My fav is the 4-16X42 ATACR but also have the 4-16X50 ATACR and one 3.5ACOG for shits and giggles. Yea, I got a 1-8 on my AR, but id stick with more magnification.
PB
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
PB
Makes you wonder if they are struggling with sourcing material and putting out less than ideal products that got shipped to BFE before. That really does suck because I am a fanboy and you just dont want to see that released.
PB
After reading for the past few days, this is what I'm going with. Who's selling one with a T3 reticle now
I’m currently running the MIL-XTAfter reading for the past few days, this is what I'm going with. Who's selling one with a T3 reticle now
Love that reticle, but addicted to being able to hold wind and elevation which keeps me loyal to the T3. Really can't go wrong with either imo.
I wonder if they changed something on the machine or they just milled down an existing upper
+1
I have a 1-8 ATACR right now that's just not enough. I snagged a Steiner Military 3-12x50 off the PX to try, but damn that thing is huge. 4-16x42 ATACR is just perfect for this platform.
I've also just sourced a Slash heavy buffer since the 13.5" 308 is a jumpy sumbitch. Will report back once I finally get to the range.
Anyone see these kind of markings inside of a upper before? I’m looking to purchase this from someone and just want to make sure.The seller said where the beetle sits there’s machining mark
Vivacious Stallion
Public Health Authority for the Shadow Gov
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
The buffer will make a pretty significant difference. Personally, I think all these guns should come with the heavy buffer from the factory if they won't/can't put some kind of duty grade adjustable GB on them.
Even when I was using a 50/50 BRT tube on a 16" barrel and the Slash buffer I only had 1 failure to eject out of 100 FGMM when not using a silencer. This was in 0°F weather and the gun being left outside over a 6 hour time period while I flew my drone from inside the nice heated car and shot other stuff. For some reason you don't like the buffer I'm sure you can sell it on here easily anyhow.
I'm tempted to get the 100% suppressed BRT tube, even for shooting unsuppressed, and just lower the buffer weight from H3 -> H1 until I get reliable bolt lock on the last round. Anyone think this is stupid before I do this?
4-16x42 really seems like the consensus sweet spot. At risk of outing myself as a Tremor3 lover, someone convince me to go for the Mil XT on this scope. I don't use the milling features on my T3, but enjoy the wind dots and ability to bracket with them on the fly. Can someone chime in with how they think about and hold wind on the XT? Would be nice to go to a slightly cleaner reticle
Last edited:
Both are hold over reticles ...
As you stated the difference is the T3 has the wind dots ... that gives you the ability to measure wind in MPH, think about wind changes (due to sounds or vegetation movements etc.) in MPH ... hold in MPH and shoot. No need for Ballistics calculator involvement for wind changes. That's the main plus for the T3 over other hold over reticles in my usage.
T3 is far too busy for me with features I’ll never use.
If you want to shoot torso sized targets at moderate ranges very quickly it’s awesome.
The advantage of the T3 is just not dialing. You just hold windage and elevation. Theoretically it can be faster, but I have not seen that to be 100% true in most situations. I guess it's just what you prefer. It works for some while doesn't work for others. One benefit is you don't get lost in turrets. As in you don't have to keep dialing back to 0. Or have to remember where you are for follow up shots.
I think NF hit a home run with the Mil-xt.
I just wish it had a small tenths area for milling targets.
As you stated the difference is the T3 has the wind dots ... that gives you the ability to measure wind in MPH, think about wind changes (due to sounds or vegetation movements etc.) in MPH ... hold in MPH and shoot. No need for Ballistics calculator involvement for wind changes. That's the main plus for the T3 over other hold over reticles in my usage.
T3 is far too busy for me with features I’ll never use.
If you want to shoot torso sized targets at moderate ranges very quickly it’s awesome.
The advantage of the T3 is just not dialing. You just hold windage and elevation. Theoretically it can be faster, but I have not seen that to be 100% true in most situations. I guess it's just what you prefer. It works for some while doesn't work for others. One benefit is you don't get lost in turrets. As in you don't have to keep dialing back to 0. Or have to remember where you are for follow up shots.
I think NF hit a home run with the Mil-xt.
I just wish it had a small tenths area for milling targets.
Last edited:
Agreed. With the given that I'm really not very good at this game, I really like the Mil-XT.
I've gotten several other novices into the game with the Mil-XT as well. While the 2.5-20 NX8 has many well documented limitations, it's a good way to introduce people to higher end, precision oriented optics.
I had a t3 in a mk5 3.6-18 that I traded into. That reticle will get completely lost on a wooded background and especially if it’s dark. The mil xt has more visible posts at low mag coming in from 9, 12 and 3 that help draw my eye to the center.
For wind I use the gun mph formula. Proof it out for yourself but generally the first number of the g1 bc is your number. Off the top of my head I know a 140eld at 2725ish is a 6mph gun. A 6mph full value wind pushes it .1 mil per 100yds. So 6mph at 800 would be a .8 hold. 18 mph at 700 would be 2.1 and so on. Not quite as intuitive as the dots but I have a hard enough time seeing impacts and splash without having those in the way.
If anyone was wondering, with some fitting the 340mm RRS Rlock rail will fit the 15.5” upper.
Attachments
Appreciate the datapoint on reticle visibility on more veg backgrounds in addition to your approach to wind holds. My only shooting is in a complete desert due to location, so I've had no opportunity to see a T3 with darker backgrounds, but what you're saying makes complete sense. I take it if you were buying an ATACR 4-16 tomorrow, you're choosing the Mil XT over the T3? I'm very tempted to try and make the switch
I misspoke. The mil-xt does not have a post coming down from 12 o’clock but the ones from 3 and 9 are enough for me.
I won’t say I’d never try a t3 again but if something like a mil-xt or vortex ebr-7c/d is an option then that’s what I’m picking. I’m basically standardizing on those two reticles outside of lpvo’s.
I won’t say I’d never try a t3 again but if something like a mil-xt or vortex ebr-7c/d is an option then that’s what I’m picking. I’m basically standardizing on those two reticles outside of lpvo’s.
This is the 15” mrgg rail with 12” area419 mlok arca rail. Design wise, I hope they omit the bottom qd socket at some pint. It makes mounting some accessories more difficult. Case in point if you want to use the area419 arca you will need to add clearance to the arca rail to get around the qd socket.
Attachments
I was using that rail before. I contoured the rear part to butt up against the barrel clamp area. I only had to put a light chamfer on the front for the qd socket. I just think r-lock is a bit more elegant solution.
They’re going to release more but I’m not sure when. The newest ones will be like a 15.25” though to work with 16” barrels and suppressors.
Last edited:
Recent NRA show showcasing the so called Estonia DMR. I understand there are a few piston .308 barrels out in the wild from last year.
I think the gun would have look better with an integrated front sight on the gas block.
I think the gun would have look better with an integrated front sight on the gas block.
Zero will get you past 500 easily, but if you ever decide to get a barrel setup for longer range stuff you might regret the zero moa mount.
This looks tits!! Do you have a some pics of this as a completed rifle? I love the KAC URX 3.1 and this is very reminiscent of that rail! What would this cost to do?Not an MWS, but a quad MRP that I took to the mill last week to fit some KAC rail panels.
Edit: particularly on the 7.62 model
Last edited:
I do plan on getting the 15" upper and 6.5 or 18" 7.62 barrel eventually. Will be getting 20MOA for certain.
You could try this but what are you not getting done and what are you trying to achieve? I have the heavy buffer and told Clint I would shoot suppressed 100% of the time. It locks back most of the time but I don’t care bc I run suppressed all the time. So it’s still hot enough to be very reliable.
It seems like you could try this, not totally stupid and will only know after you try. Nothing is fool proof with various ammo etc. Let us know what you try and how goes. Good luck.
PB
Just wanted to share my updated/new 6.5cm DMR.
Vivacious Stallion
Public Health Authority for the Shadow Gov
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
@HeightOverBore If you are going that route you might want to consider a JP silent captured spring unit. Might give you a little more adjustability. Or just have Dave Wilson convert the gas block to being adjustable.
Vivacious Stallion
Public Health Authority for the Shadow Gov
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Supporter
Hopefully everyone is getting out there
Seems to go bang (albeit quietly) like any other gun we build.
Shoots and cycles well. Seems to destroy brass though, so I have a bit of tweaking to do.
I put a Spuhr 0 MOA mount on my mine. No problem hitting steel at 700 yards with a 16" barrel. Pushing a 168 VLD Berger just under 2600 fps. These are obviously not ELD rifles. Mine is great from CQB to 700 yards!
Is that the new Estonia grip?? If so how is it different than the old model?
It is the grip that came on the lower when I bought it about 6 months ago. Standard, I guess.
It’s more of a hard rubber or plastic vs the rubber ergo. Seems like it’s a little bigger and has a space in the grip for a round counter iirc.
@unclemoak on the top build, what optic accessory mount are you using to run the RMR at 12 o'clock? I have the same geissele mount and greatly prefer replacing the top scope mount cap like you're doing, as opposed to a separate ring around the optic.I've used lots of SL and SLS stocks on my guns. I think the SL is a simple stock for a AR15, but the SLS has a slight bit more heft to it, so I think it makes more sense to put in on AR10's.
As for grips. I do like simple MOE grips. They feel nice in my larger hands and they are cheap. Some of the other models have weird angles or are very small, which I don't care for.
That's a really cool setup. I know nothing of AMTAC, but over barrel suppressors seem like a great application here.
I bought it years ago when they first came out. According to my FFL, they have sold the company to someone else and it’s been a nightmare dealing with them. I can’t honestly recommend it knowing the state of that company now.
Dare I say its a grown mans Mk12? Lol
I apologize for the pic quality but I finally have the Ole girl running right. Buffer tube had the first row of threads fucked up. Grabbed one from LMT and we're in business. Went to a local range yesterday with a 100yd bunker and the Hornady 178gr HPBT are winners.
