JP LRP-07 6.5CM, lots of questions

[cactusbrew]

Alright, I have read every topic I can on the rifle and caliber, now I am hoping to condense some questions into one topic, for not only myself, but other semi auto guys who might be contemplating the LRP-07 and 6.5CM.

I am about ready to order an LRP-07 for long range shooting, varmint hunting, and some sniper style competitions. In an attempt to focus on weight, while also maintaining purpose, I am curious what buttstock you chose and why? By focusing on weight, I am pretty much eliminating the Magpul PRS and focusing on the ACE and the Tactical Intent carbine stock. Does anyone have experience with the Tactical Intent? Is it solid, does it provide a solid cheek weld for long range shooting, etc? Or should I eat the extra 1.3 lbs and get the PRS.

Weight of the rifle? What does your rifle weigh with specific buttstock/features, etc minus optic and rings?

Speaking of rings, does anyone run the JP 1 piece flat top mount? If so, whats your thoughts on this setup.

When it comes to reloading for this cartridge, are you guys running the Redding Type S bushing full length die with competition seater (with VLD stem) or something else? If you are running a full length bushing die, are you using the .288 bushing with Hornady brass?

Speaking of brass. Is Hornady the way to go or is Nosler brass worth almost double the price? I am having a hard time believing it is but you never know.

When it comes to powder, I know 4350 is the go to. Is there much difference between H4350, AA4350, and IMR 4350? As everyone knows, its damn hard to find powder, so thoughts on this?

Projectiles. Damn they are hard to find in stock for 6.5mm. There seems to be a liking for Amax, Lapua, and Bergers in the 130s to 140 grainers.

Anything else I should know as I transition into a new caliber?

Thanks again everyone!

 

[FALex]

I'd love to answer your questions, but my LRP is .260. Not a huge difference, so I will address what I can. I don't know the weight of my rifle bare, but I can tell you, that with a Bushnell XRS on top of it, it feels like an M4 when comparing it to a DPMS or an Armalite in the AR-10 platform.

Moving right along, the 4350 is a great powder for the CM too. My LRP shoots 139gr Scenars very well. I'd try some loads with the Hornady brass. In fact, I thought the only reason you'd get a CM over a .260 is due to the availability of cheaper, quality Hornady match ammo? There are some differences in the burn rate of the various 4350's; temperature sensibility is another factor to think about.

Most 6/6.5 shooters run H4350. It just shoots too good to argue, though I know some folks having great success with the IMR. I have some of the AA, but I did not find it to be as temp stable as the H4350.

I have a Badger Ordnance 20 moa unimount 34mm. It was the lowest mount my friend could find (and he knows a ton about this stuff, trust me), and it still allows the optic to clear the handguard while maintaining a good cheek weld, sans an adjustable cheek piece. On that note, I assumed I'd need the PRS, but the ACE is great (I honestly thought I would not like it just on looks alone...big mistake, give it a chance, there's a reason JP uses them).

I do not use the Redding dies. I have found that my RCBS FL die works just fine. JP recommends a small base die, and I used the Redding, but it does not touch the necks. I have since ran several rounds that were just through the RCBS FL die, and they have been flawless. The small base basically guarantees the rounds will chamber/extract in an auto-loader which is why JP recommends them.

Components are slowly coming back, though I am still missing my cheap RP brass!! I'd try whatever you can afford. If you can afford the Scenars, I'd roll with them. There is another several different blogs regarding whether VLD's are jump sensitive or not. Many folks say they are, some say they are shooting great with a jump. That's the fun with reloading, right? Sometimes a chore, but things could be much worse!

I think you have chosen a damn great rifle. I did not think I would like it as much as I do (I always considered myself a bolt action guy, but the LRP has definitely changed that). I love my LRP so much that I ordered a JP-15 a little while ago.

The comp trigger in the LRP is the best AR trigger I have squeezed thus far, so make sure you add that bad boy to your order.

Keep us posted on how it shoots.

 

[cactusbrew]

I have debated the 260 vs 6.5CM thing now for months. After lots of internet searches, I found most people leaned to the 6.5CM for semi auto platforms just because the 260 needs to be seated long to get the most out of it. Truthfully though, I wonder in a semi auto platform if it really matters at all, since they are almost identical.

I am glad to hear you like your Ace stock. At 10ish ounces, its hard to beat. I think I will probably go with the Ace in the long run.

Thanks again for a detailed response, I definitely appreciate it.

 

[WTW]

I have the ace stock on my LRP-07 in 260. I am running a Vortex razor in a ADM recon mount and I cannot get a consistent cheek weld with it. I have had to install a stock pack. I have seen the TACMOD AR stock and it is extremely light compared to a PRS, just have not had the chance to pick one up and try it out yet.

 

[cactusbrew]

I like the looks of the TACMOD but a quick google search says it weighs 29.2 ozs wheras the PRS weighs in at 30.4 oz for entire buttstock with tube, etc.

Im not so sure there is much of a difference at all but i really like how adjustable the tacmod with tilt, etc.

 

[Kiba]

Another option for a lightweight stock with the LRP07 would be to use a CTR and then add one of the snap on cheek risers that Magpul makes to adjust your cheekweld. While the CTR cheek risers won't work on a regular AR (they interfere with the charging handle) on the side charge only LRP07 it should be no problem. There *may* be a chance the side charger interferes with the snap on cheek riser if the buttstock is in the fully collapsed position but I haven't tried yet.

The only real gripe I have about my 6.5CM LRP07 is the .080 firing pin allows a bit of cratering on the primers. In .308 the .080 firing pin isn't an issue, with .260 and 6.5CM the .080 firing pin will be your limit as it will start cratering (or piercing.) JP is coming out with a new "high pressure" bolt that uses a .068 firing pin which will take care of that issue.

Another thing to keep in mind is that while JP only lists a 22" medium weight 6.5CM barrel on their webpage they will do other lengths & contours for an hourly shop fee. I'm getting ready to order an 18" light profile 6.5CM build from them to complement my 22" medium weight build, I want a "short and light" 6.5CM LRP07. 123 Scenars over Varget look like a good combo for an 18" barrel.

Regarding dies, I use a redding type-s FL die for my 6.5CM LRP07 and have no issues. Sized cases chamber and extract easily by hand. I bump the shoulders back about .002-.0025" from cases that were fired with the gas block shut off.

One suggestion regarding gas blocks... the JP gas blocks require loctite to hold the setscrew in place and can really get stuck which makes them a pain in the ass to remove for cleaning or adjusting for a new load. I swapped the gas blocks on my JPs over to SLR Sentry gas blocks and am very happy with the change, it's a much better design. I'll be using another SLR gas block on the new 18" LRP07 even if I have to supply it to JP.

 

[delfuego]

Check out this stock The "MBA" - Modular Buttstock Assembly - luth-ar

I have yet to play with one, but the weight is considerably less than the PRS. That being said I have and like the PRS, I helps to balance the rifle and unless your running-and-gunning (3G He-Man) I dont think weight should be that much of a concern. Eye relief, LOP and cheek weld are very important for LR shooting.

 

[LearningAsIGo]

I am still waiting on mine (at about 13 weeks right now... can't wait for the e-mail). I did already receive my 1 piece mount, and it feels very solid and well built. I obviously haven't mounted it yet though.

 

[jevan126]

My JP LRP-07 is a 308, I am using the JP flat top one piece mount with my Swarovski Z6i scope and I love it, I do not do much bench rest shooting so this set-up works great for me. I am also using the Magpul UBR stock which I like due to the range of adjustments and just fits well for me. My goal was to keep the weight down as much as possible and mine comes in at about 9.5lbs

 

[LRRPF52]

I had my .260 Rem chamber cut for mag-feeding VLD-type pills like the 139gr Scenar and 142gr SMK, and it shoots the 130gr VLD amazingly well.

I chose .260 Rem because of brass availability. I believe that the Creedmoor is probably a more efficient burning case due to the 30 degree shoulder, but my .260 shoots so well, I can't complain. H4350 + 130gr VLD = bug holes, and 1/2 MOA or less at 1000yds if you are good at reading and compensating for the conditions quickly.

For overall rifle weight, I went heavy on mine, so I'm at ~14lbs with optics and LaRue LT-112 20 MOA QD mount. I used a JP/VTAC Handguard, DPMS receivers, and a custom profiled Bartlein done by GAP, 22" length.

I would like to build a DPMS GII .260 Rem light rifle, by pulling the .308 barrel, and having a Bartlein custom made for the GII extension, after having the extension trued, clean the threads, and custom fit the new barrel's tennon to the trued and cleaned GII extension threads.

Blend and polish the feed ramps, true the upper face, and bed the extension to the upper.

Use a mag-fed VLD reamer design from Manson, tweak the bolt with truing the face, cleaning the edges, and some other things, and balance the rifle out from head to toe so that the center of gravity is closer to my firing hand.

I'm thinking about a custom barrel nut that will fit an AA G10 15" handguard. Use the JP Silent Capture Spring, a higher end trigger, Cerakote the rifle after an aggressive de-grease, top it with an excellent US mount and high end glass, and see what happens.

They said .260 is one of the calibers they are looking at doing for production guns, but I will want to do all my own work and specs on a lightweight .260 Rem GII as described above. I'll never trust a big manufacturer to do these things because it is outside of their core competencies, whereas small shops with good reputations can and do get it right.

The DPMS GII 20" Hunter is one of the most well-balanced production rifles I have ever felt. A custom 21" .260 Rem in that format would be a killer.

 

[CharlesHJr]

My JP LRP-07 is a 308, I am using the JP flat top one piece mount with my Swarovski Z6i scope and I love it, I do not do much bench rest shooting so this set-up works great for me. I am also using the Magpul UBR stock which I like due to the range of adjustments and just fits well for me. My goal was to keep the weight down as much as possible and mine comes in at about 9.5lbs

My goal is the same as yours. What barrel did you choose?

Thanks,
Charles

 

[FALex]

Another option for a lightweight stock with the LRP07 would be to use a CTR and then add one of the snap on cheek risers that Magpul makes to adjust your cheekweld. While the CTR cheek risers won't work on a regular AR (they interfere with the charging handle) on the side charge only LRP07 it should be no problem. There *may* be a chance the side charger interferes with the snap on cheek riser if the buttstock is in the fully collapsed position but I haven't tried yet.

The only real gripe I have about my 6.5CM LRP07 is the .080 firing pin allows a bit of cratering on the primers. In .308 the .080 firing pin isn't an issue, with .260 and 6.5CM the .080 firing pin will be your limit as it will start cratering (or piercing.) JP is coming out with a new "high pressure" bolt that uses a .068 firing pin which will take care of that issue.

Another thing to keep in mind is that while JP only lists a 22" medium weight 6.5CM barrel on their webpage they will do other lengths & contours for an hourly shop fee. I'm getting ready to order an 18" light profile 6.5CM build from them to complement my 22" medium weight build, I want a "short and light" 6.5CM LRP07. 123 Scenars over Varget look like a good combo for an 18" barrel.

Regarding dies, I use a redding type-s FL die for my 6.5CM LRP07 and have no issues. Sized cases chamber and extract easily by hand. I bump the shoulders back about .002-.0025" from cases that were fired with the gas block shut off.

One suggestion regarding gas blocks... the JP gas blocks require loctite to hold the setscrew in place and can really get stuck which makes them a pain in the ass to remove for cleaning or adjusting for a new load. I swapped the gas blocks on my JPs over to SLR Sentry gas blocks and am very happy with the change, it's a much better design. I'll be using another SLR gas block on the new 18" LRP07 even if I have to supply it to JP.

Hey Kiba, does that SLR not require Loctite? What about carbon build up, same issue as most other adjustable gas blocks? I might have to have one shipped over to JP for the current build.

 

[Kiba]

Hey Kiba, does that SLR not require Loctite? What about carbon build up, same issue as most other adjustable gas blocks? I might have to have one shipped over to JP for the current build.

The SLR gas block uses a small leaf spring, detent, and adjustment screw with grooves to adjust the gas rather than the JP that uses only a setscrew and relies on loctite to hold it in place. It provides 15 adjustments between fully closed and fully open. The reason I changed is that I stripped out the set screw in one of my JPs while trying to adjust it after changing loads; the loctite plus a little carbon really stuck it in there. Even after adding some heat and kroil and using an allen driver made from a ground drill blank (very hard & sharp edges, less likey to strip/round itself and strip/round the screw) I was only able to work the setscrew back and forth a bit until it bound up and it eventually rounded the hex inside the setscrew. Had to clamp the gas block in the mill and use a reverse twist drill to remove it.

As far as cleaning, the SLR can be easily disassembled with only 2 allen wrenches for cleaning. The 3 on my JPs haven't required any cleaning yet, but when I received them I took them apart to see how they were put together and they're a snap to disassemble. Best detent-style gas block I've seen to date. Very small & light too, I used the clamp-on versions.

 

[Cobracutter]

Unless you are a hardcore reloaded, I would ALWAYS choose 6.5CM over the .260

Cheap, plentifull, and very accurate 6.5CM ammo is out there for just a bit over $1/rnd (120/140AMAX).

Good Factory .260 ammo starters around $1.5/rnd and goes up sharp.

You can shoot much more factory 6.5cm ammo than .260 for the same money.

 

[cactusbrew]

The SLR gas block uses a small leaf spring, detent, and adjustment screw with grooves to adjust the gas rather than the JP that uses only a setscrew and relies on loctite to hold it in place. It provides 15 adjustments between fully closed and fully open. The reason I changed is that I stripped out the set screw in one of my JPs while trying to adjust it after changing loads; the loctite plus a little carbon really stuck it in there. Even after adding some heat and kroil and using an allen driver made from a ground drill blank (very hard & sharp edges, less likey to strip/round itself and strip/round the screw) I was only able to work the setscrew back and forth a bit until it bound up and it eventually rounded the hex inside the setscrew. Had to clamp the gas block in the mill and use a reverse twist drill to remove it.

As far as cleaning, the SLR can be easily disassembled with only 2 allen wrenches for cleaning. The 3 on my JPs haven't required any cleaning yet, but when I received them I took them apart to see how they were put together and they're a snap to disassemble. Best detent-style gas block I've seen to date. Very small & light too, I used the clamp-on versions.

You should work for SLR because you sold me on the SLR gas block. Sounds like something I will need to buy.

KIBA: Is there any timeline as to when JP will be coming out with modified bolts for their 6.5 family of rifles?

 

[cactusbrew]

My JP LRP-07 is a 308, I am using the JP flat top one piece mount with my Swarovski Z6i scope and I love it, I do not do much bench rest shooting so this set-up works great for me. I am also using the Magpul UBR stock which I like due to the range of adjustments and just fits well for me. My goal was to keep the weight down as much as possible and mine comes in at about 9.5lbs

THis is my goal as well. I would like to keep it under 10 lbs and still have a buttstock that is solid and feels good in prone. Oh so many options, so little time.

 

[Kiba]

KIBA: Is there any timeline as to when JP will be coming out with modified bolts for their 6.5 family of rifles?

When I talked to Ben at JP about 6 weeks ago he said they hoped to have them packaged for individual sale and out in about 2-4 weeks... so they've slipped a bit. Ben said keep an eye on their webpage and once they're available they will be up there for sale. I check their webpage every morning to see if they're available yet.

They are supposed to start or may already be using them in new rifle builds as the new "high-pressure" bolt is already listed in the build specs for the LRP07 and PSC12.

 

[3GunRunner]

All the new 6.5c & .260's from JP will come with the HP bolt. It just isn't available on the retail level yet. The 6.5G will also use a new JP enhanced bolt rather than an Alexander arms 6.5G bolt.

 

[Kiba]

All the new 6.5c & .260's from JP will come with the HP bolt. It just isn't available on the retail level yet. The 6.5G will also use a new JP enhanced bolt rather than an Alexander arms 6.5G bolt.

Good news, I didn't ask Ben about a new JP-made 6.5G bolt but it makes sense to move in that direction.

I wish they'd get the new HP bolts out for individual sale, I really need to swap out the bolt in my 6.5CM LRP07. It's loaded to the very bottom of an accuracy node now because if I load to the middle of the node the primers get fairly well cratered on hot days. Slow fire on cool mornings is no problem when loaded to the middle of the node but the HP bolt & smaller firing pin will give me a much larger safety margin in regards to primer condition and allow me to load to the middle of the node even on hot days.

Still very happy JP took the initiative to make a DPMS-pattern bolt with a smaller firing pin to keep the .260, 6.5 x 47, and 6.5CM guys more safety margin on primer condition.

 

[LearningAsIGo]

All the new 6.5c & .260's from JP will come with the HP bolt. It just isn't available on the retail level yet. The 6.5G will also use a new JP enhanced bolt rather than an Alexander arms 6.5G bolt.

Do you happen to know if that includes rifles nearing completion (hopefully)? I ordered mine about 15 weeks ago but I haven't gotten the e-mail yet. I'm hoping it will come with the new bolt, but I don't want to call and bug them as I know they are incredibly busy.

 

[3GunRunner]

Do you happen to know if that includes rifles nearing completion (hopefully)? I ordered mine about 15 weeks ago but I haven't gotten the e-mail yet. I'm hoping it will come with the new bolt, but I don't want to call and bug them as I know they are incredibly busy.

My understanding is that all 6.5C and .260's will ship with the new HP bolt. So if you order a barrel kit, a complete upper, or complete rifle it should come with the new bolt.

 

[psychogecko]

I can confirm this is true! I just picked up my 6.5cm barrrel along with HP bolt and firing pin!