Holy smokes, DPMS G2 rifles

[aku]

All finished in its final form, another range trip this weekend to rezero, and get the BUIS sighted in.

I'll have to try some basic trigger enhancements, but It's hard to not go with a Geiselle after using them in the past.

Awesome piece of gear right there!!, i just change my mind between the SASS of the Hunter/BULL

 

[CTown137]

So I have recently started upgrading my G2 Recon. I swapped out the buffer tube for a milspec as I had a STR stock sitting around, added a Tubbs recoil spring, and a badger tac latch and discovered a major issue. When I rack the bolt carrier all the way back, the carrier gets stuck in the buffer tube. I looked at the rifle and found that the upward torque applied from the hammer produces a slight angle and caused the top of the carrier to pin against the top of the buffer tube. Has anyone else had this issue? Can anyone suggest a solution? I thought about sanding the inside of the buffer tube to gain a little clearance. I don't have that many rounds through it, less than 50. Maybe it will break in?

I measured it and the bolt face is 0.2665" behind the bolt catch when it is fully locked back/stuck.

Thanks

 

[Birddog6424]

175 SMKs are exactly what I'll be using in my reloads. I've signed up for a course through the Sig Sauer Academy near me called Reach for a 1000 where they instruct on how to shoot long range. We get to shoot at distances of 100, 300, 500, 800 and 1000 yards. I was planning on running the custom 300 WM bolt action I'm currently having built and my 308 bolt action but maybe I'll bring the SASS instead of the 308. I can't wait!

I'm curious, what powder do you use and how much? I'm new to reloading so I'd love to know what works well for others in this rifle to give me a starting point. I've got some Varget powder that I was planning to use.

I'm using 43.5grs. of Ramshot Tac for the 175's. But there are some good recipes for Varget.

In this market, you use what you can find. Tac and H335 are identical. You can pretty much use the same recipe for them. You can stuff n a little more Reloder15 and squeek out a tad more velocity. Same for Ramshot Big Game, but it's hard to find. Lots of good powders out there.

That school should be good fun. There is a huge trend towards smaller and faster in the PRS circles. It's all about the 6.5 and .260. But the .308 is still great fun.

A buddy and I were shooting a 6" steel plate at 500 yards last night with my SASS. Elevation on the dope was money, but the FV crosswind gusting from 8 to 13mph kept us on our toes at making the wind calls. The wind was blowing the bullet anywhere from 10 to 24". Making that 6" plate seem awfully small. We gave it hell though.

 

[Jungle George]

I'm using 43.5grs. of Ramshot Tac for the 175's. But there are some good recipes for Varget.

In this market, you use what you can find. Tac and H335 are identical. You can pretty much use the same recipe for them. You can stuff n a little more Reloder15 and squeek out a tad more velocity. Same for Ramshot Big Game, but it's hard to find. Lots of good powders out there.

That school should be good fun. There is a huge trend towards smaller and faster in the PRS circles. It's all about the 6.5 and .260. But the .308 is still great fun.

A buddy and I were shooting a 6" steel plate at 500 yards last night with my SASS. Elevation on the dope was money, but the FV crosswind gusting from 8 to 13mph kept us on our toes at making the wind calls. The wind was blowing the bullet anywhere from 10 to 24". Making that 6" plate seem awfully small. We gave it hell though.

Yep, that's the go now days, run what you can get. I've been able to get some IMR4064 that should work pretty well. I'm still in the gun build so I haven't tried it yet.


Cheers,

George

 

[wareagle700]

Yep, that's the go now days, run what you can get. I've been able to get some IMR4064 that should work pretty well. I'm still in the gun build so I haven't tried it yet.


Cheers,

George

42.3gr of 4064 runs great in my .308 AR with a 20" Lilja. Haven't chrono'd it yet but I imagine its around 2500.

 

[Jungle George]

42.3gr of 4064 runs great in my .308 AR with a 20" Lilja. Haven't chrono'd it yet but I imagine its around 2500.

Great, I'll put that down. What bullet are you using with that load? Bullets are a little easier to find, but not much!

Cheers,

George

 

[wareagle700]

Using 175 SMK's and 178 AMAX loaded to 2.810" COAL.

 

[Cranedaddy]

I'm using 44.7gr of 4064 with the 175 smk. Works great in my SASS. 10.9 mil (confirmed) drop at 1k yards with this combo.

 

[jeremyp]

I'm using 43.5grs. of Ramshot Tac for the 175's. But there are some good recipes for Varget.

In this market, you use what you can find. Tac and H335 are identical. You can pretty much use the same recipe for them. You can stuff n a little more Reloder15 and squeek out a tad more velocity. Same for Ramshot Big Game, but it's hard to find. Lots of good powders out there.

That school should be good fun. There is a huge trend towards smaller and faster in the PRS circles. It's all about the 6.5 and .260. But the .308 is still great fun.

A buddy and I were shooting a 6" steel plate at 500 yards last night with my SASS. Elevation on the dope was money, but the FV crosswind gusting from 8 to 13mph kept us on our toes at making the wind calls. The wind was blowing the bullet anywhere from 10 to 24". Making that 6" plate seem awfully small. We gave it hell though.

Yeah I'm pretty excited about the course. I didn't get a chance to shoot the GII SASS yet as I spent my range time this weekend breaking in the barrel on my new custom 300 win mag bolt action rifle. I bought some cheap PPU and Federal Fuzion 165 grn ammo to do the dirty work and for some reason, it LOVED the Fuzion...go figure. To be fair, the first box I ran was the PPU and as expected, the second 20 rounds got tighter but I didn't expect sub MOA 5 shot groupings out of the Fuzion. Of the four 5 shot groupings with the Fuzion, three were sub MOA and the fourth was just above, maybe 1.25 MOA. I think that's awesome from target grade stuff. Maybe I just got a good, consistent box! LMAO
You are right about the move towards 6.5 and 260 calibers. I'm certainly seeing that here too. When it's time to rebarrel the 300 WM and GII SASS I'll probably go that route too, but that's a long way in the future. For now I'm going to enjoy shootin' the hell out of them.

Anyway, I'm working on my first batch of 308 re-loads and I'm finding Varget difficult to use with the thrower. Every round needs a LOT of followup with the trickler. I might go get something to replace the stick powder after this batch. I think I'm pretty lucky that I have a BassPro Shop nearby as well as a few local gun stores that stock a decent amount of reloading supplies so I can get pretty much any of the popular stuff whenever I want. Let's hope it stays that way.

Good info on the different recipes you guys are using on your GII's. Keep em coming! I'll be sure to post up my results when I finish up my batch and get them run through the SASS. I'm probably going to run some inexpensive target ammo for the first several mags to break in the barrel with and then give the reloads a shot.

 

[Birddog6424]

Accurate 2520, H335, and Ramshot Tac are tiny little grains of powder. They flow like water, meter very consistently.

 

[shadowwolffe]

How, G2 has shorter charging handlel

I plan to do this. Plus you get the benefit of ambi control.

"How, G2 has shorter charging handle"

 

[bzg4cf]

I could not resist any longer, so here is my new LR G2, with 24" Bull barrel, and 1:10 twist. This averaged 2675 fps with 175 SMK, federal 210 primer, and 43.5 gr IMR 4064. For comparison, the same rounds on the same day measured with same Magnetto Speed chrono within half an hour of each other, were almost 100 fps faster from a Savage model 10 bolt action rifle with 26" barrel and 1:10 twist, as expected. I will add Varget speeds and factory 168 gr Federal Gold Medal Match to the post when I get a chance to check my notes, as they were tested at the same time. The rifle feels really nice overall, but the trigger felt very gritty and had a very noticeable hang or catch before breaking, so it was replaced with a Geissele SD-E straight blade. Huge improvement in feel, but this ended up randomly firing two round bursts. I plan to swap in a Timney from another rifle and retest and I'll test that Geissele in the other rifle, but I am not sure when that will be.

 

[jeremyp]

Accurate 2520, H335, and Ramshot Tac are tiny little grains of powder. They flow like water, meter very consistently.

Thanks Birddog6424. I'll check into these on the next trip to the LGS.

bzg4cf, Nice lookin' rig. I almost went that way myself before ending up with the G2 SASS.

 

[Benito]

For the ejection port cover on the G2, my understanding is that it will not open on the rear ward pass of the bolt carrier, but will on he forward pass.
Is this correct?

If so, would this mean that firing the G2 with the port cover closed would result in the fired case not ejecting properly, and thus impeding the feeding of a fresh round?

That just seems weird.

 

[Birddog6424]

For the ejection port cover on the G2, my understanding is that it will not open on the rear ward pass of the bolt carrier, but will on he forward pass.
Is this correct?

If so, would this mean that firing the G2 with the port cover closed would result in the fired case not ejecting properly, and thus impeding the feeding of a fresh round?

That just seems weird.

That's not correct.

It opens the moment the bolt begins traveling rearward.

 

[bzg4cf]

They probably do not all work exactly the same, but whether this is by design or coincidence I have no idea. There are two "indentations" machined into the upper where the ejection port cover locks closed. My LR G2 Bull, right now in front of me, will often crack open only to the second indentation when the charging handle is pulled rearward. If I slowly lower the charging handle to full closed it will sometimes stay there and sometimes pop all the way. If I let the charging handle go when there is still spring tension, it will almost always pop all the way open when bolt slams forward, even if only the last inch of travel. Additionally, if I pull the charging handle back quickly, the cover will usually pop open all the way because it pops right past the second notch in the upper. It does appear that the second notch is supposed to be for ease of closing, just like any typical AR platform. Looking closely, I would say it is getting hung up between the indentations instead if in the second one. After a few more cycles and brake-in, this will likely start to open all way every time the charging handle is moved back.

I checked my notes on velocity. Box stock Federal 168 Gold Medal Match ammo averaged 2642 fps, while reloaded 175 SMK with 43 gr Varget averaged 2643 fps. These both fired at the same time on the day as the previously noted 175 SMK with 43.5 gr IMR 4064.

Also worth noting was the rifle, so far, has a tendency to jam when it gets warm and it only takes about 4 or 5 rounds to get warm. Sometimes it fails to fully eject the spent case causing the next live round to and spent case to get jammed together. A few times it had a sort of half stove-pipe jam. This was happening with factory steel magazines and the composite P-Mags. I plan to allow even longer cooling between rounds and see if this still happens. None of my rounds were fired with the cover closed. I left it open the entire time, so it had nothing at all to do with my failures.

It does shoot really nice so far, so I'll try to work out the bugs. It will hold a group under 1 moa better than I can, so next outing I'll trying to be more stable see what it can do.

 

[Benito]

OK, that is reassuring, as far as the port cover opening on the rearward pass of the bolt carrier.
I had read some other users reporting otherwise.
This would suck, since if one closed the port cover on a loaded chamber, the only way to avoid a malfunction would be to manually cycle the action, thus ejecting a perfectly good round.

As far as the gun "jamming" when warm/how, WTF?
That doesn't wound good. What gives? Is this an ammo issue maybe?

I want to like the G2, and hope these bugs get sorted out.

 

[Birddog6424]

They probably do not all work exactly the same, but whether this is by design or coincidence I have no idea. There are two "indentations" machined into the upper where the ejection port cover locks closed. My LR G2 Bull, right now in front of me, will often crack open only to the second indentation when the charging handle is pulled rearward. If I slowly lower the charging handle to full closed it will sometimes stay there and sometimes pop all the way. If I let the charging handle go when there is still spring tension, it will almost always pop all the way open when bolt slams forward, even if only the last inch of travel. Additionally, if I pull the charging handle back quickly, the cover will usually pop open all the way because it pops right past the second notch in the upper. It does appear that the second notch is supposed to be for ease of closing, just like any typical AR platform. Looking closely, I would say it is getting hung up between the indentations instead if in the second one. After a few more cycles and brake-in, this will likely start to open all way every time the charging handle is moved back.

I checked my notes on velocity. Box stock Federal 168 Gold Medal Match ammo averaged 2642 fps, while reloaded 175 SMK with 43 gr Varget averaged 2643 fps. These both fired at the same time on the day as the previously noted 175 SMK with 43.5 gr IMR 4064.

Also worth noting was the rifle, so far, has a tendency to jam when it gets warm and it only takes about 4 or 5 rounds to get warm. Sometimes it fails to fully eject the spent case causing the next live round to and spent case to get jammed together. A few times it had a sort of half stove-pipe jam. This was happening with factory steel magazines and the composite P-Mags. I plan to allow even longer cooling between rounds and see if this still happens. None of my rounds were fired with the cover closed. I left it open the entire time, so it had nothing at all to do with my failures.

It does shoot really nice so far, so I'll try to work out the bugs. It will hold a group under 1 moa better than I can, so next outing I'll trying to be more stable see what it can do.

Have you fired it hot one round at a time to see if it locks back on every round? We had a gun here in the shop doing the same thing. Turned out to be over-gassed. If it's locking back consistently on an empty mag then over-gassed is a likely culprit.

If it is not locking back on an empty mag then there is an under-gassed issue or a component binding up as it gets hot.

And of course, not to be overlooked, is the ejectors and extractors themselves. Both of those designs are new from DPMS in the GEN II's.

I am assuming of course that the bolt, buffer, and spring are all heavily lubed.

 

[crankbait]

So I have recently started upgrading my G2 Recon. I swapped out the buffer tube for a milspec as I had a STR stock sitting around, added a Tubbs recoil spring, and a badger tac latch and discovered a major issue. When I rack the bolt carrier all the way back, the carrier gets stuck in the buffer tube. I looked at the rifle and found that the upward torque applied from the hammer produces a slight angle and caused the top of the carrier to pin against the top of the buffer tube. Has anyone else had this issue? Can anyone suggest a solution? I thought about sanding the inside of the buffer tube to gain a little clearance. I don't have that many rounds through it, less than 50. Maybe it will break in?

I measured it and the bolt face is 0.2665" behind the bolt catch when it is fully locked back/stuck.

Thanks

No - I used a commercial tube which is larger diameter and is OEM. No issues.

 

[crankbait]

They probably do not all work exactly the same, but whether this is by design or coincidence I have no idea. There are two "indentations" machined into the upper where the ejection port cover locks closed. My LR G2 Bull, right now in front of me, will often crack open only to the second indentation when the charging handle is pulled rearward. If I slowly lower the charging handle to full closed it will sometimes stay there and sometimes pop all the way. If I let the charging handle go when there is still spring tension, it will almost always pop all the way open when bolt slams forward, even if only the last inch of travel. Additionally, if I pull the charging handle back quickly, the cover will usually pop open all the way because it pops right past the second notch in the upper. It does appear that the second notch is supposed to be for ease of closing, just like any typical AR platform. Looking closely, I would say it is getting hung up between the indentations instead if in the second one. After a few more cycles and brake-in, this will likely start to open all way every time the charging handle is moved back.

I checked my notes on velocity. Box stock Federal 168 Gold Medal Match ammo averaged 2642 fps, while reloaded 175 SMK with 43 gr Varget averaged 2643 fps. These both fired at the same time on the day as the previously noted 175 SMK with 43.5 gr IMR 4064.

Also worth noting was the rifle, so far, has a tendency to jam when it gets warm and it only takes about 4 or 5 rounds to get warm. Sometimes it fails to fully eject the spent case causing the next live round to and spent case to get jammed together. A few times it had a sort of half stove-pipe jam. This was happening with factory steel magazines and the composite P-Mags. I plan to allow even longer cooling between rounds and see if this still happens. None of my rounds were fired with the cover closed. I left it open the entire time, so it had nothing at all to do with my failures.

It does shoot really nice so far, so I'll try to work out the bugs. It will hold a group under 1 moa better than I can, so next outing I'll trying to be more stable see what it can do.

I covered this earlier. Do not use PMAGS. Use DPMS magazines. My brother also has issues with PMAGS in his SIG 716 - they told him to use DPMS mags. There is also a user on the Brownells website who has experienced issues with PMAGS in his Ruger 762. Ruger tech told him to use a DPMS mags.

I have never experienced any issues with the dust cover.

IMHO, your issues are entirely ammunition and magazine-related. Are you checking your reloads with a good case gauge ?

Make sure the BCG rails and the charging handle are well lubed. I use white lithium grease. A few drops of quality gun oil on the cam and bolt and you are definitely good to go.

The receiver interior is Teflon coated, and the BCG tolerances are tight. You need to break it in before drawing sweeping conclusions about there being a problem. I did a lot of periodic barrel cleaning and BCG cleaning during my first 2 firing range sessions.

 

[Guest]

Have zero issues with PMAGS in my 716. It came with a PMAG from SIG. My friends 716 also strictly PMAGs with zero issues.

 

[CTown137]

No - I used a commercial tube which is larger diameter and is OEM. No issues.

I understand that a commercial tube has a larger outside diameter; however the inside of both are the same. And DPMS says that any AR15 stock will work, so just wondering if anyone else has swapped to a milspec tube. I am going to swap back to a commercial tube just as a trouble shooting measure, but it doesn't make since that it would work in one but not the other.

During actual firing it runs great and the Tubb's spring I added has basically eliminated the primer cratering. Still a great rifle and the Samson Evo 15" rail I added makes a world of difference.

 

[bzg4cf]

I covered this earlier. Do not use PMAGS. Use DPMS magazines. My brother also has issues with PMAGS in his SIG 716 - they told him to use DPMS mags. There is also a user on the Brownells website who has experienced issues with PMAGS in his Ruger 762. Ruger tech told him to use a DPMS mags.

I have never experienced any issues with the dust cover.

IMHO, your issues are entirely ammunition and magazine-related. Are you checking your reloads with a good case gauge ?

Make sure the BCG rails and the charging handle are well lubed. I use white lithium grease. A few drops of quality gun oil on the cam and bolt and you are definitely good to go.

The receiver interior is Teflon coated, and the BCG tolerances are tight. You need to break it in before drawing sweeping conclusions about there being a problem. I did a lot of periodic barrel cleaning and BCG cleaning during my first 2 firing range sessions.

Ammo could definitely have been an issue, that's always possible. The factory DPMS mag was in my rifle first during break in, and was in when I started noticing the ejection concerns. I switched to a P-Mag as test, but it made no difference. I was also single loading after it starting shooting two round bursts with the trigger change. I plan to swap triggers, clean and lube again, and start over with testing. I am sure it will come around with the right combination of loads, lube, and mags. Probably a couple weeks before I get to the range again. I am definitely not bashing DPMS. It shoots nice and just needs a little love to get where it needs to be.

 

[HOGTOOTH5R]

My DPMS Gen I Recon Hated the Factory Steel Mag but Loved the Pmags. The Gen II Recon takes Both without Fail. I would say though the Previous M2 Pmags runs better than the Latest Gen M3 Mags. I don't know if there's a dim change but a lot of the AR308s seems not liking the New Gen Pmag. Even some POF P308 Hates them too and would take them or drop freely for that matter.

I would stock up on Gen M2 Pmag since they have a more proven track record and should be Cheaper than the New Gen anyways.

 

[jeremyp]

I finally got a chance to break out the G2 SASS this past weekend to start the break-in process. First off, the SASS ran flawlessly without any issues whatsoever. The DPMS mag and two of the Magpul Gen 3's I have also ran without a glitch with the bolt staying locked back on the last round. I only got about 40 rounds through it as I spent time cleaning the barrel in between groups of 5 shots. The only issue I had was getting hit in the face, forearm and shoulder by hot brass since I'm a lefty. I got two burn marks on my forearm and one on my cheek from it. I'll try lubing the ejectors prior to the next range trip.

The first 30 rounds I didn't focus on accuracy much...just lined up the cross hairs and let it fly. The good news is that it was still pretty accurate considering with the six 5 shot groups maxing out at 2 MOA on one while the others were around 1.5. The last two groups I ran my first batch of reloads running 175 SMKs and 40 gr of Varget in once fired PPU brass with a 2.800 COAL. The two 5 shot groups were both just around 1 MOA, one just under and one juuuust over. I was pretty stoked with that since it was just rounds 31-40. I expect this to tighten up some as the barrel breaks in some more. If it does then I certainly lucked out and got a shooter. For comparison, I got similar results during break-in of my semi-custom 300 WM bolt action rifle. It continued to get a lot better as it neared 60 rounds and now consistently shoots sub MOA 5 shot groups.

I'm going to try and get to the range this afternoon and dump some more mags through it. I'll still be running the same batch of reloads.

 

[Birddog6424]

I finally got a chance to break out the G2 SASS this past weekend to start the break-in process. First off, the SASS ran flawlessly without any issues whatsoever. The DPMS mag and two of the Magpul Gen 3's I have also ran without a glitch with the bolt staying locked back on the last round. I only got about 40 rounds through it as I spent time cleaning the barrel in between groups of 5 shots. The only issue I had was getting hit in the face, forearm and shoulder by hot brass since I'm a lefty. I got two burn marks on my forearm and one on my cheek from it. I'll try lubing the ejectors prior to the next range trip.

The first 30 rounds I didn't focus on accuracy much...just lined up the cross hairs and let it fly. The good news is that it was still pretty accurate considering with the six 5 shot groups maxing out at 2 MOA on one while the others were around 1.5. The last two groups I ran my first batch of reloads running 175 SMKs and 40 gr of Varget in once fired PPU brass with a 2.800 COAL. The two 5 shot groups were both just around 1 MOA, one just under and one juuuust over. I was pretty stoked with that since it was just rounds 31-40. I expect this to tighten up some as the barrel breaks in some more. If it does then I certainly lucked out and got a shooter. For comparison, I got similar results during break-in of my semi-custom 300 WM bolt action rifle. It continued to get a lot better as it neared 60 rounds and now consistently shoots sub MOA 5 shot groups.

I'm going to try and get to the range this afternoon and dump some more mags through it. I'll still be running the same batch of reloads.

Great stuff!!

I have about 110 rounds left out of the original 1000 that I bought. I have yet to experience a malfunction of any type from my GII SASS. I pretty much run some rounds through it every week while I am out practicing for one event or another.

I'm getting ready to induce some malfunctions however as I am about to swap out the gas block for a Syrac or JP adjustable. My rifle is a hair over-gassed, and I want to take advantage of the low mass BCG that is in every GII .308. The complete BCG and bolt actually weigh .2ozs less than the JP low mass bolt. Pretty interesting. Should be able to turn that down and soften it up nicely.

After that, it's time to load up some rounds and find our optimal charge weight, then settle down and finally see how she groups.

 

[jeremyp]

I was looking at adjustable gas blocks last night on various sites and I'm also leaning towards the Syrac but can't decide on the clamp-on style or the set screw style. Any thoughts on which style is better?

 

[HOGTOOTH5R]

I was looking at adjustable gas blocks last night on various sites and I'm also leaning towards the Syrac but can't decide on the clamp-on style or the set screw style. Any thoughts on which style is better?

Set Screw style is a lot cleaner IMHO.

 

[CTown137]

So I broke down and sanded a little bit of the coating off the inside of my milspec buffer tube. Hit it with a little buffer pad on a dremmel and the stuck bolt carrier is gone. Coating must have just been a little thick on the tube I had.

Rifle is running great and now just waiting on glass so I can really enjoy my first AR10 platform.

 

[jeremyp]

Set Screw style is a lot cleaner IMHO.

Does it stay in place as well as a clamp on style? That's my only concern, because I agree that it's cleaner looking.

CTown137 - Glad to hear you got it running well!

 

[HOGTOOTH5R]

Does it stay in place as well as a clamp on style? That's my only concern, because I agree that it's cleaner looking.

CTown137 - Glad to hear you got it running well!

My Larue PredatOBR 7.62 and BCM AR15s all use Set Screws. I also got to play with a KAC ECC which also uses Set Screw Setups. I believe they are just as secure as the clamp on designs but without the extra bulk and better looking.

 

[jeremyp]

That's great to hear...certainly sounds like the set screw setup is pretty secure. I'll probably pull the trigger on it today or tomorrow.

 

[Birddog6424]

I have the Syrac and the JP on various rifles, both are very good.

I have a little more confidence in the Syrac to maintain it's setting. The JP can become loose and back out. You have to keep an eye on it.

The fact that JP sends an extra adjustment screw speaks volumes.

 

[jeremyp]

Well I went ahead and ordered a Syrac clamp on style in black. However, I had to order a Black Rain Ordnance model since they have the OEM exclusive for the Syrac clamp on style in the black color. I just feel more comfortable with the clamp on and it's certainly easier to install. Now I'm thinking about getting the MI keymod handguard and doing both at the same time.

 

[CTown137]

For those looking at hand guards for your G2, you need to check out the Samson Evo rail. I ordered the 12.37" for my Recon. Samson messed up and sent me the 15" and I'm glad they did. I contacted them and offered to pay the difference and they stated that they would not charge me for their mistake. I had to buy the G2 short barrel nut from DPMS. But it was well worth it. Such a great handguard!

 

[jeremyp]

For those looking at hand guards for your G2, you need to check out the Samson Evo rail. I ordered the 12.37" for my Recon. Samson messed up and sent me the 15" and I'm glad they did. I contacted them and offered to pay the difference and they stated that they would not charge me for their mistake. I had to buy the G2 short barrel nut from DPMS. But it was well worth it. Such a great handguard!

Yeah it's pretty much between the Samson and the MI rails. They are both pretty good options. Can you post a pic of it on your Recon?

 

[CTown137]

Yeah it's pretty much between the Samson and the MI rails. They are both pretty good options. Can you post a pic of it on your Recon?

I don't have a photo bucket account to post photos but PM me ur info and I can text or email them to you. Or if anyone is willing to post them for me let me know and I can send a few to you.

Thanks

 

[jeremyp]

CTown137, you've got a PM.

I was able to get out to the range this afternoon with the G2 SASS and shot another 100 rounds. I put a drop of Slip2000 on the ejectors but I had still had brass hitting me in the face and shoulder. I really hope the adjustable gas block will help fix that issue. Other than that it ran great. Every shot cycled properly and the last shot locked back on an empty mag every time. I've now tested all five PMags I have and the DPMS mag and all work fine. I just want to stop getting hit in the face by hot brass! LOL

 

[jeremyp]

Here are CTown137's pics. Great lookin rig! The Samson hand guard looks awesome.

 

[elfster1234]

damn!!! now that's the perfect set up IMO... get a 4-16 scope on that bad boy!

Here are CTown137's pics. Great lookin rig! The Samson hand guard looks awesome.

View attachment 42704

View attachment 42705

View attachment 42706

 

[pe5b]

CTown137, you've got a PM.

I was able to get out to the range this afternoon with the G2 SASS and shot another 100 rounds. I put a drop of Slip2000 on the ejectors but I had still had brass hitting me in the face and shoulder. I really hope the adjustable gas block will help fix that issue. Other than that it ran great. Every shot cycled properly and the last shot locked back on an empty mag every time. I've now tested all five PMags I have and the DPMS mag and all work fine. I just want to stop getting hit in the face by hot brass! LOL

I have the same issue. FGMM = brass to the face. Prvi match = brass to the face. Hornady AMAX match = NO brass to the face.

 

[Birddog6424]

I agree, the 15" rail is definitely the way to go. But I went with the Nordic Components. I'm not a fan of rail on top of the hand guard as I occasionally strip it down and run Heavy Metal division 3 gun. I hate the rail under my thumb.

Some of those narrow little MI hand guards are too close to the barrel. Get a few rounds down the pipe and things start to warm up. Not much of an issue if you're on a bipod, but if you're running and gunning.....





Don't laugh about the scope. I bought that for whistle piggin' for my AR15. I haven't decided on glass for this rifle yet. I can get pro forms on Vortex, Burris, and now Steiner. I was all set to get a Vortex Viper FFP 6x24 with the EBR-2C reticle when I heard the Burris XTR II's were coming out. So I ordered 2 XTR II 1.5x8's for my three gun rifles and was thinking the 5x25 for this rifle. THEN I heard about the Steiner T5Xi coming out in September.......

 

[CTown137]

damn!!! now that's the perfect set up IMO... get a 4-16 scope on that bad boy!

Thanks! I really like it. I am planning on getting a Mark 4 MR/T 2.5-8 for it. Wanting the rifle for the 50-600 yard range. I was originally going to get the PST 2.5-10x32, but I am a Leuy fan. Also going with a Badger unitmount. 1.3" height. Just waiting on the cash to get the glass.

 

[Skeld1]

Why do you guys like the 15" rails? I was debating 15" or 12" MI Keymod for an AP4 I'm going to modify.

 

[CTown137]

I went with the 15" so that I can mount the bipod and not interfer with my normal hand hold on the HG.

 

[Ando]

Shot my new DPMS Lite Hunter for the second time today. Only 'bout 80 rounds total, but 100% reliable with both the supplied 4 round magazine and the original design MagPul LR20s.

Truly very light weight, about 7.8 lbs. Barrel is .75 all the way with just a bit of a step for the gas block.

Accuracy has been very good for a light AR10. With the Bushnell 3-12 on top it shoots 5 shots right at 1" with my 155 Nosler HPBTs with 45.5 gr IMR4895 in lake city brass loaded on the Dillon.

The carbon fiber handguard is very nice and much improved from earlier DPMS offerings.

The trigger, even though a two stage, suffered from the usual roughness. Mixed and matched some parts from the spares box till I found something acceptable.

Recoil is a pleasant push, but the front does jump around quite a bit. I will likely have it cut to 18.5" and threaded for a muzzle device of some sort.

The accuracy of this rifle is good enough that it may deserve a Giesselle.

 

[elfster1234]

that's awesome info! thanks!

Shot my new DPMS Lite Hunter for the second time today. Only 'bout 80 rounds total, but 100% reliable with both the supplied 4 round magazine and the original design MagPul LR20s.

Truly very light weight, about 7.8 lbs. Barrel is .75 all the way with just a bit of a step for the gas block.

Accuracy has been very good for a light AR10. With the Bushnell 3-12 on top it shoots 5 shots right at 1" with my 155 Nosler HPBTs with 45.5 gr IMR4895 in lake city brass loaded on the Dillon.

The carbon fiber handguard is very nice and much improved from earlier DPMS offerings.

The trigger, even though a two stage, suffered from the usual roughness. Mixed and matched some parts from the spares box till I found something acceptable.

Recoil is a pleasant push, but the front does jump around quite a bit. I will likely have it cut to 18.5" and threaded for a muzzle device of some sort.

The accuracy of this rifle is good enough that it may deserve a Giesselle.

 

[Skeld1]

Anyone else have the LR20 PMAG not want to fall free from these guns? Mag well is a little tight on mine. Maybe it will loosen up with use.

 

[CTown137]

Anyone else have the LR20 PMAG not want to fall free from these guns? Mag well is a little tight on mine. Maybe it will loosen up with use.

Both my PMags needed to be fed in and out about 50 times each before they started dropping free. I just sat on the couch one night and manually slapped them in and out until they freed up.

 

[s002wjh]

so whats accuracy of this dpms