Introducing the AI Obsession Chassis

Makes sense, I've only handled an AI once and had no issue with it. I feel like I've seen a post somewhere that someone had done it and the axsr does it somehow. I was just curious. I'm hoping to buy or trade for an AT soon and put it in an obsession chassis.
Yes, there was a post/picture recently that showed a user that had gotten an AR grip tang bolted onto an AX-AICS R700 chassis. I went do that path some time ago, and came to the conclusion that a solution would have to be bolt-on in an area with very limited real estate, in addition to either permanently modifying or designing/manufacturing a custom new set of grip panels. Neither of which were solutions that I thought were worth the investment.

For what it's worth, my goal with all of my AI products was zero permanent modifications. Everything from the spigot, thumb rest, cheek piece, and even the Obsession chassis, can be un-installed and the gun restored to factory condition.

Thanks for your interest in the chassis, please let me know if you have any other questions or if/when you decide to order one!

Sam
 
Yes, there was a post/picture recently that showed a user that had gotten an AR grip tang bolted onto an AX-AICS R700 chassis. I went do that path some time ago, and came to the conclusion that a solution would have to be bolt-on in an area with very limited real estate, in addition to either permanently modifying or designing/manufacturing a custom new set of grip panels. Neither of which were solutions that I thought were worth the investment.

For what it's worth, my goal with all of my AI products was zero permanent modifications. Everything from the spigot, thumb rest, cheek piece, and even the Obsession chassis, can be un-installed and the gun restored to factory condition.

Thanks for your interest in the chassis, please let me know if you have any other questions or if/when you decide to order one!

Sam

As seen here: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/accuracy-international-replacement-grips.6986469/

Sam's advice about the small amount of material to hold a grip mounting block has dissuaded me from trying anything too brave on mine. Really, I would just like a smaller grip back instead of the SAG solution or an AR grip.
 
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As seen here: http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/accuracy-international-replacement-grips.6986469/

Sam's advice about the small amount of material to hold a grip mounting block has dissuaded me from trying anything to brave on mine. Really, I would just like a smaller grip back instead of the SAG solution or an AR grip.
I think it might have been easier to get to work on the AX-AICS chassis compared to the factory AT/AX because of the R700 trigger. The AI trigger being bolted "upward" into the action is what eats up so much space. Also, room is limited with the size of the tube that joins the buttstock and the action, as well as the size of the folding hinge itself.

I could dig up my sketches and ideas if anyone really wants to start going crazy. I went deep down the rabbit hole working on it and gave up. But I wouldn't say it's impossible, just not "clean" and not without chopping up some grip panels in the process.

I've had a smaller back grip panel in work (and on the backburner) for a while now. Let me look back and that and see where I left off. I wasn't sure what the market would be, and since I wear size L gloves, the factory back strap always worked well for me.
 
I think it might have been easier to get to work on the AX-AICS chassis compared to the factory AT/AX because of the R700 trigger. The AI trigger being bolted "upward" into the action is what eats up so much space. Also, room is limited with the size of the tube that joins the buttstock and the action, as well as the size of the folding hinge itself.

I could dig up my sketches and ideas if anyone really wants to start going crazy. I went deep down the rabbit hole working on it and gave up. But I wouldn't say it's impossible, just not "clean" and not without chopping up some grip panels in the process.

I've had a smaller back grip panel in work (and on the backburner) for a while now. Let me look back and that and see where I left off. I wasn't sure what the market would be, and since I wear size L gloves, the factory back strap always worked well for me.
You seen the aw Mkiii pics yet?
p1764446.jpg
 
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You seen the aw Mkiii pics yet?
View attachment 7252941
Yes, I've seen them. I looked over the ASR at SHOT Show last month.

The new generation is a completely different design architecture than the current gen. My assumption is the new generation of short action (AT?, AX? AC? lololol...no idea) would follow the same design.
- Non bonded chassis to action interface
- Non bonded buttstock
- 5 action screws; 4 in front, 1 in rear (current is 2 in front, 2 in rear)
- Similar design with 2 vertical bolts to attach trigger pack, but ASR trigger is not interchangeable with AT/AX
- Since the chassis isn't bonded, they can incorporate the AR grip tang (rotated backwards 10°)

This was a picture from @NoLegs24 's ASR
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@BLKWLFK9 doing work on a barricade stage at the Frontline Fury PRS match. If you haven’t checked it out yet, go to Podbean and check out his podcast “Just Fn Sent It” for some great commentary and insight into precision rifle shooting and other topics. I’m planning on doing an interview at some point to discuss all things AI and match shooting.

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Nice !! Buying that but stock hurts . Is it just me or did those go up in price The AX but stock conversion is what has kept me from getting one of The ao chassis I’ll probably still end up with one just dragging my feet
 
Nice !! Buying that but stock hurts . Is it just me or did those go up in price The AX but stock conversion is what has kept me from getting one of The ao chassis I’ll probably still end up with one just dragging my feet
The setup I have now is from a debonded factory AX, so I used that buttstock. I don't know if they've gone up in price though. EuroOptic is about $100 cheaper than Mile High, but that's because Mile High has the installation price built in. If you tell them you're doing it yourself, they'll discount the price.

I hear you on it being expensive though...honestly, the AT buttstock will do just about everything the AX buttstock does. I don't think the chassis will be any worse off with the AT back end, plus if down the road you still want to upgrade it's a small task to de-bond the buttstock and put the AX back end on.
 
Those are interesting for sure. I’ll wait to see how they preform across a couple different peoples barrels, and how the impact signature is on steel compared to jacketed bullets. I think @BLKWLFK9 has some in hand, I’m sure he’ll let everyone know how they work for him. I also only have a 7.25 twist barrel, but that shouldn’t be a big deal in Summer weather.
 
I have the 95s. They shoot great in a 7.5t dasher here at sea level. The 100s are meant for a 7t but would probably work in a 7.25 at elevation.
 
What brass you using in GT?
Alpha. Definitely saw some pressure signs and lower velocity than expected. My AX gets ejector "shine" on pretty much all brass, including mild 6.5x47L Lapua brass, so I'm not concerned about that. I didn't get any swipes. But I did get cratering and primer flow at 34.5gr Varget and up. Primers weren't flattened though.

I shoot a 24" barrel so I expect about 50fps slower than everyone else. With the 110 A-Tips I was only at 2855fps at 34.1gr Varget, then started seeing pressure. 35.0gr at 2920fps was the high node, but the primers looked terrible and that was only at 35F outside.

My next step is to seat them further off the lands than the 0.010" I was doing, most guys are saying 0.030" for the A-Tips, possibly more. I'm at 150 rounds now so I think I can do a bit more refined load development. I don't expect the barrel to speed up much more but we'll see.

I ran my 6.5x47L w/140 Hybrids at 2700fps for the past 4 years, so I'm not a speed chaser. Low node all day. So if I can run the 110s at 2850fps with no pressure and in the middle of a fat node, I'll be good with that. I shoot 100% suppressed for matches so I'm willing to give up a little velocity for the shorter barrel length. The reason I'm willing to try the A-Tips is at 2850fps they shoot the same or inside of my 6.5x47L, with 30% less recoil. And it shoots about the same as a Dasher w/105s at 2950fps, which I'm not willing to futz with out of the AI action.
 
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Alpha. Definitely saw some pressure signs and lower velocity than expected. My AX gets ejector "shine" on pretty much all brass, including mild 6.5x47L Lapua brass, so I'm not concerned about that. I didn't get any swipes. But I did get cratering and primer flow at 34.5gr Varget and up. Primers weren't flattened though.

I shoot a 24" barrel so I expect about 50fps slower than everyone else. With the 110 A-Tips I was only at 2855fps at 34.1gr Varget, then started seeing pressure. 35.0gr at 2920fps was the high node, but the primers looked terrible and that was only at 35F outside.

My next step is to seat them further off the lands than the 0.010" I was doing, most guys are saying 0.030" for the A-Tips, possibly more. I'm at 150 rounds now so I think I can do a bit more refined load development. I don't expect the barrel to speed up much more but we'll see.

I ran my 6.5x47L w/140 Hybrids at 2700fps for the past 4 years, so I'm not a speed chaser. Low node all day. So if I can run the 110s at 2850fps with no pressure and in the middle of a fat node, I'll be good with that. I shoot 100% suppressed for matches so I'm willing to give up a little velocity for the shorter barrel length. The reason I'm willing to try the A-Tips is at 2850fps they shoot the same or inside of my 6.5x47L, with 30% less recoil. And it shoots about the same as a Dasher w/105s at 2950fps, which I'm not willing to futz with out of the AI action.

I’ve had to shelf my gt barrels as “works in progress” and go to 6x47 and 6br as main comp barrels.

I was having extraction issues with alpha even with 31.8 varget. Need to see if backing way off the lands helps. Was at .020
 
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I’ve had to shelf my gt barrels as “works in progress” and go to 6x47 and 6br as main comp barrels.

I was having extraction issues with alpha even with 31.8 varget. Need to see if backing way off the lands helps. Was at .020
No issues on my end with clickers or extracting, even up to 35.0gr Varget. I'd like to be at 2900fps with 110s, but running the numbers there's almost zero wind difference out to 1000yds at 2850fps.

I'm using a JGS reamer, normal GAP-spec dimensions. Alpha brass just mandreled, trim/chamfered, and dry tumbled prior to loading.

Will you try Peterson 6x47L brass? I'm interested to hear how people like their stuff. I have no desire to size Lapua brass down and possibly deal with those issues or donuts. If I were to bail I'd go back to 6.5x47L like I always do haha.
 
No issues on my end with clickers or extracting, even up to 35.0gr Varget. I'd like to be at 2900fps with 110s, but running the numbers there's almost zero wind difference out to 1000yds at 2850fps.

I'm using a JGS reamer, normal GAP-spec dimensions. Alpha brass just mandreled, trim/chamfered, and dry tumbled prior to loading.

Will you try Peterson 6x47L brass? I'm interested to hear how people like their stuff. I have no desire to size Lapua brass down and possibly deal with those issues or donuts. If I were to bail I'd go back to 6.5x47L like I always do haha.

I’ll probably give Peterson a try at some point. Currently my process is:

.271 bushing
.268 bushing

Two step process to step the necks down.

Then I mandrel and neck turn (electric turning lathe)

So, I shouldn’t have a problem with donuts. I’m also upgrading to an IDOD neck turner which turns the inside AND outside of neck and is ridiculously fast.
 
I’ll probably give Peterson a try at some point. Currently my process is:

.271 bushing
.268 bushing

Two step process to step the necks down.

Then I mandrel and neck turn (electric turning lathe)

So, I shouldn’t have a problem with donuts. I’m also upgrading to an IDOD neck turner which turns the inside AND outside of neck and is ridiculously fast.
Life, jobs, family, etc have moved me towards as minimal of brass processing as possible. Just can't bring myself to neck turn anymore, especially because I like large lots of brass and don't want to be "that guy" chicken pecking for one piece of brass in the weeds after a stage is over. If Peterson brass was even close to Lapua I'd go that route for 6x47L if that was what I wanted to try. But right now at least I'm pretty confident I can make 6GT work, even if it's not with laser speeds.
 
For those folks reaching pressure using Varget in the low 2900's, I'm curious if using a slower powder might help. I'm very surprised that Varget is considered "the" powder for GT. It's max pressure isn't anywhere near 95% case capacity. H4350 seems perfect with a load at 98/99% capacity being just under pressure. I'm pushing 107SMKs at 3030 using 38gr of H4350 in Alpha brass and 3020 using 38gr in Hornady brass. This is the initial lot of Hornady which Aztec'd the same code as Alpha. By comparison I tried 34gr Varget after 100rds on the barrel and was immediately at high pressure with the first load in the ladder. Think the velocity was mid to low 2900's
That would be unfortunate, as the 6GT was touted as being perfect for Varget. It’s between Dasher and 6/6.5x47L, which both do great with Varget, so I’m confused as to why the GT wouldn’t work.

I also recently sold my unused stash of H4350 and bought more Varget, so I’m pretty set on using that for the time being.
 
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I'm not saying it "won't work" I'm doubting that it's optimum, as touted. For all the reasons I stated. And some may be seeing. ? IDK...food for thought...

I agree. I think a lot of things will be changing over time once gt has been out a while.

At the moment, a lot of the predicted stuff isn’t what it seems it was going to be. Which is fine. Just unfortunate when some bought it for the initial described purpose.
 
I have a badger 2013, I also have access to a machine shop would it be possible to adapt this to one of those? I love the ax buttstock and would love to be able to keep it if I can.
 
I have a badger 2013, I also have access to a machine shop would it be possible to adapt this to one of those? I love the ax buttstock and would love to be able to keep it if I can.
I honestly have no idea how close a Badger 2013 is to a factory AI action. I would need lots of dimensions, and even then to get a one-off chassis made in the production run would likely be an expensive detour.

This company offers it for an AICS chassis, which unfortunately is different from mine. I wanted to see what it would take to modify mine for an R700 inlet, but never got my hands on an AT-AICS chassis to do so.

http://www.riversbendguncompany.com...x-chassis-for-badger-ordnance-20082013-action
 
Im the engineer in our toolroom; I wasnt expecting you to do the legwork, especially in the middle of a production run haha. And they were actually the guys who built mine and inletted a Rem700 SA AICS chassis for me. I can send you a drawing or a CAD file on Monday when I get in and can use our CMM. The Badger is flat bottomed with two recoil lugs.
 
SAM!!
KUDOS to you.
There are many assets and features that I certainly appreciate tat you have included into this amazing stock.
Aluminum can be quite easy to work with, the rigidity allows what ever clearance you might desire, even .001" clearance is clearance and greater than .05" can be strategic for weight reduction. EXCELLENT work!!

Okay, I have been building a home shop for the last 20 + years mainly to reconstruct vintage aircraft parts, and to CNC machine custom gun stocks. One aspect that I have studied, and have some manufacturing ideas about is hollow thin sided but strong carbon fiber using a flexible gas envelope for curing, and a good working mold.
Proprietary has a great weight. Once a patent gets applied, the info is out there, any scammers can copy. This is sad and frustrating (I have 3 valuable patents that can evaporate by China), so I highly respect the originator.
Do you have anyone in mind to fab a metal stock?

B-29 guy
 
SAM!!
KUDOS to you.
There are many assets and features that I certainly appreciate tat you have included into this amazing stock.
Aluminum can be quite easy to work with, the rigidity allows what ever clearance you might desire, even .001" clearance is clearance and greater than .05" can be strategic for weight reduction. EXCELLENT work!!

Okay, I have been building a home shop for the last 20 + years mainly to reconstruct vintage aircraft parts, and to CNC machine custom gun stocks. One aspect that I have studied, and have some manufacturing ideas about is hollow thin sided but strong carbon fiber using a flexible gas envelope for curing, and a good working mold.
Proprietary has a great weight. Once a patent gets applied, the info is out there, any scammers can copy. This is sad and frustrating (I have 3 valuable patents that can evaporate by China), so I highly respect the originator.
Do you have anyone in mind to fab a metal stock?

B-29 guy
Thanks for the kind words! I wish I had my own shop to work on projects like this, it would've saved me a lot of money on prototyping. And probably been a lot faster, too!

I have a machine shop that made the prototypes and are going to be machining the production chassis in the next two weeks, so I'm set there. But I have some other ideas for more projects down the road, so it's always good to have options :)

Carbon fiber is an interesting idea, one I've thought of before but don't know enough about to have seriously pursued it. Plus it's generally more expensive, at least from what I know of aluminum vs carbon fiber bicycle frames. I think there could be some cool things done with CF, but for a competition oriented chassis like this, there isn't much benefit for going super light then adding 4# of steel weights to it haha
 
What’s the cheapest route for this chassis?

buying an AT, Obsession, and an AX buttstock?

also, to the OP, has it been discussed about making the Obsession compatible with a MTD ACC foldable buttstock?
 
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What’s the cheapest route for this chassis?

buying an AT, Obsession, and an AX buttstock?

also, to the OP, has it been discussed about making the Obsession compatible with a MTD ACC foldable buttstock?
As others have said, a used fixed AT + AX buttstock would be your cheapest way into a full build with the Obsession Chassis.

I have thought about the ACC buttstock. It might be possible to get it to work with some sort of adapter, but I haven't looked too far into it. I have tons of AI chassis sitting around, but no ACC in hand, so I haven't been able to put them together to see if it would work.
 
As others have said, a used fixed AT + AX buttstock would be your cheapest way into a full build with the Obsession Chassis.

I have thought about the ACC buttstock. It might be possible to get it to work with some sort of adapter, but I haven't looked too far into it. I have tons of AI chassis sitting around, but no ACC in hand, so I haven't been able to put them together to see if it would work.

if I wasn’t stuck in Afghanistan and it was a project you could take on, I’d send you one.

I’m still up in the air if I was to take on a build like this. Especially since this economy is a little shaky right now.

it’s an awesome looking chassis.

is the internal forend weight removable without removing the action?
 
if I wasn’t stuck in Afghanistan and it was a project you could take on, I’d send you one.

I’m still up in the air if I was to take on a build like this. Especially since this economy is a little shaky right now.

it’s an awesome looking chassis.

is the internal forend weight removable without removing the action?
The action is designed to be re-bonded to the chassis, same as AWs, ATs, and AXs come from the factory, so it will not be removable.

The internal forend weight will only require the barrel to be removed in order to install or remove. The chassis kit will come with a 1-piece weight that weighs 2.0# and spans the entire length of the forend. It will also come with a 1.0# weight that is half the length, so you can tune the balance by moving it front to back in the forend.

I've also redesigned the NV bridge from the prototype design by mounting it into the top of the chassis rather than the sides. This allows the ability to reposition or remove/install the NV bridge without having to remove side M-Lok weights or accessories.
 
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A major design flaw that you may or may not have noticed is that the bolt handle and ejection port are on the wrong side. Other than that, it looks pretty good.
Haha, tell me about it. I'm right-handed but left eye dominant, so that's basically the worst of both worlds.

Thankfully the chassis is ambidextrous so all you "normal" RH shooters don't have to worry ;)
 
Haha, tell me about it. I'm right-handed but left eye dominant, so that's basically the worst of both worlds.

Thankfully the chassis is ambidextrous so all you "normal" RH shooters don't have to worry ;)
I'm also left eye dominant, but I feel that shooting left handed is un-American. So I force my Communist eyeballs to just get over it lol.

That's really impressive that you can shoot lefty though. My left hand is practically useless to me, it never really knows what's going on haha.
 
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