Rifle Scopes Leupold Mark 6 3-18x40mm, 34mm Tube, w/ TMR Pics and Review..

Interesting thought....thanx.

Is it the case that past say 600 yards, more than 18x is often needless, due to mirage?

Depending on where you live this is absolutely a concern. I live in south Texas and during half the year when the sun is out anything past 15x when shooting long range is worthless due to mirage


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Interesting thought....thanx.

Is it the case that past say 600 yards, more than 18x is often needless, due to mirage?

Depending on where you live this is absolutely a concern. I live in south Texas and during half the year when the sun is out anything past 15x when shooting long range is worthless due to mirage


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Didn't want to start a new thread on this and since there seems to be not too many written or video impressions/reviews for the 3-18x44mm mark 6 i figured i'll post mine. I'm no optics expert so here it goes and bear with me on the reticle pics they suck, didn't have it mounted to a rifle which made it difficult. A lot of this will be like Mhuff has already said.

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To start it's tiny, seriously if your used to using a NF NXS, USO SN-3, or anything in that decently sized area of a scope this will look micro to you. It is maybe an inch longer than my mark 4 M2 2.5-8x36mm. It almost feels too light compared to what my SN-3 feels like.
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On to the turrets, this could be a hit or miss for most. From what i gather most don't like locking turrets, they actually don't bother me, i like them. That said these turrets on the M5B2 mark 6 are a bit mushy it's nothing huge for me because my USO EREK knob is a bit in the same area but it's much easier to read. This is because my EREK knob sits over a hash on the scope body while having a hash that extends under the measurements on the knob. Leupold has an arrow on the scope body pointing up, not making contact with the hash marks on the dial, it's a bit of a negative IMO because i like being able to tell exactly where i am, which my EREK lets me. For the most part this elevation knob does as well, sometimes when you over travel a tad (has probably a .05 wiggle in it) you might have to back track just a tad to get it on the point. Idk it's a picky detail to complain about honestly. The locking mechanism on the turret does have a little mush but does work very well. The clicks are very tactile and audible. I really like the detent that gives a clunk feeling when you dial half a rotation (5 mils). It's a very sharp clunk i might add that almost feels like a zero stop would. Then after you've dialed one revolution (10 mils) there is a revolution indicator on top of the elevation knob which i also like.
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The windage knob has a much more precise click to it than the elevation knob due to not being a locking knob. It's also capped which i thought would be a downside for me but it's not bothering me at all.
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The eyepiece is very very easy to get behind and turn. Turning the magnification ring doesn't turn the entire ocular either just the ring which is good IMO.
(note the pictures aren't the comparison of glass quality at 500yds, just reticle pics. Pics really don't do justice to clarity)
Comparing it side by side at 500yds with my SN-3, they're very close in clarity. Resolution and FOV favors the USO IMO. It's hard to hold the MK6 steady so i'll be able to get some better pictures when it's on the rifle. Though phone pics are basically to show the reticle, and even then mine are crappy compared to the OP's. It's brighter than my SN-3 but i feel or am used to the dark tone of my SN-3 which i like. On most accounts they're pretty equal to my eyes. I think glass beyond a price range becomes a personal and negligible quality to be honest. My mark 4 has good glass to me, for some it wouldn't suite their taste. As i said i really have come to like the FFP TMR reticle more so than i thought i would.

GAP reticle and TMR reticle at 9x
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17x and 18x
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I felt at higher magnification my SN-3 had better resolution at least to my eyes. The larger field of view is a big plus on the SN-3 also. Overall glass quality is very similar to my eyes.


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Black op, it looks like the marks on the elevation turret don't line up with the arrow. Is this the case or just looks like that in the pic? Thanks. Great pics and review. I really want one of these for my new build. I've seen some in the classifieds for around $1600 and can't figure why they are sold. Wish I had the coin right now.
 
Chad here's a link to my review. It has a video showing the 'slop' on the elevation turret.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...87038-leupold-3-18x44mm-tmr-quick-review.html

The turret freely rotates (without pushing the unlock buttons) about as much distance as what is between 2, 0.1 mil ticks. HOWEVER, that movement does not change POI unless you push the unlock buttons and go to the next audible click. It can lead to confusion, though. My fix is to always "work up" to adjustments, so if I'm going from 4.3 down to 2.7 for example, I'll go all the way down to about 2.3-2.5, then come back up to 2.7. If I were to go straight down to 2.7 it would actually look like I went to 2.6, then the marking ring would slop back to 2.7.

Hopefully that makes sense.
 
Leupold Mark 6 3-18x40mm, 34mm Tube, w/ TMR Pics and Review..

I actually got the elevation knob to line up well with the arrow on the scope body when increasing elevation. I had to release the set screw and move it back playing into the mush of the turret if that makes any sense. Regularly for my scope at least, you dial 10 clicks/1mil and the 1 mil hash would be sitting behind the arrow on the scope body. As if the knob over travels. Dialing down the clicks and travel would line up perfectly. After messing with it, it now lines up fine dialing up but dialing down I have some under travel. It's like you have to set the knob to click audibly and line up according to how mushy the turret is.

They are mushy without the knob depressed they can wiggle a good .05 mils which can be very confusing if your hashes aren't lining up and your not counting clicks. As some have mentioned the elevation turret seems to glide through the travel too, sometimes it's hard to keep track of audible clicks. Might get a video to show. Really need to mess with one to see if it's going to be a problem. Ryan (diesalgeek) hasn't had any problems with his and he's taken it out to 1300yds.

This is also coming from a person who has never used locking turrets so I might be a bit scrutinizing. As I understand the mush comes with locking turrets. But I've gotten mine to dial up appropriately now.

You can always look for the M5C2 turrets which supposedly don't have any play and only lock on the zero.
 
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Been looking at these a while, but really need illumination for predator hunting. Why is the illuminated (117496) so damn expensive? It's like $1k more than the standard version!!! Hard to pay $3k for a scope...
Anyone here have the illuminated version?
I love the scope, but my two other scopes have illumination of some sort and it really aids in POA during low light conditions in the woods during dawn/dusk. I'm sure hunters can relate. FFP is not real user friendly during dusk/dawn. Cross hairs disappear in the foliage. Illumination is a practical solution to get all around use; long range day use and hunters light use.
 
I was a bit shocked to see the difference in FOV in Blackops' pictures. But upon a second look, is it just me or does it seem like the magnification is different between the two scopes in the 9x and 18x shots. Look closely at the 9x pictures. Although they're cropped to the same size in the forum, the camera is either placed closer to the one picture or slightly zoomed. You can tell from the size of the window blinds in the background. Now compare the telephone pole sizes in the scope. The Leupold's actually looks larger than the USO's. If anything, you would expect the USO's telephone pole to appear larger since it was taken with camera which is positioned closer or slightly zoomed in. The same thing can be seen in the 18x picture of the white fence posts.

I believe the discrepency that Blackops noted in the FOV is largely a result of not having the scopes at equal magnification. I trust Blackops had the scopes set to the correct magnification on his end, perhaps the markings aren't accurate on one or both of the scopes which is pretty common.
 
Leupold Mark 6 3-18x40mm, 34mm Tube, w/ TMR Pics and Review..

I would be willing to bet it's more of a phone camera issue than the settings. It was near impossible to get reticle pics with this iPhone versus my galaxy. The SN-3 only goes to 17x so it actually is at less magnification than the leupy when both are maxed. I'll have to look at them again next time I'm home. Hard to make any substantial claim with a camera other than show you the reticles. Though it could be that I didn't have the reticles in he same places. He mark 6 was stacked on pots and towels lol didn't have it on a rifle.

The SN-3 had a larger fov from looking through it IIRC. Glass for the most part was equal IMO. That said the SN-3 retained it's clarity much better at 17x than the mark 6 does at 18x. Image gets a tad cloudy to my eyes.

Took me some time to get the turret to my liking on the mark 6. I'm excited to use it though.


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Anyone that has their MK6 on hand (mines currently at home i'm at college) what's the OD of the objective? About to order some rings from APA and remembered i had wanted .856 but i'm wondering if that will be too low.
 
I am looking forward to getting mine from Scott this week, and I am building my SPR upper tomorrow. It will be a good week. I missed a 34 mm Larue SPR mount here by a few minutes yesterday. That is all I need now.
 
Found out i don't start work until Monday so came home today. Idk if i'll get to shoot this weekend as i'm kind of swamped studying. That said i went ahead and mounted it up. Jered did my bolt knob and DBM for my rifle, he does excellent work and his rings are no exception. Seriously i will probably be sticking with APA rings from now on. They're ultra light compared to my Badgers and very low profile. Love the locking mechanism. As you can see they clear though. The .856s were perfect the height is just like my .832s with my SN-3. Not sure which ring goes back or front so i might have that backwards but looking at them they seemed to be the exact same. Depending on your bolt knob thickness/length, and the height your base raises your scope above the action you will want to make sure that it clears. Mine clears just like my USO did which is fine but it is close. I can post some measurements tonight if anyone wants as to my base height and so on. I run a USO base and i think it's a good bit thicker than most. Seems that way anyhow.
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Found out i don't start work until Monday so came home today. Idk if i'll get to shoot this weekend as i'm kind of swamped studying. That said i went ahead and mounted it up. Jered did my bolt knob and DBM for my rifle, he does excellent work and his rings are no exception. Seriously i will probably be sticking with APA rings from now on. They're ultra light compared to my Badgers and very low profile. Love the locking mechanism. As you can see they clear though. The .856s were perfect the height is just like my .832s with my SN-3. Not sure which ring goes back or front so i might have that backwards but looking at them they seemed to be the exact same. Depending on your bolt knob thickness/length, and the height your base raises your scope above the action you will want to make sure that it clears. Mine clears just like my USO did which is fine but it is close. I can post some measurements tonight if anyone wants as to my base height and so on. I run a USO base and i think it's a good bit thicker than most. Seems that way anyhow.

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Is your scope cap on sideway or does the whole eye piece turn ? I thought I read it doesn't turn ?
 
I'm ultra interested in this Mark 6 3-18x44 and was wondering if anyone has mounted one using a one piece 20 MOA rail on a Rem 700 long action. I would be putting it on a Sendero II .300 WM. Based on the very detailed photos of the short action shown, I'm quite concerned a long action rail wouldn't have enough clearance between a rail's end and the objective. I really don't want to go any higher than medium height rings.

I've tried using the Mil-Rad scope ring calculator but being I haven't purchased the rings and base, I don't know what figures to plug in for the base measurements. I have not narrowed down the ring manufacture just yet so that part is open. Low's would be great but I'm sure that probably isn't going to be possible - Fingers crossed for mediums. Otherwise, a longer NF NXS 5.5-22x50 is next up to bat on my list.