I was out shooting at 32*f yesterday and I would stop shooting when the barrel got to the point that I couldn't wrap my hand around it and and be comfortable for at least a second. I'm newer to reloading and trying to shoot more precision and both of my bolt guns are heavy barrelled. So I was wondering where everyone slowed down or stopped. I want my equipment to last because I'm not shooting matches and just shooting for fun.
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How hot is too hot on a barrel?
- Thread starter Yellowfever440
- Start date
Your barrel shouldn't get so hot so that you can't hold onto it, if you are trying to maximize barrel life, particularly at 32 degrees, that would take a fair amount of shooting in rapid succession. Heavy barrels tend to heat up slower too. Shoot a 3 or 5 shot group, or two, or three, then let it cool, repeat. Clean periodically when accuracy starts to deteriorate. Don't keep banging away until the barrel is hot to the touch, (unless you're in a prairie dog town and when she starts to get warm, grab a different rifle. My humble opinions.
I bought a little temperature strip from McMastercarr and stuck it on my barrel. I try not to let the barrel to exceed 130F. To put that in perspective, one 10 round stage in 90F heat will heat my Heavy Palma up to around 125F from a cold (meh outside temp that is) barrel.
I'm pretty sure this is what he's talking about.
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thanks!I'm pretty sure this is what he's talking about.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
If your just shooting for fun and dont have to shoot fast strings like some matches require then in my opinion I would not ahoot more than 10-12 rounds before letting it cool for awhile.. but that depends on temps outside as well. When im shooting and its 40* outside, 8-10 shots don’t even hardly make my barrel feel warm. In the summer its a different story.
I was able to hold the barrel up til about 50 shots in about 30 minutes then I switched rifles and would shoot it for a little while. Next time I will take a 3rd rifle though.
Just remember, heavy barrels take longer to cool down. In my 6.5cm heavy barrel, I'll shoot 10 rounds and let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes with the bolt open and standing up. The standing up part may help or may not. I think that the warm air in the barrel will rise and draw more air in the chamber.
I've used a laser and a stick on thermometer before. Now I just use my hand. If I can hold the barrel near the chamber without it being uncomfortable (probably 95-105°) it's ok. I also use an air blower and let it blow through the open bolt down the barrel. Usually even on really hot days, 30-60 seconds brings the temp right down between shots. Just don't leave a round in the chamber for longer than you have to. Some powders are very sensitive to temperature.
It's never good to keep shooting a barrel when you grab it and it's too hot. Sometimes it's a must when on a hot day the course of fire is twenty or more shots. You try to hold off as you have time, but in a given condition and time getting short, you need to shoot!
That said, one way to make your barrel last a little longer, as heat is a good indicator it won't, is to find accurate lower pressure loads. Say you have a load of 93% full of H4350. Try a slower powder that will give you a 100% or even compressed load of H4831, which is slower. If your barrel is long enough you'll get a longer push on the bullet giving you that velocity. You will probably also reduce peak pressure a few thousand psi.
The history on this is during WWII we used 4895 in the 30-06 (we had to as the long push from slower powders bent the op rod). It isn't the most useful powder in that case as it's too fast. A good indicator is it's also useful in the .223. Slowing down the powder speed to match the case you are using will reduce heat by reducing peak pressure.
Double base powders also cause increased heat. So, if you substitue a double base for the load you want to arrive at, make sure you give yourself more room for temperature allowance. Double base powders are more temp sensitive, usually, and harder to ignite in the cold.
Newer double base powders have burn retardants to help alleviate that latter statement I just made. Powder manufacturers are really getting that dialed in quite well.
That said, one way to make your barrel last a little longer, as heat is a good indicator it won't, is to find accurate lower pressure loads. Say you have a load of 93% full of H4350. Try a slower powder that will give you a 100% or even compressed load of H4831, which is slower. If your barrel is long enough you'll get a longer push on the bullet giving you that velocity. You will probably also reduce peak pressure a few thousand psi.
The history on this is during WWII we used 4895 in the 30-06 (we had to as the long push from slower powders bent the op rod). It isn't the most useful powder in that case as it's too fast. A good indicator is it's also useful in the .223. Slowing down the powder speed to match the case you are using will reduce heat by reducing peak pressure.
Double base powders also cause increased heat. So, if you substitue a double base for the load you want to arrive at, make sure you give yourself more room for temperature allowance. Double base powders are more temp sensitive, usually, and harder to ignite in the cold.
Newer double base powders have burn retardants to help alleviate that latter statement I just made. Powder manufacturers are really getting that dialed in quite well.
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