Krylon?

[Houston Fire 34]

Well I think I want to paint one of my rifles. I've got several nice rifles that are cerakoted but tired of babying them in the buggies and on hikes. Gonna build MK12ish hunter and paint it some kind of camo but not sure how to go about it. I want something that if it gets dropped and scratched I won't care so much and still shoots dead on.

I heard guys just using Krylon but how hard is to remove? Where can I find some decent patterns and do I need to use high heat on barrel and suppressor? Do I need to scotch brite everything and how much?

Open to all suggestions. Thanks.

 

[Mr.RonGilbert]

Howdy HF, I am no pro by any means but have painted a few. Rustoleum makes a non-reflective "ultra" flat in several different colors. I practiced on some cardboard then an old coffee cup that is now my favorite... the coffee even tastes better for some reason.

Just like any paint... it's all in the prep. Make sure that there is zero oil or anything that will keep the paint from doing what it does. I used some spray prep that comes in a can but there are plenty out there. Let it dry, then I hit it with some adhesion promoter by Duplicolor. That may be overkill but I figure that if it helps then it was worth it. I used this method painting parts on my Jeep that have held up to plenty of abuse and still look great. As far as heat resistant goes... I am not the guy to answer that but can say that I painted my .223 can because it was dinged up. I used flat black and it has held up just fine. I don't shoot it enough to get it hot enough to cause issues with the paint but do know that the can stated that the paint was good to go up to 200f.

I practiced on a couple of 10-22 stocks and made some mistakes - glad that I made'em on cheap-o stocks vs something that I would regret. I plan on practicing a lot more before I paint one of my more expensive toys.

I can't answer to the removal 100% but know people who have used stripper with good results. I used acetone on the optics (while it was still tacky) to get a little bit of residual off of the glass on the inside and it wiped right off.

Hopefully someone with solid skills on this can post up. My .02 is grab some and test it on something cheap... then go from there. I used an old laundry bag to get the snake look, used some long blades of grass held together but fanned out at the ends to do the lines on the straight stock. Paint used was khaki, brown and OD green. I finished it off using a matte clearcoat. The clearcoat will help preserve the paint.

I have also used Duracoat with very good results. Sprayed that through an airbrush setup, nothing fancy - just solid colors. Holds up real well but can get pricey.

If you want to get fancy with patterns and such find someone with a vinyl cutter and the possibilities are endless.
.
I am on the east side - just east of Baytown. I have a cutter, plenty of paint and cold beer in the shop. You are welcome to come over and see how easy it is.

 

[precision308]

I would do duracoat. If a gun gets scratched its called character.

 

[blcouch]

My Mk12 has had 3 Krylon jobs since 05. Brake cleaner, airplane stripper and Citrustrip all take the paint off pretty good. I used Krylon as a base, Rusteoleum Textured Accents as the topography and Krylon over that to shade and fade. As far as patterns, my limited scope of operations has deemed a random shading and spraying of earth tones to work better for me than some fixed pattern. Less headache to apply and easier to customize to environment.

 

[Redmanss]

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...t/55529-those-afraid-paint-their-weapons.html

 

[blcouch]

 

[StevethePirate]

I've used Krylon before, but prefer Aervoe military camo paint for weapons use. I think Krylon comes off too easily from use. Service wears better, but still comes off using oven cleaner, etc. It does take longer to air dry, though. It also cones in many different shades of camo colors.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I've kryloned numerous guns and I can tell you the prep and curing time is the key to durability. If you properly prep the surfaces (scuff or blast them and clean with acetone) and give it enough curing time krylon is pretty tough. The only time I've had an issue with it wearing too fast is when I didn't let it cure enough. I let everything hang for a minimum of a week but longer is better.

The nice thing is that when it does wear you just redo it. Properly done though it will take a while for that to happen.

 

[LRRPF52]

I use Cerakote so I don't have to worry about nics and dings. I use my blasters in very harsh outside environments, with lots of dust, sand, jagged rocks, sage brush, as well as high humidity areas at sea level with broad temp ranges. Cerakote is the way to go for exterior and some interior finish (inside the lower).

You really have to work hard to damage a Cerakote finish, if we're talking properly applied and baked H-Series.

 

[Mr.RonGilbert]

^^^ that is bad ass.

Nice work.

 

[mdmp5]

Krylon sucks. It is sticky and it rubs right off. You can strip an entire stock with a rag and acetone in a few minutes

 

[blcouch]

Krylon sucks. It is sticky and it rubs right off. You can strip an entire stock with a rag and acetone in a few minutes

Hmm. I must have done mine wrong. It has never been sticky or rubbed right off. If/when it would get chips I'd just touch it up with another color and add to the randomness. I don't abuse the thing but it isn't some 'weekend driver garage queen' by any means.

 

[tickled pink]

This was the first time I painted a rifle with Krylon.

This shows how I did it:

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=366263

This is how it looks finished:

http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=374570&highlight=

 

[tickled pink]

Krylon sucks. It is sticky and it rubs right off. You can strip an entire stock with a rag and acetone in a few minutes

After it was painted I sprayed it with flat clear lacquer and let it dry for about a week and never had any problem like you had.