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Lookin for a 7.62x39 Bolt Gun - Options (?)
- Thread starter GS455
- Start date
Been rocking my AIA M10A2 in 7.62x39 for a few months now..borrowed my mates mk4 2.5-8x38 today.
Shoots 1moa at 100 with norinco surplus and hits steel at 500m 7/10 times when the wind isn't crazy
Shoots 1moa at 100 with norinco surplus and hits steel at 500m 7/10 times when the wind isn't crazy
OP,
You don't really need to spend that kind of time cleaning your AK's. Steaming hot water will neutralize the corrosive properties. A little soap will further ensure that. Just put it all in a kettle and dump where desired.
If you're still unsure, just try this regiment on a cheap PSA or Romy AK until you prove the concept to yourself.
Trust me; I don't full on clean my AK's after every range trip with corrosive ammo. I really only deep clean my AK's when I don't plan to shoot them for a while or after a Run'N'Gun event. No rust here, and I live in FL.
Cheers
You don't really need to spend that kind of time cleaning your AK's. Steaming hot water will neutralize the corrosive properties. A little soap will further ensure that. Just put it all in a kettle and dump where desired.
If you're still unsure, just try this regiment on a cheap PSA or Romy AK until you prove the concept to yourself.
Trust me; I don't full on clean my AK's after every range trip with corrosive ammo. I really only deep clean my AK's when I don't plan to shoot them for a while or after a Run'N'Gun event. No rust here, and I live in FL.
Cheers
did just that with m-14s right before command inspection @ PI. works well. just need careful drying and lubing.
So I finally pulled the trigger (pun intended) for an RAR. $429 + $19 shipping and didn’t get charged sales tax.
https://www.familyfirearms.com/prod....62x39mm-flat-dark-earth-16976#product_detail
I made this post on several of the forums I frequent. Scrubbed through them all, adding up the number of recommendations/feedback on the three primary models I’ve been considering. I really wanted to go with the HOWA (i.e. longer barrel, etc) but the assets of Ruger RAR overtake it (for me). Magazines were a biggie. I’d be glad to detail. No doubt plenty will be telling me my rationalizations are wrong and why. And that’s fine. Opens up debate and public learning for others to observe and make up their own mind. Not unlike the old arguments about “having” to clean up after a day shooting corrosive is no a big deal. I’ll run it to the range as outta the box first but 90% sure I’ll be going with a chassis of some kind.
https://www.familyfirearms.com/prod....62x39mm-flat-dark-earth-16976#product_detail
I made this post on several of the forums I frequent. Scrubbed through them all, adding up the number of recommendations/feedback on the three primary models I’ve been considering. I really wanted to go with the HOWA (i.e. longer barrel, etc) but the assets of Ruger RAR overtake it (for me). Magazines were a biggie. I’d be glad to detail. No doubt plenty will be telling me my rationalizations are wrong and why. And that’s fine. Opens up debate and public learning for others to observe and make up their own mind. Not unlike the old arguments about “having” to clean up after a day shooting corrosive is no a big deal. I’ll run it to the range as outta the box first but 90% sure I’ll be going with a chassis of some kind.
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Bakwa, while I appreciate your input, I have been shooting milsurps wi corrosive for years. I know how to clean up fast vs. detailed. Respectfully there seems a difference between uncasing a rifle and tossing it back in the safe (after non corrosive), uncasing and making a detour via the bench (after corrosive) for a quick number of hot-water soaked patches through the bore of a bolt gun + quick bolt/action wipe-down and "A little soap will further ensure that. Just put it all in a kettle" (???) Soap? Put it all in a kettle? Never have nor would I consider such a regimen. Either way you're breaking down, at minimum, field stripping, to rinse off the soap or at least responsibly dry off the nooks and cranies times a couple/few semi autos, is way more than what I described above.
Point is, it's an inconvenience I may not want to deal with. Relegating the stock piled corrosive to mainly bolt-gun-only makes for a faster wrap to the day. Moving forward the non-corrosive can mainly go through the semis (unless it's requisite M67 through my soon-to-be-born Tabuk Sniper LOL).
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Now on to a germane question: Chassis and magazines. One of the prevailing reasons I chose the RAR - multiple magazine options. What will my magazine options be going with the various chassis systems? I've read some would accommodate some kind of a bottom metal plate allowing use of a various broad range of mags (i.e. PMAGs, AR15 x39 mags, AKM type mags, others? Would that be for use in the original Ruger poly stock? That stock IS going away. Seems some chassis mention use of AICS mags. i.e. the KRG descriptions mentions "All you will need is an AICS pattern mag (sold separately) compatible with your caliber." MDT also says “"Designed to AICS magazines"
What exactly is: “The Accuracy International Chassis System (AICS) magazine format has become a standard detachable magazine pattern for military format sniper rifles”?
https://riflemags.co.uk/aics-magazines/
https://gunmagwarehouse.com/blog/gunwiki-what-is-an-aics-magazine/
If specified for AICS, does that mean I cannot use a stock Ruger Mini 30 mag anymore and must buy those? In the end I'd like some "affordable" double stack 10rd mags. Probably 4-6 for preloading.
If looking at the following chassis/stocks what are my magazine options? With or w/o some kind of “metal bottom plate”? Wrong question? Primary contenders for chassis/stocks are looking like.
Oryx chassis:
https://mdttac.com/oryx-chassis-system/
"Designed to AICS magazines"
Or perhaps a KRG:
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-ruger-american/
"All you will need is an AICS pattern mag (sold separately) compatible with your caliber."
Not nuts about a Magpul for this application but :
https://magpul.com/hunter-american-stock-ruger-american-stanag.html?mp_global_color=118
https://magpul.com/hunter-american-stock-ruger-american-short-action.html?mp_global_color=118
Was poking about a Boyds but I think in this case I'll prefer a chassis/pistol grip over wood, i.e. "At One Ruger American Ranch Sa Fbc”
https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator
Others at, under or around $400?
What exactly is: “The Accuracy International Chassis System (AICS) magazine format has become a standard detachable magazine pattern for military format sniper rifles”?
https://riflemags.co.uk/aics-magazines/
https://gunmagwarehouse.com/blog/gunwiki-what-is-an-aics-magazine/
If specified for AICS, does that mean I cannot use a stock Ruger Mini 30 mag anymore and must buy those? In the end I'd like some "affordable" double stack 10rd mags. Probably 4-6 for preloading.
If looking at the following chassis/stocks what are my magazine options? With or w/o some kind of “metal bottom plate”? Wrong question? Primary contenders for chassis/stocks are looking like.
Oryx chassis:
https://mdttac.com/oryx-chassis-system/
"Designed to AICS magazines"
Or perhaps a KRG:
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-ruger-american/
"All you will need is an AICS pattern mag (sold separately) compatible with your caliber."
Not nuts about a Magpul for this application but :
https://magpul.com/hunter-american-stock-ruger-american-stanag.html?mp_global_color=118
https://magpul.com/hunter-american-stock-ruger-american-short-action.html?mp_global_color=118
Was poking about a Boyds but I think in this case I'll prefer a chassis/pistol grip over wood, i.e. "At One Ruger American Ranch Sa Fbc”
https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator
Others at, under or around $400?
None of those will work for the 7.62x39 platform. Only thing for that RAR that may work is switching the magazine module with the one for the 300 BO that uses AR pattern mags and getting 7.62x39 Duramags AR style and using those but I'm not 100% of feeding from them will be 100%. Others may have better knowledge on this but most chassis use AICS pattern mags which absolutely will not work for that cartridge!
Direct from MagPul Website:
7.62x39 chambered rifles are equipped with a factory stock using Mini Thirty® magazines and are not compatible.
Direct from MagPul Website:
7.62x39 chambered rifles are equipped with a factory stock using Mini Thirty® magazines and are not compatible.
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So MTD says I'd have to use their MDT LSS-XL Gen2 https://mdttac.com/lss-xl-gen2-chassis-system/ and select the "Ruger American SA AR inlet". I guess then I can choose what ever 762x39 AR mag I want. Pricey at $500+ and still have to get stock and pistol grip.
KRG says maybe try a 6mm ARC magazine. Should work but can't confirm.
KRG says maybe try a 6mm ARC magazine. Should work but can't confirm.
RAR in 762x39 - First day out, First impressions.
I put a Nikon P-300 BLK 2-7x32 BDC Scope with SuperSub reticle for trial. It’s mounted via ARMS 22 (low) throw rings (love these things) Have previously used this on an SKS-D but been on the shelf for years. The BDC reticle is for 300BLK ballistics and should more or less match 7.62x39, HOWEVER, I probably should have read up on the BDC aspects of this reticle. I zeroed at 100yds and easily hit my marks at 100 and 200 (at 1st hash mark down) but couldn’t hit a thing at or beyond 300yds. I’ve since read up and this reticle is meant to be zeroed at 200. But this is another matter.
ACCURACY
Thus far I have NO complaints about accuracy and expect I can do better. I grabbed some Barnaul FMJ as well as some Republic for the day. I’m guessing the latter is the same Vympel marketed as Golden Tiger (looks identical). They performed identically as far as I could tell. There was virtually no distinction between the two regarding POI and group size. I didn’t measure but I estimate all these groups mainly to be under 2” @ 100yds. It will be interesting to see how the old corrosive milsurps performs (later).
TRIGGER
I don’t know why but I was under the impression the RAR had a two-stage trigger –no. Out of the box the trigger was unpleasant @ 5lb, 6oz with a gritty creep just before break. I ran the adjustment screw in/out a few times playing at several adjustment points and got it down to 3lb,10z but no better. Nice clean break but still a slight grit before the break.
ERGO
It’s a light handy rifle with moderate recoil and while the stock is really as cheesy as others have reported the form-factor / pistol grip is quite fine for my hand. Wood in the same format would be nicer. I may or may not think about that later. Frankly, I’m on the fence about even keeping this or perhaps contacting Ruger about the following. I believe I mentioned I do have an RPR in .308. That rifle’s action, while not exceptional, is very satisfactory/good. Beyond this I have little to no experience with new, production rifles. I mainly collect and shoot 20th century milsurps. After firing the RPR I can easily flip up the bolt handle with a couple fingers to cycle the next round with my eye barely leaving the scope’s site picture. One of my PU Snipers is as nice and perhaps smoother (depending on ammo)
ACTION
The action is miserable!!! Rough, chalky, dry feel with many bumps and obstacles to get the bolt forward and gturned to fire. A MAJOR effort to unbolt, draw back and cycle between rounds. I literally have to take my left hand and hold the buttstock to cycle the action. Much rough + kludge to force the bolt across the magazine and feed in the next round. The magazine drops easily when empty but I can sometimes, unintentionally force the bolt past the BHO follower feature. Seating the magazine up takes a bit of force and I’m not always sure it’s seated because, either way, it seats loosely. Several times I cycled nothing into the chamber realizing I needed to slam the magazine up into locked position. Again it’s always loose.
CONCLUSION
In the end I could live with the ergonomics and trigger. Shoots well, in fact, GREAT grouping for 7.62x39. I would think about investing in a better stock/chassis and perhaps alternate scope selection, but I’m not sure I can get past the action as is. It’s really awful. Cheap, crappy feel, like a toy! I know it’s not a top tier match gun but I find the RPR to be a pretty decent value for $1,200. Again, I have little experience with new, outta-the-box firearms. Was I expecting too much for a $450 bolt gun? Very unpleasant operating this thing. Someone mentioned cycling a thousand times by hand to smooth out. Not sure I’m up for that. Should I be? Any word on how to deal with this action? I’m all ears.
I put a Nikon P-300 BLK 2-7x32 BDC Scope with SuperSub reticle for trial. It’s mounted via ARMS 22 (low) throw rings (love these things) Have previously used this on an SKS-D but been on the shelf for years. The BDC reticle is for 300BLK ballistics and should more or less match 7.62x39, HOWEVER, I probably should have read up on the BDC aspects of this reticle. I zeroed at 100yds and easily hit my marks at 100 and 200 (at 1st hash mark down) but couldn’t hit a thing at or beyond 300yds. I’ve since read up and this reticle is meant to be zeroed at 200. But this is another matter.
ACCURACY
Thus far I have NO complaints about accuracy and expect I can do better. I grabbed some Barnaul FMJ as well as some Republic for the day. I’m guessing the latter is the same Vympel marketed as Golden Tiger (looks identical). They performed identically as far as I could tell. There was virtually no distinction between the two regarding POI and group size. I didn’t measure but I estimate all these groups mainly to be under 2” @ 100yds. It will be interesting to see how the old corrosive milsurps performs (later).
TRIGGER
I don’t know why but I was under the impression the RAR had a two-stage trigger –no. Out of the box the trigger was unpleasant @ 5lb, 6oz with a gritty creep just before break. I ran the adjustment screw in/out a few times playing at several adjustment points and got it down to 3lb,10z but no better. Nice clean break but still a slight grit before the break.
ERGO
It’s a light handy rifle with moderate recoil and while the stock is really as cheesy as others have reported the form-factor / pistol grip is quite fine for my hand. Wood in the same format would be nicer. I may or may not think about that later. Frankly, I’m on the fence about even keeping this or perhaps contacting Ruger about the following. I believe I mentioned I do have an RPR in .308. That rifle’s action, while not exceptional, is very satisfactory/good. Beyond this I have little to no experience with new, production rifles. I mainly collect and shoot 20th century milsurps. After firing the RPR I can easily flip up the bolt handle with a couple fingers to cycle the next round with my eye barely leaving the scope’s site picture. One of my PU Snipers is as nice and perhaps smoother (depending on ammo)
ACTION
The action is miserable!!! Rough, chalky, dry feel with many bumps and obstacles to get the bolt forward and gturned to fire. A MAJOR effort to unbolt, draw back and cycle between rounds. I literally have to take my left hand and hold the buttstock to cycle the action. Much rough + kludge to force the bolt across the magazine and feed in the next round. The magazine drops easily when empty but I can sometimes, unintentionally force the bolt past the BHO follower feature. Seating the magazine up takes a bit of force and I’m not always sure it’s seated because, either way, it seats loosely. Several times I cycled nothing into the chamber realizing I needed to slam the magazine up into locked position. Again it’s always loose.
CONCLUSION
In the end I could live with the ergonomics and trigger. Shoots well, in fact, GREAT grouping for 7.62x39. I would think about investing in a better stock/chassis and perhaps alternate scope selection, but I’m not sure I can get past the action as is. It’s really awful. Cheap, crappy feel, like a toy! I know it’s not a top tier match gun but I find the RPR to be a pretty decent value for $1,200. Again, I have little experience with new, outta-the-box firearms. Was I expecting too much for a $450 bolt gun? Very unpleasant operating this thing. Someone mentioned cycling a thousand times by hand to smooth out. Not sure I’m up for that. Should I be? Any word on how to deal with this action? I’m all ears.
" Any word on how to deal with this action? I’m all ears."
I have been down this road with the Ruger action . Although it was accurate I decided to peddle it . I did not pay cash for it in the first place but if it's 450 new it looks like you are getting what you paid for .
To be clear, I understand some lapping compound or JB Bore paste applied to the bolt lugs and worked over and over should accelerate aging/break-in/smoothing of that function of the action (turn and unturn of the bolt). And I’ll rty that. Still, pushing/dragging it across a loaded magazine is a clunky chore.
If I fall in love with this thing I may try trigger springs or even drop in a Timney. I understand it is supposed to be 2-stage, however, their product description page does not say.
timneytriggers.com
If I fall in love with this thing I may try trigger springs or even drop in a Timney. I understand it is supposed to be 2-stage, however, their product description page does not say.
Replacement Trigger for the Ruger American® Centerfire
Self-contained, 100% drop-in replacement trigger is ready to install in your Ruger American rifle for an exceptionally smooth, crisp, trigger pull.
timneytriggers.com
So far I worked the bolt and lugs slathered in bore paste for what must have been hundreds of times. Without magazine installed it does indeed seem improved, however, mag loaded wi snap-caps it still and awful action. pushing and pulling the bolt. Turning bolt down and up with mag installed it still quite difficult. I was wondering/thinking with the action in a chassis allowing for AR version Duramags or similar it could be better but that's a pretty expensive rabbit hole to run down as a test. Anyone have any other ideas? It just NOT a pleasant experience cycling. In fact I'm pretty perturbed at how awful it is.
Whelp, I may be starting to develop and affinity for this little bargain rifle after all. I’ve cycled JB Bore Paste many times and the action has smoothed out a bit. Still a bit of a chore pushing/pulling over the magazine but this to shows signs of improvement. I may file/sand mag feed lips as suggested, however, I have a confidence the action will improve with a different stock/chassis and use of standard AR type Duramags (or similar) for x39. I’m going to go this route. After todays outing, I’m pretty pleased with the results warranting going forward with the whole purpose of this folly.
I moved to a Harris bipod + rear bag and installed an old Pride & Fowler 4x BDC “rapid reticle” for 762x39. Cystal clear glass and the BDC was effective +/- out to 300 yds. Couldn’t really make the 400yd steel this time out.
As a control from last time out to re-zero I ran a few mags of Republic ammo (forgot to take pics of groups but at or under 2”). Next I ran some Yugo M67 and while the POI was essentially the same it was averaging 2+” groups.
The big surprise was some fairly old Russian “tin” ammo I broke open after many years. Sub 1.5” groups although the POI was down and to the left of the Republic and M67. Not that I’ll be able to find it again but can anyone identify this tin of ammo any further? Case head says SADU / 07 / 7.62.
I moved to a Harris bipod + rear bag and installed an old Pride & Fowler 4x BDC “rapid reticle” for 762x39. Cystal clear glass and the BDC was effective +/- out to 300 yds. Couldn’t really make the 400yd steel this time out.
As a control from last time out to re-zero I ran a few mags of Republic ammo (forgot to take pics of groups but at or under 2”). Next I ran some Yugo M67 and while the POI was essentially the same it was averaging 2+” groups.
The big surprise was some fairly old Russian “tin” ammo I broke open after many years. Sub 1.5” groups although the POI was down and to the left of the Republic and M67. Not that I’ll be able to find it again but can anyone identify this tin of ammo any further? Case head says SADU / 07 / 7.62.
If you want to see the maximum performance, I suggest giving Hornady Black a go, with the 123gr SST in it.
for 7.62x39 accuracy loads I approximate the hornady black loading by using Hdy 123gr SSTs over 26.2gr of Accurate 1680, in prvi brass with a CCI LR primer. I get great results in a semiauto (turns ~2.5 MoA milsurp into a 1 MoA hammer) so I imagine the effect would be just as nice in a bolt action.
Good hunting bullet too, taken several deer with them.
Thankfully I moved onto better ballistic software since these were taken a few years ago, Interface for Ballistic AE sucks ass. was a 100yd target, center diamond is 1" point to point, actual PoA was the black dot
Whoa man. Thought I'd share the love. $440 base price AND a $100 rebate from Ruger . Pretty screamin deal if anyone following is interested . . . .
grabagun.com
Ruger American Ranch Rifle Flat Dark Earth 7.62x39 16.1" Barrel 5-Rounds
Featuring a lightweight, robust, and dependable design, the Ruger American Ranch rifle delivers remarkable precision and performance. It is chambered in 7.62x39 ammo with a 16.1-inch threaded barrel and comes equipped with a fixed synthetic stock, an adjustable trigger, and a 5-round magazine...
grabagun.com
Thanks for sharing that. Great dealWhoa man. Thought I'd share the love. $440 base price AND a $100 rebate from Ruger . Pretty screamin deal if anyone following is interested . . . .
Ruger American Ranch Rifle Flat Dark Earth 7.62x39 16.1" Barrel 5-Rounds
Featuring a lightweight, robust, and dependable design, the Ruger American Ranch rifle delivers remarkable precision and performance. It is chambered in 7.62x39 ammo with a 16.1-inch threaded barrel and comes equipped with a fixed synthetic stock, an adjustable trigger, and a 5-round magazine...
After a couple weeks of running several applications and cycle-sessions of valve lapping compound the action does feel smoother except when cycling the mag with snap-caps. By itself with lithium grease and CLP it does feel much smoother but still a clunky, rough action over the magazine and still a tough turn when unlocking the bolt. No perceived improvement there. I certainly don’t think I can/should go any further cycling with lapping compound. I’ve probably gone 1,000 cycles (pulling the trigger half the time). The inside action and bolt shows plenty of wear from artificial aging in this way.
Anyway, today I came really close to ordering the “MTD LSS-XL Gen2 Chassis”. But at $530, plus a butt stock, plus pistol grip and I believe I still need a conversion bottom-metal to accommodate AR mags, meh, I just found it tough to justify all that expense for this little $430 rifle. So, I just ordered a Boyds “AT-ONE Thumbhole” in Pepper (kinda grey and white laminate). For $300 it’s a straighter pistol grip with pretty cool push-button mechanisms for instant comb height an LOP adjustment. And the variant includes the hardware to accommodate AR/762x39 mags. So, $343.84 (tax/shipped) + $91.87 for 5) 10rd 762x39 AR DuraMags (tax/shipped) and I’m in business for less that the base MTD chassis alone. Hoping the action is improved with this stock and mags (no matter). Added bonus: No BHO feature on the DuraMags.
Will post pics when all together.
Anyway, today I came really close to ordering the “MTD LSS-XL Gen2 Chassis”. But at $530, plus a butt stock, plus pistol grip and I believe I still need a conversion bottom-metal to accommodate AR mags, meh, I just found it tough to justify all that expense for this little $430 rifle. So, I just ordered a Boyds “AT-ONE Thumbhole” in Pepper (kinda grey and white laminate). For $300 it’s a straighter pistol grip with pretty cool push-button mechanisms for instant comb height an LOP adjustment. And the variant includes the hardware to accommodate AR/762x39 mags. So, $343.84 (tax/shipped) + $91.87 for 5) 10rd 762x39 AR DuraMags (tax/shipped) and I’m in business for less that the base MTD chassis alone. Hoping the action is improved with this stock and mags (no matter). Added bonus: No BHO feature on the DuraMags.
Will post pics when all together.
Here's the semi finished result. Bit heavier than the Ruger plasti-stock but faaaar more attractive and ergonomic in my view. Cycling with snap caps with AR mags feels much better on the bench. Still can't do an index finger release of the bolt. Considering how much cycling I did with lapping compound I imagine it's more of a high tension bolt-spring issue that I probably should not mess with (open to suggestions here). It definitely has significant fitment issues to which Boyds has responded :
"Hello, I would get some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand and clean up the inletting of the stock, remove any wood burrs / slivers. If the barrel is making contact after cleaning up the inletting sand on the left side of the stock, where the action sits down in at. There may be something there that is shifting the action over and then resulting in the barrel coming back to the left.
You can also try baby powder on the barreled action, if there is a high spot, the powder will rub off on it and you can gently sand it down. When tightening the front action screw to 25-35 inch pounds you can also gently pull the barrel to the right. If that doesn't work, please let us know"
I haven't sent these pics yet nor have I attempted sanding. Seems like considerable mis-fitment requiring quite a bit of sanding (in my opinion) that should be closer to free float out of the box than this. I'm gonna tweak/mess with it this weekend. Might get it to the range Sunday.
"Hello, I would get some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand and clean up the inletting of the stock, remove any wood burrs / slivers. If the barrel is making contact after cleaning up the inletting sand on the left side of the stock, where the action sits down in at. There may be something there that is shifting the action over and then resulting in the barrel coming back to the left.
You can also try baby powder on the barreled action, if there is a high spot, the powder will rub off on it and you can gently sand it down. When tightening the front action screw to 25-35 inch pounds you can also gently pull the barrel to the right. If that doesn't work, please let us know"
I haven't sent these pics yet nor have I attempted sanding. Seems like considerable mis-fitment requiring quite a bit of sanding (in my opinion) that should be closer to free float out of the box than this. I'm gonna tweak/mess with it this weekend. Might get it to the range Sunday.
I picked up my Ruger X39 from this place.
https://www.familyfirearms.com/product/ruger-american-ranch-7.62x39mm-flat-dark-earth-16976
For a $450'ish dollar rifle its actually really nice.
Other than replacing the bolt handle ( I hated it ) its ready to go to the range.
https://www.familyfirearms.com/product/ruger-american-ranch-7.62x39mm-flat-dark-earth-16976
For a $450'ish dollar rifle its actually really nice.
Other than replacing the bolt handle ( I hated it ) its ready to go to the range.
I have a Ranch in 7.62x39. Mine shoots MOA or better with Russian steel cased ammo. Any other ammo has been hit and miss, except for the Hornady Black SST. That stuff shoots sub MOA.
It's a light, cheap rifle that shoots well, so I didn't spend a lot of money trying to polish a turd only to make it heavier. If you go buying a chassis then you might as well have just bought the Tikka. Adding the cost of a chassis, just gives you less rifle than you could have had for the cost.
I added a Matthew's cheek riser and formed a pistol grip out of JB Weld putty. I really don't know what all the complaints are regarding the stock. Yes, there is flex, but the bedding system is rock solid.
The action is a little rough, but smoothing out on its own. I have almost 1k rounds through it now. When I first got it, I could bind the action up, if I tried. I can no longer do that.
As for mag options, I went with the AR magwell because I have an AR in the same caliber and have plenty mags. If you're having problems with very rough feeding, getting the round to chamber, it may be because your pulling back on the magazine (whether using Mini or AR mags) causing the bullets to nose dive into the receiver. I cut feed ramps into my receiver, similar to those used on M4 ARs. Mine now feeds smoothly no matter what with any kind of ammo.
If you go with a stock that'll take AR mags, Duramags will work. If you go for something using AICS pattern mags, mags for a 6 ARC SHOULD work.
If it seems rough feeding from the magazine, it's probably because you're using steel cased ammo. The poly coated ones are the worst. Lacquered is better and brass the best. I just cycle my bolt purposefully.
If your bolt is harder to cycle with the mag in than it is with the mag out, then your magazine is contacting the bolt. You need to lessen or alleviate the contact.
I have no problems hitting steel out to 500 with the stock it came with using Barnaul FMJ ammo and Vortex 1-6x.
It's a light, cheap rifle that shoots well, so I didn't spend a lot of money trying to polish a turd only to make it heavier. If you go buying a chassis then you might as well have just bought the Tikka. Adding the cost of a chassis, just gives you less rifle than you could have had for the cost.
I added a Matthew's cheek riser and formed a pistol grip out of JB Weld putty. I really don't know what all the complaints are regarding the stock. Yes, there is flex, but the bedding system is rock solid.
The action is a little rough, but smoothing out on its own. I have almost 1k rounds through it now. When I first got it, I could bind the action up, if I tried. I can no longer do that.
As for mag options, I went with the AR magwell because I have an AR in the same caliber and have plenty mags. If you're having problems with very rough feeding, getting the round to chamber, it may be because your pulling back on the magazine (whether using Mini or AR mags) causing the bullets to nose dive into the receiver. I cut feed ramps into my receiver, similar to those used on M4 ARs. Mine now feeds smoothly no matter what with any kind of ammo.
If you go with a stock that'll take AR mags, Duramags will work. If you go for something using AICS pattern mags, mags for a 6 ARC SHOULD work.
If it seems rough feeding from the magazine, it's probably because you're using steel cased ammo. The poly coated ones are the worst. Lacquered is better and brass the best. I just cycle my bolt purposefully.
If your bolt is harder to cycle with the mag in than it is with the mag out, then your magazine is contacting the bolt. You need to lessen or alleviate the contact.
I have no problems hitting steel out to 500 with the stock it came with using Barnaul FMJ ammo and Vortex 1-6x.
Russian Wolf Polyformance 122gr 7.62x39 has been really consistent and accurate in my AK.
Never had good luck with Hornady Black in anything I’ve shot it through.
Well, my little saga continues if anyone is interested and/or may learn from those that come before them (or just want to bag on me).
Cleaning up the inside of the stock with a bit of aggressive sanding and medium grit did sort out the alignment of the barrel in the action. Now, on to what’s peculiar. I discovered that when I hand tighten the action snug into the stock the bolt moves freely. When I crank it down to about 30lbs, as Boyds recommends, the bolt will not clear the magwell and stops short of being able to close. I added a couple #10 washers to the front action screw and that solved it BUT I should have added washers to the rear (duh) action and trigger guard screws b/c after a couple install removals the plastic magwell cracked and broke at the trigger guard. Okay, that’s on me.
They graciously sent a replacement free of charge advising me to go ahead and use the washers to space the magwell away to clear the bolt at full install torque. Not sure if that’s going to be a solution. Having Duramag issues as well: Two of five (on the left) only accept 9 rounds and the other three show the noses tilting up. Also, every once in a while, some rounds got ridden over by the bolt forcing me to hold the mag up during charging (caused by washers?). I contacted them and their VP of Sales was prompt and concerned asking if I would disassemble and take pics. Never could figure out how to get that floorplate off.
After a few emails back n forth he went dark on me (maybe something way more important came up in his life). GunMagWarehouse took them back for a refund and I have since ordered a pair each of ASC and of D&H Tactical ten rounders as testing alternates. I also round some thinner brass washers. We’ll see how these do. If the bolt continues to ride over rounds then it’ pretty clear to conclude that the Boyds stock in relation to the magwell and magazine fitment is out of spec.
Cleaning up the inside of the stock with a bit of aggressive sanding and medium grit did sort out the alignment of the barrel in the action. Now, on to what’s peculiar. I discovered that when I hand tighten the action snug into the stock the bolt moves freely. When I crank it down to about 30lbs, as Boyds recommends, the bolt will not clear the magwell and stops short of being able to close. I added a couple #10 washers to the front action screw and that solved it BUT I should have added washers to the rear (duh) action and trigger guard screws b/c after a couple install removals the plastic magwell cracked and broke at the trigger guard. Okay, that’s on me.
They graciously sent a replacement free of charge advising me to go ahead and use the washers to space the magwell away to clear the bolt at full install torque. Not sure if that’s going to be a solution. Having Duramag issues as well: Two of five (on the left) only accept 9 rounds and the other three show the noses tilting up. Also, every once in a while, some rounds got ridden over by the bolt forcing me to hold the mag up during charging (caused by washers?). I contacted them and their VP of Sales was prompt and concerned asking if I would disassemble and take pics. Never could figure out how to get that floorplate off.
After a few emails back n forth he went dark on me (maybe something way more important came up in his life). GunMagWarehouse took them back for a refund and I have since ordered a pair each of ASC and of D&H Tactical ten rounders as testing alternates. I also round some thinner brass washers. We’ll see how these do. If the bolt continues to ride over rounds then it’ pretty clear to conclude that the Boyds stock in relation to the magwell and magazine fitment is out of spec.
If you just want 10 rounders, try the E-lander mags, worked very well for me so far
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