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Low cost chassis options
- Thread starter 9245
- Start date
The smaller your budget, the more compromises you'll have to make. More money = more options.
Wants versus needs.
Such is life.
Btw - if your budget for a rifle is $1500, answer is Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 creedmoor or 6.5 PRC.
Wants versus needs.
Such is life.
Btw - if your budget for a rifle is $1500, answer is Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 creedmoor or 6.5 PRC.
With bolt guns, the less play in the system the better, so adjustable LOP can be more undesirable than a feature.
Maybe look into these, they might work better for you: https://uintahprecision.com/
Yep, I saw that, and specifically mentioned it in the OP.
Wait, you want your disabled girlfreind in a wheelchair to shoot a 300 PRC for fun?
This is your answer, reasonable cost, adjustable buttstock that can be adjusted quickly. Comes with three magazines.
https://www.budsgunshop.com/product...y+chassis+6.5+crd+24+hvy+threaded+barrel+gray
This is your answer, reasonable cost, adjustable buttstock that can be adjusted quickly. Comes with three magazines.
https://www.budsgunshop.com/product...y+chassis+6.5+crd+24+hvy+threaded+barrel+gray
He just needs to buy an 6.5 RPR in Creedmoor and go learn how to shoot.
This keeps getting better and better. Homie has a $1500 budget and wants his disabled girlfriend to be able to shoot it and is looking at 300PRC 
This guy is going to get a harsh dose of reality.
This guy is going to get a harsh dose of reality.
What you want is impossible with cursory math even for the Howa. Probably even impossible if using used equipment prices.
Assuming common sale/discount prices -
Scope rings (bare minimum usable) - $50
Usable Entry level scope - $550
Howa 1500 barreled action - $425
KRG Bravo - $400
$1425
This doesn't include the KRG tool-less LOP (never seen this on sale)- $299.99
Looking at $1725 or more (likely more)
Tool-less LOP and cheek piece but no folding stock.
---------------------------
Ruger RPR 6.5 creedmoor. Yeah it's in red but you can't be picky because of your budget.
RPR - 1100
Scope rings + entry level Scope - $600
Spray paint (if you must) - $5
$1705
Tool-less adjust LOP and cheek piece, with folding stock.
The key was where I said she won’t shoot much. She is not super recoil sensitive as long as it isn’t a pistol (hand/wrist strength issue), but her shoulder is good, as are the brakes on the chair.
Not bad, though I found the TSPX for a couple hundred less somewhere else. It would be a really good deal either way though were the scope not a potato. I would rather get the rifle by itself for a couple of hundred less then use the difference plus a couple of hundred and put at least a passably decent optic on it, but unfortunately it is only sold as a package. I have however given real consideration to the TSPX as I found it for just a but over $1,000, that leaves plenty of wiggle room for an optic, plus I can then resell the “free” one for a couple hundred back to use on ammunition. One advantage of this one though over the TSPX though is that it’s kind of like the MDT LSS, it looks like I could add a folding stock adaptor and an AR FAB Defense RAPS stock, for a few hundred more, it would pretty well check my boxes.
I actually can get the Howa for $380 something on sale, and I was planning on an Arken for $450, and adding the LOP later when budget allows, but yes, that would strain my budget.
But wow, that is the absolute cheapest that I have ever seen an RPR, by about $3-400 in fact, thankyou for that, you might have just solved my problem! I will look in to that one more. And yes, paint would most certainly be in order, that color makes my damn eyes bleed. Why? Just why, would you do that? Who thought it was a good idea for competition oriented stuff to be painted in the most garish colors possible? I assume that is why that thing is florescent look at me red. Yuck.
Other than the bleeding eyeballs though I am all about that deal.
People who compete in shooting sports. But you're not the target market because you're too broke to compete in any shooting sport.
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Definitely not reading all the comments...
I think your putting too much stock in "tool-less" stock adjustment.
90% you set up a rifle and don't touch it.
Unless this is a rifle for small armed people and long armed people your gonna set it up 1,2 maybe 3 times to get how you want it set. And you will never move it again.
I think your putting too much stock in "tool-less" stock adjustment.
90% you set up a rifle and don't touch it.
Unless this is a rifle for small armed people and long armed people your gonna set it up 1,2 maybe 3 times to get how you want it set. And you will never move it again.
Hey, a man’s gotta eat and have his financial house in order! Lay off the OP fellas.
After you’ve got your rig together, the next task is finding affordable working-class ammo.
Check out wholesalers in Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, or Uzbekistan.
Best way to save a buck is to fly over and buy in bulk. Yeah it’s all steel-cased, but if your fundamentals are solid it’ll be 3/4moa all day every day and twice on Sundays.
When arriving back in the US, just make sure to alert US customs officials in the airport that a couple of containers of ammo will be arriving soon. Make sure to tell them the country. Trust me, this really eases the whole process.
Edit: I may have played this one too dry, fellas. Do not do this if you like to not be in hot water.
After you’ve got your rig together, the next task is finding affordable working-class ammo.
Check out wholesalers in Azerbaijan, Belarus, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, or Uzbekistan.
Best way to save a buck is to fly over and buy in bulk. Yeah it’s all steel-cased, but if your fundamentals are solid it’ll be 3/4moa all day every day and twice on Sundays.
When arriving back in the US, just make sure to alert US customs officials in the airport that a couple of containers of ammo will be arriving soon. Make sure to tell them the country. Trust me, this really eases the whole process.
Edit: I may have played this one too dry, fellas. Do not do this if you like to not be in hot water.
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The first rifle I ever bought myself was a Barrett 98 bravo in 338 Lapua, so I can identify with the desire to "go big" out of the gate. I got a ton of grief on here for doing it. Price was not much of an issue for me. I just wanted capability.
I listened about as well as most men do, said scr&w y'all, and did shoot out to a mile with my Barrett. Thing was, the guys on here were right. Turns out shooting a mile isn't all that much fun and quite dependent on luck, even with a 338. I sold the Barrett after a while, and though I've since built a 338 on a custom (I taught myself how to chamber), it just sits in the safe, just like my 30 Sherman Magnum, just like my 50 BMG, just like my 300 win mag. If I had bought a custom as was recommended, I'd still have it, even though I build my own now. Sometimes owning a thing and using a thing are two different experiences. I shoot mostly all 6mm stuff now and the occasional 6.5 Creedmoor for old times sake. My subsonic suppressed 30-30 with the homoerotic Chris Costa furniture and a red dot gets more reps than all of them on my dualing tree in the back yard.
Keep an eye open for sales. I was able to get my buddy in a solus rifle for less than $1500 before tax because Aero was running a crazy promotion. That's a chassis, custom action, trigger tech primary, and BAMF barrel (not bad at all), for under your total budget.
My advice to you is to buy a good action (Bighorn, solus, ARC, impact, etc), whatever you can get the best deal on. It's a lifetime purchase. Don't scrimp. Quality is cheaper in the long run. Save your money and buy once cry once. You'll thank me later. Don't end up eating hundreds of dollars on a hooptie rifle, or do. It's your money.
Cast1
I listened about as well as most men do, said scr&w y'all, and did shoot out to a mile with my Barrett. Thing was, the guys on here were right. Turns out shooting a mile isn't all that much fun and quite dependent on luck, even with a 338. I sold the Barrett after a while, and though I've since built a 338 on a custom (I taught myself how to chamber), it just sits in the safe, just like my 30 Sherman Magnum, just like my 50 BMG, just like my 300 win mag. If I had bought a custom as was recommended, I'd still have it, even though I build my own now. Sometimes owning a thing and using a thing are two different experiences. I shoot mostly all 6mm stuff now and the occasional 6.5 Creedmoor for old times sake. My subsonic suppressed 30-30 with the homoerotic Chris Costa furniture and a red dot gets more reps than all of them on my dualing tree in the back yard.
Keep an eye open for sales. I was able to get my buddy in a solus rifle for less than $1500 before tax because Aero was running a crazy promotion. That's a chassis, custom action, trigger tech primary, and BAMF barrel (not bad at all), for under your total budget.
My advice to you is to buy a good action (Bighorn, solus, ARC, impact, etc), whatever you can get the best deal on. It's a lifetime purchase. Don't scrimp. Quality is cheaper in the long run. Save your money and buy once cry once. You'll thank me later. Don't end up eating hundreds of dollars on a hooptie rifle, or do. It's your money.
Cast1
There’s a reason I didn’t specifically say a Remington 700.
Lots of options out there based on a 700…..
Those damn no shooting factory 700's. I'll never understand why I bought several of them. This one in particular. There's a year in between those targets. I think the bottom group measured .252"
Hot garbage.
Hot garbage.
Your expectations are not reasonable. If you want to build skill, buy a Ruger Precision Rimfire. You cannot afford to even shoot a centerfire. You won’t build shit without even a $1500/year ammo budget. The truth hurts.
OP, aero is selling their bravo solus for cheap cheap right now. You’d still be lacking a bipod and such, but if you’re considering an arken scope, the solus with krg stock would be really close to the price you’re looking for in a rifle/optic package.
Thanks for that! On sale the Solus is not bad considering that it comes with the chassis, still about $200-$250 more than the Howa 1500, but in this case not outrageously more, and for a considerably better rifle, that, I do not mind (but the normal $800-$850 no way). However the sale ends on the 8th and I don’t get paid until the later in the week, which was when I planned on making my purchase. Unless I can pull off a minor miracle I don’t think that is likely to happen.
It's not a chassis, but it is a damn fine upgrade for a Howa.
stockysstocks.com
NextGen UltraLite Carbon Fiber M50™ Howa 1500/ Weatherby® Vanguard® Stocks
Lightweight Carbon Fiber Howa 1500/ Weatherby Vanguard rifle stock
stockysstocks.com
Adjustable stocks have been used precision bolt guns for decades
As someone else who's not made of money I've had to rethink how I'd afford to stay actively involved in shooting sports while developing my skills. I don't compete but enjoy frequent trips (once every two weeks or weekly if I can fit it in my schedule) to the my local range. So I not only needed to "afford" a rifle but also needed to afford the ammo to shoot often enough to learn and maintain the skills to shoot further than the 100 yards my local public range offers.
I used my initial $1500 rifle budget to purchase a good ready to go 22LR bolt action rifle. I wanted something I need only add an optic to and a bipod or rest and be ready to shoot. And the cost of ammo, even the higher end match ammo, lets me afford shoot 100 or more rounds every range trip while I stashed away some dollars saved to fund the purchase of a centerfire rifle in the future.
A year later and after hunting with an Outfitter supplied Rem700 I purchased my own 700. Now my range trips consist of warming up with a box or two of 22LR then moving on to a box or two 308. During this process I've dipped into that stash of dollars to put that 700 into a Bravo chassis (I prefer traditional rifle stock over pistol grip). More important is that I've become consistent enough to join a private local range (club) where I will be able to shoot out to much longer distances as my skills develope.
Your limited budget and your desire to include your partner might benefit from a similar approach. Something like a 22LR or a lighter recoiling centerfire (223/556?) might be just what you need to afford to shoot more or shoot more rounds whenever you do shoot. And the lighter recoiling rifle won't beat your partner up. Then you'll be able to set aside some funds to purchase or build that long range capable centerfire you're wanting. Meanwhile you and yours are having fun shooting and honing your skills! After all, this is about having fun.
P.S. The post bankruptcy 700 I purchased shot under an inch out of the box even in its flimsy stock.
I used my initial $1500 rifle budget to purchase a good ready to go 22LR bolt action rifle. I wanted something I need only add an optic to and a bipod or rest and be ready to shoot. And the cost of ammo, even the higher end match ammo, lets me afford shoot 100 or more rounds every range trip while I stashed away some dollars saved to fund the purchase of a centerfire rifle in the future.
A year later and after hunting with an Outfitter supplied Rem700 I purchased my own 700. Now my range trips consist of warming up with a box or two of 22LR then moving on to a box or two 308. During this process I've dipped into that stash of dollars to put that 700 into a Bravo chassis (I prefer traditional rifle stock over pistol grip). More important is that I've become consistent enough to join a private local range (club) where I will be able to shoot out to much longer distances as my skills develope.
Your limited budget and your desire to include your partner might benefit from a similar approach. Something like a 22LR or a lighter recoiling centerfire (223/556?) might be just what you need to afford to shoot more or shoot more rounds whenever you do shoot. And the lighter recoiling rifle won't beat your partner up. Then you'll be able to set aside some funds to purchase or build that long range capable centerfire you're wanting. Meanwhile you and yours are having fun shooting and honing your skills! After all, this is about having fun.
P.S. The post bankruptcy 700 I purchased shot under an inch out of the box even in its flimsy stock.
Apply for a 0% credit card. Or, I think with Aero you can buy using Credova, which is 0% within a couple months, so buy now, pay it off when you get paid, or pay half now, pay the 2nd half next month. For the price of the Solus barreled action + the FREE KRG Bravo chassis, you’re looking about $1,100. You will not beat that.
Might be worth considering if this is the game for you overall right now.
One thing for sure if to not get a 300 prc which costs 3x as much as a creed to pull the trigger on.
Consider a 22lr and learning to take that out to a couple hundred yards. It’ll let you shoot much more per dollar, likely closer drive to be able to more often, and no recoil for the gal pal. A 22 at 300 yards is much more impressive to me than a magnum at 1k.
Has never happened to me in 22 years of using rifles with adjustable buttplates and combs in competition (NRA) and casual use.
I'll believe my own experience before I believe hypotheticals read on the internet.
IDK why you always a seem to assume anyone who has a different opinion than you is BS, but I’ve also shot competitively for 20+ years and owned/used nearly every iteration of an AR stock, and while some lock up tighter than others, they all have at least a hint of slop after a while, and none are my first choice for a long range bolt gun.
For bolt gun chassis’ with quick-adjust LOP I’ve had/used KRG, MPA, and MDT and all of them have either loosened up on me or would have if I hadn’t taken action (red Loctite).
For bolt gun chassis’ with quick-adjust LOP I’ve had/used KRG, MPA, and MDT and all of them have either loosened up on me or would have if I hadn’t taken action (red Loctite).
KRG has loosened up? Which iteration/generation?
The two things that very mildly bug me about my KRG W3 are having 10,000 fasteners of 2-3 different sizes and the very very slightly less than rock-solid lockup of the cant (not LOP) of the buttpad.
Its LOP adjustment, however, has absolutely solid lockup.
But hey, stuff breaks and stuff isn’t always made right. Not discounting your experience, but am curious.
In other news, I have read many places that MPA has a fetish for tiny set screws that inevitably loosen.
See this kind of stock adjustment hardware? Zero problems with adjustments moving on their own. Zero problems with adjustment slop.
The comb adjustment on my KRG 180-Xray would creep down until I applied man hands to the knob. No loctite needed.
I'm sorry your experiences are not like mine.
You keep talking about a mile, and "long range".
With your budget (and attitude), you'll be lucky to spot misses at 100 yards.
Jesus Christ what a fucking train wreck.
You’ve got a lot of requirements that will be hard to meet. I’m on a budget too. I would strongly recommend waiting a bit and getting the gun you really want, especially if you don’t plan on getting another anytime soon.
All you guys in here with plenty of 1000 yard shooting experience, is the krg bravos good option? Was thinking about ordering one and couldn’t decide on the krg or solus chassis.
If you can afford to buy the chassis version... Skip the Bravo stock, and go straight to the chassis version.
This keeps getting better and better. Homie has a $1500 budget and wants his disabled girlfriend to be able to shoot it and is looking at 300PRC
This guy is going to get a harsh dose of reality.
Plus I finally read this, which was inside a massive no-line-break missive:
OP after running out of his four 20-rd boxes of ammo while on the 1000yd line with no hits
Honestly the KRG stuff was the most solid out of those 3 by far, but I had some issues with keeping a Bravo’s cheek piece staying put without cranking the crap out if it, and needed to re-crank on it semi-regularly or it’d start to loosen up, same with a W3’s LOP.
I can break nearly anything though lol, so YMMV.
Your taking the rear ACTION SCREW OUT.
No shit it will induce a variable. One of two screws that hold the gun together has been removed.
You always check zero after you have fucked with the action screws.
If you want a folder get a folder.
Just buy a solid chassis. Put the right spacers in the stock and shoot it. No need to break it down and put it together every range trip.
Read more, write less.
I’m not a 1000yd shooter, but not sure how that matters too much. Is 500yds ok? Lol
As someone with a Bravo and a W3…it’s not clear cut for me. I don’t have too much time on the Bravo and a lot more time on the W3.
The Bravo has the same skeleton as the W3. You can change the Bravo into a W3 later (or an X-ray) by bolting on the respective rear ends.
To the forend, you can add almost everything KRG makes onto a Bravo that you can add to a W3. You can even add a W3 cheekpiece with the optional lateral adjustment do-dad to the Bravo. Doesn’t look awesome, but hey.
Butt-wise, the Bravo has the same bag riders, functionally, as the W3.
Sooo, the big diff for me is the feel. I have a custom handgrip from MKM for my W3 that really makes that chassis shine for me, but as they came a few years ago from the factory…I’d hand it to the Bravo for grip feel. Gives me a shorter grip-to-trigger distance. Adding the big grip panels to the W3 isn’t the same.
Keep in mind that KRG has recently redesigned the W3 grip panels, more closely mimicking my custom grip hand position. I might’ve had something to do with that lol. Who knows?
So the grip then might be a wash if you’re buying new. Hard to tell.
Also hard to tell if the Bravo can run the same amount of weight and position of those weights (for balance), as I don’t have any weight kits for the Bravo. Ask them, they respond.
The Bravo does feel like a stock. If you like stocks vs chassis, go that route. I do appreciate the W3 folder sometimes, however!
I’m eying their C4.
Why do you say that? Do you prefer the X Ray back end? Because outside of that they appear to be identical.
See @spife7980 post above... ^^^
I was talking about the Solus chassis vs. the Bravo stock. The modularity of being able to change the grip to any AR grip, built-in ARCA rail full-length of the handguard, more MLOK slots, more adjustability, etc... of the Solus chassis is better than the Bravo stock. My opinion, for just a few hundred bucks more during this sale, you get a better option, compared to the normal much larger price gap of the Aero vs Bravo prices.
Just so I won't be called a poor, and just to piss off the OP, while they're on sale, I went ahead and bought a 4th Solus Chassis Rifle, but this one is in 6.5 Creed with the 22" Sendero barrel. Might build it into a light(ish) weight chassis hunting rifle. Worst case scenario, I decide to snatch the barrel, and make it into something else, with another Proof CF prefit, since you can swap barrels in 10 minutes.
I have a TON of 1x fired range pickup 6.5CM brass that I've already fully-processed other than resizing, so this could be a fun and cheap 6.5CM project.
I have a TON of 1x fired range pickup 6.5CM brass that I've already fully-processed other than resizing, so this could be a fun and cheap 6.5CM project.
OP's just wanting to LARP being a hitman and breaking the rifle down and packing it in a briefcase. Doubt he actually shoots.
Save your breath and put him on ignore.
My wife on a 300winmag. Connected at 1,070 on her second shot.
