I have 1000 dollars (What should I buy )

[faylix]

I went through this recently.

I ended up getting an aero solus comp for $1600

I'm super happy with my gun, especially the fact I can upgrade the barrel later after I shoot it out. I was thinking I was going to want a TT diamond trigger but the stock TT trigger is actually really good. First single stage I've actually liked.

If I really had to keep the budget down I would find a used Tikka CTR barreled action or a BA in a cheap used chassis and put it in an MDT chassis later when I could afford it.

Other people mentioned the HOWA stuff and honestly I almost went for it - I keep seeing cool howa builds on here and Ive since found barrel and trigger upgrades for them. If you don't plan to shoot more more than 500 yards Its a real option.

regards,

 

[HaydenLane]

Since almost no one is answering the question, I’ve seen used Tikka CTRs for under ~$800. Shopping around, you might even be able to find a new one for under $1100. That, a Howa, a used Bergara HMR, or some flavor of Ruger American are probably the most feasible options.

An origin and a barrel with a discount codes is cool and all, but it still needs a trigger and stock or chassis. It isn’t close to in-budget, and it doesn’t matter. Someone who can only set aside a grand for the rifle will not be shooting enough to care.

 

[stanley_white]

Other people mentioned the HOWA stuff and honestly I almost went for it - I keep seeing cool howa builds on here and Ive since found barrel and trigger upgrades for them. If you don't plan to shoot more more than 500 yards Its a real option.

regards,

I have shot my $429 Howa Barreled Action from Brownells in 6.5 Creedmoor to 1,200 yards.

-Stan

 

[Thump_rrr]

Your rifle as set up kind of counters your own argument with a $5,000 optic sitting on top of it. Most on here with agree that you can make a Savage rifle shoot but the gritty action and feeding issues make it problematic for the novice to use in competition. It is true you could never sell a Savage for the price of what all of the upgrades cost because by the time you are at $1,200 or more there are nicer options out of the box.

I’ve never had a gritty Savage action.
They are sloppy if you are moving the bolt handle around but when you are on the clock and cycling the bolt quickly for follow-up shots you don’t notice it one bit.
All of my Savage rifles are setup for AICS magazines and don’t have any feeding issues.
I’ve never broken an extractor either.

As for the Tangent Theta it was on there to remove another variable from the equation.
It also shows you that I have nothing against spending money for certain things.
I’m sure some guys on this site need to reach for their angina medication when they see the Tangent on a Savage.

I’m not saying that a Savage or a Howa barreled action is the perfect setup but for someone with a limited budget who wants to get out there and shoot it won’t be the rifle that’s the limiting factor.
I would say a new shooter with a $1,000 rifle and 2,500 rounds down the pipe will most likely be more competitive than a shooter with a $3,000 rifle and 500 rounds down the pipe.

 

[BJames]

Hey what’s going on everyone im bored lol. I am looking to get a new rifle I have 1000 what would you get ? Use case bench rest , competition just all around package . Thanks hope to hear from you guys

Used tikka ctr in 6.5 creed, or save up a bit more and get a new one. Shoot it as is for awhile, upgrade as you learn. That would be my first choice. Ruger rpr in 6.5 creed, really needs nothing. Find a used Remington 700 varmint or other heavy barrel with some barrel life left in it. Howa is a great option too.

 

[Baron23]

In 2025, These two are likely free. The pic is older than the article...

A national sex strike! Spain's 'high-class hookers refuse to sleep with bankers until they open up credit lines to cash-strapped families'

Madrid's top-end prostitutes say their indefinite strike will continue until 'they fulfil their responsibility to society' and start offering bigger loans for struggling Spaniards.

www.dailymail.co.uk

You actually did a search for that picture?

I claim poetic license and don't care if they now look like this:

LOLOLOLOL

 

[Baron23]

This option would end up costing you much, much more.......

Well...for both of them...yeah. hahaha

 

[Holliday]

My first 6.5CM was a budget build using the Cabela’s / Bass Pro Savage 12FV.
I put it in a Black Friday MDT LSS-XL chassis and I was in for under $1,000. You can also use the MDT XRS or KRG Bravo chassis. to keep it under the $1,000 mark.

Spend the $30 and get the Savage tactical bolt knob from MidwayUSA.
When you have an extra $100 kicking around you can upgrade the trigger to a Rifle Basix SAV-1.

This was my load development target from New Year’s Eve 2000. It was -20°F that day.

At the time I was loading on a Lee Challenger Breechlock press with Lee dies.

Stick to your budget. Get into reloading and start sending rounds down range. When you can afford to upgrade then do it.

This is not the perfect rifle but a great budget precision rifle that will get you started putting rounds down range.

Shortly you will get the guys coming on here saying that Savage rifles are unreliable or junk or you’re throwing your money away and will never recoup your investment.

If you listen to those people you will spend $5,000 to $10,000 before you fire your first round.
View attachment 8610019View attachment 8610020

The Savage I cut my teeth on. With just that 10x fix swfa and tupperware stock, I was making hits reliably out to 1140 yards with handloads. Finally burned out the barrel around 5k warm rounds……

 

[Thump_rrr]

This option would end up costing you much, much more.......

You don’t pay hookers for sex.
You pay them to leave.

 

[stanley_white]

The Savage I cut my teeth on. With just that 10x fix swfa and tupperware stock, I was making hits reliably out to 1140 yards with handloads. Finally burned out the barrel around 5k warm rounds……

View attachment 8610845
View attachment 8610846

I did something similar, “Book-Ending” so to speak — one Howa and one AI AT.

I don’t need nor want anything in between.

-Stan

 

[Holliday]

I did something similar, “Book-Ending” so to speak — one Howa and one AI AT.

I don’t need nor want anything in between.

-Stan

Those two photos in my post are the same rifle.

 

[AZLong]

You actually did a search for that picture?

I claim poetic license and don't care if they now look like this:

View attachment 8610836

LOLOLOLOL

Probably close...and she's hot.

 

[Baron23]

Those two photos in my post are the same rifle.

What's the same...changed the barrel per your post, changed the stock (chassis), different scope...so, you kept the Savage action, right?

 

[Holliday]

What's the same...changed the barrel per your post, changed the stock (chassis), different scope...so, you kept the Savage action, right?

Same barrel, just threaded for the can. The chassis was added before the 5k burn out. I went 6.5 cm next but then ended up having a cash emergency and parted it out.

I never “bookended” with an AI. Out of my paygrade.

Next up I built a 6.5 cm on a rem 700 action.

 

[camotoe]

Tikka for $650

 

[stanley_white]

Those two photos in my post are the same rifle.

Attention to detail fail on my part. I was looking at the stock.

-Stan

 

[Thump_rrr]

That’s an incredibly rare chassis.
It’s on my wish list.

 

[Chickentoast]

New Tikkas:

Tikka T3X Rifle Blowout!

For a limited time, save up to 33% on select Tikka T3x rifles!

www.eurooptic.com

 

[qec238]

At the risk of actually answering your question (and getting banned )... Find a used Savage 10/110/12 with the bolt face that you want and start there. I have a model 10 (308) and 12 (223). Both were very accurate out of the box and served as inexpensive platforms to upgrade later as needed. I replaced the barrel on the model 12 with one from Urban Sniper for about $350 and eventually the trigger. Did the work myself. The end result is something that shoots under 1/2" at 100yds and usually much better. Out of the box was not much worse then that. I replaced the barrel because it was shot out. On the model 10 I eventually replaced the stock (with one that costs 180) and the trigger. Stock barrel is very accurate.
I also have a Begara HMR 14 in 6.5 purchased used a couple of years ago for $800. It's very nice rifle and quite accurate but not in the same league as the Savage for accuracy.
I like to tinker so having an upgrade path appeals to me. If you can find a used Savage model 12 LRPV or FT/R for $1000 then you will have a great starting point. They are out there. Mine was $1000 about a year ago.

 

[Kayakfish1]

I had similar wants to the op a few years ago, I went with a bergara hmr picked up from gander mtn on sale (I think it was in the ballpark of 850ish) and then rigged it out with used stuff off the px.
Picked up a viper pst 5-25, kelbly precision rings, mk throw lever and level, and I had a Harris bipod laying around….total was in the ballpark of 15-1600 if I remember correctly.
Then after running it for a while I upgraded to an atlas bipod, trigger tech, and got a can on it.
For what I want and need it for it does its job perfectly, I run factory Eldm thru it and have been very happy with my results.

 

[Turkeytider]

At the risk of actually answering your question (and getting banned )... Find a used Savage 10/110/12 with the bolt face that you want and start there. I have a model 10 (308) and 12 (223). Both were very accurate out of the box and served as inexpensive platforms to upgrade later as needed. I replaced the barrel on the model 12 with one from Urban Sniper for about $350 and eventually the trigger. Did the work myself. The end result is something that shoots under 1/2" at 100yds and usually much better. Out of the box was not much worse then that. I replaced the barrel because it was shot out. On the model 10 I eventually replaced the stock (with one that costs 180) and the trigger. Stock barrel is very accurate.
I also have a Begara HMR 14 in 6.5 purchased used a couple of years ago for $800. It's very nice rifle and quite accurate but not in the same league as the Savage for accuracy.
I like to tinker so having an upgrade path appeals to me. If you can find a used Savage model 12 LRPV or FT/R for $1000 then you will have a great starting point. They are out there. Mine was $1000 about a year ago.

Certainly can confirm concerning the Model 12 LRPV. Tank of a gun, well made ( it’s an “ upper end” Savage, not to be lumped in with the Axis or 110 lines ), target action, HS Precision stock, adjustable trigger to 1 lb or slightly less, mine is VERY accurate out to 500 yards, our range limit. .223, great barrel life. Flawless through 1700 rounds. Can recommend wholeheartedly.

 

[Chickentoast]

Certainly can confirm concerning the Model 12 LRPV. Tank of a gun, well made ( it’s an “ upper end” Savage, not to be lumped in with the Axis or 110 lines ), target action, HS Precision stock, adjustable trigger to 1 lb or slightly less, mine is VERY accurate out to 500 yards, our range limit. .223, great barrel life. Flawless through 1700 rounds. Can recommend wholeheartedly.

Just be aware it weighs 1 million pounds. Multiple twist rates as well.

 

[Turkeytider]

Just be aware it weighs 1 million pounds. Multiple twist rates as well.

LOL! Well, not quite 1 million! It’s listed at 11 lbs, probably 12-13 when all up. That’s light for a dedicated precision bench gun. Of course, weight is your friend on the bench which is what I use mine for. Savage markets it as a long range precision varmint gun, and I’m sure it is, but I wouldn’t want to lug it any great distance, for sure. Comes in 7 and 9 twists. Mine’s in 7 so I can shoot heavier bullets.

 

[Thump_rrr]

Just be aware it weighs 1 million pounds. Multiple twist rates as well.

The funny part is most people who compete add weight to their rifles.

 

[Chickentoast]

The funny part is most people who compete add weight to their rifles.

And wear butt plugs to balance the weight.

 

[Holliday]

Attention to detail fail on my part. I was looking at the stock.

-Stan

No worries. Just wanted to clarify for others. AI made a chassis for the Savage for a short time.

I duracoated that one because I went with the thumbhole kit but could not get the right color. I loved that duracoat color.

 

[Aqua Mark]

Honestly, if you don't have a rifle, get a 22LR like a CZ457 or RAR. Fun to shoot, can share with anyone, and ammo is relatively inexpensive. Then save your dough and get a nice centerfire.

If you are stuck on a centerfire, you could get a 223 or 308 bolt gun for $1000, there are a couple Rem700 for sale on this site. I mention 223 and 308 (long barrel life) because of your budget, if you don't want to drop more cash on a barrel every year or two. And don't forget about decent quality ammo.

 

[ArmchairOperator]

For 1K nothing beats a Tikka T3X CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. Sub MOA out of the box with nothing needed and you can upgrade it however you want as you go. Best production action on the market, plenty of aftermarket support.

 

[JoeyAmmo]

A few weeks ago I was in your same position. I watched a lot of videos. I read some things and I decided to get a savage Axis II precision in 6.5 Creedmoor. It already comes in an MDT chassis. The bolt is not as slick as one would like, but it shoots .6 MOA with my initial handloads. There is no doubt as I develop the right load that’ll get under .5 MOA. Like you, I had the optic already. If you don’t reload, start. When I am ready I’ll upgrade.

 

[Turkeytider]

I’m beginning to wonder if there’s not much that a 6.5 Creedmoor round WON’T shoot sub-MOA through.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

I’m beginning to wonder if there’s not much that a 6.5 Creedmoor round WON’T shoot sub-MOA through.

The 6.5 seems to be something of a goto round.

But, I once owned an ultra lightweight hunting rifle from a top brand, not Weatherby, not Christensen, NOT EVEN REMINGTON, that maybe could have shot sub MOA. But it was so light that getting it to be steady, while shooting made shooting a group was impossible. I was thoroughly disgusted with it, so, my son kept it for three months giving it a try……well, the high dollar scope(for me then) sits on top of my Wonderful Weatherby Vanguard in .25-06 which does shoot MOA regularly, (and i might add takes down deer like a semi truck)

My next 6.5 Creedmoor, a Production MPA, one had to really make an effort to keep it from shooting 1 MOA at three hundred yards. (Which is 0.3 MOA at 100 yards; sucker was a laser). Finally wore out the barrel, replaced it with a 6GT, but my other GT outshoots it at long range so it is regulated to practice rifle.

 

[Turkeytider]

The 6.5 seems to be something of a goto round.

But, I once owned an ultra lightweight hunting rifle from a top brand, not Weatherby, not Christensen, NOT EVEN REMINGTON, that maybe could have shot sub MOA. But it was so light that getting it to be steady, while shooting made shooting a group was impossible. I was thoroughly disgusted with it, so, my son kept it for three months giving it a try……well, the high dollar scope(for me then) sits on top of my Wonderful Weatherby Vanguard in .25-06 which does shoot MOA regularly, (and i might add takes down deer like a semi truck)

My next 6.5 Creedmoor, a Production MPA, one had to really make an effort to keep it from shooting 1 MOA at three hundred yards. (Which is 0.3 MOA at 100 yards; sucker was a laser). Finally wore out the barrel, replaced it with a 6GT, but my other GT outshoots it at long range so it is regulated to practice rifle.

Since I don’t hand load, I’ll never really know how accurate my Tikka 6.5 truly is. As it is….it’s pretty damn accurate!

 

[hlee]

The 6.5 seems to be something of a goto round.

But, I once owned an ultra lightweight hunting rifle from a top brand, not Weatherby, not Christensen, NOT EVEN REMINGTON, that maybe could have shot sub MOA. But it was so light that getting it to be steady, while shooting made shooting a group was impossible. I was thoroughly disgusted with it, so, my son kept it for three months giving it a try……well, the high dollar scope(for me then) sits on top of my Wonderful Weatherby Vanguard in .25-06 which does shoot MOA regularly, (and i might add takes down deer like a semi truck)

My next 6.5 Creedmoor, a Production MPA, one had to really make an effort to keep it from shooting 1 MOA at three hundred yards. (Which is 0.3 MOA at 100 yards; sucker was a laser). Finally wore out the barrel, replaced it with a 6GT, but my other GT outshoots it at long range so it is regulated to practice rifle.

1 moa at 300 yards is 1 moa at 100 yards, is 1 moa at 1000 yards. MOA and mil radians are angular measurements. One moa is ~ 1.049 inches of dispersion per 100 yards of distance. A 1 moa group at 300 yards will measure roughly 3.1” in diameter. A 1 moa group at 100 yards will measure 1.049” in diameter. Both are 1 moa.

 

[Dead Eye Dick]

1 moa at 300 yards is 1 moa at 100 yards, is 1 moa at 1000 yards. MOA and mil radians are angular measurements. One moa is ~ 1.049 inches of dispersion per 100 yards of distance. A 1 moa group at 300 yards will measure roughly 3.1” in diameter. A 1 moa group at 100 yards will measure 1.049” in diameter. Both are 1 moa.

I see your point. The group average at 300 yards when I do my part was roughly 0.75 INCHES. Got it.