Inconsistent seating depth. What’s my problem?

So exactly what is the problem with using ss?
My experience loading precision ammo says the same. I wet tumbled with stainless steel and had to lube necks to get consistent seating pressure. Velocities were never as consistent as they are now. I simply use a vibratory tumbler with medium grain sushi rice.

I have been able to load many sub .3 moa loads with lee dies on a Lee press with good components. Leaving a little carbon in the neck, bumping shoulders .002-.003 with a FL die, lubing cases for sizing with lanolin mix, and using quality components makes life pretty easy. I also anneal every 3 firings, but I mostly do that for the life of the brass. I'm not sure it matters for that ki d of accuracy as long as the cases have the same number of firings on them. I do drop charges on an autotrickler, but also had loads that shot very well before it was a thing.

Everyone tries to make reloading complicated and need to cost $20k. While all of that can make it more enjoyable, and is likely necessary to win in benchrest and f class at the highest levels, getting sub 1/2 moa accuracy at close and medium range is very simple.

A concentrically chambered barrel and a load put together with Lapua or petersen brass and berger bullet and the above methods will be the easy button to sub .5 moa loads. It likely won't shoot in the zeros, but most on here aren't after that kind of accuracy.

All the guys that are against wet tumbling with stainless media are saying, is that it undermines the efficiency and simplicity of achieving the above. When I tried it my loads performed noticeably worse. It wasn't horrible, but it was noticable. I could not figure it out until I went to a vibratory tumbler (I didn't tumble at all before that and also had good results).

It has been discussed to death. It is possible to achieve great loads with great accuracy while stainless tumbling. It just makes things unnecessarily difficult.
 
I dry tumbled for 15 years before I wet tumbled. When I went to wet stainless the only difficulty that manifested was hard seating after annealing. If I didn’t anneal then bullets seated fine though cold welding was somewhat of an issue when I tried to pull some rounds apart. But I stopped using std FL dies long before wet tumbling.

People don’t understand is how a standard FL die overworks a case neck and how that contributes to hard bullet seating despite neck tension being only .002”. It causes brass to spring back toward the inside of the neck. So even though neck tension is light, the direction of springback increases bullet seating effort.

Second, running an expander ball through a neck that was stainless tumbled causes galling unless you lube the neck first. A galled neck is hard to seat bullets into. So you have to lube the inside of the neck even if you have a carbide expander ball.

My favorite way to size a case is to use a Redding body die followed by a Lee collet neck die followed by a dip into graphite. I don’t have sizing issues. I don’t have seating issues. The process is simple and produces excellent results.
 
My firing schedule would never tolerate the kinds of processes that some of you recommend. I don't have time for brass to dry, and I certainly don't have time for 1 or 2 extra pulls of the press handle. Not without some very serious repetitive stress injuries forming. I'll sometimes shoot the same batch of 50-100 or so cases 2 or 3 times in a single day. I fired over 500 rounds this past week, and that was pretty normal week. Little above average... but still, that's a thousand pulls on the press and another 500 on the CPS. May not seem like much, but elbows and wrists can start to feel it after a while when its going on every single day a few hundred times a day.

Fire
Anneal
FL size/decap
Tumble in rice
Trim in giraud (every 5 or so firings depending on cartridge)
Prime
Powder - bullet. (bullet gets seated while Prometheus gets the next charge ready. No open cases, minimal powder handling)

That process is good enough for .0's, .1's, and .2's. Worst I usually see out of barrels that just really aren't up to it is .3's. Some barrels just won't shoot no matter what.

Sparkly clean brass is great for those picking up range brass that's all tarnished and terrible. It has no place in my every-day shooting. Waiting for that brass to dry might not be an issue if you live in a suburb and drive to the "range." If you're shooting every day, and quite a few rifles... it's a massive pain in the neck to deal with a wet process.
 
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I like things that are simple and work.
Dry tumbling works, simple.

Hornady dies are the only dies I have ever had a problem with more than once.

Simple, replace them and you do not have to spend for top shelf to get perfectly functional dies.