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KRG Midas trigger
- Thread starter coltm4
- Start date
Don't have one of either yet but might get the midas and see if I can convert it lefty with the single stage triggers safety. According to some of my emails with krg the pins are press fit in.
I don't have the Tikka 2-stage, to compare it to the KRG Midas I have, so.... 
I spoke to the KRG guys a month ago. They're busy launching the new C4 Chassis and other projects. The Midas is definitely on the list. Just waiting for my barreled action to finish at the smith.
Disclaimer I am not a gunsmith or even remotely smart. Don’t do anything I write below, follow KRG’s recommendation of 2# 8ozs per the instructions.
So since I haven’t seen this answered, I finally broke down and pulled apart my Midas to see if I could get the pull weight down around 1# to match my other rifles and my preference.
Factory I was only able to get almost to 1.5#’s with the second stage screw backed all the way out. Once I pulled the trigger apart I found there was 2 springs on the same arm, not sure what the technical term is but it’s the part that the trigger pushes out of the way to fire. The internal spring must be used to set the minimum allowed pull weight.
I pulled the internal spring out and reassembled. Now the break was 6-8oz. I screwed in the 2nd stage spring adjuster to get to 1#. Break stayed the same great feel just lighter. No issues resetting and I dropped the rifle on the buttstock from about 2’ multiple times with safety off. No issues.
So since I haven’t seen this answered, I finally broke down and pulled apart my Midas to see if I could get the pull weight down around 1# to match my other rifles and my preference.
Factory I was only able to get almost to 1.5#’s with the second stage screw backed all the way out. Once I pulled the trigger apart I found there was 2 springs on the same arm, not sure what the technical term is but it’s the part that the trigger pushes out of the way to fire. The internal spring must be used to set the minimum allowed pull weight.
I pulled the internal spring out and reassembled. Now the break was 6-8oz. I screwed in the 2nd stage spring adjuster to get to 1#. Break stayed the same great feel just lighter. No issues resetting and I dropped the rifle on the buttstock from about 2’ multiple times with safety off. No issues.
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This is what I needed to know and have been wondering for a while. Thanks!
Went out and tested the trigger today with the removed spring and pull weight of 1#. Functioned perfect, 0 issues
Just wondering, which spring is it that you pulled out? The instructions define the 1st, 2nd, and overtravel screws...is it the one in front of the trigger?
Crude finger drawing on my phone. The red L is the piece inside the trigger that the 2nd stage screw and spring push on to adjust the pull weight. That is the screw closest to the trigger. The squiggly lines represent the springs that push on the L shaped bar. The bottom one is the one you can adjust and the top one is the one I removed and sets the minimus pull weight. That is the reason that even with the bottom adjustment screw backed all the way out it still has around 1.5# pull.
You will need to remove the safety lever, trigger bar, and the L shaped bar to get to that spring. There is a spring infront of the safety pushing from the fro toward the rear so be careful. Also remove the 2nd stage adjuster screw and spring before starting to disassemble.
Hope this makes sense and if you have any other questions let me know.
You will need to remove the safety lever, trigger bar, and the L shaped bar to get to that spring. There is a spring infront of the safety pushing from the fro toward the rear so be careful. Also remove the 2nd stage adjuster screw and spring before starting to disassemble.
Hope this makes sense and if you have any other questions let me know.
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I'm seriously considering the Midas for a T3X build. What is the general consensus on the best trigger weight setting for "feel" . Break-like-glass-rod kinda feel.
Thanks
Thanks
For my particular trigger I noticed no difference in the feel of the break other than weight. When I first got it I believe it was around 2-2.5# now it’s down to 1#. I think I actually prefer the Midas over my trigger tech diamond but that rifle is out right now so can’t do a SXS comparison with the lower weight Midas until it gets back in the next couple weeks.
My friend has the timney 2 stage, from memory the Midas had a cleaner break
My friend has the timney 2 stage, from memory the Midas had a cleaner break
Noticed I posted on this thread. Replying to myself to alert folks to the fact that while the two stage Tikka trigger on the Tac A1 has a three position safety, the same trigger on the newest Super Varmint has only a two position safety.
I own a Super Varmint. It’s not a biggie but darn.
I have the Trigger Tech Diamond in my AR10, not sure how it compares to the bolt TT-Diamonds but I picked up the Midas after trying out my friend's Super Varmint. I figure the Midas is as close as I can get to that with a safety that can possibly be flipped.
I saw a Sako S20(single stage) trigger on eBay that they said works with the Tikka T3s, but I noticed the safety has an extra bar(haven't seen a TAC A1 trigger). If the 3-position mechanism is just that bar, I wonder if it's possible for someone to create an aftermarket version. Right now Roedale seems like the only option.
Quick follow-up...had to grind the safety a bit where it engages the sear mechanism. "Click" is gone and just to prove theory, I put the KRG safety on the T3x trigger group. Everything seems to work fine
Also a note if someone else is attempting this: The safety spring post is ridged on the flush side. Press out from the head so you don't damage the bore all the way through(though I think it'll still be usable as the post just supports the spring). Also, that internal spring that pushes against the safety lever pin is a PITA to get in; but I had good luck pressing the trigger against the spring while pushing the spring with a punch through the back. While putting a little pressure on the safety, it should catch the spring although the spring will most likely be binding/cocked sideways. Push the spring down using a small/micro flathead and you should be able to push the safety through. May require "walking" or continually pushing the spring up/down while keeping constant pressure on safety.
Also a note if someone else is attempting this: The safety spring post is ridged on the flush side. Press out from the head so you don't damage the bore all the way through(though I think it'll still be usable as the post just supports the spring). Also, that internal spring that pushes against the safety lever pin is a PITA to get in; but I had good luck pressing the trigger against the spring while pushing the spring with a punch through the back. While putting a little pressure on the safety, it should catch the spring although the spring will most likely be binding/cocked sideways. Push the spring down using a small/micro flathead and you should be able to push the safety through. May require "walking" or continually pushing the spring up/down while keeping constant pressure on safety.
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This ^^^^
I have both, and the Midas hands down, is a cleaner break. The Timney tends to have a little plateau between the stages.
Did you use a follower pin when you removed the levers?
The safety spring post. What side are you recommending to push from? The flush side or the sticky out side? Did you remove the post completely to reinsert from the other side?
Yes. Follower pin failed as the ends of the safety pins are tapered(basically spring still slipped/cocked). I think this is also due to there being so much room for the spring to move around.
Push from the sticky side. Yes, I completely remove and reinsert from the other side. Here's pic of the pins:
I used a press, actuating by hand. I wouldn't recommend a hammer/punch.
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Im glad you could get it to work. Now I have some idea of what to do whenever I get to buying a midas. Now I'm not the guinea pig.
Have arbor presses at work. I think it shouldn't be too hard to just get 2 triggers in to work. The rest of the gun different story.
Arbor press should work perfect fine; the housing was pretty soft(I'm guessing it's aluminum) so the pin came out very easy.
Main thing I wish I would've done was fit the safety before reinstalling everything. Just throw the safety in there with that internal spring and make sure it functions without hitting anything, and file/sand as needed. Looks like it still works completely fine with a little clearance but I have mine set up to where it still touches but doesn't drag when flipping the safety lever.
@MarinePMI or others with AI comp triggers, does the Midas offer a similar feel? Goes without saying but I understand they will obviously not be identical.
Currently working on a T3 223 built to mimick the AT-X, and trying to figure out which one of the KRG/Timney/TacA1 will get me closest.
Currently working on a T3 223 built to mimick the AT-X, and trying to figure out which one of the KRG/Timney/TacA1 will get me closest.
IMHO, they're about the same, but with a different feel. The AI trigger has a bit more overtravel after it breaks the wall. The Midas pretty much stops as soon as it breaks. I could probably adjust it to have more, but with it like it is, I just left it, since I use it on a rifle that is primarily a hunting rifle, and works well. The other difference is the shape of the trigger. With the Midas I have (1st production run) it had more of a flat trigger shoe, so had a slightly different feel because of that (if that makes sense).
Thanks for the feedback. And yes it does - I use the flat shoe on the AI comp so I think physically they will be pretty close. I already took a lot of the overtravel out of the AI and it sounds like the KRG at least offers some OT adjustment, so I’m thinking I will be able to tune any differences out.
Now just to find one…
For the KRG Midas? Yes, it has a dedicated adjustment screw at the bottom of the trigger.
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