Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

Kenny Marhoffer

Private
Minuteman
Oct 25, 2010
30
0
44
Kentucky
Ok, I have the rock chucker supreme reloading kit, added the RCBS trimmer, 2500 Tubo Lyman Tumbler, Mounting Bracket for the power throw and the RCBS case prep center. Should this be set up in individual stations from start to finish, say from left to right along table length or is there something that I should know about the layout of a reloading station.

I also have another question..
Do I need to get a comparator insert, headspace set with comparator body, oal tool and a modified case to finish off what supplies I will need. I bought the RCBS Dial caliper, I thought thats what it was for. I haven't read my book on reloading yet, and yes I plan to lean it in and out but deer season is still in where I live.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

Also, what do your layouts look like? Central located position of user to all tools, almost like needing to cut a half circle out of the middle of table to work in a radial fashion, or just move the chair to each tool. I don't know anyone that reloads and never seen a reloading station, if I sound like a "Duh wah" I'm sorry.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

i put my turret press on the right side end of work bench (and cut out notch to set it back further + more stable), left of that case trimmer, space for digital thrower, - just move the chair when i deprime&size or place bullet.

i try and keep middle and left of bench open for cleaning rifles & whatnot
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

Yeh buy that hornady stuff you mentioned as its very good gear to have. Give you the peace of mind knowing your setting stuff up correctly.

Regarding the press, most people set them up on one side of the table. I guess it depends on which hand you use to pull down the press handle.

The rockchucker press allows you to change handle position to either left or right.

My suggestiong is if your right handed, mount the press on the right hand side of the bench and install your shell holder so the entry is on the left.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

You didn't specify how much room or table space you had available. When I first started handloading I kept everything in a covered box on the back porch. Only the primers and powder were kept inside. When I needed to load a few rounds, my loving wife let me put down a towel for padding and "C" clamp the press to her kitchen table. Thank God it was a heavy table.

Since then I have a decent bench set up with way too much hardware for the table space. The best way to figure out what is right for you is to use "C" clamps and move things around until you find what works for you. Then if you want to, make it a permanent attachment.

Good luck.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

5reloadingpressesscrewedtoaboardandtheboardclampedtoabench.jpg


With lag bolts or sheet rock screws, fasten the presses to a board. Then clamp the board to the bench.

If things are not right for you, or new presses come in, drill more holes in the board.

If you want to reload in another room, the board can be clamped to another bench.

That way, holes are not drilled willy nilly into a bench or table.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

Thanks for the information from all for starters. I will check out the thread on the reloading room pics. Also, the table/ tables that I have are 3.5' by 8' long solid oak drafting tables with maple tops. I have a bunch of them at the office and since AutoCad took over on the drafting years ago I have a surplus of them. Figured they would come in handy in this venture, the one I already have in service for cleaning and smithing is great and easily modified for use.

Also, I see that there is bullet pullers that look like hammers out on the market (from word of mouth) don't last long. I went to Sportsmans Warehouse to look around yesterday and noticed that there are bullet pullers and chucks for the pullers. Can you get away from the hammer tool and use the press to do this procedure? Would be nice to just buy a cheaper press and the said puller setup (if for a press) and just keep the station open for that use. Instead of buying hammer pullers over and over since what I have heard is that they don't last long.
I don't know how many times you actually do this procedure during reloading so I don't know if its an issue.

What is a 3 way trimmer attachment for the RCBS case trimmer pro do? Do I need that to add to the assortment of must have tools or is it something that can come later. I am just trying to reload .223 SB and .308 FL ammo for now.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

I have the hammer puller.
I have collet pullers that work in the press. The collet pullers I have are Forster, RCBS, and Hornady.

If lots of ammo is going to get pulled down, the Hornady cam over is the best.

Just a round or two with no crimp? Use the hammer.

The Forster and RCBS gather dust.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

Ok, you got me going here now with the collet puller. I see that if you get the collet puller and then the collets for each caliber you can pull bullets (jacketed) with no damage. Instead of having the hammer thing see what you think about this.

Purchase a Lee Reloader Press Single Stage 36.99
Purchase RCBS Sollet Puller (7/8 x 14 Thread like press) 21.99
Purchase the Lee Prime Unit for press 9.79

Now with this I can pull with a setup that is always ready to go (slip in collet), that is more durable and able to tackle either large or small projects. Keeping the grow into factor out of buying the hammer and then later having to purchase all of this. Also having the ability to load primers off of it too for 10 bucks more. Most people like the hand loaders for primers but I haven't experienced it yet, but then I will have another way to try and see if I like.

Is this another "Duh Wah" or do you guys do something like this for pulling.
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

There is not always no damage with collets.
Often adds for surplus pull down bullets will be the phrase "no collet marks".

With some foam in the end of the hammer head, but bullet may not get dented with the impact hammer, but will all bullet pullers, the case mouth may leave tracks on the bullet.
That is part of why we chamfer the case mouth.

Bart Bobbitt quotes:
2003
"If you use a 3- or 4-jaw collet style bullet puller and don't squeeze
the bullet too tight, they'll be decent for plinking and the like for
short ranges. Probably won't deliver quite the accuracy as factory
ammo or reloads with new bullets, but you'll probably be pleased with
the results.

An interia bullet 'ejector' with a hard rubber stop for the bullet to
bounce off of is best for crimped-in bullets used in military ammo if
you want them in the best shape possible. But you really gotta smack
the darned thing against a hard surface."

1992
"Chamfering rifle case mouths is a common practice after trimming the
case to length. A traditional process is to use a chamfering tool that
has an included angle of about 60 degrees. It's turned in the case
mouth to debur the ridge left by the case trimmer. Chamfering is done
either before or after sizing the case.

I've noted that in looking at the case mouth after the bullet is seated,
that most of the time, some of the bullet jacket has been scraped off and
is piled up at the case mouth. This is easily seen with a magnifying
glass. When I first noted this many years ago, I thought that removing
jacket material, especially nonuniformly all the way around, would
unbalance the bullet. Surely, there must be a better way.

Pulling bullets from traditionally chamfered cases told the rest of the
story. Each bullet was scratched lengthwise from the base to where the
case mouth was on the loaded round. Some bullets were more scratched than
others. As fast as those bullets spin, I knew their unbalance would
not let them shoot too well. Even using a bore brush to clean up the
edge of chamfered cases did not improve them any significant amount.

My reasoning was to have the angle of the chamfer much less. That would
not present so much of a `cutting edge' and might reduce the amount of
jacket shaving. Then I remembered a tool totally unrelated to handloading
operations; an easy-out. I took a No. 5 easy-out and looked at its edges
that normally are used to fit in a drilled-out screw and remove it. Those
edges were pretty rough, so I chucked it in an electric drill and polished
the edges with emery paper; they came out much more uniform and without
any rough edges.

After trimming a batch of cases, I took 20 and chamfered them the normal
way with a Wilson tool. 20 more were chamfered with the No. 5 easy-out.
Under a magnifying glass, the easy-outed cases had much cleaner chamfers
than the ones the Wilson tool was used on. I then loaded the cases and
bullets seated in the easy-outed cases had no jacket shaving; the others
had the normal amount.

I also ran a test with ten different cases chamfered with the easy-out.
Seating bullets in them and pulling the bullets, then checking them for
scratches. There were none to speak of; what there was was small and
hopefully insignificant.

Next step was to test the ammo. I put a scope on one of my match rifles
in .308, the cartridge used, and shot each batch for group at 600 yards.
Group sizes were 3 inches and 5 inches; the larger one was with the cases
chamfered with the Wilson tool. That was a good indication that the
bullets with shaved jackets did not shoot too good.

This happened about 13 years ago. The only problem is that I've been
mentally kicking myself on the back side for not paying close enough
attention to my reloads for competition for the 13 years before that. "
 
Re: Got Everything I need, Where do I put it??

It sounds like you have a decent grasp of handloading, but I cannot emphasize this enough--read your manual first before ever reloadinga round--PERIOD!

Now having said that--to some of your questions.

First off, unless there is some reason you intend to be pulling a lot of bullets, don't worry about that so much that you have a dedicated press for it. I load a fair amount of rounds--2-3k per year, and probably pull about 6 bullets a year. I have the Hornady collet style puller and several collets for it, I just put it into the press when needed--no biggie.

As to the layout of your gear, think about the process & the way you want to do it. For me, cases get cleaned, then sized, then trimmed, then chamfered (in and outside) and then primed, charged and bullets seated. My gear is set up to follow this workflow.

Cleaning is on a small seperate table, and cases then go into loading blocks and go to the left side of my bench, and get deprimed/sized, trimmed, chamfered at the left side of my bench. I then prime the cases, which happens in the middle of my bench. From there, the cases stay in the same positon in a loading block and get charged--slightly to the right of center I suppose, and lastly I seat bullets into the cases....
which end of the bench I do this on depends on which seater die I'm gonna use, I've got a press at the far left of my bench which may do the seating, and another at the far right which may, depending on a few odd things in my mind
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My Bench is setup so that I can sit basically in the center, reach all the way to the left or right and get er done!

I would post a pic, but my bench is so messy, I don't think I could stand the flaming I would get admonishing me to 'clean that bitch up!'

At any rate, I do like the idea of bolting or clamping your gear down temporarily until you like where you've got it set up, and then make it more permanent. It is cool to figure out your own work flow, and how you want to do things, as an example, I have a buddy who sizes and trims BEFORE cleaning, which to me is retarded, I don't want dirty cases in my die's etc, but he likes to clean after sizing, and then uniform primer pockets....if I uniform it is in part of the process with trimming, chamfering and then uniforming, but our benches are set up different due to the order in which we do things.

If you are only loading for two rifles, buying the comparators and all is nice, but really not needed. I would invest in some simple things that make the process smoother/nicer to me, for example a nice loading block like the Sinclair heavy duty blocks, and Satern Powder funnels, which are caliber specific. If you are loading for accuracy primarily, you may want to evolve into various types of resizing your brass, such as neck sizing only etc. I would tell any new reloader to begin with full length resizing every round, and then as you firmly grasp what is going on, I would progress to Partial Full Length Resizing. Setting up your die to do this is covered in most manuals, and basically this process minimizes the amount of sizing your brass undergoes, and provides a fit specific to an individual rifle.

IME this methodology (PFLR) leads to the best accuracy, and some new tools, like the Forster Bushing Bump die, are really slick in helping minimize as much as possible the amount of workng your brass, and are a version of PFLR.

Good luck moving forward, it sounds like you are off to a good start with your gear.

Good luck on your setup, it is fun to figure out to suit your specific needs/wants!