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I need opinions.

again not an expert on vortex OR moa for that matter but what it will boil down to is what ammo you are shooting and its MV. that will play into the dope being spit out by your ballistic calculator. if you are concerned, just take the mv listed on the box (which isn't perfect) and run it through your ballistic calculator. that will give you a ROUGH idea of how much moa you will need out past 200. then you can tweak from there

your zero is important but most guys who shoot rimfire prs style matches or shot out past 200 yards use a 50 yard zero. trust me with a 30 moa base you should be good to go. lots of good options for them out there


My concern is that with a 30 moa vase on a rifle with 32.5 moa of useable adjustments, 65 moa total adjustment, I won’t be able to get a 50 yard zero. Is this a valid concern?
 
My concern is that with a 30 moa vase on a rifle with 32.5 moa of useable adjustments, 65 moa total adjustment, I won’t be able to get a 50 yard zero. Is this a valid concern?

Your scope has 65 MOA of adjustment, with the 30 MOA base and Burris Sig. ZEE rings with inserts ( will get your an extra 20 moa for 30mm, rings 40 MOA for 1"), you should be able to get near the bottom of your's scopes adjustment. Then you could use the full 65 MOA.

Mark
 
Your scope has 65 MOA of adjustment, with the 30 MOA base and Burris Sig. ZEE rings with inserts ( will get your an extra 20 moa for 30mm, rings 40 MOA for 1"), you should be able to get near the bottom of your's scopes adjustment. Then you could use the full 65 MOA.

Mark

(y) what he said

I knew someone would be able to say it better than me. Thank you @MarkCZ
 
So by getting the scope to the bottom of its adjustment, i will get the most of the 65 moa. I totally understand that. My concern is that by leaving myself with so little adjustment, I will not be able to zero the scope at 50 yards. I know I can always hold over the remaining since the EBR-2c has 38 moa in the reticle. I just would rather dial and shoot as thats what I do with my razor on my main long gun.
 
Depending on "actual" mounting tolerances, you could end up not being able to get a 50Y zero with a 30 moa base, with standard rings, but if you use the Burris insert rings you should be able to find the sweet spot.

Nevertheless I wouldn't want any scope at the bottom most of it's travel when the scope is zeroed.

You should look into the Athlon Ares 4.5-27x50, it comes in moa or mil, and is a far superior scope than the old pst line in a lot of ways. Shop around, you can find them for less than MAP.

If you don't want moa then the Midas TAC series will save even more money. The TAC's are "THE" scope right now as far as bang for the buck of any on the market. So good in fact that if they were available in an all .2 reticle I'd both downgrade, and up grade, most of my other scopes to these!
 
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So by getting the scope to the bottom of its adjustment, i will get the most of the 65 moa. I totally understand that. My concern is that by leaving myself with so little adjustment, I will not be able to zero the scope at 50 yards. I know I can always hold over the remaining since the EBR-2c has 38 moa in the reticle. I just would rather dial and shoot as thats what I do with my razor on my main long gun.

You would use the inserts to get your 50yds zero and get as low as you can. I have one gun that the is all the way to the bottom and zero at 50yds. I have 40 MOA to go up. I have another that is zero at 50 yds and is 5MOA from the bottom, and I have 65 MOA to go up. I have a SWFA SS 20 X that is 20MOA from the bottom, but I have 90 MOA to go up, the scope has 110 moa total. With the inserts, you put what you think will work, check your zero at 50 yds . you may need more or less. Just get as much as you can.

Mark
 
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