Low cost chassis options

9

9245

Private
Minuteman
Oct 14, 2020
71
19
#1
I’m looking for a low cost chassis for a Howa 1500 build, I was looking at a short action, but now I am considering a long action and the one I was looking at (KRG Bravo) is not available for long actions, at least not according to the drop down menu on their website. Plus, it appears that the Bravo might have an issue holding zero if the back end is removed and reinstalled, which was the main selling point for me.

So what I am looking for is a chassis system similar in price to the KRG Bravo+the KRG tooless LOP, so $700ish or under, but preferably a lot less, this is intended for a budget build so $300-$500 is probably the sweet spot.

The only requirement is that it has a tooless LOP adjustment and tooless cheek riser (sorry I just don’t see stock spacers as valid in the 21st century, plus adjusting them on the fly is obviously not going to happen), or it is compatible with adding one later like the Bravo.

But ideally it should also be either removable/detachable without loss of zero or folding.

I’m aware of the MDT LSS, and that was my original plan, but by the time I add a pistol grip, folding stock adaptor, buffer tube, and stock it will be pushing $1,000, which is too much. I would prefer an all in one solution.

I also considered the Howa TSPX, but the lack of a tooless LOP or the ability to add one (at least not that I could see) turned me off.

Any suggestions?

If I must I will stick with the Bravo but it will make storage and transport an issue.
 
#3
There's no such thing as a low cost chassis.

KRG's chassis are all fundamentally/functially incomplete,
and you need to spend hundreds to sort them out.

The business model is razor/blades.
The razor is cheap, the blades cost $$$.
 
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#5
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#6
jetjock07 said:
Aero Precision chassis when they are on sale can be bought for around $490ish
Click to expand...
Unfortunately according to the website it appears that those are only designed for Remington 700 footprint which I do not believe that the Howa 1500 is. If that is correct it is not an option. If that is not correct, how often are they on sale? I kind of want this project finished by the end of summer, or at least before late October (I will be traveling near a good range, which is rare in my area so I want to take advantage of it while I am in the area).

As for the Solus itself, the actions are nice but the price gives me sticker shock and that doesn’t even include the trigger, while they are a great deal for the money they are well out of reach of my budget by about $1,000 when all is said and done. That is why I am looking at the Howa 1500, I could get 3 of those, with triggers, for the cost of one Solus barreled action without a trigger. Just too rich for my blood.
 
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#7
That's a tall order.
There isn't enough demand for Howa inlets for most companies to offer it in all of the chassis, especially the long action.
Do you plan on changing your length of pull that frequently?
You can build a Woox up in LA for about 1,000
Brownells has a system made for them by MDT, see this article:
www.americanrifleman.org

An Official Journal Of The NRA | Building A Howa 1500 Precision Chassis Rifle With Brownells

Is this a high-quality long-range bench rifle or a cutting-edge hybrid elk gun? You decide!
www.americanrifleman.org www.americanrifleman.org
 
#8
9245 said:
Unfortunately according to the website it appears that those are only designed for Remington 700 footprint which I do not believe that the Howa 1500 is. If that is correct it is not an option. If that is not correct, how often are they on sale? I kind of want this project finished by the end of summer, or at least before late October (I will be traveling near a good range, which is rare in my area so I want to take advantage of it while I am in the area).

As for the Solus itself, the actions are nice but the price gives me sticker shock and that doesn’t even include the trigger, while they are a great deal for the money they are well out of reach of my budget by about $1,000 when all is said and done. That is why I am looking at the Howa 1500, I could get 3 of those, with triggers, for the cost of one Solus barreled action without a trigger. Just too rich for my blood.
Click to expand...
Sorry I was replying to title of post. Solus won’t work with Howa for now. MDT and KRG are the only ones off the top of my head that will work. They run sales all the time but some bigger than others. Next big sale will probably be Black Friday. I know they have the Labor Day sale going on now but not sure of discount being offered.
 
#9
MDT ESS, LSS or XRS are about your only options. I think they inlet the Oryx for the Howa as well.
ABA (American Built Arms) was making one years ago but I think he's since dried up and moved on. I have one but there's minimal support for it as far as accessories, weights, etc. unless you're creative.
 
#12
PinesAndProjectiles said:
You could sell the Howa and buy a 700 based rifle and get the chassis you want with a lot less headache…..
Click to expand...
Remington 700’s generally speaking have dog shit unusable barrels from the factory, so I would immediately have to pay for a new custom barrel and action blueprinting and barrel installation, all on top of an over priced rifle. So basically I’m out $700-$800 just for an action with a questionable at best trigger, then another $200ish for the blue printing, probably another $600 for the barrel, another $200ish to have that barrel chambered, head spaced, and installed, then another $150 if I want a decent trigger, so $1,750, and that’s not even including the chassis or the optic. No. Remington 700s are horribly over rated given amount of work it takes for them to not suck, I know that’s not a popular opinion here but it’s true. It’s a good action for the basis of a custom rifle but that is it, you are paying for a barrel, stock, and trigger that are going straight in to the garbage. I also am not made of money and have an actual budget, I have budgeted $1,500 for this and that is including the chassis and optic, and even that is a tremendous strain on my budget and requires me to do this in stages over months, honestly I can’t even afford that much, yet all I get here is people looking down their noses at me, insulting my choices, and telling me to just save a “little” more when that “little” more is several thousand dollars which would take me YEARS to do just so I can have some fancy custom rifle that I don’t even need. Dude. All I am trying to do is make a decently accurate long range rifle that I can challenge myself with on my rare maybe 1-2 times a year trips damn near 5 hours away to the 1,000+ yard range, I am not trying to win a damned competition that I can’t even afford the freakin’ mountain of match ammunition or warehouse full of specialty reloading equipment to even be competitive in. I just want to have fun and challenge myself. That is all. And I don’t need some damned $15,000 hoity toit “I’m better than you, everybody look at me” full custom rifle that shoots .25 MOA at 2 miles to do that with. I need something economical that will at least stay on target at 1,000 yards that I can press out to 1 mile when I get skilled enough. That’s it. So comments like that are not F’ing helpful. $1,500 for the whole damn project, chassis and optic included is what I’ve got, please stop suggesting damn near $2,000 for just a barreled action.
 
#14
Just for a cost perspective, I put this together as follows by snagging stuff on the PX:

Origin SA w. TriggerTech Primary - $825
Preferred Barrels 16" 6.5CM (~300 rounds on it) - $250
McMillan A1-3 Adjustable with Grayboe DBM - $850
x3 MDT AICS Mags - $100

You can find Bravos on here for ~$300 and add the toolless LOP, so realistically you could have a rifle setup well under $2K. I realize that doesn't include an optic though.

A friend went the same Howa route you are exploring. I think hunting for the Bravo used and adding the toolless features is probably the best bet, then adding the optic that fits the rest of the budget.
 
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#15
9245 said:
Plus, it appears that the Bravo might have an issue holding zero if the back end is removed and reinstalled, which was the main selling point for me.
Click to expand...
That sounds like bullshit to me. The butt of the stock plays no part in the connection between the action and the underlying chassis.

I suppose you could call it a "loss of zero" if you install the butt back on grossly misaligned with the rest of the rifle, but that's on you.

Please apply critical thinking to what you read on the internet.
 
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#18
9245 said:
Remington 700’s generally speaking have dog shit unusable barrels from the factory, so I would immediately have to pay for a new custom barrel and action blueprinting and barrel installation, all on top of an over priced rifle. So basically I’m out $700-$800 just for an action with a questionable at best trigger, then another $200ish for the blue printing, probably another $600 for the barrel, another $200ish to have that barrel chambered, head spaced, and installed, then another $150 if I want a decent trigger, so $1,750, and that’s not even including the chassis or the optic. No. Remington 700s are horribly over rated given amount of work it takes for them to not suck, I know that’s not a popular opinion here but it’s true. It’s a good action for the basis of a custom rifle but that is it, you are paying for a barrel, stock, and trigger that are going straight in to the garbage. I also am not made of money and have an actual budget, I have budgeted $1,500 for this and that is including the chassis and optic, and even that is a tremendous strain on my budget and requires me to do this in stages over months, honestly I can’t even afford that much, yet all I get here is people looking down their noses at me, insulting my choices, and telling me to just save a “little” more when that “little” more is several thousand dollars which would take me YEARS to do just so I can have some fancy custom rifle that I don’t even need. Dude. All I am trying to do is make a decently accurate long range rifle that I can challenge myself with on my rare maybe 1-2 times a year trips damn near 5 hours away to the 1,000+ yard range, I am not trying to win a damned competition that I can’t even afford the freakin’ mountain of match ammunition or warehouse full of specialty reloading equipment to even be competitive in. I just want to have fun and challenge myself. That is all. And I don’t need some damned $15,000 hoity toit “I’m better than you, everybody look at me” full custom rifle that shoots .25 MOA at 2 miles to do that with. I need something economical that will at least stay on target at 1,000 yards that I can press out to 1 mile when I get skilled enough. That’s it. So comments like that are not F’ing helpful. $1,500 for the whole damn project, chassis and optic included is what I’ve got, please stop suggesting damn near $2,000 for just a barreled action.
Click to expand...

He said a 700-based rifle meaning a rifle NOT made by Remington that shares the Remington 700's action FOOTPRINT so that your chassis and stock options open up dramatically.

Put that fucking chip on your shoulder DOWN and learn how to read.

If you're that fucking strapped for cash, then maybe find another hobby. Seriously.

ETA why the fuck do you want a long action rifle anyway?

If you want a Howa 1500 (and I have two, nothing wrong with the as starters) get a 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action, drop it in a KRG Bravo, put a bipod on it, buy a rear bag (or make one out of a sock and airsoft BBs), Picatinny rail, scope rings, scope, and a case of ammo.

Quit overthinking everything then shitting on people who give you good advice that might cost you $1501 instead of $1500.00.
 
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#19
9245 said:
Remington 700’s generally speaking have dog shit unusable barrels from the factory, so I would immediately have to pay for a new custom barrel and action blueprinting and barrel installation, all on top of an over priced rifle. So basically I’m out $700-$800 just for an action with a questionable at best trigger, then another $200ish for the blue printing, probably another $600 for the barrel, another $200ish to have that barrel chambered, head spaced, and installed, then another $150 if I want a decent trigger, so $1,750, and that’s not even including the chassis or the optic. No. Remington 700s are horribly over rated given amount of work it takes for them to not suck, I know that’s not a popular opinion here but it’s true. It’s a good action for the basis of a custom rifle but that is it, you are paying for a barrel, stock, and trigger that are going straight in to the garbage. I also am not made of money and have an actual budget, I have budgeted $1,500 for this and that is including the chassis and optic, and even that is a tremendous strain on my budget and requires me to do this in stages over months, honestly I can’t even afford that much, yet all I get here is people looking down their noses at me, insulting my choices, and telling me to just save a “little” more when that “little” more is several thousand dollars which would take me YEARS to do just so I can have some fancy custom rifle that I don’t even need. Dude. All I am trying to do is make a decently accurate long range rifle that I can challenge myself with on my rare maybe 1-2 times a year trips damn near 5 hours away to the 1,000+ yard range, I am not trying to win a damned competition that I can’t even afford the freakin’ mountain of match ammunition or warehouse full of specialty reloading equipment to even be competitive in. I just want to have fun and challenge myself. That is all. And I don’t need some damned $15,000 hoity toit “I’m better than you, everybody look at me” full custom rifle that shoots .25 MOA at 2 miles to do that with. I need something economical that will at least stay on target at 1,000 yards that I can press out to 1 mile when I get skilled enough. That’s it. So comments like that are not F’ing helpful. $1,500 for the whole damn project, chassis and optic included is what I’ve got, please stop suggesting damn near $2,000 for just a barreled action.
Click to expand...


Tell the class how many of these shit Remington barrels you’ve experienced 😂😂

I’ve got two factory Remingtons in my safe right now that are 1/2MOA guns with factory ammo. I’ve owned dozens and dozens of factory 700’s and have never once had one of these shit barrels that are apparently so common.

The new barrels remarms is producing are the best they’re ever made and the old ones were really good.

It’s funny how you were gung ho to buy a Savage and were ok with swapping everything else, now you’re on a howa kick and you know everything about anything in between and elsewhere. A know nothing that knows it all. You’re too stupid for your own good.
 
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#20
308pirate said:
That sounds like bullshit to me. The butt of the stock plays no part in the connection between the action and the underlying chassis.

I suppose you could call it a "loss of zero" if you install the butt back on grossly misaligned with the rest of the rifle, but that's on you.

Please apply critical thinking to what you read on the internet.
Click to expand...
Have you not perused his poors Savage thread where he disregards every piece of solid advice just to announce he’s going to buy a poors rifle to change everything out on it, and spend just as much as a custom rifle would in the long run, but because he doesn’t have to spend it all at once, he thinks he’s making a smart monetary decision. 🤣😂🤣
 
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#22
9245 said:
Remington 700’s generally speaking have dog shit unusable barrels from the factory, so I would immediately have to pay for a new custom barrel and action blueprinting and barrel installation, all on top of an over priced rifle. So basically I’m out $700-$800 just for an action with a questionable at best trigger, then another $200ish for the blue printing, probably another $600 for the barrel, another $200ish to have that barrel chambered, head spaced, and installed, then another $150 if I want a decent trigger, so $1,750, and that’s not even including the chassis or the optic. No. Remington 700s are horribly over rated given amount of work it takes for them to not suck, I know that’s not a popular opinion here but it’s true. It’s a good action for the basis of a custom rifle but that is it, you are paying for a barrel, stock, and trigger that are going straight in to the garbage. I also am not made of money and have an actual budget, I have budgeted $1,500 for this and that is including the chassis and optic, and even that is a tremendous strain on my budget and requires me to do this in stages over months, honestly I can’t even afford that much, yet all I get here is people looking down their noses at me, insulting my choices, and telling me to just save a “little” more when that “little” more is several thousand dollars which would take me YEARS to do just so I can have some fancy custom rifle that I don’t even need. Dude. All I am trying to do is make a decently accurate long range rifle that I can challenge myself with on my rare maybe 1-2 times a year trips damn near 5 hours away to the 1,000+ yard range, I am not trying to win a damned competition that I can’t even afford the freakin’ mountain of match ammunition or warehouse full of specialty reloading equipment to even be competitive in. I just want to have fun and challenge myself. That is all. And I don’t need some damned $15,000 hoity toit “I’m better than you, everybody look at me” full custom rifle that shoots .25 MOA at 2 miles to do that with. I need something economical that will at least stay on target at 1,000 yards that I can press out to 1 mile when I get skilled enough. That’s it. So comments like that are not F’ing helpful. $1,500 for the whole damn project, chassis and optic included is what I’ve got, please stop suggesting damn near $2,000 for just a barreled action.
Click to expand...
So much misinformation in this one post…Yet it explains so much from your previous threads. Put down the Google machine. You need to stop listening to the fucktards on Reddit that don’t know a damn thing about guns, much less precision rifle building and shooting, and the Fudds at your local “Cabellers”…
 
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#24
9245 said:
Remington 700’s generally speaking have dog shit unusable barrels from the factory, so I would immediately have to pay for a new custom barrel and action blueprinting and barrel installation,
Click to expand...
That statement leads me to believe you have no fucking clue.
Remington barrels are typically quite serviceable, sub-moa was the norm for the heavier barrels and .75 moa was common. Apparently, the new owners have made considerable strides in quality control etc... BUT I can not confirm that either.
Both SAC and Tac-Ops used to offer accurizing jobs while using the factory barrel.
All new remingtons come with Timney triggers, lower end ones are not adjustable. Timney makes a fine trigger.
That beind said, you have chosen to build on a good, quality barreled action. The only thing holding you back is you apparently think you are going to be changing your LOP every range trip.
Your options are going to be limited. Basically, due to budget constraints, you are looking at either Savage or Howa. Savage has more aftermartket support, Howa has a nicer action.
The easiest answer is to run a short action, as it has the most support. It sounds like the 6.5 Cm will do what you want.
 
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#25
308pirate said:
That sounds like bullshit to me. The butt of the stock plays no part in the connection between the action and the underlying chassis.

I suppose you could call it a "loss of zero" if you install the butt back on grossly misaligned with the rest of the rifle, but that's on you.

Please apply critical thinking to what you read on the internet.
Click to expand...
That was based on my emails with KRG directly, it was the rear screw they were concerned with, they called it a “variable.”

IMG_2895.png

IMG_2896.png

IMG_2897.jpeg

IMG_2899.jpeg

I read that as “we think it will screw up your zero but maybe you will get lucky, only way to know is to try (after paying us $400). But we made no guarantees either way, so don’t sue us.”

Do you read it differently?

Or are they really full of crap?
 
#26
You should be asking how you can get out of the Howa and into an action with more chassis options.

That will be your next dilemma once you figure out the Howa leaves you lacking.
 
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#27
308pirate said:
He said a 700-based rifle meaning a rifle NOT made by Remington that shares the Remington 700's action FOOTPRINT so that your chassis and stock options open up dramatically.

Put that fucking chip on your shoulder DOWN and learn how to read.

If you're that fucking strapped for cash, then maybe find another hobby. Seriously.

ETA why the fuck do you want a long action rifle anyway?

If you want a Howa 1500 (and I have two, nothing wrong with the as starters) get a 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action, drop it in a KRG Bravo, put a bipod on it, buy a rear bag (or make one out of a sock and airsoft BBs), Picatinny rail, scope rings, scope, and a case of ammo.

Quit overthinking everything then shitting on people who give you good advice that might cost you $1501 instead of $1500.00.
Click to expand...
Because 300 PRC is a long action cartridge and I can get it for the same price as the 6.5 creedmoor barreled action. Yes, the ammunition is more expensive but due to the distance to the range I won’t be shooting enough to really care. So why not give myself the extra capability out to a mile? I won’t be shooting that far yet, but I know I will eventually want to so why not save myself from having to buy a new rifle in a year or two?

I don’t mind $1,501, the issue is these suggestions are more like $2,500. A thousand more is just too much for me.
 
#29
9245 said:
Because 300 PRC is a long action cartridge and I can get it for the same price as the 6.5 creedmoor barreled action. Yes, the ammunition is more expensive but due to the distance to the range I won’t be shooting enough to really care. So why not give myself the extra capability out to a mile? I won’t be shooting that far yet, but I know I will eventually want to so why not save myself from having to buy a new rifle in a year or two?

I don’t mind $1,501, the issue is these suggestions are more like $2,500. A thousand more is just too much for me.
Click to expand...
I'm going to learn on a .300 magnum/PRC.
Yeah, that's a great idea.
Have you figured your extra barrels into the cost?
Besides the flinch you're going to develop and the bad habits because you jumped into too much cartridge.
Why do you post shit, then argue with the advice, usually given after someone else made the same mistake?
 
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#30
fdkay said:
That statement leads me to believe you have no fucking clue.
Remington barrels are typically quite serviceable, sub-moa was the norm for the heavier barrels and .75 moa was common. Apparently, the new owners have made considerable strides in quality control etc... BUT I can not confirm that either.
Both SAC and Tac-Ops used to offer accurizing jobs while using the factory barrel.
All new remingtons come with Timney triggers, lower end ones are not adjustable. Timney makes a fine trigger.
That beind said, you have chosen to build on a good, quality barreled action. The only thing holding you back is you apparently think you are going to be changing your LOP every range trip.
Your options are going to be limited. Basically, due to budget constraints, you are looking at either Savage or Howa. Savage has more aftermartket support, Howa has a nicer action.
The easiest answer is to run a short action, as it has the most support. It sounds like the 6.5 Cm will do what you want.
Click to expand...
Thankyou that was a useful reply. I’m not opposed to 6.5 Creedmoor, it was my original intent, but for the last few days I’ve been considering 300 PRC, doesn’t mean I will go that way, but it is on my radar, as is 6.5 PRC, I just think the extra energy down range will make spotting hits and misses easier.

What you say about is interesting because in the past, and based on the reviews I have seen it seems to have historically been the opposite, I was seeing factory new rifles not getting better than 2-4 MOA and people constantly bitching about bad triggers. I first got the notion to do this project several years ago and initially was looking at the Remington 700 and started researching it and it was all the near uniformly bad reviews that turned me off to it. If they have indeed improved under the new owners than great, I will be pleased to be proven wrong, but how could I tell a new production rifle from one that had been sitting in the warehouse for a few years?
 
#32
fdkay said:
I'm going to learn on a .300 magnum/PRC.
Yeah, that's a great idea.
Have you figured your extra barrels into the cost?
Besides the flinch you're going to develop and the bad habits because you jumped into too much cartridge.
Why do you post shit, then argue with the advice, usually given after someone else made the same mistake?
Click to expand...
I am not recoil shy or a 90 pound woman. I learned to shoot on Mosin Nagant M-44s and Styer M95s. The bruise just means I had fun!

Burning the barrel would take what a thousand or so rounds? I live nearly 5 hours from the range, one way, so I don’t I will visit more than a couple of times a year, and I don’t compete, so burning out the barrel will likely take me several years at least, probably the better part of a decade. Not really a concern.
 
#33
fdkay said:
The easiest tell is the timney trigger.
Click to expand...
Short of taking the thing apart is their any other way? I generally order online and have things shipped to a transfer dealer, that is typically several hundred dollars cheaper than any of the local shops, plus I get a better selection. I actually found a fee 700s for less than $500 online, not going to be anywhere near that in any of the stores around here.

Edit: Upon adding “timney” to my search though the cheapest I could find was $1,678.53 for an Alpha 1 Hunter. Nope.
 
#36
9245 said:
What you say about is interesting because in the past, and based on the reviews I have seen it seems to have historically been the opposite, I was seeing factory new rifles not getting better than 2-4 MOA and people constantly bitching about bad triggers. I first got the notion to do this project several years ago and initially was looking at the Remington 700 and started researching it and it was all the near uniformly bad reviews that turned me off to it. If they have indeed improved under the new owners than great, I will be pleased to be proven wrong, but how could I tell a new production rifle from one that had been sitting in the warehouse for a few years?
Click to expand...
Did you ever stop to consider the retards leaving these scathing reviews probably can’t shoot better than 2-4 MOA, even with a $10,000 rifle? Because my personal experiences on both sides of the gun counter, and helping hundreds of people zero scopes at the range, the average shooter/hunter is lucky to shoot softball-sized groups, considers that to be good, thinks 200 yards is a “long shot”, and doesn’t even know how to zero a scope without help…

These are the same morons leaving these negative reviews. Not all of them, but a solid 90-95% of them, guaranteed. And I’d venture to say 90% of the problems could be alleviated just by swapping the monkey pulling the trigger with a seasoned and disciplined shooter…I’ve personally shown people this at the range with their own guns that they claim “just can’t get it to group worth a shit…”

The only thing they got right was the factory X-Mark and X-Mark Pro triggers are/were complete garbage, and should immediately be thrown in that trash upon purchase, and replaced with something halfway decent, and adjustable.
 
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#37
308pirate said:
That sounds like bullshit to me. The butt of the stock plays no part in the connection between the action and the underlying chassis.
Click to expand...
@308 pirate...

The rear stock on KRGs cannot be removed without removing the rear actions screw.

It migh look like you can remove the stock via the single bolt that holds the stock on...however...
That bolt its...<drumroll>...the rear action screw....
 
#38
9245 said:
That was based on my emails with KRG directly, it was the rear screw they were concerned with, they called it a “variable.”

View attachment 8490110
View attachment 8490111
View attachment 8490112
View attachment 8490113
I read that as “we think it will screw up your zero but maybe you will get lucky, only way to know is to try (after paying us $400). But we made no guarantees either way, so don’t sue us.”

Do you read it differently?

Or are they really full of crap?
Click to expand...

Exaggerate much? All they said is that zero may have to be checked because evidently the rear action screw holds the butt stock on. Not that the zero will be screwed up. You do realize that rifle zeroes aren't actually static for reasons that have nothing to do with the rifle or scope itself, rigjht?

Anyway why do you want to take the butt off the stock for transport? Even when I drove a VW Golf GTI I had no trouble transporting rifles in it completely out of sight.

Why do you insist on making everything more difficult than it needs to be?
 
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#39
9245 said:
Because 300 PRC is a long action cartridge and I can get it for the same price as the 6.5 creedmoor barreled action. Yes, the ammunition is more expensive but due to the distance to the range I won’t be shooting enough to really care. So why not give myself the extra capability out to a mile? I won’t be shooting that far yet, but I know I will eventually want to so why not save myself from having to buy a new rifle in a year or two?

I don’t mind $1,501, the issue is these suggestions are more like $2,500. A thousand more is just too much for me.
Click to expand...

You don't know enough to make these decisions. Buy a 6.5 Creedmoor, learn to shoot, and shut the fuck up.

If you think a 6.5 Creedmoor won't reliably reach a mile, you don't know what you're taking about. If you think you'll be ready to shoot a mile in a year or two, as infrequently as you say you're going to shoot, you don't know what you're talking about.
 
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#40
ma smith said:
@308 pirate...

The rear stock on KRGs cannot be removed without removing the rear actions screw.

It migh look like you can remove the stock via the single bolt that holds the stock on...however...
That bolt its...<drumroll>...the rear action screw....
Click to expand...

OK, I learned something new every day.

Evidently I'm not dumb enough to try to take the stock off and on every time I go to the range.
 
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#41
There’s a saying around here: “Go be poor somewhere else”. 😝

Get a Howa BA and a Bravo and find out for yourself that you don’t know WTF you’re talking about yet (that’s what I did). Many of the things you’re prioritizing make zero sense, like: if you’re on a budget 300PRC is off the menu, and adjustable LOP matters dick unless you’re sharing the rifle with a small child or something…

I’m not trying to be an asshole, but it seems like you’re trying to get into this shit with incorrect preconceived notions thinking you need this and that for “capability” when the real capability you’re missing is a fatter wallet and/or actual experience.
 
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#43
9245 said:
for the last few days I’ve been considering 300 PRC, doesn’t mean I will go that way, but it is on my radar, as is 6.5 PRC, I just think the extra energy down range will make spotting hits and misses easier.
Click to expand...
LOLOL

Your analog in the pistol world is the guy with a Glock who shoots a shotgun pattern low and left at 7 yards with 1.5 second splits and blames it all on Glock's "shitty trigger and ergos" because that's what he read on the internet..

Buys a 2011 and still shoots a shotgun pattern low and left at 7 yards with 1.5 second splits.
 
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#44
308pirate said:
Exaggerate much? All they said is that zero may have to be checked because evidently the rear action screw holds the butt stock on. Not that the zero will be screwed up. You do realize that rifle zeroes aren't actually static for reasons that have nothing to do with the rifle or scope itself, rigjht?

Anyway why do you want to take the butt off the stock for transport? Even when I drove a VW Golf GTI I had no trouble transporting rifles in it completely out of sight.

Why do you insist on making everything more difficult than it needs to be?
Click to expand...
Because the Internet professionals told him he “needs” it…
 
#46
CK1.0 said:
There’s a saying around here: “Go be poor somewhere else”. 😝

Get a Howa BA and a Bravo and find out for yourself that you don’t know WTF you’re talking about yet (that’s what I did). Many of the things you’re prioritizing make zero sense, like: if you’re on a budget 300PRC is off the menu, and adjustable LOP matters dick unless you’re sharing the rifle with a small child or something…

I’m not trying to be an asshole, but it seems like you’re trying to get into this shit with incorrect preconceived notions thinking you need this and that for “capability” when the real capability you’re missing is a fatter wallet and/or actual experience.
Click to expand...
I’m not sharing it with a child but I may be sharing it with my disabled fiancé who can’t extend her support arm all the way and would be shooting from a wheelchair, if you must know. I believe I had another thread asking about tripods, want to guess why? She won’t be shooting much, but she does like to feel included so I want to make sure that if she does want to join me she can, I will not allow equipment to exclude her, even if it is only occasionally. Also, as I said previously it’s sort of a preference thing, I just don’t get how semi auto precision rifles (and even a lot of regular ones), almost always have a tooless length of pull, while for some unknown reason bolt guns seem to be stuck in the 19th century using spacers, why? I see no logical reason. Using spacers I just feel like I should be going on Safari with a 4 bore double rifle wearing a pith helmet and obsessing about making afternoon tea time. Probably just me. I just don’t like them.

Also I ran a ballistic calculator on 6.5 Creedmoor, while I have every confidence that it theoretically COULD hit a target at a mile it has no gas left in the tank and i don’t think I will be seeing much in terms of hits and misses when it only has 200ish foot pounds of energy left, it basically has the punch of a .380 pistol at that range. I think I will burn through more ammo in frustration having no idea where my rounds are even going than anything.
 
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