Good info - thanks.
Hi Guys, this is Matt from Stalking Rhino Ind.
Thanks to the Hide member that emailed me about this thread.
I have read the board for years but joined today. I look forward to being able to help you guys out and answer any questions you may have.
Here are responses from this thread, will try to cover everything mentioned.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While doing an online search for cleaning a sealed .22 suppressor, I happened to find a company that provides a service that looks interesting. SRI or "Stalking Rino Industries" will take your sealed can and convert it to a serviceable unit and clean it............</div></div>
We do not remove both ends of the suppressor unless its absolutely necessary and discussed with the customer prior to moving forward.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there any reason you wouldn't send it back to AAC to have them clean your can out? </div></div>
AAC will not clean your can the last time I checked, this may have changed, and if they did clean it it would be returned sealed up again only to die a slow and loud death.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ORD</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd be interested in knowing precisely how they are doing what they are doing, including all necessary modifications to the suppressor's outer tube and internals before getting too far into the process. With what they are offering, you could very easily run afoul of the NFA rules as interpreted by the BATF with respect to modification of the outer tube, change in dimensions of the suppressor, etc., etc.
I would hope that they'd be aware of and complying with those rulings, but with the potential legal ramifications, I'd damn sure be getting a more detailed description of everything that will be done to one of my cans before proceeding with any modifications. </div></div>
You are incorrect, there is no "easy way to run afoul" with BATFE rules or regulations with what we do. We are a licensed nfa manufacturer(FFL07/02SOT) we follow the rules to a "T" and we are 100% aware of the potential legal issues that there may be. We keep a pulse with the ATF about those issues to ensure they don't become a problem, and we stay well within all parameters and have field questions from the BATFE from time to time. The ATF agrees that we are not doing anything remotely illegal, or even remotely grey area for that matter. We are not modifying the suppressors as far as the ATF is concerned. The dimensions of the suppressor do not change. Only on a few models is there a slight modification done to the last baffle to allow for our user serviceable endcap. If anyone ever has a question about the legalities they can give me a call and we can discuss it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: In2b8u</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Their menu of cans that are accepted for jailbreaking are limited.</div></div>
We can jailbreak most rimfire and centerfire pistol can. There are a few limitations based on the original manufacturer's designs(primarily those that weld their pistol cans like AWC). The list on my website is a reference of most of the popular cans we jailbreak. As the website says if you don't see it ask, good chance that we have done one. We do get new ones in all the time, just no sense on having a mile long list of obscure local town mfg or defunct out of business cans.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Charger442</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So does this automatically void your manufacturer warranty? I would think that it would </div></div>
We get this question daily. Technically it does void the warranty, however we have had 90% of the manufacturer retain their warranties after we did the work. In fact most manufacturers recommend/refer their customers to us for the conversion. We recently had a manufacturer deal with a warranty issue and they still honored the full warranty. The suppressor was returned to its owner with a non-serviceable endcap and we jailbroke again at no charge. Afterall our customer paid for a serviceable can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Have you tried cleaning your can yourself? You can use hydrogen peroxide and plug one end and let it soak. Do this several times letting it soak for 2 hours or so each time. Why do you feel that your can needs cleaning? Are you having problems with it? I have over 6000 rounds through one of my cans and have yet to clean it. It continues to function as expected as it did the day I got it. </div></div>
We have had only 1 customer come back and say it didn't sound any quieter than it was before. Most customers are amazed and didn't realize how loud it had gotten over the years of shooting their can.
The OP's can is an AAC Pilot, it is an aluminum tube along with all aluminum internals. Below is a picture of what we found inside an aluminum 9mm can that the user dipped over a period of a year time before he found our service. This was the blast spacer on that can. This spacer was anodized aluminum, we polished the rim to get rid of the sharp edge so we can use it for demo purposes. We replaced the damaged spacer with a titanium spacer.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Layton</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hammertime</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> bead blast the internals and reassemble it. </div></div>
Wouldn't this roughen the surfaces making them more prone to build up?
L </div></div>
We don't "bead blast" the internals in general, we use walnut and remove as much buildup as possible. We bead blast the steel baffles and the non anodized baffles prior to anodizing. Anything beyond that is discussed with the customer prior to performing it. No, the bead blast does not promote buildup and we do check with customers overtime to see if there are any issues, none reported.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Zak Smith</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Strongly recommend following RTO's advice. </div></div>
On what basis? The hydrogen peroxide/white vinegar mix eats aluminum as seen in the picture above, when mixed with rimfire residue creates lead acetate, a hazmat disposed material. I know most cans have blowback, I am sure shooters don't want to be ingesting skin permeable lead. Heavy metal poisoning is not a fun experience.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RTO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Agreed 346 .22 cans need to be cleaned regularly. I misread the post and was referring to center fire cans which I have yet to see a need to clean.
.22 cans need to be cleaned regularly.
I have had good results cleaning my own .22 cans that do not come apart. </div></div>
Centerfire pistol cans need to be cleaned as well, just not as often as rimfire. You can shoot 2 to 3 times as many centerifre pistol rounds without cleaning it compared to the .22lr
Here are a few pictures of centerfire pistol cans we jailbroke.
To say that centerfire pistol cans don't need to be cleaned is just repeating the manufacturers claims from the past decades, yet they are all starting to make user serviceable cans. Either they are finally admitting to a need to clean pistol cans or they are succumbing to peer pressure.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DFOOSKING</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just straight hydrogen peroxide?
This different than "the dip"?
This is the first time I've heard of straight H.P.
You don't need to clean every 1500 rounds...but I'd say 3K would be wise. I've got over 10K in my Aviator...it has seen Kroil and that's it. My can is half a quiet as new but still is quiet...just nowhere near what it was. In the last year I've noticed FRP is alot more common.
Sealed can suck </div></div>
The dip is 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and 50% White Vinegar. If your can is aluminum you do not want to do that as the mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar eats aluminum.
I have not noticed many negative effects with using straight HP. It seems benign alone. I wouldn't recommend it until there is long term testing of it just in case.
Kroil does nothing to limit or remove the buildup inside a sealed silencer. What it does it loosens the material that has not fully bonded to the baffles or walls or other buildup. As soon as you shoot it again and the can is not bone dry it now promotes buildup in those wet areas. Think about it like 10 steps of buildup forward and 1 step of cleanup back.
You can get your Aviator jailbroken, or at least checked out to see if its viable or not. That's alot of rounds to be fighting through to extract the core without damaging the tube or the baffles.
There is a reason why before GemTax that manufacturers would just crush the can, serialize a new tube with your serial and ship it back.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Red_SC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Liberty has been providing this service for several years, I've never heard of any problems from customers. </div></div>
Yes, Dave used to offer this service. In the last 8 or 9 months Dave highly recommends us to his customers for any jailbreaking needs as well as recores. He stopped providing the jailbreaking service so he can focus on his product line.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Twisted .308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Talked to Matt ...They will NOT do Certerfire Rifle Cans ! Bummer </div></div>
No unfortunately we do not jailbreak rifle cans. There is not enough buildup to make it a concern and the risk is too high. There are too many things that could go wrong with a non factory designed user serviceable rifle can.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 346ci</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yup, going to buy a contained soda blaster soon, my can is a PITA to clean... </div></div>
The soda blaster will only clean the areas it can get to under pressure, you won't get behind or under the baffles or very far off axis with that, just a ton of white dust. Be careful as well as soda blasting can and will remove anodizing and damage the tube and baffles if held in one place too long. it kills grass as well so don't do it in the yard.
SanMan is one of the many customers we have done work on their cans and have referenced or are members on the Hide. I am sure others will chime in with their experience.
As anyone that has already spoken with me will tell you, I am a pretty approachable guy and always open for a chat. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
This turned out longer than I expected, thanks to all that stuck it out and read the whole thing! I hope this helped to get a little more information out there and clear up concerns or questions you guys have expressed.
