Krylon

[mheimer_45]

I hope this is the right section but when you guys krylon a rifle how long do you wait to put stencils on after the first coat? It’s usually a spur of the moment decision for me and I usually try wait an hour but my lines aren’t defined and the stencils pull off a lot of paint underneath and next to the edges. I’ve done two types of stocks so far. A cheap savage factory that didn’t turn out to bad. My latest was a rubber hogue that looks like ray charles painted. Ive been playing with the cheapos first. Using GAP pattern camo so I would like defined lines. Any tips?

 

[Jackalope]

Scuff with a red scotch brite and use a good adhesion promoter prior to paint. You can make an impromptu oven with a cardboard box and a heat gun (keep an eye on it obviously) but that should help speed up the dry time. The sponge camo method is another good option if you like that style. It’s easy, quick and hides wear well.

 

[Mj1995]

+1 for sponge camo. Also I'm not sure if you'll really get any spray paint to stick to that rubber.

 

[...]

ive never had good luck with stencils on Krylon......lay down a primer/ adhesion promoter coat......then a base layer......then i just pattern with the spray can and sponges......occasionally i use a mesh net.

 

[lash]

I made stencils using blue painters tape to use Krylon. Like mentioned, scuff the surface and use an adhesion promoter on the bare stock. Then I let each coat dry for at least two hours before applying the next one. More if possible. I get nice clean lines and no pealing paint. Here's one I'd did a few years ago:

 

[tnbowhunter]

I done a grayboe. It stuck really well. Wiped it down with alcohol or something of that sort to clean. Then used the expensive blue painters tape to cut out patterns. Didn’t take long at all to dry. Waited maybe thirty minutes between colors. No paint peeled off. Lines are sharp. Then sprayed a light clear coat. It did leave sort of a raised edge feel from one color to next but I don’t mind it.

 

[lash]

That looks sharp! As to the raised edges between colors, some 300 or 600 grit just before the clear coat will take care of that.

 

[ViP]

That looks sharp! As to the raised edges between colors, some 300 or 600 grit just before the clear coat will take care of that.

Let’s say you sprray paint your rifle and use it for a year. Then, you decide that you want to change the entire colour scheme of it. Do you paint over the current work or do you need to remove the paint and then repaint it? Thanks.

 

[hollowoutadime]

If you do a really swell job on the camo, I mean really, really good, your rifle will barely be visible.

 

[shoobe01]

I don't use Krylon, but instead Rapco for guns, vehicles, and related stuff. Amazing difference. I cannot say enough good things about it.

Anyway, for all paints:

• As mentioned above, surface prep!
• Spray additional coats pretty fast. As soon as visibly surface dry.
• Anything that requires touching it, including removing masking or sponge painting, should not be done for at least overnight (8-12 hours). Longer is better but before cure time, say 1-5 days.
  • Make SURE you use compatible paints. If the new paint is not compatible it may lift the first coat and you have to wait until cure time is over.
• Do not place into service for AT LEAST three days. Preferably longer; takes about 2 weeks for most paints of this type to cure. Exceptions take up to a month to cure, so don't think there's anything faster

Cure times are not generally listed on paint/glue cans. You need to wander technical readouts, and ask places like here

 

[tnbowhunter]

That looks sharp! As to the raised edges between colors, some 300 or 600 grit just before the clear coat will take care of that.

I debated lightly sanding down the edges a bit. I’ll try that next time

 

[lash]

Let’s say you sprray paint your rifle and use it for a year. Then, you decide that you want to change the entire colour scheme of it. Do you paint over the current work or do you need to remove the paint and then repaint it? Thanks.

It depends on what you use the rifle for and what is your end goal. You can sand it lightly for adhesion, degraese it and add you new paint or strip it down bare and start over.

For a knock around rifle that you just want to change or update, a paint over will work, though you will have extra layers (thickness). For a stock only, this works okay. I would not paint over an already painted scope, barrel or other metal parts. If you want a slick looking range rifle or want to really wow the guys at camp, you will want to strip it and start over.

 

[tnbowhunter]

Let’s say you sprray paint your rifle and use it for a year. Then, you decide that you want to change the entire colour scheme of it. Do you paint over the current work or do you need to remove the paint and then repaint it? Thanks.

I usually test and see how easily it will come off and base it on that. The barreled action paint has normally came off pretty easily for me. Stocks seem to hold the paint better so I usually just spray over the old color

 

[brianf]

i find that rustolium is far superior to krylon. covers soooo much better and adheres better as well.
i dont scuff just wipe clean with some alcohol (if not i just clean well), blue painters tape and spray.
with that being said i dont expect it to last forever, if i wanted a forever paint job that would be a totally different story. and it wouldnt involve spraypaint at all.

if im doing a quick color change for a specific time of year or hunt (fall here in NY...yes my state sucks... but going hunting in the snow up in canada) ill take some sports grip tape and use it as a base.
then spray over the tape what ever colors or pattern i need and go at it.
when i get back if i dont like the camo or it doesnt fit my AO i just peel off the tape and im back to my original color, no stripping or scrubbing.

depending on the reason for the camo;
camo is about breaking up lines, the actual pattern doesnt mean much nor does the color...jsut dont use black.
not sure who ever made up the original woodland pants but there is no black in nature, and deep olive drab turns black when in the shade viewed through optics.
you take a really dark color set and lean it up against a tree in the shade, observe through a optic of some sort and it looks like a black piece of PVC pipe

 

[...]

Let’s say you sprray paint your rifle and use it for a year. Then, you decide that you want to change the entire colour scheme of it. Do you paint over the current work or do you need to remove the paint and then repaint it? Thanks.

Honestly I just paint over it....

Once I’ve got like 5-6 layers on it, I’ll strip it down and recoat it.

Old paint makes the best primer.... so no need to constantly remove it

Plus my guns are working guns... the camo is there to do a job, not look pretty.... so if it’s not perfect I’m not too worried