KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

[slivoman]

So I have an older 80's Ruger 10/22 with the aluminum guard. I installed the drop in kit from KIDD. The trigger is sweet. However, I have a weird issue and I am wondering if my symptoms are why KIDD recommends using one of the newer polymer guards. The trigger worked flawlessly for about 100 rounds. Then it started to not fire at all. Pulling the trigger would not release the hammer. When I remove the the guard, the hammer seems stick to the trigger assembly. Not sure if the spring is sticking or what. Once I get the hammer unstuck, it would shoot about five rounds and get stuck again. Also, the hammer seems to be very stiff in the aluminum guard, shouldn't the hammer swivel smoothly?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Aries64]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So I have an older 80's Ruger 10/22 with the aluminum guard. I installed the drop in kit from KIDD. The trigger is sweet. However, I have a weird issue and I am wondering if my symptoms are why KIDD recommends using one of the newer polymer guards. The trigger worked flawlessly for about 100 rounds. Then it started to not fire at all. Pulling the trigger would not release the hammer. When I remove the the guard, the hammer seems stick to the trigger assembly. Not sure if the spring is sticking or what. Once I get the hammer unstuck, it would shoot about five rounds and get stuck again. Also, the hammer seems to be very stiff in the aluminum guard, shouldn't the hammer swivel smoothly?

Any help would be appreciated. </div></div>
You're talking about Kidd's <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Ruger 10/22 "trigger job" kit"</span></span>, right? I haven't used one but in my experience Kidd products are the best of their kind. Tony Kidd thoroughly researchs every aspect of any part he designs as well as the mechanical aspects of related parts and how the parts interact with each other within the system. So when Kidd says that the Kidd 10/22 "trigger job" kit works better with the Ruger plastic trigger guard than the old factory aluminum trigger guards he knows what he's talking about.

Part of Kidd's description of his <span style="font-style: italic">10/22 "trigger job" kit</span> states that <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"This entire kit will drop into your Ruger 10/22 plastic trigger guard well within 20 minutes of disassembly and reassembly time committed to your trigger job project."</span></span> Notice that Kidd is assuming that the 10/22 in question has a plastic trigger guard instead of the older cast aluminum trigger guards. I prefer machined steel and aluminum over plastic, but the truth is that Ruger's injection-molded plastic trigger guard (actually trigger "housing") has tighter tolerances than the Ruger aluminum unit.

Kidd sells the <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"Ruger 10/22 Plastic Gaurd"</span></span> for $34.00, and their description of the Ruger plastic trigger guard reads:

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">"We have found that our KIDD “trigger job” kit made to drop into a Ruger 10/22 guard works better in an OEM Ruger Polymer unit than an older metal unit due to the hole placement consistency in the polymer units. So we offer this black Ruger polymer guard with nothing but the Ruger safety installed in case a customer has a metal unit that isn’t working properly with their KIDD “trigger job” kit. After purchasing this guard you can remove the internals from your metal trigger guard and install them in your polymer guard in order to make your KIDD “trigger job” kit work properly."</span></span>

I'm sure that some people have installed the Kidd 10/22 "trigger job" kit in factory aluminum Ruger trigger guard/housings and run them without issue, but personally I feel that Kidd should specifically recommend the use of a Ruger factory plastic trigger guard/housing and let the customer decide whether they want to buy a new plastic Ruger or not. Maybe Kidd figured people wouldn't buy the 10/22 "trigger job" kit if they needed to replace the trigger guard/housing. Most people are cheap and won't buy one unless they need to. There's also the <span style="font-style: italic">"Don't fix it if it ain't broke" argument</span>, which is typically solid logic. Evidently, you need to replace your aluminum Ruger unit with a Ruger plastic unit. Good luck.


Keith

 

[slivoman]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

Yes, that is exactly what I was talking about. I read all of that as well. It's strange that the trigger worked fine for the first 100 shots and then started having hiccups. That is why I was inquiring if that was the actual issue or something else. The only reason I'm hesitant on getting the black trigger guard is my entire setup is stainless, and I wanted to keep it all that way.

Do you know if Ruger sells a painted version of that guard?

 

[Aries64]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, that is exactly what I was talking about. I read all of that as well. It's strange that the trigger worked fine for the first 100 shots and then started having hiccups. That is why I was inquiring if that was the actual issue or something else. The only reason I'm hesitant on getting the black trigger guard is my entire setup is stainless, and I wanted to keep it all that way.</div></div>
In your first post you said that <span style="font-style: italic">"the hammer seems to be very stiff in the aluminum guard"</span>, and asked <span style="font-style: italic">"shouldn't the hammer swivel smoothly?"</span> I can't say with certainty why the trigger worked for the initial 100 shots, but there's a lot variance in the old aluminum Ruger trigger guard/housing. Typically, the OEM trigger pins fit so loosely in the Ruger receiver that they fall-out when the barreled action is turned on it's side. Sometimes the holes aren't drilled square, resulting in pins not rotating.

Whatever the problem is, the fact that Kidd has stated that their "10/22" trigger job" kit works better with OEM Ruger polymer trigger guard/housing than the old OEM Ruger aluminum trigger guard/housing should be enough to get you to either buy a new polymer unit or remove the "trigger job" kit and put the OEM parts back in (yuck).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you know if Ruger sells a painted version of that guard? </div></div>
I could be wrong, but I don't think Ruger does. Even the "stainless" version 10/22s' that Ruger sells don't have silver or grey polymer trigger guard/housings - they're all Black in color. Of course, if you want the very best you could always go with either a Kidd trigger, which are available in natural aluminum or anodized Black in <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Two Stage</span></span> and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Single Stage</span></span>.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">MOA 17/4 SS Dual Lug receiver with threaded-in Kidd Match Barrel, CNC Bolt, Kidd Two-Stage Trigger, and EGW 20 MOA Extended Rail:</span></span>

Keith

 

[hdbiker1]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

Did you try adjusting the sear? I installed the Kidd trigger job into an aluminum housing and did have problems with not releasing the hammer. So I adjusted the sear via the small set screw on the front of the sear. Find the right spot and you'll be golden ... I hope.

 

[slivoman]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hdbiker1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Did you try adjusting the sear? I installed the Kidd trigger job into an aluminum housing and did have problems with not releasing the hammer. So I adjusted the sear via the small set screw on the front of the sear. Find the right spot and you'll be golden ... I hope. </div></div>

I may try that, but I'm calling KIDD first on Monday to see what he has to say. Thanks for the help.

 

[slivoman]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

SO I decided to get the single stage complete trigger from KIDD. They are going to exchange the drop in trigger kit for the full guard in stainless for me. It looks like the KIDD drop in trigger was way to loose inside the old aluminum housing. I noticed that the bushing would work loose a little and that was causing it bind up the hammer. The original hammer did not have this issue. KIDD's customer service was excellent. Later this year I will get a new barrel from them. Which do you guys think is better, the 18" or 20" barrel?

 

[Aries64]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SO I decided to get the single stage complete trigger from KIDD. They are going to exchange the drop in trigger kit for the full guard in stainless for me. It looks like the KIDD drop in trigger was way to loose inside the old aluminum housing. I noticed that the bushing would work loose a little and that was causing it bind up the hammer. The original hammer did not have this issue.</div></div>
Wow! Talk about upgrade - there's a big price differential between the Kidd 10/22 "trigger job" kit and the full-on Single Stage and Two-Stage triggers. I haven't tried a Kidd Single Stage - only the Kidd Two-Stage, but if you like single stage triggers I'm sure you'll like the Kidd Single Stage. After my brother tried the Kidd Two-Stage on my custom 10/22 he ordered one from Kidd too. Kidd triggers are beautifully machined and finished, amazingly smooth and crisp, and break exactly and consistently shot after shot after shot.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">KIDD's customer service was excellent. Later this year I will get a new barrel from them. Which do you guys think is better, the 18" or 20" barrel? </div></div>
Kidd does have excellent service - Tony and MariPat Kidd are both genuinely friendly, ship orders quickly, and don't "hose" you on the shipping. Kidd barrels are great, but as far as to whether an 18" is better than a 20" there's no definitive proof either way. I just know that Kidd barrels shoot lights-out. Below is a 100-yard, 10-shot group I fired with Winchester T22 40 grainers in light wind. I fired the first five shots slowly, then fired the next five shots quickly because the wind was picking-up. The group was much smaller until the quickly-fired shots at 2, 4, 5, and 8 O' Clock opened the group up. Even so, the group is easily under 1 MOA. The group was shot at 14X with an old school Leupold Vari-X III 4.5-14X40mm A.O.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">100 Yard 10-shot group fired slow/fast with Winchester Super-X T22 40 gr.:</span></span>

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">And my full-custom 10/22 with MOA 10/22 Replacement Receiver as configured when I fired the group above:</span></span>

Keith

 

[wade-19]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, that is exactly what I was talking about. I read all of that as well. It's strange that the trigger worked fine for the first 100 shots and then started having hiccups. That is why I was inquiring if that was the actual issue or something else. The only reason I'm hesitant on getting the black trigger guard is my entire setup is stainless, and I wanted to keep it all that way.</div></div>
In your first post you said that <span style="font-style: italic">"the hammer seems to be very stiff in the aluminum guard"</span>, and asked <span style="font-style: italic">"shouldn't the hammer swivel smoothly?"</span> I can't say with certainty why the trigger worked for the initial 100 shots, but there's a lot variance in the old aluminum Ruger trigger guard/housing. Typically, the OEM trigger pins fit so loosely in the Ruger receiver that they fall-out when the barreled action is turned on it's side. Sometimes the holes aren't drilled square, resulting in pins not rotating.

Whatever the problem is, the fact that Kidd has stated that their "10/22" trigger job" kit works better with OEM Ruger polymer trigger guard/housing than the old OEM Ruger aluminum trigger guard/housing should be enough to get you to either buy a new polymer unit or remove the "trigger job" kit and put the OEM parts back in (yuck).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you know if Ruger sells a painted version of that guard? </div></div>
I could be wrong, but I don't think Ruger does. Even the "stainless" version 10/22s' that Ruger sells don't have silver or grey polymer trigger guard/housings - they're all Black in color. Of course, if you want the very best you could always go with either a Kidd trigger, which are available in natural aluminum or anodized Black in <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Two Stage</span></span> and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Single Stage</span></span>.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">MOA 17/4 SS Dual Lug receiver with threaded-in Kidd Match Barrel, CNC Bolt, Kidd Two-Stage Trigger, and EGW 20 MOA Extended Rail:</span></span>

Keith </div></div>

That's odd, my stainless Charger came with a silver or gray plastic trigger group

 

[Aries64]

Re: KIDD drop in trigger and old style aluminum guard

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Wade-19</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Aries64</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, that is exactly what I was talking about. I read all of that as well. It's strange that the trigger worked fine for the first 100 shots and then started having hiccups. That is why I was inquiring if that was the actual issue or something else. The only reason I'm hesitant on getting the black trigger guard is my entire setup is stainless, and I wanted to keep it all that way.</div></div>
In your first post you said that <span style="font-style: italic">"the hammer seems to be very stiff in the aluminum guard"</span>, and asked <span style="font-style: italic">"shouldn't the hammer swivel smoothly?"</span> I can't say with certainty why the trigger worked for the initial 100 shots, but there's a lot variance in the old aluminum Ruger trigger guard/housing. Typically, the OEM trigger pins fit so loosely in the Ruger receiver that they fall-out when the barreled action is turned on it's side. Sometimes the holes aren't drilled square, resulting in pins not rotating.

Whatever the problem is, the fact that Kidd has stated that their "10/22" trigger job" kit works better with OEM Ruger polymer trigger guard/housing than the old OEM Ruger aluminum trigger guard/housing should be enough to get you to either buy a new polymer unit or remove the "trigger job" kit and put the OEM parts back in (yuck).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slivoman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you know if Ruger sells a painted version of that guard? </div></div>
I could be wrong, but I don't think Ruger does. Even the "stainless" version 10/22s' that Ruger sells don't have silver or grey polymer trigger guard/housings - they're all Black in color. Of course, if you want the very best you could always go with either a Kidd trigger, which are available in natural aluminum or anodized Black in <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Two Stage</span></span> and <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Single Stage</span></span>.

<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">MOA 17/4 SS Dual Lug receiver with threaded-in Kidd Match Barrel, CNC Bolt, Kidd Two-Stage Trigger, and EGW 20 MOA Extended Rail:</span></span>

Keith </div></div>

That's odd, my stainless Charger came with a silver or gray plastic trigger group

</div></div>
You're absolutely correct, <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">Wade-19</span></span>. However, as the .22 Charger has been discontinued, if Ruger has any grey polymer trigger guard/housings <span style="font-style: italic">"available"</span> they may or may not be willing to sell them separately.


Keith