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sweet so they don't canabalize the upper, im sparing no expense on my mws. I was able to snag a lower so im building it piece by piece.
I have a 16" that was cut down from 20". Not sure what specific setup you're looking for, but I can speak to my setup. Granted it's not "pure", with a non-LMT lower, but the part that achieves accuracy is all LMT. I an try to find some pics of range reports. My 16" is a solid MOA shooter. It's not as accurate as my 18" precision build though.
What I really need to do is start reading post dates. Holy late to the dance batman.... I just realized I responded to a 2010 post. lol DOH!!!!
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Mind shooting me a PM with the details? I could use a few for when I'm doing some prone shooting.
Nice Setup,I have a 16" that was cut down from 20". Not sure what specific setup you're looking for, but I can speak to my setup. Granted it's not "pure", with a non-LMT lower, but the part that achieves accuracy is all LMT. I an try to find some pics of range reports. My 16" is a solid MOA shooter. It's not as accurate as my 18" precision build though.
What I really need to do is start reading post dates. Holy late to the dance batman.... I just realized I responded to a 2010 post. lol DOH!!!!
Are you running a Mega Maten Ambi lower?
I believe that is the only lower compatible besides the KAC.
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Yes, it is the MATEN ambi lower. The KAC lower also works. From the looks the LaRue Tactical OBR lower "might" work. I've read folks say it doesn't, but honestly, I read a lot of what turned out to be "internet lore" where guy were saying the Mega MATEN would not work. My rear takedown pin is a pure bitch to get in though, but it goes in, and there's no issue or damage there. I'll tell you that from a "will it shoot" perspective, my Aero Precision lower worked with the LMT upper. Yep, there was a gap. No I would not run that in any normal circumstance I can think of. What made me try it was thinking about all those worthless uppers and lowers that have had all the structural metal cut out. Skeletonized I think they call it. The BCG actioned without a single issue, so for the sake of science, I tried it. And it worked. Shot as well as anything, but again, not anything I would run normally sit.
Here's a pic of it. (again this was just done in the name of "will it work" redneck science.
Oddly enough, the rear takedown pin and pivot pin both went in smooth as butter.
Yes, it is the MATEN ambi lower. The KAC lower also works. From the looks the LaRue Tactical OBR lower "might" work. I've read folks say it doesn't, but honestly, I read a lot of what turned out to be "internet lore" where guy were saying the Mega MATEN would not work. My rear takedown pin is a pure bitch to get in though, but it goes in, and there's no issue or damage there. I'll tell you that from a "will it shoot" perspective, my Aero Precision lower worked with the LMT upper. Yep, there was a gap. No I would not run that in any normal circumstance I can think of. What made me try it was thinking about all those worthless uppers and lowers that have had all the structural metal cut out. Skeletonized I think they call it. The BCG actioned without a single issue, so for the sake of science, I tried it. And it worked. Shot as well as anything, but again, not anything I would run normally sit.
Here's a pic of it. (again this was just done in the name of "will it work" redneck science.
LOl,I know why your rear takedown pin was a bitch to get in and out.i had the same problem with my MWS upper and my KAC lower.
Not a secret sauce,..the LMT MWS uppers differ a little from alot of other uppers where the upper and lower surfaces meet,the uppers have 2 very small tiny boss like squares miiled into the upper receiver right behind the front pivot that i had to slowly and carefully filed down to take away the tension off the rear take down pin.i used a very small fine file on mine and filed a little at a time till the upper and lower came together even and still had a little bit of tension on the rear take down pin.after that the upper and lower were still a tight fit ...check your upper and see if it has the small bosses.Did you just deal with it or is there a secret sauce fix?
I know this doesn't really address your question but the 24" came out pretty recently so probably not many out there. I know they didn't show it when I purchased my 20" just a few months back. I really like the handiness of the 20" and after about 100 rounds it really shined. It is 1/2 moa very regularly and always well below moa. Velocities run 2750 with 140 ELDM's - no pressure signs and no "dropped" primers. I've been very happy with it. Just FYI...
Thanks for the response, I’ve been trying to sell my 16” CL LMT for a while but will most likely keep it due to lack of interest and plan on getting a 6.5 barrel for it. I will probably back order the 24” barrel.
LM650B220S - it's a hammer - ordered straght from LMT a few months ago. Not sure who makes LMT barrels anymore. They say it's "in house" whatever, very happy with it. Mine originally came with the .308 16" SS bbl and it is also a hammer. Based on shelf time, I think it is a Rock 5R. The 20" is not a mid length. Gas port is ahead of the handgaurd.
FTF - Failing to Feed.
My 16 inch full railer MWS has never been absolutely reliable since day one.
Probably should have thought about this earlier (2012) but shortly after buying the LMT I fell in love with bolt guns.
Wanted to get some muzzle velocity data today and I find my self straight pulling this POS on every round.
Hit the bolt release with one round in mag - Thunk - the round hangs up, I pull the charging handle back, round pops out of feed lips, I let go CH and chamber round.
Does it with LMT factory mags and brand new KAC mags I just bought.
Factory FGMM or my reloads, same, same.
My CQB spits brass like a full auto.
Where do I start to get big bro to do same?
My 16 inch full railer MWS has never been absolutely reliable since day one.
Probably should have thought about this earlier (2012) but shortly after buying the LMT I fell in love with bolt guns.
Wanted to get some muzzle velocity data today and I find my self straight pulling this POS on every round.
Hit the bolt release with one round in mag - Thunk - the round hangs up, I pull the charging handle back, round pops out of feed lips, I let go CH and chamber round.
Does it with LMT factory mags and brand new KAC mags I just bought.
Factory FGMM or my reloads, same, same.
My CQB spits brass like a full auto.
Where do I start to get big bro to do same?
Talked through the problem with Gene at LMT. Very helpful trying to track down any issues.
Tried a few things with similar results.
Rifle on the way to LMT now and Im sure it will come back a well tuned machine.
Note - I usually use metal body KAC or LMT 10 round magazines but for this test Gene suggested I tried a new from the wrap Magpul twenty and it exhibited the same FTF as the metal mags.
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yeah that’s definitely something you gotta get your gun serviced for. My LMT while it’s a gen 1 with a single extractor doesn’t do that. It’s actually something I like about the LMT is doesn’t beat up brass that bad. Mine runs with lancer, Kac and magpul mags. Currently my favorite are the lancers.
The beat up brass occurs after the initial fail to feed.
When I release the bolt stop (or slingshot) the bolt rides forward, over the top round, than stops 1/3 of the way to battery. The bolt or carrier makes a scrape mark on the brass during its forward travel.
Than when I pull back the CH to attempt a second chambering I end up with a double feed requiring I strip the mag from the rifle and I think that is when the shoulders of the round get wrapped by the bolt lugs.
I think I bought my rifle in the heat of the late 2012/2013 period when AR makers couldnt get ARs out the door fast enough. Perhaps the part of the bolt designed to catch the case head and feed it is a hair out of spec.
They will make it right.
Occurs with LMT, Knights and Magpul mags.
The diagnostics of my problem - result - owner error.
1. Immediately upon purchase of my MWS, brand new, I went to a Magpul PRS rifle tube set up. Kept SOPMOD parts to side for future use.
2. Bought a CQB with fixed stock which I changed it with my MWS tube/SOPMOD parts.
3. Back in January this year decided I hated he PRS on my MWS and bought an LMT SOPMOD off PX here. Bought an LMT buffer tube from LMT for my MWS because the ringingly tube was on my CQB. THE LMT parts site only showed one type of buffer tube. I assumed there is only one type of tube used in both rifles. Note the rifle never really ran 100% with the PRS, likely there are other incompatibility Belitung issues between the new from the wrap Colt buffer parts I used with the PRS.
4. I was wrong in ASSuming.
5. Gene noted that the tube on my MWS is 5.56 sized. Sure enough check my CQB the tube has 7 holes = .308. My MWS has 6 holes = 5.56.
6. They have offered to ship back on their dime but as its my cock up I gave them my CC to bill me. I'm out about $50 to diagnose the problem, not a huge hit.
7. When my rifle comes back I'll swap tubes and expect I'll be crushing steel.
1. Immediately upon purchase of my MWS, brand new, I went to a Magpul PRS rifle tube set up. Kept SOPMOD parts to side for future use.
2. Bought a CQB with fixed stock which I changed it with my MWS tube/SOPMOD parts.
3. Back in January this year decided I hated he PRS on my MWS and bought an LMT SOPMOD off PX here. Bought an LMT buffer tube from LMT for my MWS because the ringingly tube was on my CQB. THE LMT parts site only showed one type of buffer tube. I assumed there is only one type of tube used in both rifles. Note the rifle never really ran 100% with the PRS, likely there are other incompatibility Belitung issues between the new from the wrap Colt buffer parts I used with the PRS.
4. I was wrong in ASSuming.
5. Gene noted that the tube on my MWS is 5.56 sized. Sure enough check my CQB the tube has 7 holes = .308. My MWS has 6 holes = 5.56.
6. They have offered to ship back on their dime but as its my cock up I gave them my CC to bill me. I'm out about $50 to diagnose the problem, not a huge hit.
7. When my rifle comes back I'll swap tubes and expect I'll be crushing steel.
Wish you would have mentioned the buffer tube/stock swap causing the initial malfunctions and I'm sure you could have gotten your answer here. Several of us, I believe, have seen a b tube/stock change effect accuracy and reliability on many of the LR 308's and AR 10 rifles. They can be picky and one has to be careful when switching out any part on them. Glad you ultimately got it diagnosed and hope it's back running 100% soon. Classy move to ante up for the shipping. Now, rock on...
Didnt even dawn on me the buffer issue as when I bought it from the LMT site they only listed one buffer tube type. I assumed both sized rifles used similar.
Gene asked if the rifle was bought used and though it was bought from a different owner it was unused and unchanged until I got it.
Even with the PRS stock though the rifle was finicky. I ran a slash heavy buffer when I was running the PRS.
When I get the rifle back and swap everything back about I bet it will be fine.
I'll have to measure mine again but, I believe the b tube is 7.75" instead of the standard 7" carbine. Slash sold me a heavier buff and new spring (he's familiar with the MWS) and it worked exceptionally well. Just ask him and he can hook you up. The spring and buff kit he suggested lowered recoil, increased the lock up time and improved accuracy by at least 50%. It became a half minute gun with this change. I'm very happy with it.
I used one of his setups when I had the PRS on.
Ill revisit him once I get my tubes fixed (so to speak).
Checked out the LMT site the other day. They have done a much better job on the shop/parts area. Looks like everything is listed now.
Ill revisit him once I get my tubes fixed (so to speak).
Checked out the LMT site the other day. They have done a much better job on the shop/parts area. Looks like everything is listed now.
I have a 16" that was cut down from 20". Not sure what specific setup you're looking for, but I can speak to my setup. Granted it's not "pure", with a non-LMT lower, but the part that achieves accuracy is all LMT. I an try to find some pics of range reports. My 16" is a solid MOA shooter. It's not as accurate as my 18" precision build though.
What I really need to do is start reading post dates. Holy late to the dance batman.... I just realized I responded to a 2010 post. lol DOH!!!!
No cycling issues with the cut down 20"? I have a factory 16" with a xh buffer and suppressed it's still overgassed.
No, not really. I’m using a heavy carbine buffer with a Tubb’s flatwire. No cycling issues whatsoever man. It runs great. Haven’t noticed any substantial gas in my face. When that happens I usually run a bead of high temp RTV on the horseshoe if the ch, but so far nothing has reminded me to do that. I also run it with a 762 SND-6, no issues. (Or without) Ran 175gr Federal Otm SMK to some 30 year old German ammo (147gr). However I mostly run MEN 147gr and PPU M80. One noticeable difference has been the recoil impulse. It’s definitely more than my Aero 18” 308 I built, even with the adj. GB full open. That said it’s completely manageable as a battle rifle.
Here is my newly configured LM308MWS.....
MLKMWS monolithic upper receiver for large caliber rifle platforms.
LMT® 13.5″ lightweight stainless steel 1:11.25″ RH 5R cut 7.62×51 barrel.
SCJ Ti Titan compensator (barrel and comp will be pinned and welded to meet >16" ATF reg, then Cerakoted to match)
MVP Industries 7.62 NATO ARC Stock
Hogue AR15 / M16 15 Degree Vertical No Finger Groove Piranha Grip G10
ARC mount.
Minox ZP8 TAC 1-8 x 24 scope
RRS M-LOK Adapter Plate
Ckye-Pod
The M-LOK upper and 13.5" SS lite barrel saved 1.3 lbs. Total weight of the rifle with scope and mount is now 11.4 lbs. (not including bipod) Total length collapsed is 30.5".
Range Report forthcoming.
Thanks for looking,
Rasyad
PS...someone make an offer on my CQB upper HERE.
MLKMWS monolithic upper receiver for large caliber rifle platforms.
LMT® 13.5″ lightweight stainless steel 1:11.25″ RH 5R cut 7.62×51 barrel.
SCJ Ti Titan compensator (barrel and comp will be pinned and welded to meet >16" ATF reg, then Cerakoted to match)
MVP Industries 7.62 NATO ARC Stock
Hogue AR15 / M16 15 Degree Vertical No Finger Groove Piranha Grip G10
ARC mount.
Minox ZP8 TAC 1-8 x 24 scope
RRS M-LOK Adapter Plate
Ckye-Pod
The M-LOK upper and 13.5" SS lite barrel saved 1.3 lbs. Total weight of the rifle with scope and mount is now 11.4 lbs. (not including bipod) Total length collapsed is 30.5".
Range Report forthcoming.
Thanks for looking,
Rasyad
PS...someone make an offer on my CQB upper HERE.
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Dude I'm not gonna lie that's the ugliest MWS I've ever seen and I think Karl Lewis just barfed.
With that being said It's also gotta be the lightest MWS I've ever seen. I'd still take your above setup over a scar17 any day of the week.
You built pretty much a 7.62 CQB weapon. Short barrel - check
PDW stock - check
High end 1x8 - check
BA bipod - wait whaaaaaaaaat?- Hold! Hold!
Is that just so you could take pics?
Out of curiosity, what’s the designated purpose of your MWS?
PDW stock - check
High end 1x8 - check
BA bipod - wait whaaaaaaaaat?- Hold! Hold!
Is that just so you could take pics?
Out of curiosity, what’s the designated purpose of your MWS?
Hypno02.....no worries, I am kind of a funny shape as well and the thing fits me perfectly with a range of LOP that works squared up or prone.
Robert..... The idea was ONE compact, modular rifle system for All foreseeable needs. I had my pick of weapons and the LM308MWS was it for me. At some point I will get a 20 inch 6.5 Creedmoor barrel for longer range. The Ckye-Pod stays off the rifle until needed. The Minox ZP8 scope is really awesome in the 1-4 range, daylight bright, comfortable, fast and all that. However, unless the light is just right I have learned that my eyes struggle with precision at 100 yds let alone longer distance. So the scope is on the block. I am looking at top tier 3-18 x 50mm or 56mm scopes and will run a 45 degree red dot in one configuration, and an Aimpoint or Eotech solo for CQB. Anyhow, those are my thoughts.
As an aside, I don't really have a collector bone in my body. I do care about optimizing the fit and function for me which keeps things simple. One rifle (LM308MWS), one shotgun (Benelli M4), and one side arm (HK 45c).
Rasyad
Robert..... The idea was ONE compact, modular rifle system for All foreseeable needs. I had my pick of weapons and the LM308MWS was it for me. At some point I will get a 20 inch 6.5 Creedmoor barrel for longer range. The Ckye-Pod stays off the rifle until needed. The Minox ZP8 scope is really awesome in the 1-4 range, daylight bright, comfortable, fast and all that. However, unless the light is just right I have learned that my eyes struggle with precision at 100 yds let alone longer distance. So the scope is on the block. I am looking at top tier 3-18 x 50mm or 56mm scopes and will run a 45 degree red dot in one configuration, and an Aimpoint or Eotech solo for CQB. Anyhow, those are my thoughts.
As an aside, I don't really have a collector bone in my body. I do care about optimizing the fit and function for me which keeps things simple. One rifle (LM308MWS), one shotgun (Benelli M4), and one side arm (HK 45c).
Rasyad
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I'd like to know the outcome of this, what they find, what serial number range your rifle is and anything else they say. My father's does the same exact thing although I think it's worked it's way past it now. Haven't shot it much lately so I'll have to check it out and see.
Yea, I'm an idiot. I saw his response after I asked. I'm still curious, my dads was bone stock from the dealer doing the exact same shit.
I have not heard of any that don't perform right out of the box but I'm sure they exist. If I experienced that, I'd keep shooting it for 50-100 rounds, maybe with some cheap stuff in that case, and if it was still having issues I'd call the company for an RMA. Just my .02.
Yep, fixed my fuck up and the MWS is in line waiting to be shot.
Im sure it will run fantastic.
Ill certainly be back.
Aspersions can not be cast than not rectified.
I'm anxious to see what it does for you. We had a bone stock one that I had to lube the hell out of and run it as a single shot for about 75 rounds before it would sporadically pick up a second round on its own. Then I limped through about 100 more with no more than 4 in a row of auto loading before it seemed to straighten out. I just got my 1-8 ATACR mounted up on it and I'll have to head back out with it and see how it does now. It's been a while since I shot it. I did check this morning though and it is in fact a 7 position buffer tube on it so I guess it was put together correctly.
I hear you, but I'll give you my thoughts, not that you asked, but you'll get them anyway.
My first AR build was meant to be sort of an all-purpose build. A weapon I could use in CQ, and have potential to reach out within the capabilities of the cartridge. I learned that it's just not that simple. Sure you can build a rifle that's a decent CBQ rifle and a decent precision rifle, but you can't build one that is excellent at both. I'm sure there are some who would argue that point, but that's what I've learned over the course of building and shooting. I've built stupid accurate precision AR (In .308) and I've built SBR's that I could hammer the crap out of them and they just kept going like that Energizer Bunny.I totally get your intention. I get why you chose a .308. 7.62x51 is a very common round and falls within my own "Rule of Commonality" I get why you went with a 13.5 - attempting to bridge CQ maneuverability with enough barrel for precision shots..But I would rather build a purpose-driven rifle that checked all the requirements boxes and performed those purpose-driven tasks with excellence than I would compromise and go "good enough".
Then as time or budget allowed, I would build out my second AR for any unmitigated gaps you have in your security plan or whatever it is you are building/buying for. That's my path I traveled anyway. I don't have those gaps, and I have a designated rifle that performs those tasks perfectly.
I also learned this from a SOF friend of mine who deployed with some custom built uppers he and Noveske did for his deployments. (96 mon. worth) I remember telling him my plan for "One Gun to Rule The All" and he just told me flat out, it doesn't really work that way, you can't build one perfect AR that does both CQ and precision shooting with excellence. I proved his own point out though, so I wasn't just taking his word for it, although every single bit of tactical or weapon related advice has been dead on. Either way - good luck with your stuff.
Have you ran any CQ/short distance drills with it yet?
I've been getting reasonable accuracy with the original .308Win 16" CL barrel, using 168 SMKs (FGM mainly) and 150 FMJs loaded hot but not much else in my LMT-MWS. I'm thinking about picking up a new 20" stainless 5R barrel in either .260Rem or .243Win for it, since I have custom tactical rifles in both calibers (built before the 6.5 CM was developed). Has anyone tried one of these recently and how did it perform?
Interes
Interesting...
Does it run? would like to know how it runs off with that buffer system?
Some older pics, Substitute the Gemtech 300WM for a Dead Air Sandman K, and the A2 FH for A Dead AIR MB, Add a Law tactical hindge, swapping Mk rings for a Gieslle mount, might trade the trijicon for a NF.
I honestly perfer my MWS over my SCAR. The Scar is a one trick pony, its kind of light, and it folds. Would trade it for an ECC
Interesting...
Does it run? would like to know how it runs off with that buffer system?
Some older pics, Substitute the Gemtech 300WM for a Dead Air Sandman K, and the A2 FH for A Dead AIR MB, Add a Law tactical hindge, swapping Mk rings for a Gieslle mount, might trade the trijicon for a NF.
I honestly perfer my MWS over my SCAR. The Scar is a one trick pony, its kind of light, and it folds. Would trade it for an ECC
A couple of you asked about the function of the rifle with the MVP ARC Stock. I am using the H2 buffer as recommended MVP and the rifle cycles perfectly. As you can see by the photos half the buffer lives inside the OEM LMT bolt carrier. This is one of the ways MVP is able to make the ARC stock so compact. The ARC stock uses a 2 spring design that is very quiet and effective. The rear of the bolt carrier drives against the flange of the ARC buffer. In order to open the action the BCG must be held back while depressing and holding a spring button on the bottom of the ARC stock base. (yes this is a two handed operation) Releasing the charging handle allows the BCG to return to battery while the flange of the buffer is caught and retained by the spring button catch. With the spring compressed and the buffer retained the action can be now open normally. Assembly of the action is really straight forward. Close the action, push in the rear take down pin, and cycle the BCG. When the BCG contacts the buffer and compresses the spring the retaining spring button catch releases automatically and the buffer slides back into position partially inside the rear of the Bolt carrier.
I did have a small issue that I fixed (and let MVP know about). As you can see by the images I chamfered the leading edge of the buffer on my lathe. I did this to smooth the return entry of the buffer into the rear of the bolt during assembly. As shipped, the buffer would hang up on the end of the bolt and require cycling the BCG several times before the buffer would slip into place. With the chamfer, assembly function is now 100% reliable first time every time.
Rasyad
I did have a small issue that I fixed (and let MVP know about). As you can see by the images I chamfered the leading edge of the buffer on my lathe. I did this to smooth the return entry of the buffer into the rear of the bolt during assembly. As shipped, the buffer would hang up on the end of the bolt and require cycling the BCG several times before the buffer would slip into place. With the chamfer, assembly function is now 100% reliable first time every time.
Rasyad
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I hear you, but I'll give you my thoughts, not that you asked, but you'll get them anyway.
I totally get your intention. I get why you chose a .308. 7.62x51 is a very common round and falls within my own "Rule of Commonality" I get why you went with a 13.5 - attempting to bridge CQ maneuverability with enough barrel for precision shots..But I would rather build a purpose-driven rifle that checked all the requirements boxes and performed those purpose-driven tasks with excellence than I would compromise and go "good enough".
Then as time or budget allowed, I would build out my second AR for any unmitigated gaps you have in your security plan or whatever it is you are building/buying for. That's my path I traveled anyway. I don't have those gaps, and I have a designated rifle that performs those tasks perfectly.
I also learned this from a SOF friend of mine who deployed with some custom built uppers he and Noveske did for his deployments. (96 mon. worth) I remember telling him my plan for "One Gun to Rule The All" and he just told me flat out, it doesn't really work that way, you can't build one perfect AR that does both CQ and precision shooting with excellence. I proved his own point out though, so I wasn't just taking his word for it, although every single bit of tactical or weapon related advice has been dead on. Either way - good luck with your stuff.
Have you ran any CQ/short distance drills with it yet?
Hey Robert,
I hear you and really appreciate your thoughts as well as the experience (and service) of your friend. My needs / goals may be a bit different than your operator friend. I am a life long action sport guy, I enjoy learning and take to a new sport like a project. Within this context I am a relatively new recreational shooter with one rifle looking forward to taking carbine and long distance classes. I expect to be competent (and safe of course) and will be happy having fun at whatever skill level I end up at. I understand there are optimal solutions like a pistol caliber PDW or an AR15 that will be lighter and faster on the CQB end of the spectrum, and of course all manner of bolt guns on the precision end of the spectrum. Living here in California required I make a gas gun choice before the end of 2016 that I could live with long term.
On the optic, I have settled on finding a SB 5/20 ultra short, or possibly the new Zero Compromise and running an offset red dot.
Be Well,
Rasyad
Just got back from the range after shooting a few groups with my 24" 6.5 Creedmoor LMT MWS. It's holding right around 1 MOA using Hornady 140gr American Gunner ammo. It's all I have at the current time so I'm going to run with it until I can get something else. The Chrono data I got from it was an average of 2727 FPS 92 deg F, 63% humidity and 30 in hg. I'll try and post some pics of the groups in a little bit but they are nothing to brag about. I was sweating my ass off in the heat.
Looking forward to your pics and thoughts as I am on the bubble on going with the 20" or 24' 6.5 Creedmoor barrel for the long distance option. Also emailed to see if I can get Nefarious Arms to convert a Christensen Arms CF barrel.
Rasyad
Nice shooting, how are you shooting (prone with a bipod and rear bag, off the bench with bags, something else)? I take it you like the 24" barrel, what was you thinking on length? I also have a question about recoil and muzzle rise. I understand the recoil is less with a 6.5 Creedmoor than the 308 so my questions are more about muzzle rise. What muzzzle device are you are using and are you able to spot your impacts?
My plan is to order a 20" barrel on Tuesday as I like the more compact length. My thinnking is that I am certainly going to spend more time carrying the rifle around than actually shooting out to or past 1000 yds for the next couple years. Also, I think that at my relatively novice level learninng to call the wind is going to be a much bigger factor in terms of hit probibility than the velosity difference between a 20" and 24" barrel. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Rasyad
My plan is to order a 20" barrel on Tuesday as I like the more compact length. My thinnking is that I am certainly going to spend more time carrying the rifle around than actually shooting out to or past 1000 yds for the next couple years. Also, I think that at my relatively novice level learninng to call the wind is going to be a much bigger factor in terms of hit probibility than the velosity difference between a 20" and 24" barrel. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Rasyad
