Hey guys decided it was in my best interest to start reloading. Mostly gona be .308 so lets keep the money figures there. I have always seen brass and so forth for sale at gun shows but never paid any mind to the pricing. The only pricing I can see now is the gouged prices for the most part. What is "normal pricing" on once fired brass (seems Winchester and Lapua is the better, Winchester cheaper), powder (4350 & Varget), SMK 168's and 175's and large rifle primers? I know this is a pretty broad question but Im still learning and reading everything I can find time to. Just a general rule of thumb as I know alot of you guys probably have good ole boy hook ups on alot of this stuff I dont have any. Thanks
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Gouged Prices vs. Normal Pricing??
- Thread starter Glen1978
- Start date
Welcome to your latest addiction!
Powder will be $25-30/lb. $25 seems to be a good average. 8lb containers will be a better deal but until you know for sure what you want stick to 1-lb cans.
$20-$25/100 on the SMKs is about right
Primers could be anywhere from $30-$50 per 1000 and be a good deal.
I haven't bought much 308 brass but I'd say winchester $20-25/100, Lapua would be more
Powder will be $25-30/lb. $25 seems to be a good average. 8lb containers will be a better deal but until you know for sure what you want stick to 1-lb cans.
$20-$25/100 on the SMKs is about right
Primers could be anywhere from $30-$50 per 1000 and be a good deal.
I haven't bought much 308 brass but I'd say winchester $20-25/100, Lapua would be more
Buy in bulk.
I got an 8lb'r of Varget a few weeks ago for 170.
I buy 500 175 SMK's at a time for around 150.
Primers are looking right now to be around 35 for standard LR and if you can find match primers like 45-50 per thousand. Buy in 5000 piece cases for a much better price.
Im seeing once fired 308 brass(mixed HS) for a bit under 20c a piece.
I got an 8lb'r of Varget a few weeks ago for 170.
I buy 500 175 SMK's at a time for around 150.
Primers are looking right now to be around 35 for standard LR and if you can find match primers like 45-50 per thousand. Buy in 5000 piece cases for a much better price.
Im seeing once fired 308 brass(mixed HS) for a bit under 20c a piece.
Ok guys from what Ive read seems that either H4350 or Varget is a pretty safe bet and either 168 or 175 SMKs are the ticket depending on distances. Im sub 500 yds now but I have the means to go 1000 if I can. Just need to see what powder/bullet combo my gun likes the best. Would just have to start with what others have used on grains and work from there. Does this seem to be a good start? Remington 700 SPS Tactical 1:12 twist 20" bbl. so you know.
There is no reason to not simply use 175's for everything IMO. I know guys will say "sub 600 just use 168's and beyond that go to 175's".... My thought is "why should I work up two loads when one will get everything done"? In my experience 175's arent any more expensive than 168's(maybe a penny a piece) and I would rather not jack around with 2 different loads and trying to stock 2 different bullets, etc... when one bullet will do everything that I personally need from 100-1000 yards.
Kinda my thinking too sir but doing alot of reading it seems the 168's will group a little better inside a few hundred yards. I dont think its gona be enough for me to worry about dealing with working up two different loads though.
Win brass has more capacity than Lapua
Win brass needs flash hole deburred, Lapua doesn't
Both need primer pocket uniformed
So while on the surface Lapua doesn't need as much prep is it really worth double what Win brass cost, for me the answer is no
Win brass needs flash hole deburred, Lapua doesn't
Both need primer pocket uniformed
So while on the surface Lapua doesn't need as much prep is it really worth double what Win brass cost, for me the answer is no
Well I held off last night buying 3 more boxes of FGGM 168gr so I could put that money towards reloading supplies. Ive got plenty to tie me over till I start reloading and making brass in the process.
Like stated above, stick with the 175's if you plan on ever going past 600yds. Every time you shoot you are collecting data on your rifle/bullet combo. It makes sense to start with a round that can do it all, then when you get to shoot further out you will be ready with no extra load development.
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Ive never read that anywhere, doesnt mean it might not be true, but I have never read it. There are plenty of guys slinging sub half groups at 100 yards with 175g SMK's. When you have to start measuring in the hundreds(.01) and thousands(.001) to differentiate between groups you have more time on your hands than me.
I read it somewhere other day.....would have to dig to find it. Just been reading a TON of info on the subject because I always shot the 168's to start then when ammo shortages came about it seemed the 175's were easier to find. After doing alot of research Ive decided to go with the 175's for the reasons you guys stated. I appreciate all the info guys! Been a great help.
H4350 is too slow for .308 Winchester.
I4895, H4895, Varget, H414/W760 (same thing), Ramshot TAC, Reloader 12 or 15, I4064, I 4320 are powders more suitable for .308.
I've never seen new .308 SMKs for $20/100, closer to $30/100 (I buy the 500 count boxes) although Powder Valley had some seconds recently for close to $20/100.
I guess I haven't been at this as long as some others, since I'm sure they were that price a few years back.
I've never bought once fired .308 anything, I made all my own from new ammunition. The only .308 cases I've bought new were Lapua at $.80 each or so.
I can't see paying more than $.30/ea for any non-premium (Lapua) once fired .308 brass.
Joe
I4895, H4895, Varget, H414/W760 (same thing), Ramshot TAC, Reloader 12 or 15, I4064, I 4320 are powders more suitable for .308.
I've never seen new .308 SMKs for $20/100, closer to $30/100 (I buy the 500 count boxes) although Powder Valley had some seconds recently for close to $20/100.
I guess I haven't been at this as long as some others, since I'm sure they were that price a few years back.
I've never bought once fired .308 anything, I made all my own from new ammunition. The only .308 cases I've bought new were Lapua at $.80 each or so.
I can't see paying more than $.30/ea for any non-premium (Lapua) once fired .308 brass.
Joe
You may have a little trouble stabilizing a 175 SMK at longer ranges with that 1:12 twist barrel; depends on the style/quality of the rifling.
Well before I got that rifle I looked really hard at a 5R and also an AAC-SD but found this SPS Tactical with 60 rds down the tube and a B&C Medallist stock for a song. Couldnt pass it up.
I have never read that anywhere, but again, it may be true, I havent read everything. I would bet though that there have been on the order of billions of 175g SMK's slung down range through 12 twist guns over the years and if it was an issue with stability at range, I think the discussion would be more prevalent than it is.
Are you kidding? The 5r rifling at 11.25 twist was specifically designed for the 175 SMK; plenty to read about concerning that. 12 twist vs 11.25 hmmmm slower twist MAY have stability issues.... just saying.
Glen1978,
There is absolutely NO difference in accuracy potential between the 168s and 175s, beyond the normal lot-to-lot variations you see between different lots of the same (one 168 lot vs. another lot of 168s) bullets. No difference whatsoever. For ease of loading or just simplicity's sake, loading the 175 for all is a better choice, just because of the range advantage the hold over the 168s. Roughly the same loads work in both, and both are ridiculously easy to get to shoot decently. I don't know if you're looking at any 1,000 yard shooting, but the 168s won't handle that, while the 175s can. If you're shooting at 600 yards and less, use whichever's available to you, and it'll make very little difference either way.
As far as twists go, the 1x12" is perfectly adequate for the 175s, and is the standard twist used in production QC testing of these bullets in the factory. Even under the worst case scenarios, the 1x12" will deliver more than enough stability. Also worth mentioning that stability increases as bullets go downrange, as rotational velocity remains fairly constant despite the loss of velocity at distance. The time when bullets become potentially unstable is when they begin to go through the transonic region, and this isn't related as much to twist rate as it is several other exterior factors in the bullet's design.
There is absolutely NO difference in accuracy potential between the 168s and 175s, beyond the normal lot-to-lot variations you see between different lots of the same (one 168 lot vs. another lot of 168s) bullets. No difference whatsoever. For ease of loading or just simplicity's sake, loading the 175 for all is a better choice, just because of the range advantage the hold over the 168s. Roughly the same loads work in both, and both are ridiculously easy to get to shoot decently. I don't know if you're looking at any 1,000 yard shooting, but the 168s won't handle that, while the 175s can. If you're shooting at 600 yards and less, use whichever's available to you, and it'll make very little difference either way.
As far as twists go, the 1x12" is perfectly adequate for the 175s, and is the standard twist used in production QC testing of these bullets in the factory. Even under the worst case scenarios, the 1x12" will deliver more than enough stability. Also worth mentioning that stability increases as bullets go downrange, as rotational velocity remains fairly constant despite the loss of velocity at distance. The time when bullets become potentially unstable is when they begin to go through the transonic region, and this isn't related as much to twist rate as it is several other exterior factors in the bullet's design.
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Thanks Kevin.....just alot of naysayers and being "young" in this realm of shooting Im reading it all. Sometimes you dont know what to take to heart and what not. I appreciate yalls time to answer my questions and point me in the right direction. I only have a few boxes of 168's so Ill probably just sell that to feed my reloading fund. Can pretty much find everything but primers and powder at this juncture.
