Issues with chambering and ejecting

Blushin

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Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 21, 2014
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Bethany Beach, DE
Hey guys.

So I have a brand new never fired rem700 AAC-SD .308 s/a 20". I sent the bolt out to have pcr install one of their knobs and it looks amazing. So tonight I decided I wanted to load the mag and just cycle the rifle to see how everything felt, mind you not firing the rifle. Only chambering and ejecting a few rounds to make sure everything was working smoothly...it's not. The gun is new. Not a single shot has been put down it since It was purchased. Here are the issues. Rounds go perfectly into the box mag. Now when you try to chamber a round quickly it feels almost as if the round is getting hung up on something But if u do it slowly. They chamber fine. Ok all is good. Now they eject good and all. Not super strong. But what you would expect from a stock remington. Now checking out the round after ejection. I notice two gouges the length if the case. Same spot on all rounds. Now I'm not some well versed rifleman but this doesn't seem right. Anyone have any ideas on what's going on?

Thanks
Phill
 
Have you cleaned it since you got it? Often there is some protective gunk in the chamber/barrel left at the factory as a protectant.

The gouges are likely from the bolt passing over next round in the magazine,scratching the case as the bolt goes by. Resistance caused by the "gunk" will exacerbate this.

Give it a good cleaning, especially the chamber and then cycle the bolt a bunch without any rounds in the gun and everything will smooth out.
 
So I pulled the action from the stock. Wiped down the chamber and cleaned everything up. Made sure there weren't any burs on the mag box Everything else looked good as far as I could tell so I put it back together and bolt was sliding smoothly. Put a single round in and slid it in slowly and gently and it came out clean. Put 4 in the mag and racked it as if you were shooting four quick shots and not only did it have issues with getting the rounds into the chamber but they all came out gouged. When you try to slide the bolt forward quickly it seems as though the rounds are getting pushed up and getting hung up around the neck, let off and slide the bolt back and the round falls into place and slides not the chamber.

I know this is my first bolt action rifle build but something just isn't right. And the rounds should chamber much easier than they do


All help is much appreciated
Phill
 
here one case
IMG_2915.jpg
 
I used a fine 900 grit stone and addressed the ramp that is machined in the action. As the casing is fed up into the chamber it slides across and along these sharp edges left from the machining process. I would estimate I polished a .010" radius to this edge and it solved the same problem you just posted. Take little steps since you can always remove more if needed. Hope this helps.
 
So I took it to my local shop and had a buddy look at it. He cycled it and of course it didn't do anything. So I may have just been the way I was putting pressure on the bolt. It does still scrape the cases though and maybe that will go away as the rifle gets broken in
 
Take the barreled action out of the stock and run your finger along the bottom of the action where the rounds feed through it. You may have some sharp areas or burrs on this area. It's the bottom side of the bolt way where the magazine box is seated in the action. You might benefit from some 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper on the sharp edges. As you rapidly chamber the round, the top of the cartridge at bullet and shoulder are in contact with the top of the chamber and are putting upward pressure at the case head end of the cartridge. Couple this with the resistance to sliding across a new bolt face and you can get these parallel scratches.

I like to lightly break all sharp edges where the cartridges slide in order to prevent this. As rifles are shot the sharp edges like this tend to just wear naturally and the problem goes away in time. The fine sandpaper is just a form of "controlled wear", As for the feed ramp area, a cotton "bob" on a dremel with Flitz metal polish never hurts. All my handguns have feed ramps that are mirror finished. Haven't gotten around to doing that on my rifles yet. To busy shooting 'em. :)
 
a buddy of mine had the same exact problem. he was PISSED! he brought it over, we put my 5R bolt, not a problem at all.

he sent the rifle to remington, they replaced the extractor. when it came back, he brought it over and all was good. then he asked if i wanted to buy it for $500. yes, yes i do! i have since cut it to 16" and put 200 rounds thru it.

do you have access to another 308 bolt?
 

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This is my first post because I don't know as much as everyone here, so I hope this helps. My 700 did the same thing and I took the internal magazine out and bent the lips at the top that hold the shell, just a little bit further apart so they didn't hold the case so tight and then polished them on the wire wheel and it feed perfect.
 
a buddy of mine had the same exact problem. he was PISSED! he brought it over, we put my 5R bolt, not a problem at all.

he sent the rifle to remington, they replaced the extractor. when it came back, he brought it over and all was good. then he asked if i wanted to buy it for $500. yes, yes i do! i have since cut it to 16" and put 200 rounds thru it.

do you have access to another 308 bolt?

interesting, i dont think there is anything wrong with the extractor. not sure what it is but i think i just need to run some rounds through it and see what happens, eventually i will be putting the new stock on and the surgeon bottom metal so im sure that will clear any issues up
 
This is my first post because I don't know as much as everyone here, so I hope this helps. My 700 did the same thing and I took the internal magazine out and bent the lips at the top that hold the shell, just a little bit further apart so they didn't hold the case so tight and then polished them on the wire wheel and it feed perfect.

the only issue i had when feeding mine was the shitty OEM stock and bottom plastic. i don't think it qualifies to be called bottom metal. feeding out of my HS with the DBM has been fine.

maybe that's what i need to do when i drop it back into that stock for hunting.

thanks, and welcome to SH.
 
interesting, i dont think there is anything wrong with the extractor. not sure what it is but i think i just need to run some rounds through it and see what happens, eventually i will be putting the new stock on and the surgeon bottom metal so im sure that will clear any issues up

i am not a gunsmith, but your symptoms are the same as his were.

do you have access to another 308 bolt? if not, i can send you mine, try it out, but you gotta send it back! lol
 
Follow up for the OP:
I decided to re-check mine after I cleaned the sharp edges the first time. I was still getting some marks as you can see in the picture of the cases to the right. These were just run after the first light polish and was much better than to initial scratches with 381 rounds down the tube. I pulled the action off and took a little more off the edges of the feed ramp. Ran 5 rounds through (loaded in the internal magazine) and the cases to the left are the result. I also noticed the action is much smoother when chambering the rounds.
 

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I have a 700 Tactical (.223) that fed like crap using the regular blind box magazine. It would feed OK but was far from smooth and effortless.
I replaced the factory trigger guard and box with PTG bottom metal and AI mags and its a night & day difference in feeding. No more scratched brass or excessive force needed for feeding & chambering. My factory feed rails were not very smooth and the geometry is different than the AI mags. Remington gets you close......





 
Follow up for the OP:
I decided to re-check mine after I cleaned the sharp edges the first time. I was still getting some marks as you can see in the picture of the cases to the right. These were just run after the first light polish and was much better than to initial scratches with 381 rounds down the tube. I pulled the action off and took a little more off the edges of the feed ramp. Ran 5 rounds through (loaded in the internal magazine) and the cases to the left are the result. I also noticed the action is much smoother when chambering the rounds.


You're almost there. Removing the sharp edges and machining burr's will definitely make the "feed" feel better.

Unless you're buying a high end factory rifle or a Custom, almost all "out of the box" rifles need a little "Fluff and Buff".

It's amazing how much you can change the personality of a rifle with the application of some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on sharp edges and some "Flitz" on surfaces that are supposed to be smooth.

Most rifles will eventually wear down these edges, hence the term "Break-In". I prefer to just take some extra time "smoothing and polishing".
 
Follow up for the OP:
I decided to re-check mine after I cleaned the sharp edges the first time. I was still getting some marks as you can see in the picture of the cases to the right. These were just run after the first light polish and was much better than to initial scratches with 381 rounds down the tube. I pulled the action off and took a little more off the edges of the feed ramp. Ran 5 rounds through (loaded in the internal magazine) and the cases to the left are the result. I also noticed the action is much smoother when chambering the rounds.

thanks for the follow up, that definitely helps with my situation, the rounds on the right in your picture are how mine look right now, ill definitely have to take a look at all my surfaces
 
You're almost there. Removing the sharp edges and machining burr's will definitely make the "feed" feel better.

Unless you're buying a high end factory rifle or a Custom, almost all "out of the box" rifles need a little "Fluff and Buff".

It's amazing how much you can change the personality of a rifle with the application of some 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper on sharp edges and some "Flitz" on surfaces that are supposed to be smooth.

Most rifles will eventually wear down these edges, hence the term "Break-In". I prefer to just take some extra time "smoothing and polishing".

thanks for the help guys, would you all mind explaining how exactly you go about sanding/polishing, im all about doing stuff on my own but just want to make sure im not going to fudge things up royaly.

thanks
phill