HELP!!! Cannon Safe WON'T UNLOCK!!!

[HOGTOOTH5R]

If the lock is good and hosed with new battery, you could try rapping on the door with a sand filled mallet or maybe your fist with a sharp blow. Reason being some lock mechanisms may be sticking and a hard strike may free it up to open. If you have a cheap safe with thin skin steel, be sure not to do it too hard to dent the thing.

If the smith comes out, make sure they can work on electronic locks and have correct gear so they don't butcher your safe. Ideally, they'll have a spare keypad they will try first as that often is the next easiest thing to do after a battery swap.

Most gun safes are easy to drill open with correct tools and should not take more than 5-30 minutes tops to open. Have them replace the lock with a mechanical for better reliability.

It's one of the more reputable smith in my area and only 15min down the road from my house. I priced around this was actually the higher priced but based on their reputation I decided to spend a little more and buy some confidence.

Shouldn't the ball bearing plate make drilling a safe pretty useless? Or is that a gimmick?

I don't know but we'll see how "Easy" it is to open these things. I'm sure it'll just blow away my sense of "Security" after he gets in under 10mins...

I had this happen on a Sentry rifle safe. Sentry paid for the local locksmith to come out and check on it, and then paid the locksmith to replace the whole electronic dial mechanism. The mechanism just went out. Check if Cannon will do the same.

Nope. They pretty much said better luck next time!

I've worked in a lot of places, almost all of them required the use of a combination lock to get in them. Even today that holds true. In addition to that, are the (literally) hundreds of safes we use for storage of items. Talk about trying to remember combos (there's a reason there's a magnetic picture of a phone pad on these things; you remember code words that translate into numbers for them versus combination numbers).

In all of the 20+ years now of working in these environments, I have only seen one mechanical/non-electronic tumbler combo (Sergeants & Greenleaf) fail. Fortunately, it was on an alternate entry door, so was easily replaced. The electronic locks however, I have seen fail time and time again. Once, it was on a single entrance door to an area that was previously a SAC command post headquarters (think cave, nuclear hardened, massive steel vault door, no way around it). We waited 3 days until they could get a crew in (with the right clearances) to pull the vault door (but hey, we got three days of leave free, since we couldn't get to our work).

I've seen probably eight of the electronic locks just give up the ghost. No doubt, they are easier to open (hey if you miss the number, just keep going around until you hit it again), but just not worth the risk to me for my own personal safe. S&G tumbler lock for me...

Sounds about right after all the search I've done I definitely won't make that mistake again!

 

[rjacobs]

When I bought my AMSEC I made the shop change out the electronic to mechanical. They tried to sell me on "its an upgrade" "its bullet proof" "its this, its that", but I just didnt want to test their "theory's". I think that safe had a key slot under the electronic lock, but I just still didnt want to take any chances. I had already had issues with my GunVault keypad not responding(that unit has keys) and having to get a new unit from Gun Vault, and thats a super simple mechanism.

 

[XTR]

...just not worth the risk to me for my own personal safe. S&G tumbler lock for me...

+1

 

[RedBull6]

Bought the same safe from COSTCO, but was never a fan of the digital lock. Called Cannon with my invoice number, spoke with customer service, and they shipped mine with a mechanical lock instead--no upcharge. Looks like I made the right decision.

 

[Javelin]

Called the "Tech Support" today again and was pretty given the Cold Shoulder. Told me if the Master Code won't work then I'm pretty much Shit out of Luck. I asked them about the so called "Life Time Warranty" and he told me to read the dam fine prints. Supposedly the Warranty only covers Fire/Water Damage or some crap in that regard. The Lock only has 1 year parts warranty which is over. Told me I should call a Locksmith to get it openned and replace the Lock while I'm at all, of course this will be on my own dime as they will not cover any of this.

I've been screwed before but this one was just uncalled for. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CANNON SAFE PRODUCT PERIOD. For All Those whoes even Considering this Brand just Walk away and spend a little more and get a Peace of Mind! And No More Digital Locks Either!

I'm quoted $500 for Labor and Replacement Lock. The smith will be here tomorrow to "Fix" it. I will let you guys now after it's fixed. Thanks for all the Help and Responses Guys! I really appreciate all of the Love and Support from this Forum!

Sincerely

Peter Z

Damn that is terrible. How old is the safe again? If you paid with your Amex card from costco they give young year beyond the mfr warranty

 

[XOR]

I used to work on safes and electronic locks have a much higher failure rate over a good quality mechanical. But today even the mechanicals on lower end safes can be a bit cheap. A higher end S&G lock or LaGard would be my pick.

You could also retrofit a Lagard key lock onto the safe if you want fast access, but still mechanical like reliability.

http://www.kaba-mas.com/la-gard-brand/products/mechanical/418404/keylock.html

 

[Javelin]

Agree with XOR. I think a cheap safe is a cheap safe no matter if it's mechanical or electrical lock. A quality safe is going to cost $4-10k depending on size. Even a little TL-15 isn't cheap.

 

[phwoodworker]

All safe companies put 125.00 pieces of shit electronic locks on their safes and it pisses me off to no extent.

Hello Al,
I am in a pickle. I have a Cannon wide body safe with the NL electronic lock. The door jammed as I shut it (Mea culpa, I know). Additionally I turned too hard on the handle in an attempt to open it. Replaced battery. The safe beeps when I enter the code but the solenoid does not click.
I note the following facts
Replacing the safe is in round numbers just short of 2k.
Getting someone to come out here in the boondocks is about 750 or more.
I thought it was a pretty good safe but in reality it is just a 10 gauge plus or minus locking metal file cabinet.
So I would think that I have the following options
1. Have the locksmith out - but what can he do beyond drilling it?
2. Cut into it myself. I have given it much thought and I have ruled out angle grinding as I dont want to throw sparks over my gun collection inside, There fore I would use a jigsaw/sabre saw with a metal cutting blade and a spacer to control the depth of cut to open it up from top by cutting it all around the very edge of the top, and once the top is off, removing the drywall type insulation and lifting out the items one at a time
what are your thoughts?
Thank you,
PHW

 

[MK20]

Called the "Tech Support" today again and was pretty given the Cold Shoulder. Told me if the Master Code won't work then I'm pretty much Shit out of Luck. I asked them about the so called "Life Time Warranty" and he told me to read the dam fine prints. Supposedly the Warranty only covers Fire/Water Damage or some crap in that regard. The Lock only has 1 year parts warranty which is over. Told me I should call a Locksmith to get it openned and replace the Lock while I'm at all, of course this will be on my own dime as they will not cover any of this.

I've been screwed before but this one was just uncalled for. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CANNON SAFE PRODUCT PERIOD. For All Those whoes even Considering this Brand just Walk away and spend a little more and get a Peace of Mind! And No More Digital Locks Either!

I'm quoted $500 for Labor and Replacement Lock. The smith will be here tomorrow to "Fix" it. I will let you guys now after it's fixed. Thanks for all the Help and Responses Guys! I really appreciate all of the Love and Support from this Forum!

Sincerely

Peter Z

Honestly the answer is to stop buying cheap safes. Look for something with a TL rating. You want to look used, probably off of Craigslist. I got a 3000 lb TL-30 for 600 bucks from a guy. No problems there unless you forget the combo.

 

[phwoodworker]

Honestly the answer is to stop buying cheap safes. Look for something with a TL rating. You want to look used, probably off of Craigslist. I got a 3000 lb TL-30 for 600 bucks from a guy. No problems there unless you forget the combo.

I agree. However how do I solve the immediate problem of being unable to open the one I have?

 

[lariat]

Pay money or go at it yourself. Those are your options.

 

[deltawiskey]

Can you push in on the door while you enter the combo and twist the handle?
My safe had something pushing just a little bit on the inside of the door and it wouldn't open until I did this...
DW

 

[ashworth]

I’ve been in shoes decades ago, headed out for prairie dogs requiring 5 rifles, electronic lock failure. I had spent days dealing with solutions and what it would cost for locksmith. Time running out, took two pry bars, jammed in door and worked an opening for a larger crow bar. I was amazed at how easy it is to pry the door open, it is nothing but sheet metal. It was some hard lessons learned. Residential security containers are not safes, electronic locks fail and containers are easy to open with common tools. Hopefully you can get the safe to open at a reasonable cost and repair before deer season without resorting to plan Z. China containers are great till they fail, which they will do over time.
Keep a eye on Craigslist for a used TL15 / TL30 safe, usually under $3,000 for a real safe with real UL fire protection.
Here is a great read before your next purchase. https://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articles/what-to-look-for-in-a-gun-safe/

 

[hafejd30]

I know this thread is older but I’m really surprised how cannon handled the issue.

Buddy of mine acquired a large canon safe last year. I don’t remember if it was vandalized or the lock malfunctioned but a locksmith cut a hole in the door to free the locking mechanism.

Buddy picked it up for $100 with the hole in the door. He contacted cannon to see if they would sell him a door.

They basically responded with “you own a cannon, we’ll replace the whole safe”. They sent a brand new safe as a replacement.

 

[Highbrass]

I had a Winchester safe that came.from Tractor Supply. Actually was a really nice safe. I had a similar issue to with my safe as the OP. The electronic keypad just quit opening the safe. After playing around with it I determined that the keypad had digits that were not working. After a week of trying many times a day I got it open. I decided to replace the keypad with a S&G combo dial. All the holes were pre drilled and it took a out an hour to install. I bought the combo dial thru Amazon for like $120. I upgraded to a larger safe with an emergency key.and sold the Winchester to a buddy who still has it.

 

[phwoodworker]

Can you push in on the door while you enter the combo and twist the handle?
My safe had something pushing just a little bit on the inside of the door and it wouldn't open until I did this...
DW

Tried that. Will try that with a rig ginned up to push the door in.....

 

[Lucreau]

My neighbor had this happen. He ended up having to cut out the whole mechanism with an angle grinder

 

[ashworth]

My neighbor had this happen. He ended up having to cut out the whole mechanism with an angle grinder

Grinders are hard on gear inside, up to and including very large noises possible, pry door to open / destroy container door.

 

[acudaowner]

can opener the sides or back easy , safes preventing you from getting your stuff working as intended . You could always pay someone to open it for you lol .

 

[Herald]

This happened to me around 3 years ago, and I went through the same stages of panic, Cannon customer service, and locksmith quotes. Cannon sent me the wrong keypad, said "Sorry that's all you get." I bought/installed a new keypad, typed in the old code, to my surprise it opened right up. Keypad (no lock) ran ~$75 at the time and was an easy install. If nothing else, it's a low cost shot in the dark.

 

[ACard]

I've worked in a lot of places, almost all of them required the use of a combination lock to get in them. Even today that holds true. In addition to that, are the (literally) hundreds of safes we use for storage of items. Talk about trying to remember combos (there's a reason there's a magnetic picture of a phone pad on these things; you remember code words that translate into numbers for them versus combination numbers).

In all of the 20+ years now of working in these environments, I have only seen one mechanical/non-electronic tumbler combo (Sergeants & Greenleaf) fail. Fortunately, it was on an alternate entry door, so was easily replaced. The electronic locks however, I have seen fail time and time again. Once, it was on a single entrance door to an area that was previously a SAC command post headquarters (think cave, nuclear hardened, massive steel vault door, no way around it). We waited 3 days until they could get a crew in (with the right clearances) to pull the vault door (but hey, we got three days of leave free, since we couldn't get to our work).

I've seen probably eight of the electronic locks just give up the ghost. No doubt, they are easier to open (hey if you miss the number, just keep going around until you hit it again), but just not worth the risk to me for my own personal safe. S&G tumbler lock for me...

I have had the same experiences as well and S&G is the only way I will go anymore

 

[JohnCarter17]

And FWIW, my brother had an old style manual combination dial lock fail, and had no options except to get a locksmith. A digital electronic keypad can be user replaced in a minute or two.

FWIW, you know what we don't see on firearms forums? People talking about how their mechanical safe lock failed.
You know what we do see on firearms forms? People talking about how their digital safe lock failed.

 

[kmckinnon]

I had a Winchester safe that came.from Tractor Supply. Actually was a really nice safe. I had a similar issue to with my safe as the OP. The electronic keypad just quit opening the safe. After playing around with it I determined that the keypad had digits that were not working. After a week of trying many times a day I got it open. I decided to replace the keypad with a S&G combo dial. All the holes were pre drilled and it took a out an hour to install. I bought the combo dial thru Amazon for like $120. I upgraded to a larger safe with an emergency key.and sold the Winchester to a buddy who still has it.

@Highbrass I too have a Win from TS. It stopped working once but a battery change fixed it. You mention a S&G combo dial replacement for the electronic lock. Do you remember what model or have any more details. There's quite a few listed at Amazon.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

FWIW, you know what we don't see on firearms forums? People talking about how their mechanical safe lock failed.
You know what we do see on firearms forms? People talking about how their digital safe lock failed.

Yeah but to be fair, we see it on a bunch of cheap safes. If I'm going to be locking up untold amounts of irreplaceable and valuable items, I'm going to spend some time and some money on what I get, and it's going to have really good fire resistance too. Lots of good lessons in this thread though.

 

[ACard]

Honestly the answer is to stop buying cheap safes. Look for something with a TL rating. You want to look used, probably off of Craigslist. I got a 3000 lb TL-30 for 600 bucks from a guy. No problems there unless you forget the combo.

Good advice, I bought a 7k pound TRTL-30 for $125 this way.

ETA- Now having it moved and placed was a bit more but under 1k so still an amazing buy

 

[nn8734]

Tried that. Will try that with a rig ginned up to push the door in.....

If all else fails, call a lock smith. If he can’t get it open, just cut it open with a cut off wheel or oxy-acetylene torch from the side. Most of those el cheapo safes have really thin bodies with no reinforcement of any kind.

A large pry bar should be able to get the door opened also. Seen this done on youtube with shit safes.

Liberty, Fort Knox, Graffunder all make excellent saf

 

[BullGear]

that makes no sense. so you are saying you could take any keypad and open any safe as long as they are the same model keypads?
explain how that can be possible.

My keypad connections are on the INSIDE of the door so if you pull off the keypad, it's just wires. You must have access to the safe to lift the inside door cover off to get to the mechanism for the keypad and lock.

 

[MK20]

Bro, it's a Cannon. Don't spend much on trying to get it open. A couple of harbor freight pry bars and a hand sledge will open it rapidly.

 

[Highbrass]

@Highbrass I too have a Win from TS. It stopped working once but a battery change fixed it. You mention a S&G combo dial replacement for the electronic lock. Do you remember what model or have any more details. There's quite a few listed at Amazon.

This is the one that Amazon says I bought previously and it seems to be quite a bit cheaper !
There is a You tube video that explains how to install. My advice is Pay very close attention to the orientation of each piece and how it is positioned. It makes ALL the difference!
S&G also has great customer support. ..Make sure to tape up or disable the re-lock mechanism so it won't trip while working on the safe. it's designed to trip if the safe is roughed up....
I really suggest getting a locksmith to do the conversion for you if they are affordable

Amazon.com

 

[ken226]

I've read so many posts like this about electronic locks shitting the bed, and even the occasional mechanical dial lock, that I took the electronic lock off my safe and tossed it in the garbage.


It required some fabrication work to install, but I put one of these on it.

I took it apart first, to make sure that the two opening mechanisms are truly independent, and they were. Either mechanism can completely fail and the other is capable of opening it.

The chance of both the electronic lock and the mechanical lock failing at the exact same time is pretty small.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

S&G dial lock on my 32-year-old safe. Still feels as butter-smooth to dial as it did the day it was delivered, three houses ago.

I don't foresee upgrading that safe... but if I do I'll go with a Liberty safe from Talton's Safe Co. in Raleigh, NC (45 minutes from my home). Ray has been in business here over 50 years... I don't know why he hasn't retired, but I'm glad he's still around. He can elaborate on every kind of safe in history and actually has a museum in his store... He is also a skilled locksmith... says he can get into any big-box store safe in five minutes. Also told me the S&G dial locks fail but very very rarely.

A cheap safe is arguably better than no safe, but if the lock fails then have you saved any money once you get it open?

Ray says this cannonball safe is the most secure design in history for business safes. This is the smaller of the two he has, made in 1926, about 4 feet tall and something over 2.5 tons if I recall, and has storage capacity of a smallish desk drawer. You have to open the thing and turn that ball - feel the mass - to appreciate the precision in it. Listening to him talk about these old safes is like a non-shooting person listen to us go deep in the weeds about reloading.

 

[Boatninja]

Not a lock problem but just the opposite Customer Service experience.
About a week after my combo-lock American Eagle, (Cannon), was under 6' of seawater for about 18 hours I called the number on a sticker on the back and asked if they had any recommendations on cleaning the mechanism. They asked what happened and I said Hurricane, the guy said can you prove it? I said how would a picture of it with three inches of mud in it be? He said can you send me that and a newspaper article or something regarding the storm/flood.
Emailed pic of mud filled safe and picture of local newspaper, later that day received email saying in a couple of weeks a replacement will be dropped off to you at your curbside.
Much larger safe than the one I had was sent as they stated.
I kept the old safe, cut the combo linkage loose from the lock mechanism, wheel and bolts still work, installed shelves and use it to store gun parts and loading tools etc.

 

[MK20]

I've read so many posts like this about electronic locks shitting the bed, and even the occasional mechanical dial lock, that I took the electronic lock off my safe and tossed it in the garbage.


It required some fabrication work to install, but I put one of these on it.

I took it apart first, to make sure that the two opening mechanisms are truly independent, and they were. Either mechanism can completely fail and the other is capable of opening it.

The chance of both the electronic lock and the mechanical lock failing at the exact same time is pretty small.

Who makes that?

 

[ken226]

Who makes that?

LP

LP Doomsday EMP proof Rotobolt High Security Safe Lock • Bank Safe & Lock Co

Type 1 Electronics Patented Simple Software (1 Manager / 1 User) 6 Digit Changeable Code Simple Code Change Function #5 Self-Diagnostics Low Battery Warning Manipulation Protection MECHANICAL LOCK Group 2M Mechanical Manipulation Resistant Standard Foot Print No Spline Key Required

www.bankssafeco.com

My line of reasoning for using this type of lock to prevent getting locked out and having to cut into the safe is a simple probabilities function.

Just pulling the numbers out of my ass but, If electronic locks fail on average every 5 years, and mechanical locks fail on average every 50 years, then the probability of the both failing on the same day is once every 33,306,250 days,
or once every 91,250 years.

 

[kmckinnon]

This is the one that Amazon says I bought previously and it seems to be quite a bit cheaper !
There is a You tube video that explains how to install. My advice is Pay very close attention to the orientation of each piece and how it is positioned. It makes ALL the difference!
S&G also has great customer support. ..Make sure to tape up or disable the re-lock mechanism so it won't trip while working on the safe. it's designed to trip if the safe is roughed up....
I really suggest getting a locksmith to do the conversion for you if they are affordable

Amazon.com

Thank you very much!

 

[Makinchips208]

I have seen a cordless sawzall make quick work of the top of a gun safe. Not sure if they make them better now days?

 

[Newlongrange]

I have seen a cordless sawzall make quick work of the top of a gun safe. Not sure if they make them better now days?

Most safes are not actually safes, they are residential security cabinets( RSC’s).

This website does a good job of explaining it.

What to Look For in a Gun Safe Buying Guide - Gun Safe Reviews Guy

What to look for in a gun safe, what to ignore. Recommendations for how much to spend, what size, gun safe locks, steel thickness, bolts, relockers, etc.

gunsafereviewsguy.com

At the very least you should get one rated TL-15