Lighten a Tikka bolt lift with new shroud?

[Freediver111]

Just picked up a Tikka T3. It’s new and unfired. One thing I noticed is the bolt lift is a bit on the heavy side, and it has sort of a two position bolt closing. Not the smoothest bolt opening/closing, but the action is very smooth.
The T3 still has the plastic bolt shroud, and I’m wondering if replacing it with a machined shroud from a company like Mountain Tactical lightens the bolt lift? They’re pricey at $60 a pop for a shroud, but I’m will to spend to cash if they help lighten the bolt lift.
I built a custom off a Savage action I had laying around, and while the action is not as smooth, the bolt lift/closing on the savage seems lighter and smoother. That being said, I spent a fair bit of money on that thing, including having the bolt lift lightened, firing pin bushed, bolt fluted, longer bolt handle, etc. It also has over 1,000 rounds down it, so it has worn smooth over time compared to this new Tikka action.
Thanks for any tips if you have them.

 

[MotorOilMcCall]

A shroud alone won't help... running it, a lot, will. The plastic shroud is prone to breaking, more-so during hunting than at a range. If you get debris in there, it could end a hunt, or ruin an expected shot that never goes boom. $60 is relatively inexpensive for that peace of mind. It's about reliability, not performance, for that particular part.

 

[Lawnboi]

A shroud won’t help but a new big ass bolt handle will.

I’d also replace the plastic shroud just to have one less piece of plastic.

 

[Freediver111]

Roger, so basically they’re known to be on the stiff side, but more time cycling and a longer bolt handle helps.

 

[MotorOilMcCall]

Exactly. Also a big reason why the Sterk bolt knobs are so popular.

 

[viking78]

Sterk is awesome.

 

[Freediver111]

The swept back Sterks have always looked a little goofy to me, but if having a swept back handle helps a lot with bolt lift, I’ll buy one soon enough.

 

[Oregonmuley]

You can also order a T3X aluminum bolt shroud directly from Beretta, it fits the T3 just fine and is a nice replacement for the plastic one and I think a bit cheaper than some others.

 

[Freediver111]

You can also order a T3X aluminum bolt shroud directly from Beretta, it fits the T3 just fine and is a nice replacement for the plastic one and I think a bit cheaper than some others.

I saw those. They’re around $35-$40 I think. I was going to get one of those, but wanted to check if I’d be missing out by not going with something “custom” other than looks. If function remains the same, I’ll always opt for the cheaper option. I’m about function, not looks, especially on a hunting rig.

 

[Harman117]

Look into the shrouds that have a spring inside them that apply pressure to the firing pin assembly. (I think)

I too have heard that with spring pressure comes alignment and the alignment will reduce what you are describing.

Back when I had a Tikka it was on the list to try it out, but I never got around to it so I can't comment personally on its effectivness or not.

The following video talks about a specific shroud with a spring (at some point)



Which might be what you're looking for

 

[EnsEntium]

I have a CTR and even with the larger OEM bolt handle I felt a significant improvement in perceived bolt lift with the Sterk swept ball.

 

[Oregonmuley]

Hey since your a fellow ifisher I do have an extra Mountain Tactical shroud - its yours for $25 bucks if you want it. Thinks its the Gen 2 version and full disclosure it rattles a little bit sometimes when installed but isn't plastic Send me a PM over on ifish if you want it.
Welcome to the cult of Pharmseller!!

 

[Freediver111]

Hey since your a fellow ifisher I do have an extra Mountain Tactical shroud - its yours for $25 bucks if you want it. Thinks its the Gen 2 version and full disclosure it rattles a little bit sometimes when installed but isn't plastic Send me a PM over on ifish if you want it.
Welcome to the cult of Pharmseller!!

Will do! Although I can’t officially be in the Pharmseller club since I don’t own a 7-08.
thanks again! PM on ifish coming.

 

[Stooxie]

Look into the shrouds that have a spring inside them that apply pressure to the firing pin assembly. (I think)

I too have heard that with spring pressure comes alignment and the alignment will reduce what you are describing.

Back when I had a Tikka it was on the list to try it out, but I never got around to it so I can't comment personally on its effectivness or not.

The following video talks about a specific shroud with a spring (at some point)

Which might be what you're looking for

I'm 99% sure the Beretta shrouds come with the spring. I'm also pretty sure that it can't possibly do much. Not sure what it's for.

-Stooxie

 

[SWWI Shooter]

Bear in mind that Tikka has a shorter bolt lift (70 degree if memory serves) than many other rifles ( 90 degree lift). Since the rifle is being cocked by this bolt turning action, the shorter distance requires the same work to be done within a shorter throw. To do that, the force required to accomplish it will need to be greater. No way to get around that other than as others have said, put a longer lever on it to reduce the perceived force required and make sure the bearing surfaces are well lubed.

 

[Oregonmuley]

Kinda like this bolt handle/knob combo on my 7-08. Works for me

 

[Lawnboi]

FYI the spring is supposed to be there. It is on 3 shrouds that I got straight from the factory with my tikkas. Without the spring it just makes the shroud fit loose and rattle in the bolt, it does not effect performance or bolt cocking. My buddy lost his spring and has just run it, it continues to stack ammo like it did with the spring.

I’ll also add t grease your lugs, that helps it feel a little better.

 

[Freediver111]

FYI the spring is supposed to be there. It is on 3 shrouds that I got straight from the factory with my tikkas. Without the spring it just makes the shroud fit loose and rattle in the bolt, it does not effect performance or bolt cocking. My buddy lost his spring and has just run it, it continues to stack ammo like it did with the spring.

I’ll also add t grease your lugs, that helps it feel a little better.

Interesting. The plastic shroud on my T3 doesn’t have a spring to my recollection. I’ll check again tonight. I did add a little TW25B to some areas last night, including the lugs, which helped a little.

 

[Lawnboi]

Interesting. The plastic shroud on my T3 doesn’t have a spring to my recollection. I’ll check again tonight. I did add a little TW25B to some areas last night, including the lugs, which helped a little.

I can only speak to the 4 t3x Iv had and disassembled. They all had springs in their metal shrouds

 

[Harman117]

The T3X's probably have the spring with the factory metal shroud now as Lawnboi says. The Tikka I had was a T3X and I believe there was a spring as well.

What I am suggesting (purely from the experience of others) is that a different spring/shroud can alter functions of the rifle. (cock on close characteristics and trigger weight) Maybe asking this specific question in the gunsmith portion of this forum might yield a better explanation.

Where I heard of this with Tikka rifles:

Watch at the 4:35 mark and after.


Example of another similar experience.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-bolt-shroud-fitting.187154/

Again, this was one thing I wanted to play around with when I had mine, but never ended up following through.

 

[TurdFerguson]

The T3X's probably have the spring with the factory metal shroud now as Lawnboi says. The Tikka I had was a T3X and I believe there was a spring as well.

What I am suggesting (purely from the experience of others) is that a different spring/shroud can alter functions of the rifle. (cock on close characteristics and trigger weight) Maybe asking this specific question in the gunsmith portion of this forum might yield a better explanation.

Where I heard of this with Tikka rifles:

Watch at the 4:35 mark and after.


Example of another similar experience.

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/tikka-t3-bolt-shroud-fitting.187154/

Again, this was one thing I wanted to play around with when I had mine, but never ended up following through.

Can the Tikka use a Sako 85 bolt shroud? Also who made the stock in that video?

 

[Freediver111]

Been playing with it for a while at home. Took it apart, took the firing pin out, cleaned everything and gave some spots a light touch of TW25B. Seemed to work better, or at least more or less the same. Decided to cycle it a bunch and now I’m having a very hard and stiff bolt lift. Almost like the bolt head is scraping metal. Can’t see any metal shavings, but it’s tighter and making a bit of a grinding sound now. Took it apart again and still doing it. Only on the initial bolt lift.
My guess is the headspace to too tight. It feeds factory ammo fine, but my reloads won’t close the bolt.
SinceI bought it used, although it’s unfired, looks like I’ll have to have a local smith check it out.

 

[Freediver111]

Ok, I was way off. It’s not the headspace. The back of the bolt where the firing indicator slides into the deep recess. That’s where it’s tight. I added some TW25B to the recess in the back of the bolt and it’s smoother, and not making grinding noise. I think a light polish to that area is in order.

 

[Freediver111]

 

[viking78]

The swept back Sterks have always looked a little goofy to me, but if having a swept back handle helps a lot with bolt lift, I’ll buy one soon enough.

Look Accuracy International rifles, they aint goofy, and has just like that swept bolt handle

 

[Sieg]

I have this very low mileage one I'll sell you if you're interested, let me know.

 

[Gee Kay]

I would never go back to the girl sized bolt handle if you paid me. Love my Sterk swept handle!

 

[Harman117]

Can the Tikka use a Sako 85 bolt shroud? Also who made the stock in that video?

I'm sorry, I do not have an answer to either of your questions.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

Anarchy Outdoors also has a variety of quality Tikka bolt handles and knobs. When I decided it was time to ditch the puny little handle on my T3X Varmint, Sterks were out of stock wherever I looked. The AO handle and knob are excellent. If I had it to do over again, I'd get the standard size knob; the extended one is a bit too long for my preference.

And yes, it makes running the bolt way easier.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I sold my old tikka CTR with sterk handle a couple years ago. Open and close were super light and smooth. Just picked up a used ctr with sterk handle and for some reason, every 10th-15th cycle on the bolt, the bolt close is heavy on an empty chamber. It feels like when youve got a bullet that is seated too long and is jamming the lands. Sent the bolt to LRI to have it fluted and mentioned it to them. They said it might be the mountain tactical shroud being out of spec and is rubbing on the bolt body in the rear. I relieved some of it with a dremel and im not 100% convinced that its the culprit. anyone experienced this before? Like i said, its at random times when dry firing. It will close easy most times but then randomly feel heavy. My old tikka never did this.

 

[XLR308]

Last year I pulled my T3 out of the safe and opened the bolt and the plastic shroud fell to the floor in two pieces.
I ordered an aluminum one from MT and after installation the bolt was much stiffer and dragged on the rear tang.
I had to use a set of jewellers files on several places on the bottom side of the shroud that were making contact and a couple of places inside the shroud I had to use 800 grit wet/dry sand paper to releave some of those surfaces.
After that with some bolt grease added and quite a bit of cycling it has smoothed out.
I don't think this is the norm but something to be aware of.

 

[eightyeight mag]

I sold my old tikka CTR with sterk handle a couple years ago. Open and close were super light and smooth. Just picked up a used ctr with sterk handle and for some reason, every 10th-15th cycle on the bolt, the bolt close is heavy on an empty chamber. It feels like when youve got a bullet that is seated too long and is jamming the lands. Sent the bolt to LRI to have it fluted and mentioned it to them. They said it might be the mountain tactical shroud being out of spec and is rubbing on the bolt body in the rear. I relieved some of it with a dremel and im not 100% convinced that its the culprit. anyone experienced this before? Like i said, its at random times when dry firing. It will close easy most times but then randomly feel heavy. My old tikka never did this.

I have had the same issue with my mountain tactical shrouds as well.

Near as I can tell, it is the spring binding in the shroud.

When I take the spring out it never does it but then there is slop in the shroud.

I trimmed the spring down a bit and that seemed to help

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I have had the same issue with my mountain tactical shrouds as well.

Near as I can tell, it is the spring binding in the shroud.

When I take the spring out it never does it but then there is slop in the shroud.

I trimmed the spring down a bit and that seemed to help

ya know, it kind of feels like a spring binding now that i think about it. Wish i saw this before now, i ordered a AO shroud in hopes to fix it. I'll figure it out. thanks man.

 

[XLR308]

ya know, it kind of feels like a spring binding now that i think about it. Wish i saw this before now, i ordered a AO shroud in hopes to fix it. I'll figure it out. thanks man.

Look at the shroud for marks in the anodizing both were it slides into the race ways just forward of the tang and inside were it is engaged with the bolt during cocking.
I can put up a pic and show the areas mine was causing issues due to not having adequate clearance if you would like and I didn't put the spring in since I didn't see any benefit to it.
The shiny spots are the areas I had to file and hit with sandpaper that were dragging on the race ways just above the tang.
There were a couple other spots not visable without removing the shroud that were internal.

 

[Vargmat]

One word: STERK

 

[Freediver111]

One word: STERK

Just bought a Sterk. It’s on the way.
That still doesn’t completely solve my issue. Remember I found out last night it’s the cocking ramp grinding against the cocking indicator lip. See pic. I can either polish and remove some metal, leave it and use some lube and keep working the action, or send it to a smith that knows the issue and can polish it for me.
After I lubed the cocking ramp with TW25B the grinding/binding went away, but it’s still on the tight side.

 

[LeftyJason]

One word: STERK

The proper way to do that is @cannoncrossfire

 

[BLKWLFK9]

there is some wear on the shroud and

I have had the same issue with my mountain tactical shrouds as well.

Near as I can tell, it is the spring binding in the shroud.

When I take the spring out it never does it but then there is slop in the shroud.

I trimmed the spring down a bit and that seemed to help

Bam. Trimmed a cunt hair off the spring, cycles like it should. Made all the difference in the world. Thanks for the heads up

 

[cannoncrossfire]

The spring is used in some shrouds to remove the 'rattle' due to oversized machining tolerances - a way of making sure the shroud will fit any bolt. Sterk shrouds have tighter tolerances and no spring - a spring will introduce more friction for the sake of hiding poor/large machining tolerances. Some Tikka bolts are slightly larger or not perfectly round and can rub inside the shroud, and some new rifles will be very stiff and do need a clean and a bit of a break-in period.
The cocking ramp can be a likely cause of heavy bolt lift and polishing the two cocking surfaces can help, as well as using a small amount of grease. When the rifle is brand new you might notice where grease is applied by the factory - once the rifle is cleaned or used, the grease might disappear and that's when you get more and more friction/heavy bolt lift.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

@cannoncrossfire , you got the best bolt handles for tikkas on the market, my friend. Second one for me

 

[eightyeight mag]

there is some wear on the shroud and


Bam. Trimmed a cunt hair off the spring, cycles like it should. Made all the difference in the world. Thanks for the heads up

Awesome.
Glad I could help

 

[Mxracer532]

Kinda like this bolt handle/knob combo on my 7-08. Works for me

Who fluted the bolt? I wanna do this same style on my Tikka. Is the bolt cerakoted then fluted to get the black??

 

[Oregonmuley]

Karl Feldkamp @ Kampfeld Customs does that flute - its his Ti flute. He flutes the bolt then he Cerakotes the flutes in graphite black or I suppose any color you wanted.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

I found just being a man helps

 

[Mxracer532]

Karl Feldkamp @ Kampfeld Customs does that flute - its his Ti flute. He flutes the bolt then he Cerakotes the flutes in graphite black or I suppose any color you wanted.

Awesome! Thanks.