looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
- Thread starter Bigchaza
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Re: looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
If your going to stick with that scope, make sure you have a good cheek weld. Get some stock pads or an Eagle stock pack to help weld your cheek to the correct height every shot. This may help with consistant eye placement, thus reducing parralax error.
If your going to stick with that scope, make sure you have a good cheek weld. Get some stock pads or an Eagle stock pack to help weld your cheek to the correct height every shot. This may help with consistant eye placement, thus reducing parralax error.
Re: looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
Well it may not be parallax, you may have a follow through problem.
Are your groupings pretty much separated from point of aim to 1 o clock? So in other words do you shoot and get two or three rounds right where you want them and then get one or two up at 1 o clock?
Well it may not be parallax, you may have a follow through problem.
Are your groupings pretty much separated from point of aim to 1 o clock? So in other words do you shoot and get two or three rounds right where you want them and then get one or two up at 1 o clock?
Re: looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
Hogstooth, please elaborate. I've had this happen a couple times when I get tired and don't completely understand the cause.
Hogstooth, please elaborate. I've had this happen a couple times when I get tired and don't completely understand the cause.
Re: looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
The key to getting a consistent POI with uncorrected parallax is to get the eye properly and consitently centered behind the eyepiece lens.
One way is to develop a consistent cheekweld, but that's A) not so easy to do with reliable consistency, and B) addresses the problem at the cheek, when the real problem is at the eye.
I'm currently experimenting with an optical baffle.
It's fairly simple, a translucent disk with a small peephole that corresponds to the scope's optical axis (i.e it's centered behind the eyepiece lens). <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">It forces the eye to peer through the exact exit pupil</span></span> (i.e. The exit pupil is a diameter equal to the objective diameter in mm divided by the power of magnification. for instance, a 50mm objective and a 25 power scope has an optical exit pupil diameter of 2mm. BTW this is very definiely on the small side.). The peephole diameter should therefore be somewhere between 2mm and 4mm in diameter for better performance.
The cheek support should then be estabished to align the eye wth the optical baffle's peephole comfortably.
New stuff, experimental, but I'm behind it.
Greg
The key to getting a consistent POI with uncorrected parallax is to get the eye properly and consitently centered behind the eyepiece lens.
One way is to develop a consistent cheekweld, but that's A) not so easy to do with reliable consistency, and B) addresses the problem at the cheek, when the real problem is at the eye.
I'm currently experimenting with an optical baffle.
It's fairly simple, a translucent disk with a small peephole that corresponds to the scope's optical axis (i.e it's centered behind the eyepiece lens). <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">It forces the eye to peer through the exact exit pupil</span></span> (i.e. The exit pupil is a diameter equal to the objective diameter in mm divided by the power of magnification. for instance, a 50mm objective and a 25 power scope has an optical exit pupil diameter of 2mm. BTW this is very definiely on the small side.). The peephole diameter should therefore be somewhere between 2mm and 4mm in diameter for better performance.
The cheek support should then be estabished to align the eye wth the optical baffle's peephole comfortably.
New stuff, experimental, but I'm behind it.
Greg
Re: looking for some basic tips to ruduce parralax
Get ready to lay behind your rifle and close your eyes. Once you get into a comfortable spot and you feel as though you are comfortable and ready - open your eye and see how it looks with out moving your head. If the shadow is on one side only then you need to move your head that way with some kind of cheek piece (strap kind or neoprene). However if it is a shadow all the way around you need to move the scope back to your eye. You need to ensure that the scope is set up to you and you are not moving to the scope from your comfortable position. I spend alot of time with my spotters and students when we set up the scopes correctly. PM if you have any questions.
Get ready to lay behind your rifle and close your eyes. Once you get into a comfortable spot and you feel as though you are comfortable and ready - open your eye and see how it looks with out moving your head. If the shadow is on one side only then you need to move your head that way with some kind of cheek piece (strap kind or neoprene). However if it is a shadow all the way around you need to move the scope back to your eye. You need to ensure that the scope is set up to you and you are not moving to the scope from your comfortable position. I spend alot of time with my spotters and students when we set up the scopes correctly. PM if you have any questions.
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