How much will I lose assembling the rifle myself?

[B.Wilker]

I’m planning a new to me rifle and while I want to use good components, some of them come at a premium as a rifle. Can’t swing that much at one time,but could piece something together a bit at a time. And could perhaps save a bit getting some things off the PX. I dont think I’ll do PRS. I’d like to, but I work too much to be consistent. So it would mostly be going for the most accurate range gun possible, maybe some long range shooting classes, and possibly deer hunting in NC. And maybe one or two matches a year if I can. I originally was going to just buy a Desert tech SrS since I’ve seen some really cheap ones lately. But some folks I trust seem to think the triggers aren’t so good and the feeding is an issue with them. So I’m contemplating a 6.5 creedmoor, maybe an impact or bighorn in a mpa chassis since I’m used to AR’s. I put a tl3 in a mpa chassis last year but had to sell before even shooting it because of a big unexpected expense.

I have no gunsmithing experience, but I have years of experience working on electro-mechanical systems. Up to now, I’ve only mounted scopes and assembled AR’s as far as guns. I know a gunsmith will have experience I don’t assembling weapons. Just wondering how much I’d lose [edit accuracy and reliability wise] by buying a barrel and action (or a barreled action) and adding a stock and muzzle device myself vs buying a rifle? Heck, is that even quantifiable, it’s something I’ve been wondering about. I tend to be a planner going over every option repeatedly. Got to love being an over thinker.

 

[gconnoyer]

The TL3 plan is fine and really what a lot of people do.
Buy parts and assemble them themselves. Its fairly straightforward and requires minimal tools.

a TL3, Hunts Long Range prefit barrel in whatever chamber you want, pick a brake that you like, trigger that you want, stock/chassis you like, get assembling.

 

[Steel head]

Buy the TL3 from Zermatt and send them the trigger to match it up.
Trigger timing is probably the biggest possible pitfall.
Rest of the assembly is usually pretty easy.

 

[LV Precision]

Bought my Impact 6.5cm barreled action from Altus, and picked up a used MPA chassis and Razor 4.5-27 from the PX. Paired it with a TT Diamond, APA Little Bastard Gen 3 brake, and MDT mags on black Friday sales, and put it all together myself. Have had literally zero issues, and it's a sub-0.5 MOA gun.

This was my first precision rig, and saved $1500+ by doing it this way. I wouldn't hesitate to putting it up against any other gun out there (performance wise).

 

[IndianaRem5r]

The Bighorn TL3 is a great suggestion. It can take all the Savage pre-fits. This is the best known premium action that you can assemble a barrel for in your basement (with a few tools and research). It is not difficult. If $1250 is a bit tall for an action, you can get a Savage action and work with that. I have an excellent custom .223 built on a Savage action that I built myself.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Do you worry about keeping a chick’s pussy tight for the next guy? Fuck no. Send it and forget it dude.

 

[King_beardsly]

Tl3 with a good prefit barrel, slap it in a chassis and send it.

 

[B.Wilker]

Redneck what does your comment provide to the conversation? I dont talk about saving anything for the next guy. But if we’re talking the rifle done by a gunsmith being .5 moa and the same components resulting in a 1.5 moa rifle for the diy guy, to me that’s important to know. Thus the question...

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Common sense. Do you think a gunsmith is any more accurate at clicking a torque wrench than you?

You’re post only talks about assembling parts. Anybody with half brain function can do that.

 

[J McGriddle]

IMO, the Zermatt Origin is a steal for the features you get. You will save $400 compared to the TL3 and I doubt you will be able to tell the difference.

 

[FisherT&C]

My honest opinion. When money is an issue. Always put your money in your barrel first, second the optic, do not get crazy on a action. So my path for you that would recommend for the best results possible is. A trued up Remington 700 action from Northland Shooter Supply, a remage barrel, Criterion, X caliber, or proof. Find a Night Force NXS used on here or Ebay, find a used chassis, MPA, XLR, or KRG. Timney or Trigger Tech trigger, decent rings and 20 Moa base. Let the good times roll.

 

[B.Wilker]

And what does that have do with saving wear on sex organs? Besides, if There’s anything I’ve learned over the years is that there’s a huge difference in someone who knows the “theory” of putting a specific something together and someone having experience getting different results when they do it.

I can tell a kid to go plug a simulator box into a torpedo tube. It’s just a plug, so no difference right? The difference is the kid will take three times as long and likely not have it connected properly and I’d have to re-do it. And then had to explain the trick to it and have him practice til he could do it.

For instance not knowing about timing the trigger. Until someone posted that earlier in this thread, I didn’t even know that was a thing. My experience in that is ar triggers, they are plug and play, you have to work to screw that up.

 

[Ledzep]

Accuracy is in the barrel. If a gunsmith fits a Krieger, Bartlein, Rock Creek, Brux, etc... or if you install a prefit that was made from a Kreiger, Bartlein, Rock Creek, Brux, etc.. blank, there will be no measurable change in accuracy unless/until you get into world record level BR/F-class shooting/reloading.

Bighorn/Zermatt TL-3's are extremely consistent on critical dimensions and are a great place to start for a prefit. Another action I highly recommend (especially on a budget) is the American Rifle Co. Nucleus. You can also find prefits for them, and they'll also accept any Savage small-shank prefit.

 

[b6graham]

if you assemble a TL3 with a custom prefit barrel into a good chassis with a quality scope and it shoots 1.5MOA you need to look at your shooting skills and nothing else

 

[King_beardsly]

I’ve had great luck running my TT Diamond on my TL3 with out sending it out to get timed and my origin had similar luck with a TT primary. My home assembled TL3 shoots lights out, it’s was just a torque it and send it deal.

 

[B.Wilker]

And yet I didn’t say I assembled a rifle and got 1.5 moa. Having never been a precision rifle shooter, I asked the question of was there a major difference in me vs a smith assembling the gun accuracy wise. I got some useful answers to that and some good suggestions as to what worked, ie tl3 with a prefit in a chassis. A couple of you decided to come in an either flat talk trash or make comments on my example.

If I give a kid who knows how to use tools and the theory of an engine the tools and parts to a 5.0 mustang engine and did the same with a race engine builder would I expect a difference? The answer is yes, because the guy who knows theory doesn’t know the tips and tricks known by the expert. Granted a rifle is much simpler, but I asked the question because I didn’t know.

If I didn’t know better I’d think some of you just want to come shit on the new guy. If that’s the case, head on out cause I’ve had people that know how to talk trash do far better than you.

 

[b6graham]

arfcom called. they're missing a douchebag

 

[b6graham]

I’ve had great luck running my TT Diamond on my TL3 with out sending it out to get timed and my origin had similar luck with a TT primary. My home assembled TL3 shoots lights out, it’s was just a torque it and send it deal.

torque barrel
2 pins in trigger
torque 2 action screws
torque 4-16 scope screws

boom. 1/2MOA rifle

 

[King_beardsly]

torque barrel
2 pins in trigger
torque 2 action screws
torque 4-16 scope screws

boom. 1/2MOA rifle

Pretty much, you know first hand how simple zermatt has made it to have a tack driver

 

[b6graham]

Pretty much, you know first hand how simple zermatt has made it to have a tack driver

more than once

 

[FisherT&C]

Trued 700, Rem-age Barrel, KRG Bravo, NXS, get some training. You get to the point where that set up is holding you back, then you can worry about that fancy shit and "timing" for god sakes.

 

[b6graham]

Trued 700, Rem-age Barrel, KRG Bravo, NXS, get some training. You get to the point where that set up is holding you back, then you can worry about that fancy shit and "timing" for god sakes.

with what you pay for a trued 700, there are much better options. (unless you're talking LRI or TacOps but that's different)

the NXS is a joke, especially for the price. Razor g2, NX8 etc win every day

 

[B.Wilker]

If it’s that simple, this long range stuff will be far easier than the ar game was for at least the rifle part. Last time I did anything long range other than quals was years ago shooting NM AR’s with iron sights at a Navy match. With this I get to have an optic and it seems the guns are much simpler as well.
I mainly just enjoy trigger time with an accurate gun, but never got into bolt guns. Thanks for the pointers, I’m gonna try my hand at it and see how it comes out.

 

[Army First]

I’ve had great luck running my TT Diamond on my TL3 with out sending it out to get timed and my origin had similar luck with a TT primary. My home assembled TL3 shoots lights out, it’s was just a torque it and send it deal.

torque barrel
2 pins in trigger
torque 2 action screws
torque 4-16 scope screws

boom. 1/2MOA rifle

Buy if that's what you want. That registered trademark will probably help it hold some value.
I enjoy the build, from the background in your OP, you will too.

 

[wade2big]

It is exactly as @b6graham said. Buy an action that accepts shouldered prefits. Buy a shouldered prefit from any number of qualified sources. Screw it on the action. Drop it in a stock or chassis and tighten down. That is it. As long as you dont buy a bighorn then trigger timing isn't a thing. If you go that route then it apparently is. A gunsmith does nothing different regardless of what anyone tells you. In the uncommon event that you have a fitment issue that stumps you, only then would you need a gunsmith. Likely wont happen.

 

[B.Wilker]

I guess I need to be more careful what I’m saying here. I wasn’t even thinking money, I meant accuracy/reliability the whole time and it never clicked why folks were talking about value.

Army First, I think you’re right about me enjoying the build. I’ve found I tend to enjoy working on things as much as using them. I’m the same way with vehicles. I tend to work on them til they are how I want them, then get the itch to look for a new “project” after I enjoy them for a bit.

 

[jcmullis2]

Like a few others have said get with nss for a slightly trued 700 action and remage barrel. That’ll cost about $1100. I’d get the long action but that’s just me. Add a couple hundred for an awesome trigger and another $500 for a stock and don’t look back. Easy peasy

 

[b6graham]

the most 'unreliable' part will be the magazines

buy 3. maybe all 3 work perfect, or maybe some of them need their feed lips tweaked. that's not a build versus buy thing, its a stamped metal thing

if you're buying a custom action (Zermatt, Lone Peak, Defiance) and a quality chassis, your 'need' to bed goes down as well. the chassis solve much of the problems from yesteryear with bottom metal and pillars etc

those are two of the biggest things that changed the last 5 years. prefit barrels. chassis.

that being said, is there an advantage to GAP, SAC etc yeah it takes some potential headache away. and as good as they are, I think the only custom rifle I would ever wait on is a TacOps

 

[Fret]

I like to screw my guns together myself. It takes long enough waiting for the barrel and I don't want to wait the extra weeks for a smith to put the gun together. I just use Savage or TL-3 actions. I'm pretty happy with the accuracy even with my novice shooting skills.

Savage with Shilen .223 barrel: 5 at 100 yards.








TL-3 with X-Caliber 6BR barrel: 5 at 100 yards

 

[Austinjunks]

I assembled my first bolt rifle with no issues and saved an ass of time and money compared to what was quoted. I went with the American Rifle Company Nucleus 1.1 when they were on sale, great action. Go for it, if I can build a sub 0.5 gun, fucking anybody can. Good luck.

 

[Boatninja]

Go for it dude, I recommend getting proper go, no-go gauges for headspace which after being shown once how to do is simple. I think that is the only place you could do something hazardous. I have both a Nucleus and Mausingfield, both with Barlocs all from ARC and four different barrels from two different makers and change things up with my mood and hunting season, all shoot .5-.75 MOA with Hornady off the shelf ammo. A new rifle is the price of a barrel and gauges away.

 

[want2learn]

Please follow up on your post.....i too am really curious.

My experience on this forum has been very gratifying, educational and informative..... and while i certainly do not have your experience please consider giving the forum a chance. I've found the community here genuinely goes out of it's way to help even to a beginner like myself.

sometimes it's hard to communicate in a text format...at least for myself. easy for content to get misconstrued.

I think it's really cool that you're going to build your own rifle.

 

[jcmullis2]

I like to screw my guns together myself. It takes long enough waiting for the barrel and I don't want to wait the extra weeks for a smith to put the gun together. I just use Savage or TL-3 actions. I'm pretty happy with the accuracy even with my novice shooting skills.

Savage with Shilen .223 barrel: 5 at 100 yards.








TL-3 with X-Caliber 6BR barrel: 5 at 100 yards

Those are some damn fine groups. The last one on the right in the bottom pic can’t be more than.1”. I don’t see how a person could ask for better.

 

[Sutherlandsd]

I would go Bighorn either TL3 or Origin and one of the many prefits available then if I wanted to go cheap a KRG bravo or spend a little more get an ACC or MPA. Trigger timing on a Bighorn/Zermatt is probably not necessary but honestly can be done yourself in about 10m if you want to get picky. Or... if your afraid you will mess up a $15 part then pay the shipping to Zermatt pay them a pittance and have them do it or just live with it. I have timed all of my bighorn actions but I am picky as hell.

 

[Steel+Killer]

If you were not wanting to build I would say buy a Tikka CTR, drop it in a KRG Bravo and go shooting, but sounds like you are looking forward to the build as much as anything so go for it you are on the right track.

This is probably the best LR shooting forum around, but don't wear your feelings on your sleeve around here......LOL

 

[B.Wilker]

Well, it looks like I’m gonna be doing this slower than planned since I now have to plan an unexpected move. But I don’t want to not shoot while I’m collecting parts. I already have bipod and a gen 2 Razor I pulled off my NMA4 AR. Palmetto-Pride, I didn’t quite take your advice, found a tikka tac a1 in 6.5 for less than I could put a ctr in a chassis for. That should take care of getting off to at least a start.