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Horse Power, Track Shit, Torque, Cubic Inches, Liters, Run What Ya Brung, Auto or Cycle
- Thread starter DarnYankeeUSMC
- Start date
Just started playing with this. Somewhere around 7-800 hp and 1300ft lb. Studded Duramax with s468, 65 over inj, 10mm cp3, 4x4 with built trans and front diff.
I pulled out onto highway today and ripped it just a little.....at next stop light here pulls up a new charcoal grey gt350 mustang....well he seen me rip on it I guess and revved at me a couple times at the light. WELLLLLLL.....4x4 and a little footbrake action, let's just say he fucked around and found out. Put a bunch of car lengths on him real fast. Still pulls my equipment pretty good

I pulled out onto highway today and ripped it just a little.....at next stop light here pulls up a new charcoal grey gt350 mustang....well he seen me rip on it I guess and revved at me a couple times at the light. WELLLLLLL.....4x4 and a little footbrake action, let's just say he fucked around and found out. Put a bunch of car lengths on him real fast. Still pulls my equipment pretty good

Cage is done...
Gotta cut out a plate they put in for the battery kill switch at the passenger shoulder... cant put my harness's in with it there and im not going to use it anyway. Going to use a solid state relay instead.
Got my valve cover powder coated... black metallic rainbow glitter... its bad ass HAHAHAHAHA...
Gotta cut out a plate they put in for the battery kill switch at the passenger shoulder... cant put my harness's in with it there and im not going to use it anyway. Going to use a solid state relay instead.
Got my valve cover powder coated... black metallic rainbow glitter... its bad ass HAHAHAHAHA...
Jesel Valvetrain Founder Dan Jesel Has Passed Away
Jesel Valvetrain Founder Dan Jesel Has Passed Away - Engine Builder Magazine
In the evening hours of Tuesday, January 10, Jesel announced the sad news that Dan Jesel, the founder of Jesel Valvetrain Innovation, passed away. Dan was a beloved father, a brilliant innovator, a generous employer and respected member of the racing community. Related Articles - Lucas Oil...
www.enginebuildermag.com
I raced some pretty serious stuff back in the day. Outlaw Pro Mod, 14-71 Kabelco Superman,Lenco. Back around 2004, I had a Ben Worthy built roadster that at that time probably was fastest roadster in the country 6.14 218mph was a Lenco-drive automatic. Not sure where pics are..
Made some progress on the front end. Suspension/brakes are basically done. Need to install swaybar still, but ill wait until after I drop the motor back in. Got half the motor put back together. Waiting on some alignment dowels for the head to block... the fucking machine shop instead of removing them just jammed them up into the head...fucking wonderful. I didnt have the proper tool to pull them(hence why I asked the machine shop to remove them) so I had to destroy them getting them out... Oh well. I spent a bunch of time cleaning and painting the sub-frame as well as the control arms. Got a manual steering rack installed on Delrin bushings... no slop there!!!
Xida coilovers from SuperMiata
all Delrin bushings from a company called A1 Ground Control
Unit/Hub bearings from a company called Bro-Fab. He takes BMW E30 hubs and adapts them to work on the Miata. I have his rears also which are Toyota Yaris hubs...
And the brake kit is also from Bro-Fab, well really just the caliper brackets and the top hats. The rotors are 75 bucks a piece from Coleman, the calipers are Afco, but made by Stoptech, and are cheap, I paid 108 a piece for them.
Brake ducts I got from a guy in Germany. They actually direct air into the center of the rotor instead of at the inside of the rotor face...which only causes uneven cooling and fucks up your rotors something fierce... but everybody still runs them and thinks they are the gold standard for brake cooling on a Miata...except they are shit and not proper...
Got the pan and all that shit on. Ill get the head on next week and maybe get it wrestled back into the car.
Cut my hood a few weeks ago and installed the hood vents.
Xida coilovers from SuperMiata
all Delrin bushings from a company called A1 Ground Control
Unit/Hub bearings from a company called Bro-Fab. He takes BMW E30 hubs and adapts them to work on the Miata. I have his rears also which are Toyota Yaris hubs...
And the brake kit is also from Bro-Fab, well really just the caliper brackets and the top hats. The rotors are 75 bucks a piece from Coleman, the calipers are Afco, but made by Stoptech, and are cheap, I paid 108 a piece for them.
Brake ducts I got from a guy in Germany. They actually direct air into the center of the rotor instead of at the inside of the rotor face...which only causes uneven cooling and fucks up your rotors something fierce... but everybody still runs them and thinks they are the gold standard for brake cooling on a Miata...except they are shit and not proper...
Got the pan and all that shit on. Ill get the head on next week and maybe get it wrestled back into the car.
Cut my hood a few weeks ago and installed the hood vents.
Super gas vette back in 90’s, this started the need for speed..
Pro tracks have a standard for the tree, some tracks due to space not so much..The roadster because of seat position was easier than the Pro Mod. The pro mod you sit with the blower hat right in the middle of the tree at certain tracks. I used a prism on the front window just to get the flash of light, was all pro tree racing so any flash you leave. Sometimes was camera flash from media (oops). 
You guys ever have the opportunity, go watch some serious racing on Saturday nights, lots big time drivers got their starts at these tracks. If they are still open Ware Shoals, Dorchester, Wilksboro raceways put on quite a show.. I started in Florida Bradenton an Gainesville, but didn’t learn how to drive until we ventured to the Carolinas. It got real in a hurry..
A buddy of mine this weekend, brought his BMW 335D, it a 6 cylinder straight 6 diesel . He stripped all the unnecessary crap off the intake, exhaust and with new electronics . Also Twin Turbo, and with a massive Intercooler that had to remove some of the grill to fit . It is pretty freaky to sit in a small car and have it sound like a chipped-up Cummings truck . It is a real plain Jane 'sleeper' for street car, but put your foot in it, and it turns into a black coal belching torque monster.
.
Not as fast as yall rides, but it's got air conditioning and 40" tires lol
Nobody ever said what type of track this track shit had to be on. I did see the word torque in the title. So there’s this
Ive wanted one of those for a while. They're not easy to find especially in a manual
New luxury facility being built in Tampa. Asphalt track, rally track, drifting area, private garages. Not gonna be cheap!!
themotorenclave.com
Home - The Motor Enclave
Developing Luxury Automotive Communities Across North America View Enclave Locations Private Garages More Info Performance Tracks More Info Events More Info
themotorenclave.com
Why did you stay with the four bolt rotors?Made some progress on the front end. Suspension/brakes are basically done. Need to install swaybar still, but ill wait until after I drop the motor back in. Got half the motor put back together. Waiting on some alignment dowels for the head to block... the fucking machine shop instead of removing them just jammed them up into the head...fucking wonderful. I didnt have the proper tool to pull them(hence why I asked the machine shop to remove them) so I had to destroy them getting them out... Oh well. I spent a bunch of time cleaning and painting the sub-frame as well as the control arms. Got a manual steering rack installed on Delrin bushings... no slop there!!!
Xida coilovers from SuperMiata
all Delrin bushings from a company called A1 Ground Control
Unit/Hub bearings from a company called Bro-Fab. He takes BMW E30 hubs and adapts them to work on the Miata. I have his rears also which are Toyota Yaris hubs...
And the brake kit is also from Bro-Fab, well really just the caliper brackets and the top hats. The rotors are 75 bucks a piece from Coleman, the calipers are Afco, but made by Stoptech, and are cheap, I paid 108 a piece for them.
Brake ducts I got from a guy in Germany. They actually direct air into the center of the rotor instead of at the inside of the rotor face...which only causes uneven cooling and fucks up your rotors something fierce... but everybody still runs them and thinks they are the gold standard for brake cooling on a Miata...except they are shit and not proper...
Got the pan and all that shit on. Ill get the head on next week and maybe get it wrestled back into the car.
Cut my hood a few weeks ago and installed the hood vents.
First car was a 57 Chevy 2 door post. Had a 427/390 hp taken out of a
wrecked Vette. Next was a 69 Chevelle with a 396/375 hp . Car was jinxed , after I blew it up i sold it. Next owners drove it into a lake , after drying it out , I heard a woman wrecked it and didn’t survive.
My everyday driver now is a 98 Tacoma with a TRD supercharger, TRD headers and cat back exhaust. Auto trans valve body
was remapped by a company named Level 10. Otherwise it would eat up the transmission. Figure I’ll hit 370k miles this year.
Ruined and/or bruised many egos at the stop lights.
Might outrun me on the street , sand or mud …hard to beat 
wrecked Vette. Next was a 69 Chevelle with a 396/375 hp . Car was jinxed , after I blew it up i sold it. Next owners drove it into a lake , after drying it out , I heard a woman wrecked it and didn’t survive.
My everyday driver now is a 98 Tacoma with a TRD supercharger, TRD headers and cat back exhaust. Auto trans valve body
Ruined and/or bruised many egos at the stop lights.
Might outrun me on the street , sand or mud …hard to beat The E9x is pretty easy to do a manual swap in, I think even the diesels, so that’s an option. Just my opinion here but, diesels benefit greatly from an auto trans. And the auto in the 335D is one of the best ones. They don’t lose boost pressure when the throttle is lifted to shift. They are just fun to drive though, I absolutely get that
I’ll let you drive it around a bit. Maybe even over a house or two
New luxury facility being built in Tampa. Asphalt track, rally track, drifting area, private garages. Not gonna be cheap!!
Home - The Motor Enclave
Developing Luxury Automotive Communities Across North America View Enclave Locations Private Garages More Info Performance Tracks More Info Events More Info
Yep, they've been on that for a while.
It's right in the pocket of I-75, I-4 and US 301.
And, it's just south of the little municipal airport.
The only thing missing is water access.
Nobody makes 5 lug hubs for NA/NB miata... theres really no reason. It would be a HUGE cost item for really nothing. Typically you need more studs for added vehicle weight. Then you are trying to find wheels that fit, brakes that fit, etc... Ive never seen an NA/NB miata break wheel studs. The bearing itself is also completely adequate for what we do. They typically crack the hub around either the center bore or the lug studs. Its because the flange is to thin. So if you were to try to design a flange with 5 studs that fit in the same area you would end up with even less metal and more possible fatigue areas. So the fix is the wheel hubs I am running(Bro-Fab) OR there is a setup from MiataHubs. Both are "similar" in that the flange on the unit bearing is like 3-4x as thick as the factory Miata hub flange. The hubs I am running are BMW E30 hubs which are designed for a car thats like 4k lbs and we put them on a 2k lb car. The MiataHubs are machined billet hubs and are really nice, but also like 650 bucks A PIECE. The setup I am running was like 500 bucks total. The rear hubs the guy makes are from a Toyota Yaris. Again the hub flange is like 3x as thick as the factory piece while still maintaining the 4 bolt setup(on the proper spacing) and the same axle spline count and it uses an off the shelf SKF bearing you can get anywhere.
Yes, that too. I just want one that will go anywhere, literally anywhere, in the world to camp and not break a sweat doing it
Just received some goodies from Fuel Moto.
Going to be putting a Woods cam, Bassani exhaust and a Power Vision on the Wife’s CVO Slim.
Going to be putting a Woods cam, Bassani exhaust and a Power Vision on the Wife’s CVO Slim.
If its a similar trans to the gas motor after 400hp or so its sketchy. The jb4 has no lift shift that keeps boost up. My next project will be some kind of diesel for sure
Awesome, oil burners unite!
In all honesty, I’d just keep the auto box unless you’re going to make a legit & oddball race car. The ZF trans is pretty amazing. I think there are tuners that have cracked the tcu and can mess with the shift parameters
Getting closer to driving one of my projects. While waiting on parts I figured I'd start the rear bumper. It's .250 plate on sides and bottom of frame bolted to the factory 6 holes, .250 crossmember in between the frame plates and the 2.5 .250 wall hitch receiver tube is welded to that. Then the side tubes(they are kinda like sliders, well light duty sliders) are 1.75 .120 wall dom. There is a support tube to the frame plates behind the corner and it will have at least one tube supporting the end of the tube toward the wheel. Top of the bumper is plated with .188 plate. Still might trim it back a little, it will have a horrible departure angle anyways, but I like a bumper I can stand on or work off of. Wish my press would dimple the .188 plate but it won't.
Completely bolt on
You can see my other truck peeking in the background. It's slated to be the next thing after this truck is done. Although I will have to fix my road or trailer it to get it out of here. Living on dirt is fun, but not on a slammed 800+ hp truck.
Completely bolt on
You can see my other truck peeking in the background. It's slated to be the next thing after this truck is done. Although I will have to fix my road or trailer it to get it out of here. Living on dirt is fun, but not on a slammed 800+ hp truck.
Attachments
I see Magnuson is producing a new blower for the 3.4, it's a toss up if I will go with the old design like you have or the newer/more expensive one. My t100 has 5.29 gears on 35's and will likely need more power.First car was a 57 Chevy 2 door post. Had a 427/390 hp taken out of a
wrecked Vette. Next was a 69 Chevelle with a 396/375 hp . Car was jinxed , after I blew it up i sold it. Next owners drove it into a lake , after drying it out , I heard a woman wrecked it and didn’t survive.
My everyday driver now is a 98 Tacoma with a TRD supercharger, TRD headers and cat back exhaust. Auto trans valve body View attachment 8065487was remapped by a company named Level 10. Otherwise it would eat up the transmission. Figure I’ll hit 370k miles this year.
Ruined and/or bruised many egos at the stop lights.
A little more pedestrian (pardon the pun) than many but I like them:
Nearly stock 01 Mustang Cobra. Had to replace the factory exhaust from tits to toes. Staying CARB legal pushed that bill to $5k. Completely replaced the factory Mach 460 stereo system from deck to speakers as the original was spitting some audio artifacts; sounds that are not part of the song being produced sometimes while the thing was turned off, and the radio was generally like a house cat, it did what it wanted when it wanted and told me to fuck off a lot. It's also got aftermarket racing seats in front because the factory seat backs were physically broken by whatever apparent lardass owned it before me. Since this pic the windows also got 5% tint in the rear and 35% in the front. The thousands of bucks spent elsewhere on it were just maintenance replacement of worn out stuff like water pumps. It started out as a Nevada car and I've come to find out that someone installed a very high end front mount oil cooler on it and it used to have tinted windows at some point in the past. Rocking unscuffed factory original polished 17x8's w/ Michelin Pilot Sport AS4's (this is an amazing tire for an all season model). May put a coil over conversion on it. Maybe not. This car doesn't like to break traction very easily; a lot of that has to do with tire choice and gearing. So, it's actually a lot harder to drive near the limits than the one below. A lot more comfortable than the other one especially on long trips. Makes an 8hr road trip something you don't dread, actually I look forward to them. On the other hand, it does try to kill me at the drop of a hat (any hat) because it still has plenty of snap over-steer and I disabled the traction control and ABS because I hate that shit. 290hp to the tires on the last tune & I can feel the engine is softer than it should be. Possible new short block coming.
Nothing near stock 2002 Mustang GT. 04 Cobra IRS with a complete Full Tilt Boogie Racing setup, maximum motorsports tubular front everything + coil over all around with street-unfriendly spring rates, cobra brake kit, 98 Teksid block w/ forged everything at 11:1, ported 04 Cobra heads w/ all the trimmings, FR500 cams, TKO 600RR trans, custom 10.5" clutch conversion w/ full face kevlar + sprung hub clutch disc, custom mid-heavy pedal pressure plate, aluminum flywheel, matte FR500 9's & 10's w/ R-compound tires, electric water pump, custom remote mount quick change thermostat, 3.73's, race oriented 6-pt cage/5pt harness/large diameter steering wheel. For being almost the same car, it's super duper different. This one is very controllable and predictable while being super easy to break traction in the rear to initiate a drift. No AC/heat/radio. Windows don't roll down or up reliably. Brakes use racing compound that doesn't really work until they have some heat in them. It's a fun car to drive and despite having no traction control or ABS it rarely tries to kill me because there's no snap over-steer, it's very predictable, but it's hellish to drive very far in. 330hp to the tires.
My prior mustang, 03 GT. Built/forged 10.2:1 5.5L 2v, ported heads, Comp blower cams, lightning blower @10psi, methanol injection, 2-stage direct port nitrous (275hp total), 98 mustang axle, 3.55 gears, Baer Eradispeed+ brake kit, maximum motorsports everything on bilsteins with the highest spring rates a street driven car should ever have, 18x9's and 18x10's with Sumitomo crash-your-car garbage tires (they SUUUUUCK at under 80mph but gave great tread life and acceptable traction above 100mph), 6pt cage, 3" 5pt harnesses, Momo wheel, Kenny Brown shock tower brace, custom weld-in and weld-on subframe bracing, 2000 Cobra R wing & front splitter, 32gal fuel cell. Traction control & ABS disabled. 754hp to the tires, <3000lbs, incredibly scary car to drive on the street. Until 80mph it was simply not safe. Then the aero package kicked in and things settled down a bit. I built this to go 140mph for roughly 38 minutes straight and that's all it was meant to do even remotely safely. This one sadly no longer exists. I ended up parting it out and cutting the body into 4" wide strips.
Nearly stock 01 Mustang Cobra. Had to replace the factory exhaust from tits to toes. Staying CARB legal pushed that bill to $5k. Completely replaced the factory Mach 460 stereo system from deck to speakers as the original was spitting some audio artifacts; sounds that are not part of the song being produced sometimes while the thing was turned off, and the radio was generally like a house cat, it did what it wanted when it wanted and told me to fuck off a lot. It's also got aftermarket racing seats in front because the factory seat backs were physically broken by whatever apparent lardass owned it before me. Since this pic the windows also got 5% tint in the rear and 35% in the front. The thousands of bucks spent elsewhere on it were just maintenance replacement of worn out stuff like water pumps. It started out as a Nevada car and I've come to find out that someone installed a very high end front mount oil cooler on it and it used to have tinted windows at some point in the past. Rocking unscuffed factory original polished 17x8's w/ Michelin Pilot Sport AS4's (this is an amazing tire for an all season model). May put a coil over conversion on it. Maybe not. This car doesn't like to break traction very easily; a lot of that has to do with tire choice and gearing. So, it's actually a lot harder to drive near the limits than the one below. A lot more comfortable than the other one especially on long trips. Makes an 8hr road trip something you don't dread, actually I look forward to them. On the other hand, it does try to kill me at the drop of a hat (any hat) because it still has plenty of snap over-steer and I disabled the traction control and ABS because I hate that shit. 290hp to the tires on the last tune & I can feel the engine is softer than it should be. Possible new short block coming.
Nothing near stock 2002 Mustang GT. 04 Cobra IRS with a complete Full Tilt Boogie Racing setup, maximum motorsports tubular front everything + coil over all around with street-unfriendly spring rates, cobra brake kit, 98 Teksid block w/ forged everything at 11:1, ported 04 Cobra heads w/ all the trimmings, FR500 cams, TKO 600RR trans, custom 10.5" clutch conversion w/ full face kevlar + sprung hub clutch disc, custom mid-heavy pedal pressure plate, aluminum flywheel, matte FR500 9's & 10's w/ R-compound tires, electric water pump, custom remote mount quick change thermostat, 3.73's, race oriented 6-pt cage/5pt harness/large diameter steering wheel. For being almost the same car, it's super duper different. This one is very controllable and predictable while being super easy to break traction in the rear to initiate a drift. No AC/heat/radio. Windows don't roll down or up reliably. Brakes use racing compound that doesn't really work until they have some heat in them. It's a fun car to drive and despite having no traction control or ABS it rarely tries to kill me because there's no snap over-steer, it's very predictable, but it's hellish to drive very far in. 330hp to the tires.
My prior mustang, 03 GT. Built/forged 10.2:1 5.5L 2v, ported heads, Comp blower cams, lightning blower @10psi, methanol injection, 2-stage direct port nitrous (275hp total), 98 mustang axle, 3.55 gears, Baer Eradispeed+ brake kit, maximum motorsports everything on bilsteins with the highest spring rates a street driven car should ever have, 18x9's and 18x10's with Sumitomo crash-your-car garbage tires (they SUUUUUCK at under 80mph but gave great tread life and acceptable traction above 100mph), 6pt cage, 3" 5pt harnesses, Momo wheel, Kenny Brown shock tower brace, custom weld-in and weld-on subframe bracing, 2000 Cobra R wing & front splitter, 32gal fuel cell. Traction control & ABS disabled. 754hp to the tires, <3000lbs, incredibly scary car to drive on the street. Until 80mph it was simply not safe. Then the aero package kicked in and things settled down a bit. I built this to go 140mph for roughly 38 minutes straight and that's all it was meant to do even remotely safely. This one sadly no longer exists. I ended up parting it out and cutting the body into 4" wide strips.
I wonder how they are sealing the combustion chamber when the valve is closed. There has to be a tolerance for the valve cylinder to rotate over the openings. A normal valve is water tight and gets tighter as the piston comes towards top dead center.
It looks like there are sealing rings around the “valve” to keep gases from escaping the valve ports.
I don’t know how they keep the gasses from going around the valve though
Without surface contact what kind of compression ratio can be obtained? It's a rotating mass and the seal would tear to pieces if in direct contact to the head, valve body and block. Or there's going to be blow by somewhere. I'd like to see it in person and find out how they solve it.
I'd also like to see how they balance that mass of rotating valve assembly.
Rotory valving isnt "new"... I believe its at least from WW2 or probably earlier. There's a reason it isnt used on basically, well, anything...
The only "valve" technology I have seen that has a ton of promise is the Free Valve stuff from Koenigsegg. Infinite variable electromagnetic driven(I think its electromagnetic), camless, etc...
The only "valve" technology I have seen that has a ton of promise is the Free Valve stuff from Koenigsegg. Infinite variable electromagnetic driven(I think its electromagnetic), camless, etc...
I've never seen what they are using in Formula one but for the revs those engines run they probably have the best setup for valve operation.
I watched an episode of Engine Masters discussing and testing lifters. A twenty HP gain from quality lifters over the stock ones was shocking.
Pneumatic valve springs(air controlled valves basically). At least the last time I checked.
Pretty sure MotoGP made Pneumatic valves illegal because of the insane capabilities...
A little insight on these. Holy shit, I didn’t even realize pneumatic springs existed on internal combustion engines.
F1 Pneumatic Valve Spring, a closer look - F1technical.net
www.f1technical.net
That’s awesome. I stopped following F1 when the v8 engines went away but the ever evolving tech is just incredible. I was always a little more fascinated by all of the aero work that went into themA little insight on these. Holy shit, I didn’t even realize pneumatic springs existed on internal combustion engines.
F1 Pneumatic Valve Spring, a closer look - F1technical.net
And I wonder what is being developed right now that’s several years away from a track debut?
Probably more EV shit.
As impressive as the tech is the V6 cars are just not fun to listen to. So it stands to reason that they'll make it worse soon.
Definitely more kers and hybrid tech. I’m sure it’s also a bunch of weird material development also.
