Just got my Rexem Die blocks for the Frankford M-press! Amazing!

Rugerjim

Registered from Australia
Minuteman
Nov 6, 2018
61
11
Quick product review folks. (supporting Aussies here shamelessly.)
I got an M-press and the die blocks were crap. It was the only thing that let it down.
I just got myself one of the first sets of the Rexem Australia Locking die blocks.
Holy moley are they good. Honestly, well worth the money. I've attached a picture.
I can't even measure my bump or seating variance now. They are rock solid!
They ship international too.
Youtube link

IMG_6472-2.jpg
 
I agree in full that the OEM provided die blocks are trash, good to see another option out there for folks wanting to make this press work.

Full disclosure - you can also just use two quality lock rings, such as the Forster ones, as a locally sourced fix. You set your height with the top ring (as it interfaces with the press when you move the handle) and the bottom ring just takes out as much slop as you'd like.

More here, along with a fix if a stuck case destroys the press.
 
I agree in full that the OEM provided die blocks are trash, good to see another option out there for folks wanting to make this press work.

Full disclosure - you can also just use two quality lock rings, such as the Forster ones, as a locally sourced fix. You set your height with the top ring (as it interfaces with the press when you move the handle) and the bottom ring just takes out as much slop as you'd like.

More here, along with a fix if a stuck case destroys the press.
Hey man. I tried that forster trick and they tend to bind up a bit and give me trash runout. The purpose made blocks in my opinion just work better for what it's worth. They also seem to reduce a little bit of slop from the original still keeping the ability to self center. Either way I'm super happy with them and felt it was well worth the shout-out :D

I've got a 22 GT coming shortly and I'm really looking forward to seeing how good I can make that bad boy shoot!
 
I agree in full that the OEM provided die blocks are trash, good to see another option out there for folks wanting to make this press work.

Full disclosure - you can also just use two quality lock rings, such as the Forster ones, as a locally sourced fix. You set your height with the top ring (as it interfaces with the press when you move the handle) and the bottom ring just takes out as much slop as you'd like.

More here, along with a fix if a stuck case destroys the press.
Hello, I am new to S/H. Looking to make my Frankford Arsenal M-Press and Universal Seating Dies work better. I'm content to use this press for bullet seating only. The problem-of-the-moment is wild variations in C/O/L. Char'ed, is that what you were trying to correct with the two lock rings? I get it that the "looseness" of the OEM die-block system, in relation to the shell-holder system, is to allow for "floating/alignment", which theoretically disallows run-out. But it seems to me that the die-block being allowed to slop upward during seating begs for inconsistent seating depth.
Replies/advice from any who have solved the mysteries of F/A press/dies are appreciated. Replies advising me to use the F/A as an anchor, yard art, chock-block, etc, will be amusing - but I ain't ready to give up - yet.
Thank you in advance,
Dan, Thousand Oaks, CA
 
Well, couple things to address in there.

First, this other thread of mine shows the two lock ring setup. The top lock ring still sets the critical dimensions, the bottom ring allows for exactly how much slop you'd like, and the use of Forster lock rings means the assembly will actually lock, which is neat, given the provided die blocks... don't. That thread will also show you how to repair yours should you ever use it for sizing and have a stuck case, because it'll fail in a real neat way.

I have never once measured runout. Don't own the tool to even attempt the job. Doesn't matter for me, I'm not shooting benchrest, I mostly attend as many one day local PRS style matches as I can and have a ball. My goals are: sub 10fps standard deviation in velocity measured over an entire day's worth of rounds, 0.7MOA or smaller 10 round groups back-to-back, so far away from signs of pressure that I can shoot wet ammo on a 103degree day without the slightest stiffness in bolt lift, produced in such time and quantity that I don't hate every step of the process.

You asked not to be told to select other equipment, and that's fair, we might be able to get you where you want to go with what you have. I gave my M-Press away long ago, but I still get folks PM'ing me about that thread, so I'm sympathetic and try to help as best I can.

  • What cartridge are you loading?
  • Can we have some specifics, leave out the final charge weight if you'd prefer and you don't hear kernels crunching when you seat projectiles, but can we know the components?
  • What platforms, applications, and conditions will the completed ammunition need to perform in?
  • How is it performing currently?
  • How are you measuring the velocity, and how many rounds do you sample per combination?

...I just scrolled up to see what thread this was in. Sounds like a great topic for a new thread. Make one and tag me?
 
Good Morning, The previous thread you referred me to is excellent. I'll install two lock rings and test it out. Thanks. The F/A press is good, but the excessive upward slop was not. The F/A "Universal Seating Die" also has potential to be a good tool, considering I use the F/A press only for seating.
I load .223, .308 and 30-06. The .223 is for my Service Rifle, Across-The-Course. Nosler CC 77s for 200, 300 yards; SMK 80s for 600. The .308 is for two rifles: An M-14 primarily for CMP/GSM competiton, 200 yds; and my M-40, Vintage Sniper Category 'B', 300, 600. My bullet of choice for both of these is a Nosler CC 168. These loads work well. During development, I use a LabRadar, average of five. Thanks again for sharing your experience.
Dan