’m fine with paying for warranty.
Premiumcare (covers all the electronic gizmos too)
8/125 $0 deductible $2735
8/125 $50 deductible $2345
Premium maintenance (all regular services including shocks, spark plugs, brakes)
8/125 5K interval (25 services) $2745
8/125 10K interval (13 services) $1840
If I did the $50 deductible and the 5K interval plans I’d be spending $5090 for basically everything but tires to 125K on a high performance truck. The shock rebuilds are expensive, $700 from the aftermarket, and new replacement shocks are even more. Cam phasers out of warranty are expensive. I don’t even want to think about getting into that 10 speed trans $$$. 7.3% of the cost of the vehicle for those coverages seems like a no brainer. I work as a consultant in dealership service department, I see the bills that rack up on stuff over 100K. Also, these plans are transferable to another owner, so the resale value should be higher on the truck.
I had two major repairs on my VW Passat in the past 10K miles, one was a dual mass flywheel that was covered under warranty ($2400 otherwise, I was only a week from warranty expiration, I paid an extra $550 for a new clutch to go in while warranty was paying the labor) and the second was a water pump/timing belt (retail price about $1850, bro deal price was $1300). So yeah, I’m fine with paying for warranty.
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your salesman will be making at least $350 cash bonus on that warranty package, plus 20% of the front end profit on the truck and a varying amount up to 20% on the back end. plus unit bonus if he meets quota, up to 1k usually, and monthly warranty quota bonus which can be up to another 1k.
I'd at least ask to be taken out to dinner first.
I work in the car business, I know how it works. I would be purchasing the warranty from a dealer‘s website on the other side of the country, not from the dealer selling me the truck. The selling dealer would probably mark it up another 40% to sell it.
Included in that price i quoted for warranty, I had the undercarriage sprayed for extra protection from the salt in the NE and a leather conditioner/protectant applied. Im rough on vehicles and want this to last lol.
My dealer pulls up the Ford Esp site. You add your location and what package you want. No snake oil, no additional markup. I was also told the warranty is based on a F-150 and not the added goodies on the Raptor. Cheap insurance on a Raptor if you ask me.
We all have jobs...i could care less what the salesman made. Im glad i could help support his family. Shit i actually went back and leased my wife's Ford Edge ST a few months later. My dealer is awesome. No complaints.
I went through something similar in 2018 when I was looking to trade in my 2010 5.4L XLT 4x4. I really wanted a Raptor and still do to date. I test drove a handful of used 6.2L Gen1’s and a bunch of new 3.5L TT Gen2’s.
For me it was hard to find a Gen1 with less than 100k miles and the options I wanted in good condition, which pretty much ruled a Gen1 out.
I much preferred the 6.2L to the 3.5L TT. Which kinda gave me pause on the Gen2. If Ford ever puts a large V8 back in the Raptor I’ll be the first in line.
I went to six different dealerships and played them all against each other. I was able to get 2 dealerships down to right at MSRP or below. I still couldn’t pull the trigger on the 3.5L TT. I proceeded to look at King Ranch’s and Lariats and try the 3.0L Turbo Diesel and 5.0L V8. I Fell in love with the 5.0L v8 and walked off the lot with a Lariat FX4 5.0L v8. I couldn’t stand the Peanut Butter color in the King Ranch’s, why did they ever do away with the traditional dark brown?!?
For me it was hard to find a Gen1 with less than 100k miles and the options I wanted in good condition, which pretty much ruled a Gen1 out.
I much preferred the 6.2L to the 3.5L TT. Which kinda gave me pause on the Gen2. If Ford ever puts a large V8 back in the Raptor I’ll be the first in line.
I went to six different dealerships and played them all against each other. I was able to get 2 dealerships down to right at MSRP or below. I still couldn’t pull the trigger on the 3.5L TT. I proceeded to look at King Ranch’s and Lariats and try the 3.0L Turbo Diesel and 5.0L V8. I Fell in love with the 5.0L v8 and walked off the lot with a Lariat FX4 5.0L v8. I couldn’t stand the Peanut Butter color in the King Ranch’s, why did they ever do away with the traditional dark brown?!?
Yesterday I test drove a Leadfoot Scab 801a. It was exactly as awesome as I thought it would be, I’m ready to buy. I did think the truck was a little sluggish out of the hole, but it was 106 degrees with the AC cranked and I wasn’t in sport mode. Once it was in boost I was satisfied with the power. I loved the ride and handling, the sales guy was cool with me driving pretty aggressively.
That really has the potential to be epic. It's gonna need more brakes, suspension, cage..... I know someone working very hard on that engine right now. He said it's gonna be a monster.
My Gen1 is my dedicated hunting rig. Rigid regular and IR lighting up front to run in the dark with NODs. I had it vinyl wrapped so the fence line pinstripes don’t hurt so bad. All interior lighting changed to red LEDs. Mobilestrong gun vault in the bed to keep everything organized.
Spoiled brat, you likely installed some electronic gizmo & punched in a few settings.
Took me lots of hard parts & busted knuckles to supply enough air & fuel for my 3/4 ton six banger to put 454/955 to the ground, but it only weighs 5900lbs
Yes, fake engine noise through the stereo is gay. My AM/FM/cassette would unreel the tape in disgust.
Took me lots of hard parts & busted knuckles to supply enough air & fuel for my 3/4 ton six banger to put 454/955 to the ground, but it only weighs 5900lbs
Yes, fake engine noise through the stereo is gay. My AM/FM/cassette would unreel the tape in disgust.
Unfortunately it's getting difficult to find modern cars that don't do this. Either fake noises through stereo or with physical "sound tubes" through the firewall.
It's a result of constant improvements in sounds deadening and NVH reduction. I'm like bitch turn the NVH up to 11 and forget the fake toy car vroom vroom noises.
I've probably disabled in software or physically removed parts to disable this shit in 3 or 4 brands now.
Luckily my track Camaro is so fucking loud that even if it has this "feature" (I've never actually checked), it's completely drowned out by the exhaust.
I had the dealer place my order for a Leadfoot grey super cab 802A yesterday. It’s the most expensive thing I’ve ever bought besides a home, but it’ll be worth it. I’m going to be selling my diesel truck and my car to offset the cost. Now the waiting begins. Someone post snipers near all of the Ford truck plants so no looters fuck up my order.
The fake engine noise (which is hella gay) can be shut off with Forscan. Apparently there are a bunch of other tweaks that can be done to improve the truck experience too.
The fake engine noise (which is hella gay) can be shut off with Forscan. Apparently there are a bunch of other tweaks that can be done to improve the truck experience too.
Any of you long term owners ever have to service the dampers? How many miles did you get on them? Did they slowly die or fail suddenly? What kind of driving? Thanks.
Not sure about the new live valve units, but according to what I’ve read the 2018 and older needed to have the shocks rebuilt every 40-50K. There are companies that will do it for $600-900, sometimes on an exchange basis. Replacement is north of $3K for the set. Another reason why I’ll be purchasing the extended warranty and service plans.
I’ve rebuilt the Swayaway 2.5 shocks on by Bronco several times in 15 years. My brother had some early Fox replacement coilovers on his 2001 Tacoma, they made the bodies with HREW tubing and ground the seams out, I used to rebuild those every year.
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Make sure you budget for a N-Guage and 5-Star tuning. I changed the oil at 2500 miles and have ran a 93 Octane Performance tune since than. Its what the stock Raptor should have been.
I've needed to rebuild mine around 30k miles each time. Granted I use my truck at our ranch and I've also ran the TRR and also run the Baja twice.
I also upgraded to King 3.0's the first Gen1 and Fox 3.0 the second so I have my spare OEM Fox when I do the rebuilds.
Rebuilds take me approx 6hrs and I do them myself.
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Snipers Hide's to blame for yet another significant expenditure.
Was looking to replace my 130k mile '13 6.2L Platinum Steel Body Dream Truck and because of this thread, rooted out a well under 1K mile Ruby Red '14 Roush Rapter Sp Edition from an auto collector. Ordered new, trailered to buyer, driven lightly, never off-road, then stored for annual oil changes and monthly starts. Paid too much, but get to roll back the calendar with 2 years left on extended Ford 7 yr warranty. No Start/Stop, good ole steel, and 6.2 Loving Liters of Supercharged Global Warming Goodness.
Each of you should be ashamed for leading me down this path of perdition!
Was looking to replace my 130k mile '13 6.2L Platinum Steel Body Dream Truck and because of this thread, rooted out a well under 1K mile Ruby Red '14 Roush Rapter Sp Edition from an auto collector. Ordered new, trailered to buyer, driven lightly, never off-road, then stored for annual oil changes and monthly starts. Paid too much, but get to roll back the calendar with 2 years left on extended Ford 7 yr warranty. No Start/Stop, good ole steel, and 6.2 Loving Liters of Supercharged Global Warming Goodness.
Each of you should be ashamed for leading me down this path of perdition!
And you'll probably have less $$ expended in maintenance and it will be trouble free for far longer than most Ford models. I do like both Gen of Raptor's I've ridden in or driven - would be nice to have but it wouldn't make sense for me and my needs.
FWIW I love my F350 6.7 CCLB SRW 4x4 King Ranch and my Tundra. Different purposes, and I never buy new - I always let someone else pay the depreciation.
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My gen 2 is getting the similar MPG. This thread is turning into the exact same argument on the Raptor forums. The gen 1 guys mess with the gen 2 guys because their V8 ego.
I have had them both and while the purr of the 6.2 is great, ill take the mpg of my gen 2. I will say the gens 1 are now starting to grow in demand and appreciate in value.
I hate the moonroof in the gen2s... I can definitely say this. I am about to silicone mine shut.
I was on the fence about all the tech features on the 802A Gen 2 Raptor, but with proper warranty I shouldn’t have to worry about it before 8 years from now. I wouldn’t but anything with a sunroof unless it absolutely couldn’t be avoided.
A guy at my range has the Shelby truck I asked him just out of curiosity what it cost he said nearly 100 grand
I must be living in a homeless camp I have a 99 F2 50 with 300,000 miles on it but I am starting to build a new house and cannot even think of a new vehicle for many years I will just keep it going
I purchased a 2020 Raptor SuperCab 802A yesterday. I love it.
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I will ask my chosen dealer how they feel about mods. I have a business relationship with them, so I do get more leeway than most. The problem with dealerships is that they turn over management so frequently that what one tells you this year may not be true next year. Maybe I can buy the tune through them and get them to put something about warranty being maintained in writing.
You can also purchase a warranty w 5-Star. They do NOT write a generic tune. N-Guage will record your stock factory program, you than pull the SD card and email it back to 5-star. 24 hours later your tunes will arrive in your email. Drag and click onto your Sd card. Takes 6 min to download into you ECM and game on. I would recommend doing after the first oil change. I have been running mine since 3k miles. I run the 93 octane PERFORMANCE TUNE daily unless I'm towing. Love it
$1000 for their warranty isn’t terrible since their tuner is only $699. Factory polestar tuning that maintained warranty on my Volvo C30 cost $1499. I’m wondering if I really need the N gauge vs just the plug in module.
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