If your budget is such that you can afford to buy Lapua, Peterson, etc. brass at the outset, there's certainly no harm in it. But there's nothing magical about it beyond better longevity and consistency. If you buy Lapua brass and use a cheap scale to put powder behind cheap bullets, some of that consistency goes away right off the bat. Similarly, if you don't have an annealer, that Lapua brass consistency will deteriorate earlier than it "should." I still have a few hundred Hornady cases from early on in my rifle-reloading journey, but they're kinda like the fire extinguisher in the closet... no plans to use it.
But if you invest in the good brass, to me it's prudent to invest in the brass preparation and powder charging tools to match.
Brass prep is the most time-consuming and, to me, toilet-swabbing-chore-like, part of the reloading process. If your budget supports it, go ahead and buy an annealer (AMP is by far the easiest/most consistent - and expensive - one), because after a handful of loadings the case neck stiffens, consistency goes down, and the neck will split earlier than "necessary." You'll need a case trimmer (there are several, each with strengths/weaknesses) because bottleneck cartridges "grow" in length with each firing, a good caliper (not a $29.99 big-box special; I like my Brown & Sharpe dial caliper while many here like Mitutoyo digital calipers), something like a Whidden case gauge to accurately obtain headspace data, a tumbler and media for cleaning.
If budget allows, invest at the outset in good scale (A&D FX-120i, search on the Hide for discount code). Less-expensive beam scales work ok but are slow - just be sure to get a set of check weights for best consistency.
I'm retired so I tolerate using a Dillon powder drop to throw each powder charge a tenth or two light and then trickle up to desired weight. If budget allows and time is important, an autotrickler is faster.
It's been interesting to me to see how a minuscule shift of level on my loading bench can affect readings on my FX-120i (which has a very sensitive bubble level built into it). Cheap digital scales... well, you'll read about how they drift. My FX-120i has not been recalibrated since I put my loading bench in its current location months ago. I know my little brass powder-pour "cup" weighs 145.08 grains. I can, and have, zeroed the scale with the cup on it and forgotten about it for several hours... come back and it's sitting rock-solid at zero, and I can drop in a kernel of H4350 and see it go to .02 grains.
The scale thing kinda exemplifies getting into the weeds with brass. It's not hard to load good ammo with a sub-$100 beam scale. But will a beam scale accurately discern the addition or removal of a single kernel of H4350 - or even IMR8208? Maybe, if you watch it settle long enough. You'll hear that having your powder load within +/- 1/10 grain for .223-.308-class cartridges is "good enough." I submit that, if that's as good as you care about with powder charge then you'll probably be happy with Hornady brass.
It's a real rabbit hole, right? I quit seeing reloading as a hobby about three decades ago. To me, loading shotgun and pistol ammo is a chore like vacuuming floors. But reloading precision rifle ammo is more like swabbing toilets in a sports bar after a ball game - mainly because of the aggravation of brass preparation (anneal it, clean it, lube it, resize it, clean the lube off it, trim it, track lot & number of loads - versus pistol ammo, where you can just clean it and load it, or shotshells, where you just keep reloading the things until they split). I do it because I already had much of the equipment from shotgun and pistol competition days and the return on time investment is worth it to me; the big expenditures were the annealer and scale. Good equipment lasts about forever - my shotshell presses date back to the 1980s and the Dillon press is '90s vintage.
Enjoy the ride.
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