Title says it all
Also, what solution do you use in your ultra sonic cleaner to get the lead off?
Also, what solution do you use in your ultra sonic cleaner to get the lead off?
Suppressors How often do you clean your 22 suppressor?
- Thread starter nikdanja
- Start date
Every 300-500 rounds usually. Very quick brushing, 50/50 of purple power and water. Dead Air mask, stainless baffles. If you have aluminum I'm not sure what is safe.
I clean mine about every 400-500 rounds. I've gone as much as 1000 but wouldn't ever again as you can see the crud starting to close up/obstruct the end cap. Mine are all stainless, so I plug one end with a foam ear plug and fill them with CLR. Let them soak a few hours like that, then disassemble and brush off what's left.
I usually do it after every trip to the range (150-500 rounds) between the rifle and pistol. Usually clean with RemOil, a brass brush, and paper towels. I was thinking about waiting till after my range trip again tomorrow, but, I do have the sonic cleaner running brass in it right now from today, so when that's done, I might stick them in the hot solution, and run a cycle and see how well it cleans in a cycle in my sonic cleaner. If it does well, then I'll start cleaning it that way. I'm just going to run it in the Hornady brass cleaning solution (diluted) water that I'm using to clean brass right now. I figure it's designed to clean carbon off of brass, so why not carbon off of stainless steel? So, we'll see.
That's what I have (DA Mask HD), so I was going to run the Hornady brass cleaning solution that's already in there cleaning brass right now. Then I'll get some Purple Power or Simple Green and start running it and see. My sonic cleaner has a heat function, so I have it set pretty high, I figure I'll run it on heat, to help break it up, too.
Yes, I have the Hornady 2L with the heating element as well. I'll generally start with hot water as well.
I believe Hornady has a gun parts cleaning solution in addition to their brass cleaner. I've never tried it as I was recommended and know multiple others that do the purple power 50/50.
I've only had my PTP Tactical Scout 19D out a couple of times but I've cleaned it after each range session. The manufacture says it can be cleaned with CLP or in a sonic cleaner. Since it has totally stainless steel internals housed in anodized aluminum housing I clean it like any firearm using bore cleaner, patches and brushes and wiped down with an oiled patch and reassembled.
Same. I've got the Magnum 3L (the old style, that's all metal on the outside and rectangle shaped). I'll run it up to 145, and start with hot water, too. Seems to work best for brass. I decided to stick my baffles on top of the brass for my 2nd run tonight, and see how well it works. I put about 400 rounds through it today, so it was pretty caked-up. I still cleaned the tube by hand, as well as the end cap and the threaded end. I didn't want to strip the finish off of them in the sonic cleaner.
They don't make this version anymore, but you can buy something similar at Harbor Freight or on Amazon for a fraction of what I paid for mine.
Granted, I bought mine about 15 years ago, so they were still pretty new to the reloading world then, so prices were high.
Hornady Lock-n-Load 3L Magnum Sonic Cleaner
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This ^ plus lead creates lead acetate. If handled without the right gloves and respirator, that lead gets inside you (inhaled, you say? see #3 here). This is called lead poisoning, and is extremely unpleasant and can be fatal.
If you pour it down the drain, someone or something will eventually drink it. Here's some info on gloves I dug up, and here's a discussion on how to safely dispose of the poison. If you are a chemist, you'll know the right salts to add to neutralize it, but I'm no chemist and I don't know what to add. I'd heard of people just letting the solution evaporate, leaving lead acetate flakes behind, I guess?
If the evaporated result is flakes (no idea) the flakes would still be fucking dangerous. Kids and adults get lead poisoning all of the time from lead paint that’s flaked off and turned to dust. And “dehydrated” lead acetate, if there is such a thing, probably easily dissolves back into water again, so you can’t just ethically throw it the trash or next to your apple tree (unless you like eating leaded apples).
Assuming your suppressor is not made of aluminum, if I were you, I'd buy a Franklin wet tumbler (comes with 5lbs of ss pins), add some dawn dish-soap, a dash of Lemi shine, and let it run for hours and hours. Pour the solution in a 5 gal bucket and let is evaporate, as I imagine there's some lead in there (not lead acetate, so it's not very dangerous).
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I will never go beyond 500 rounds again .... More often is better. Heated ultrasonic with 100% simple green. cycled multiple times
and I still use some sort of pick and wire brush. It doesn't go back together unless it's over 96% clean. After it's clean,
I still coat it in something to mitigate particle adhesion. I keep trying new things. IE: anti weld spatter spray, high
temperature anti-seize with nickel, Hornady case lube. I'm going to keep trying until I find a decent solution.
I was surprised that even with an ultrasonic cleaner, they don't come out looking like new. But that's my goal.... New-ish !
and I still use some sort of pick and wire brush. It doesn't go back together unless it's over 96% clean. After it's clean,
I still coat it in something to mitigate particle adhesion. I keep trying new things. IE: anti weld spatter spray, high
temperature anti-seize with nickel, Hornady case lube. I'm going to keep trying until I find a decent solution.
I was surprised that even with an ultrasonic cleaner, they don't come out looking like new. But that's my goal.... New-ish !
Just went and checked my baffles in my sonic cleaner and after 60 minutes (I run 90 minute cycles) of sitting on top of my brass (completely submerged in the mix of Hornady Brass Cleaner solution diluted with hot water, and running the heat cycle @ 145ºF, my baffles are WAY cleaner (probably 85% clean) than they were when I dropped them in there.
It shouldn't take more than a quick brushing with the brass brush when I remove them to get the rest of the crap off. Most of the hard caked-on crap has already fallen off. I'm impressed. I will be cleaning them like this from now on when I leave the range and clean my brass. The Mask HD baffles will be getting tossed in there, too.
It shouldn't take more than a quick brushing with the brass brush when I remove them to get the rest of the crap off. Most of the hard caked-on crap has already fallen off. I'm impressed. I will be cleaning them like this from now on when I leave the range and clean my brass. The Mask HD baffles will be getting tossed in there, too.
The armorer at the machine gun range suggested nozzle Kleen anti-spatter spray. He uses it on their MP5SD integrals, and says it makes a world of difference. I'm assuming he does like I used to do when I was a welder/fabricator for about 15 years. I would spray it on, let it dry, and then use my welder, and it worked best, instead of trying to start welding immediately afterwards.
I've been thinking about trying it with my Mask to see if it helps to prevent crap from sticking to the raw stainless baffles.
I clean mine every 500 ish rounds.
I don't use an ultrasonic cleaner.
It really depends though. If your can has sat around for a long time in between cleanings the carbon can basically 'set up' and become rock hard. If it's like that use some BoreTech Rimfire Blend or Boretech C4 Carbon Remover to basically pre treat the baffles. Put that stuff on the baffles and let them sit for a while then toss them into a tumbler with stainless steel media.
Keep in mind the answers to this general question depends a lot on what kind of suppressor (mainly the type of materials used) to make the baffles.
I clean each range visit, 200-500 rounds. Just spray on CLP, let sit a bit and brush off. I do not go for squeaky clean, just remove the crud.
I've found that even one range visit if ignored can make it harder to disassemble than I like after the next visit.
I've found that even one range visit if ignored can make it harder to disassemble than I like after the next visit.
I never thought about putting them in a tumbler. My baffles are aluminum tho. Don’t think the stainless steel will be nice to them no?
IMO, the SS pins would pound the hell out of aluminum baffles. They peen the necks of brass cases, and aluminum is softer than brass.
Usually 500ish rounds. I use CLR on my baffles. Usually a 30min soak and everything wipes right off
Definitely do not put them in a tumbler. That said the products I mentioned will still work really well for breaking up and softening up baked on set up carbon.
I have 3 and clean them every 1000ish rounds. The one with AL baffles gets coated with dielectric grease before reassembly. All get cleaned in carburetor cleaner. SS baffles occasionally go in the dip.
After I got the SS baffles in my TBAC 22TD and SWR Spectre II really clean a year or so ago, I heated them up to 195*F on a tray in the oven, then picked them up individually with tweezers and dropped them into a jar of DOT 5 (purple, silicone-based) brake fluid, and left them in it for several minutes. Poured the brake fluid back into the can, and sat the baffles on multiple sheets of paper towels for 20-30 min, then reassembled the suppressors. Whether you use DOT 5 silicone-based brake fluid, or spend more on pure silicone, it will do wonders for making it easy to wipe fouling & crud off with paper towels the next time you need to clean. And re-treating the SS baffles with silicone after wiping them clean is a rather small price to pay for not screwing around with vinegar & hydrogen peroxide and creating a toxic residue.
This is genius... I might give this a try on my Mask HD baffles. Do you have to retreat after every cleaning session, or does it last a few times?
You know, I was kind of afraid not to re-treat with silicone after going to all the trouble to get the baffles truly clean the first time. So I don't really know how many cycles it's good for. Right now, I'm researching ultrasonic cleaners to use for cleaning my CF suppressors, and when I finally get off top-dead-center and make the purchase, I'll probably try using Zep CLR or purple industrial cleaner on the SS baffles of the RF cans to see how long it takes to get 'em really clean again. Of course, after you de-grease with an ultrasonic cleaner, that removes all doubt - you know you've got to treat them with silicone again after that.
I had read an article sometime ago about doing something like this but have never been able to find it. I think they used a mix of transmission fluid and some other type of oil. But i have never been able to find it again.
So dot 5 brake fluid or pure silicon. Thank you.
For stainless baffles (Mask) I shoot until accuracy falls off then tear the can down and tumble the baffles with SS pins and Dawn. Usually 500-1000 rounds or so. It doesn’t seem to peen the baffles any and I tell myself the mechanically scraped off lead is a lot safer than the lead dissolved in “the dip”
I read somewhere they were saying heated/aerosolized silicon is really really really bad for your lungs...might be ok with .22 suppressors depending on how hot you get it
Probably from me. See this link. Nothing to do with heat, it’s about it being aerosolized via the bullet whipping through the suppressor. Maybe heating it is bad too?
Juice isn't worth the squeeze, in my opinion. Ever get silicone on your hands? Imagine that crap in your lungs.
Can't speak to rimfire, but I did the DOT5 brake fluid thing on AL 9mm baffles. The smoke, the smell, was horrible. NEVER again. I could smell and taste the crap for hours. I probably shortened my life that afternoon.
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Hmm - I wonder if that's an issue with something as low pressure as std vel 22LR ammo? I've never shot suppressed indoors, and with the low volume of gas this ammo creates, I wonder if it's even an issue - unless you were shooting into the wind, and whatever gases that were coming out of the suppressor were blowing right back into your face. Still, that sounds like a very serious issue, especially since so many of the city dwellers here on the Hide DO shoot indoors - why tempt fate? I read about using DOT 5 brake fluid a few years ago on RFC IIRC, and this toxicity issue was never mentioned - obviously, or I wouldn't have posted about using it.
A MUST, PRE-TREAT BEFORE YOU USE YOUR NEW SUPPRESSOR...
I have an AAC Element 2 that I took apart after about 500 rounds and found it was heavily fouled with lead and carbon fouling. This stuff was seriously baked on. Basically fused to the metal surfaces of the tube and baffles. It seemed this rate of build up would definitely cause clearance...
www.rimfirecentral.com
At least with semi-autos, you'll get a bit of gas coming through the action. Really isn't much with each shot, but the "problem" with 22LR blastin' is that there are always a lot of shots. So I don't think I want to add anything to the suppressor if it's on a semi-auto, because some of it will probably end up back in my face.
With regards to the specific hazard presented by inhalation of silicone vapor, it doesn't appear to be toxic but it is a potential irritant. I think most of us have been exposed to nastier stuff in the process of shooting and cleaning firearms (not to mention our other hobbies and occupational exposures), but it's still in the category of things that are best avoided.
I go 2500 or so before cleaning... Rugged Oculus and I soak baffles in CLR and they come out brand new...rinse, dry then a light layer of silicone
This thread reminds me about my old sealed tbac 22L-1. Maybe I should do something with that guy
The DIP scares me to no end. Mask baffles get a 45 minute soak in CLR to get the carbon off, a quick rinse in DW in the ultra sonic, and then into the tumbler (4 pounds of pins) filled with hot water and a squirt of dawn for 12 to 24 hours to beat the lead off (seems to build up around where they are clipped). Come out looking like new. The tube gets a soak in CLR with the end caps and all get rinsed in DW in the US. After that the only extra step is that I hit the end caps with brake cleaner (drives off the water) and oil them quick like!
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I have a suppressor with a single 1 piece aluminum core have used it in a tumbler with stainless pins, took some anodizing off but didn't beat it up too bad.
Tumbling in rice worked very well, took of most of the carbon build up, only the hard lead fouling was left which i remove with a brass brush in and WD40.
I clean every 500ish rounds, if I leave longer than that I notice a drop off in accuracy.
Tumbling in rice worked very well, took of most of the carbon build up, only the hard lead fouling was left which i remove with a brass brush in and WD40.
I clean every 500ish rounds, if I leave longer than that I notice a drop off in accuracy.
My can is aluminum. The manufacturer says every 2000. i found that to be about 1500 too many. Because my baffles are aluminum I can’t use the dip. So last time I shot over 500 rds, I bead blasted them and soaked everything in silicone oil (think DOT brake fluid #5).
now I shoot, and wipe off the glop when I’m done shooting, rub it all down in silicone oil again and move forward…takes 20 minutes for the can…about the same time it takes for the gun.
now I shoot, and wipe off the glop when I’m done shooting, rub it all down in silicone oil again and move forward…takes 20 minutes for the can…about the same time it takes for the gun.
Never.
My oldest has well over 10k rounds through it, and still works well. They are only $100 or so, I'd rather ditch them than bugger around with cleaning and playing in lead dust.
My oldest has well over 10k rounds through it, and still works well. They are only $100 or so, I'd rather ditch them than bugger around with cleaning and playing in lead dust.
That was with rifles. I'm finding out every 500 rounds is a better cleaning interval for pistols.
Old thread.
@padom , do you heat up the baffles & then spray/dip silicone? Or just spray/dip cold?
Am pre-treating 2 brand new baffle sets ATM (a .22lr & a 9mm). Brake cleaner, dried, heated in oven to 250, soaking in DOT-5 silicone ATM.
