Amateur, mine have magpul BAD levers...But my AR's have all the "don't's", and horrible things that will clearly get you killed, like completely unstaked gas keys, unstaked castle nuts and barrel nuts that are only hand tight.![]()


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Amateur, mine have magpul BAD levers...But my AR's have all the "don't's", and horrible things that will clearly get you killed, like completely unstaked gas keys, unstaked castle nuts and barrel nuts that are only hand tight.![]()
But ma operating operators don't use psa...I would say that a good palmetto is absolutely sufficient. Just run a few hundred rounds through it to make sure it is good to go.
If palmetto associates you too much with the poors, a good complete lower topped with a BCM upper is good. Just make sure to switch the cheap carbine buffer out with the appropriate weight heavy buffer.
I have firsthand knowledge that the Super Dutys absolutely shit the bed horrifically on one of their biggest USG contracts. It was so bad that the guys started demanding their old rifles back.
Interessen. Any more details? Frankly the SD rifles don’t really innovate at all. Just a lot of well done off the shelf style parts.I have firsthand knowledge that the Super Dutys absolutely shit the bed horrifically on one of their biggest USG contracts. It was so bad that the guys started demanding their old rifles back.
In my experience, handguns even more so. I've watched people I know struggle to finish simple stages in IDPA-style matches with pistols they've been shooting for 25 years and had thousands of trouble free round through.Nothing exposes the gremlins in a rifle like putting it on the clock in a competition. Regardless of what you choose, run a few hundred rounds through it in an induced stress stiuation- competition. A rifle rarely takes a dump at the bench...
i use the mobile 10w as well except when cold environments I switch to 0wi like that the envelope of what is a "good" rifle has substantially increased since my first one nearly 20 years ago. at least on the "budget" side of things
a psa ChF CL barrel with an LMT bcg on a poverty pony lower with good parts kits (including buffer tube assembly) isn't an expensive rifle.
vet it with some common sense and popped primers and rock on.
taken plenty of heartbeats with the above combo, and 5 figures worth of empties have went out the gas port. quite a bit was steel case during the last regime when it was 20cents from sgammo.
10-40wt oil occasionally on the bcg.
it ain't my LMT but that effer runs..
I will say that I typically only used Colt and DD LPK (no more DD for me ever now) but recently tried the Geiselle LPK and it was very nice. I've used Aero and Anderson ss trigger LPK and both were fine and those rifles have thousands through them. LPK are throw away items, if a part isn't right, toss it and grab another. I was impressed with the Geiselle like I said and not too expensive.From ones I've bought. Just looking at the geissele lpk vs a aero, psa and s&w. The geissele is much more refined. They make pretty parts. And they are super and duty and much precision.
I've got an AR from PSA. Their blems are awesome!I'm an admitted cheap bastard.
I have never had a failure on any PSA AR Milspec component.
Anderson, Aero, PSA lowers? Don't care.
I will genuinely trust my life to any of them I own.
Ignorance is bliss. Most here do not even have a basic understanding of the AR15 operating system to be able to have an educated opinion on the subject, much less enough they should be giving advice.there's plenty of hyperbole that comes out in these threads
"trash"
"garbage"
"overpriced"
etc etc
truth is, an sr-15 isn't a rifle isn't always the best. ur gonna be sad when it flips off a skiff in the arctic when you hit a dead head.. and that svelte gas system might let ya down when wolf steel case is in the mag on the snow machine when it's 15 below
and a PSa upper with a good parts kit, bolt and some vetting probably isn't the best.. but in the contex of real world usage and human history it's a damn dependable weapon that will serve you well.
and if your buddies kid loses it when they roll the skiff, you give him some shit, order up and another upper/lower and keep rockin on. it's happened.
Not even AR related. My $2000 browning shotgun has problems cycling shells below 30 degrees. It’s “top of the line” but there are cheaper shotguns out there that will shoot in a blizzard like any other day.Ignorance is bliss. Most here do not even have a basic understanding of the AR15 operating system to be able to have an educated opinion on the subject, much less enough they should be giving advice.
You are a great example. ANY properly built AR is going to have issues cyclying wolf or similar underpowered ammo in the extreme cold. Its called physics and if your gun is running that it means its massively overgassed and beating the subpar lowest bidder parts to shit, accelerating wear and MRBTF. The fact you do not know this means you should not be telling anyone anything about this platform, except maybe your favorite color.
Complete ignorant non qualified statements by people who do not know what they are talking about. Unless you have proven a gun model, in a statistical sample size and volume of testing to be significant, you are talking out of your ass.
Again, Ignorance is bliss.
1. Depends if you want to talk about the official TDP or guns that were designed, revised, tested and proven by themselvesWhile I do agree with much of what you said, I still do have some questions.
1. What is BCM/COLT? Is that a military spec? Is it an industry spec? Is it a grade of material?
2. Whew! I gotta catch my breath!
3. Etc…
4. Did you mean “out of spec”
5. Unstated? Mean unstaked? Which isn’t even a word. Maybe “not staked”?
6. LPKs
I mean if we are getting technical and talking quality, we might talk with more quality? I guess ignorance really is bliss.
Most people living in an area that sees that kind of weather is not carrying a service or battle rifle. If you had to, the Finish Valmet is probably the most proven cold weather service rifle out there, and would be my first choice. Next would be something by HK, just because HK has testing facilities all over the world including in the arctic, jungle and deserts to ensure their products work in all environments. Canadian rangers use a tikka 308 bolt gun FYI. Canadian armed forces use a DI AR, The swedes use the FNC/G3/H417 and the Norwegians use both the 416 and DI AR.before bowing out.
if you lived in a place that regularly sees 25 below and ammo availability is spotty what rifle are you running??
personal experience is fine.. i'll listen.
i'll use an apt analogy.
it wasn't ZT or a bark river or a winkler electrical taped upside down to my grundens suspenders while running a boat in the gulf of alaska.
nor was i wearing my arcteryx jacket.
the shotgun analogy above is perfect. on the hunting boat on kodiak i saw it a bunch of that duck hunting. junky 870 boat gun always ran. seen a plethora of italian guns not. guess what one clients ended up using??
This is the kind of ignorant, non logical statements that people say to justify their cheap shit.Statistics and mean round count between failure metrics don’t mean dick when it’s your gun that takes a dump. Even the Gucci labels turn out a bad one. The roll mark is just the starting point and the price tag is just the cost of admission. Confidence in a brand based on reputation is less important than confidence based on bullets down range. Whether it’s. KAC, or a PSA blem, or a total home brew, take it out and shoot it, a lot.
And, “good enough” is- by definition- good enough.
Again, people approach these questions from the wrong angle.I'm partial to the "Frankengun". Why ? Because If I'm going to get killed in a fire fight due to a weapon malfunction, it will be my fault. Why would I put my life in the hands of some pot head assembler ? Or some CNC idiot in China ? One piece at a time is my motto. The buck stops here.
Now, if you are a guy who does not trust his mechanical ability.... What will you do when you have a malfunction the day after the SHTF and you can't send it back to the factory, even though it's got a warranty ? How many spare parts / gunsmith tools do you have in your tool box or go bag ? How about a small tube of lube?
JMHO
You arent going to gleen much useful information , even if you know what you are looking for by trying to inspect a gun in the store with the MK1 mod 1 eyeball. Most things are subtle or unable to be seen like being slightly undersized/oversized/metallurgical. I spent half my life plumbing guns as a profession, mostly M4/M16s. Certial tools and measurements can be used but its not like they are going to let you dissademble the gun in the store to check gas journey fitment or tube alignment. You must be some sort of wizzard with Xray vision and able to measure with the eyeball down to .001. There are dozens and dozens of potential issues you would have to look for and its more cost and time effective to just buy something correct from the beginning.Serious answer if you want to spend the absolute minimum on an AR is find an inexpensive brand at a gun store you can physically inspect. Check for any major glaring flaws (gas key staking, gas key strike, misaligned parts, poor upper/lower fitment) if you find none of those, get it, put a better bolt and extractor in it, check headspace and then run about 1000 rounds through it training looking for any issues.
Paying extra $$$ for an AR these days is usually paying for the warranty behind it, or because it has some special feature you might particularly like (LMT lowers come to mind)
A rifle that has been detail inspected and checked with a discerning eye and passed is always going to be 100% better than one that has not.
WE got two problems OP.
First of all "Battle RIfle" and "Assault Rifle" are two different things. Battle Rifle = 308 Caliber or similar 1000 Yard shots. Assualt Rifle= Medium Caliber, 300 yard shots.
You don't want a battle rifle. They are expensive and heavy and gain you nothing but points for a small penis. But if you insist on one, get a Garand because is Gansta AF.
ARs are overblown and saturated. I have a Ruger that I got for like $500 during a "F Beto Sale". Slapped a CMC trigger on it, a sight I won and it runs like a combat weapon. Eats anything. hits the target. Will it punch 1 MOA holes? nope. Its an assualt rifle (albeit semi-auto), small, light, compact. If you are within 300 yards, you're gonna get hit. Paper, Steel, Troublemaker.
Buy a cheap AR and a ton of ammo. If something breaks, fix it. You spend less time arguing on the internet, more time shooting, and gain the skills to know your rifle. Is it the same as a JP? Nope. But what are you trying to do? Win a precision match? Win a fight? Look cool?
If you want a good rifle, shoot it.
Shoot it a lot. If its crappy, you'll know and fix what's broken.
Then its a good rifle.
You'll also learn how it works and what's important.
"Captain Bushmaster" out. (Maybe I should promote myself to Commodore Rear General after the 4th Barrel).
Edit: Paul Howe got run off (or more likely said "F this") M4carbine because he ran DPMS rifles as spares for students.
I agree you won't find every single issue, but it's easy to spot the major ones that will result in something being unreliable garbage with a couple of quarters, a penny, and a little looking, provided you know what to look for in the first place. It's not rocket surgery to check for gross misalignments or assembly failures.You arent going to gleen much useful information , even if you know what you are looking for by trying to inspect a gun in the store with the MK1 mod 1 eyeball. Most things are subtle or unable to be seen like being slightly undersized/oversized/metallurgical. I spent half my life plumbing guns as a profession, mostly M4/M16s. Certial tools and measurements can be used but its not like they are going to let you dissademble the gun in the store to check gas journey fitment or tube alignment. You must be some sort of wizzard with Xray vision and able to measure with the eyeball down to .001. There are dozens and dozens of potential issues you would have to look for and its more cost and time effective to just buy something correct from the beginning.
Again, people should stop talking about things they don't know. Buying a quality AR is not about buying a warranty. Its about buying a Gun that uses the correct raw materials, is finished correctly, assembled correctly and the sum of the parts results in a reliable system you can trust your life to, proven by lots and lots and lots and lots of testing.
Reliable... That's my #1 requirement. When I pull the trigger I want to hear "Bang".... From that point on it's just fine tuning.Buy whatever and then prove it reliable.
I have a bastardized rra lower, dpms upper that I've put about 10000 rounds through. Lots of 3 gun and practice. I ran it an entire 2 years without cleaning to win a bet with a buddy. It just keeps running. Yeah, it's probably over gassed and not particularly accurate, but it has always worked.
I have a few home built whatever was cheap ARs for plinking at prairie dogs. They have a few rounds through them with no issues, but not enough I'd really trust them nor do they have the correct optics for that purpose.
I know of many people with an unopened 1000 round case of ammo, 1-3 mags, and a BCM/Colt, etc. They will be far worse off than my crap rifle with a backpack full of mags that I know how to hit with. There's an extra toolcraft complete bcg in the backpack if the need arises since that's going to be the main failure point. Gas rings, extractor, gas key, etc.
Colt rifles have been tested and proven,
that’s the other side of his argument, he’ll drop another $1k on gear and he doesn’t want to be 3-4K deep.
I’ve shown him a few optic options, trying to push him into a comp m4 or similar from Aimpoint. I’d sell him 1000 rounds out of my stash cheap just to get him out to the range and shooting. Mags I have a bunch of lancer mags I like, some pmags I have are shit, others feed flawless. I have a decent system for mags, I bring a silver sharpie and if I have an issue with a mag it gets a sharpie mark. 3 marks and it’s gone.
Not sure about a sling, any recommendations?