KRG Bravo Chassis
- Thread starter southerngolfer
- Start date
Looking good! You can put an old school sling stud on the bottom of the buttstock, just remove the buttpad and put one of the flat backer nuts that came with the chassis in there and thread the stud into it. Thank you for your business.
We'll consider the simplified Spigot, we're a bit backed up here but it may be something we can get out in the coming months.
Thanks guys.
Justin
We'll consider the simplified Spigot, we're a bit backed up here but it may be something we can get out in the coming months.
Thanks guys.
Justin
I noticed that too with my FDE would be nice to keep align like the rest of the krg where couple screws holding those panel in place
I noticed the same with my fde. I’m wondering if shims would work? You can see it above with the sage green too.
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Regarding the whole recoil lug discussion, can we get the dimension of the slot on the Bravo so there is no more guessing? I haven't read it in here or on the KRG site.
What color of green is that on the barrel and the action?
Looks phenomenal! I may go this route with my Hancock.
For those of you who have these already, is there a compartment in the pistol grip? There's a little cutout at the bottom of the grip but I can't tell from any pictures if that's what it is
It’s Brownells Alumahyde II in Earth Brown actually. It does have a greenish tint though.
Not at all. It’s like spray paint but tougher. It takes about a week to cure. It holds up pretty well but not as good as cerakote or other baked on finishes.
Perhaps I should be more specific. Does the standard Bravo stock for Rem SA accept without modification a recoil lug with parallel sides that is 0.25" thick? I think the standard R700 lug is 0.19" thick, so there only needs to be room for 6 hundredths more. My guess is 'yes', but I don't want to waste anyone's time with an exchange to the W-3 backbone. Thanks for any help.
I bought a Bravo and can therefore answer my own question. The slot for the lug is 0.50" wide, which will accommodate most any recoil lug, especially mine at 0.25".
About the stock: 1) The front action screw is captive to the stock. In other words, it doesn't come out when unscrewed from the action. 2) The mag well is a little snug and the AICS magazine does not drop free. The instructions say this can be adjusted, but not how, and I unscrewed every screw from the fore-end expecting the plastic skin to slide, but it did not and I didn't force it. 3) The front action screw hole in the stock is deeply recessed in a 1/4" diameter hole. I didn't have a bit that would accommodate that width and depth in my Borka set, so I turned down the diameter of a long hex-shafted bit for torqueing the action screws. 4) In a perfect world I would prefer the cheek riser rods to be spaced further apart. As is, the are nearly a single pivot point against the riser rocking forward (ever so slightly) under forward-downward pressure when nearly fully extended. But to space them wider would require a bigger clamping system like the KMW Loggerhead.
Given that I replaced a Magpul Hunter stock with this, I think the Bravo is certainly an upgrade. There is a lot to like about it as part of a budget-minded setup.
About the stock: 1) The front action screw is captive to the stock. In other words, it doesn't come out when unscrewed from the action. 2) The mag well is a little snug and the AICS magazine does not drop free. The instructions say this can be adjusted, but not how, and I unscrewed every screw from the fore-end expecting the plastic skin to slide, but it did not and I didn't force it. 3) The front action screw hole in the stock is deeply recessed in a 1/4" diameter hole. I didn't have a bit that would accommodate that width and depth in my Borka set, so I turned down the diameter of a long hex-shafted bit for torqueing the action screws. 4) In a perfect world I would prefer the cheek riser rods to be spaced further apart. As is, the are nearly a single pivot point against the riser rocking forward (ever so slightly) under forward-downward pressure when nearly fully extended. But to space them wider would require a bigger clamping system like the KMW Loggerhead.
Given that I replaced a Magpul Hunter stock with this, I think the Bravo is certainly an upgrade. There is a lot to like about it as part of a budget-minded setup.
Howa Bravo in FDE, 26" 6.5 CM. I need to take some of the LOP out. Spigot mount out front. Yes there is a secret compartment in the grip but you still need a hex key to open it, unlike a Magpul AR grip. Otherwise you can see the shared Magpul design heritage. Used a MLOK Arca base plate for the too small #2 series tripod. I like the bag rider cut out when you remove the cover piece. The line of the plastic forend is slightly wavy next to the perfect barrel, also the joint between forend and the housing around the action do not line up perfectly. You have to remove the cheek riser to remove the bolt. Trigger is two-stage adjusted down to 2.5 lbs and crisp. All is solid and the overall impression is excellent but it still reflects its price, albeit a good value. I don't see where spending more on the chassis gets you any more performance but perhaps more convenient adjustments, nicer build quality, and pride of ownership. I'm not very experienced but same for the Howa action, it feels nicer than the Rugged, Savage, or Remington for a stock action. I haven't tried a Berega but I bet I'm not losing anything.
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Can anyone comment on the rigidity (or lack thereof) around the "U-turn" from where the stock attaches to action, down the grip, and back up to the rear of the stock? Looks like there could be considerable flexing/twisting in that area vs the Whiskey and X-Ray chassis.
Well, if you're using it as a rifle stock, you'll not notice any flex at all. If you're wanting to use it to bludgeon someone to death, then yeah, you might be better off with an X-ray.
Thank you that's very good to know. As we have now learned, stocks shaped like this one are susceptible to muzzle rise due to the geometry (impulse from round firing along barrel line NOT having a straight/rigid transfer to the shoulder/stock). If I bought this stock I would likely still put a reinforcement in the void from barrel line above stock to the stock.
Still hoping for an X-ray for Howa with the new chassis.
Hey guys,
Just wanted to add a couple things in here:
-The area in the grip can be used to store things. You can remove the screw that holds the cap on and just use the cover with the snap hook. There is always a bit of play in anything that uses a snap hook, and also we don't trust snap hooks over the life of the shooter so we added the screw.
-The design heritage is more Sako TRG (all of our chassis evolved from our early TRG accessories) combined with Mcmillan A series rather than Magpul although we did put the MLOK in there as that is really the standard for mounting modularity in polymer pieces. We did keep in mind the overall "concept" of the Magpul hunter, i.e. feature set / price point combo that hadn't existed yet.
-As shown, the Bravo does accept "thick" lugs (front to back) but not the super wide ones.
Thank you for your business guys!
Justin
Just wanted to add a couple things in here:
-The area in the grip can be used to store things. You can remove the screw that holds the cap on and just use the cover with the snap hook. There is always a bit of play in anything that uses a snap hook, and also we don't trust snap hooks over the life of the shooter so we added the screw.
-The design heritage is more Sako TRG (all of our chassis evolved from our early TRG accessories) combined with Mcmillan A series rather than Magpul although we did put the MLOK in there as that is really the standard for mounting modularity in polymer pieces. We did keep in mind the overall "concept" of the Magpul hunter, i.e. feature set / price point combo that hadn't existed yet.
-As shown, the Bravo does accept "thick" lugs (front to back) but not the super wide ones.
Thank you for your business guys!
Justin
Does anyone know if it will fit an m24 contour barrell I seen the specs on their site and measured my barrell looks really tight... Its a bartlein m24 contour
Is there any ETA on when the Bravo chassis for the Howa will be available separately? Will the price be the same $349 that the Tikka and Rem models are listed at?
There's some good deals on Howa barreled actions at the moment..
There's some good deals on Howa barreled actions at the moment..
I'm waiting for a T3 version that takes CTR mags as well.
Here's my Bighorn TL-2 in the Bravo. It is very rigid and so far I like it. It weighs 13lbs as pictured and recoils like a pellet gun with 75gr 223 loads.
I have big hands so it is taking a bit of getting used to compared to my AIAT. I may get the X-Ray back end at some point for it.
I have shorter rings on the way as these are a bit tall for my taste.
Thanks!
It is 20" long and a Light Palma profile.
I bought the barrel and action off of the EE here a couple months ago and Bighorn Arms went above and beyond in helping me get it ready and get the action updated with the latest revisions of the TL-2 as this action is #40X and was still from Colorado but it wasn't ever used. I got a fantastic deal on it to where it was cheaper to get a TL-2 than an Origin action.
The barrel was made by Josh at PVA and it appears to be a shooter capable of under half MOA 5-shot groups except for when I screw them up
Finally got out to the range to sight in today. The rifle is very comfortable to shoot at 12.8 lbs unloaded (this recoil pad is great BTW), and the layout of the controls is intuitive and makes the rifle easy and quick to operate. The KRG mags were smooth and cycled flawlessly and everything fits together tight like it should.
The tool-less buttpad height adjustment mechanism was sitting in my mailbox when I got home (they were backordered when I ordered everything else-go figure it gets here after I go to the range). Made some small adjustments to the foam in my Pelican 1750 to fit it; without any LOP spacers the tool less buttpad mechanism adds about 1/2" to the LOP-about the same as two spacers, so I took out the spacer I had in there. Once the Tikka specific cheekpiece is out and I can get another 1/4" out of the comb it will be perfect.
I got it all dialed in and included two groups that I fired after I sighted in. The first group is 7 rounds at about 1 MOA, and the second is 5 rounds with one flyer that opened it from about .6 to 1.5 MOA. That was all me though, I haven't shot scoped rifles in about 2 years so I definitely have room to improve and tighten things up, and the wind today didn't help.
The tool-less buttpad height adjustment mechanism was sitting in my mailbox when I got home (they were backordered when I ordered everything else-go figure it gets here after I go to the range). Made some small adjustments to the foam in my Pelican 1750 to fit it; without any LOP spacers the tool less buttpad mechanism adds about 1/2" to the LOP-about the same as two spacers, so I took out the spacer I had in there. Once the Tikka specific cheekpiece is out and I can get another 1/4" out of the comb it will be perfect.
I got it all dialed in and included two groups that I fired after I sighted in. The first group is 7 rounds at about 1 MOA, and the second is 5 rounds with one flyer that opened it from about .6 to 1.5 MOA. That was all me though, I haven't shot scoped rifles in about 2 years so I definitely have room to improve and tighten things up, and the wind today didn't help.
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Did you get the Bravo rear so it would work with CZ455? I am interested in this as well. If you did can you post pictures.
Thanks
Brownells code MDW for 10% off and free shipping. Go through active junkey for 7% cash back as well. Sub $300 for a Black KRG Bravo.
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...cks/rem-700-bravo-s-a-chassis-prod113643.aspx
https://www.activejunky.com/invite/230546
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...cks/rem-700-bravo-s-a-chassis-prod113643.aspx
https://www.activejunky.com/invite/230546
Has anyone figured out how to adjust the rear portion of the stock to line up with the lines on the hand guard? Seems like it does line up until you tighten the screw on top of the tang.
Just aesthetics but it bothers me.
Just aesthetics but it bothers me.
Has anyone figured out how to adjust the rear portion of the stock to line up with the lines on the hand guard? Seems like it does line up until you tighten the screw on top of the tang.
Just aesthetics but it bothers me.
Try tightening the rear action screw first, then tighten the screw on top of the tang. That's why we leave that one loose actually. This sounds crazy but the Sako TRG's are that way too.
I did tighten in that order. Will it affect anything to loosen the tang screw, leave it that way and put blue loctite on it?
It doesn’t sound crazy about the TRG I can see it’s a similar design. FYI I am still extremely happy with this chassis.
Anyone know if you're able to put a sling stud on the rear of the Bravo? It looks like the front stud is installed with an MOE type adapter, and the back accepts an MOE rail, so I should be able to put a stud in the rear right?
The "back bone" is supposed to be the same as the w3 and x-ray. The only difference is some minor mounting options at the forend, but your supposed to be able to order the w3 back bone as an upgraded . My w3 fits my m40 profile just fine.
Received my stock. I think it's a great option for the money.
Any updates on a more basic spigot mount?
Any updates on a more basic spigot mount?
