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M1A guys, help me out.
- Thread starter Jmccracken1214
- Start date
That’s what I was thinking, but watching SA’s install video, they were changing out pins and shit in the receiver
not sure, don’t remember seeing that piece on the right on my SA loaded M1A when I had it.
Left hole, you can prob install a set screw from the hardware store.
Also, can’t see the top of the stripper clip guide on the right in your pic but is that an Allen head fastener holding it onto the receiver?
ETA: it’s not an Allen head but the roll pin securing the stripper clip guide to the receiver. To remove, you just take the barreled receiver out of the stock then drive it out.
Also, can’t see the top of the stripper clip guide on the right in your pic but is that an Allen head fastener holding it onto the receiver?
ETA: it’s not an Allen head but the roll pin securing the stripper clip guide to the receiver. To remove, you just take the barreled receiver out of the stock then drive it out.
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Leave that part where it is unless you intend to use stripper clips. Doubt you would use them. If left there you can easily install and remove scope.
"Left" hole is 12-32 UNEF, so unlikely to fine a set screw in hardware store to plug it. You could have a light coat of oil in the hole, then put some RTV silicone or something similar to fill it to keep any dirt out. Would create an easy plug to remove later on.
Someone on eBay is selling 12-32 special fine thread set screws in packs of 10 for $26 plus $3.50 for shipping but that’s all I could find in a quick search. They may or may not be a match for that port, you would prob have to research to be sure.
As someone who been there, done that I suggest you do your self a big favor and do a little research on the top M1a scope mounts. You will find much better options.
If your eyes are still good use the iron sights the M1A has some really nice sights.About 40 years ago when i got my first M1A i loved the iron sights now that the eyes are 67 years old everything gets scoped.If you want to scope it Sadlak makes one of the best scope mount for the M1A.
That’s the plan. I’m going to call SA Monday and get a manufacture date on this one. I think it’s older.
I want to take the action out so I can add a bipod stud, but I’ve read that it’s not good to remove it in the glass bedded models
You don't need to do anything to the hole in the side of the receiver. In fact, if you do put a setscrew in it, you run the risk of it interfering with the bolt lug should it vibrate/rotate inward over time.
As was said above, the rear hole is in what would have been the stripper clip guide. If you aren't running stripper clips (does anyone use them in an M14 except to load mags?) Leave it also.
As was said above, the rear hole is in what would have been the stripper clip guide. If you aren't running stripper clips (does anyone use them in an M14 except to load mags?) Leave it also.
A couple other bits of advice on that rifle:
- Yellow circle - the handguard clip nose could be trimmed a little to help the clip be more tight against the handguard. It should also have clearance (1/32" or so) between the clip and stock.
- Blue circle - The handguard clip should be glued to the handguard to limit handguard movement under recoil
- Red circle - The handguard should have about 1/16-1/8" clearance from the receiver face.
- Use some "Right Stuff" RTV at the nose of the handguard where it sits in the (hopefully unitized) front band/gas cylinder and on top of the barrel under the handguard at the back. This prevents handguard movement under recoil.
- Check clearance for the oprod from the stock. Shouldn't be any dragging there either.
- Seal the stock and put a good finish on it like Danish oil or Tru-oil. Humidity will wreak havoc on your ability to be consistent with an M1A with "lumber". Plus the finish will bring out what looks like some nice grain in that walnut.
- If you aren't obsessed with originality, scuff the handguard with a Scotchbrite pad and paint it with H-D wrinkle black paint. It tends to cut glare and mirage when shooting peeps in the hot sun of Range 4 at Quantico ... just sayin
- Yellow circle - the handguard clip nose could be trimmed a little to help the clip be more tight against the handguard. It should also have clearance (1/32" or so) between the clip and stock.
- Blue circle - The handguard clip should be glued to the handguard to limit handguard movement under recoil
- Red circle - The handguard should have about 1/16-1/8" clearance from the receiver face.
- Use some "Right Stuff" RTV at the nose of the handguard where it sits in the (hopefully unitized) front band/gas cylinder and on top of the barrel under the handguard at the back. This prevents handguard movement under recoil.
- Check clearance for the oprod from the stock. Shouldn't be any dragging there either.
- Seal the stock and put a good finish on it like Danish oil or Tru-oil. Humidity will wreak havoc on your ability to be consistent with an M1A with "lumber". Plus the finish will bring out what looks like some nice grain in that walnut.
- If you aren't obsessed with originality, scuff the handguard with a Scotchbrite pad and paint it with H-D wrinkle black paint. It tends to cut glare and mirage when shooting peeps in the hot sun of Range 4 at Quantico ... just sayin
The pin in the receiver they most likely refer to is the roll pin that holds that piece of the mount / or stripper clip guide in place. Like others have said, you’re probably not going to use stripper clips so don’t bother with it. As for scope mounts, Bassett Machine out of Dripping Springs, TX has some good feedback and options. Some mounts you can still use the iron sights if you wish. Several other mounts to read about and choose from around the net. I never mounted the rail or scope that came with my M1A many moons ago. Dewey made/makes a good bore guide for the front and there was a device Creedmoor used to offer to put in the bolt to keep it back, your rod off the bolt face, and kept the solvent off the bedding. NukeMMC has some great advice about the hand guard and sealing the stock. Mine still had the shine after I got the Hawkeye (position in a can, anyone?} off. Also may consider picking up a set of the sight protectors to protect the finish.
Throw that SA scope mount in the garbage. If you really want a scope mount, you want a Sadlak. You will take measurements on your receiver and they will cut the mount for a perfect fit. They stand behind their work and will take care of you. If you are determined to lose the false stripper guide that is on there now, as others said, open the rifle up and the pin must be driven out from top to bottom. They may have included a replacement guide, and pin....Shoot that rifle with irons until you feel you are ready to move into an optic. Many belittle that platform, but it is solid and can be made to shoot very well. The sights may be national match, but that doesn't mean it is bedded. NukeMMC is correct in his advice, that Distinguished Badge speaks for itself. Smoothy8500 has good form...
....finally...a shameless photo of a handsome man, a strong man, and humble....
....finally...a shameless photo of a handsome man, a strong man, and humble....
Thanks for the tips! On sealing the stock, does the stain that’s on it, not protect it from moisture?A couple other bits of advice on that rifle:
- Yellow circle - the handguard clip nose could be trimmed a little to help the clip be more tight against the handguard. It should also have clearance (1/32" or so) between the clip and stock.
- Blue circle - The handguard clip should be glued to the handguard to limit handguard movement under recoil
- Red circle - The handguard should have about 1/16-1/8" clearance from the receiver face.
- Use some "Right Stuff" RTV at the nose of the handguard where it sits in the (hopefully unitized) front band/gas cylinder and on top of the barrel under the handguard at the back. This prevents handguard movement under recoil.
- Check clearance for the oprod from the stock. Shouldn't be any dragging there either.
- Seal the stock and put a good finish on it like Danish oil or Tru-oil. Humidity will wreak havoc on your ability to be consistent with an M1A with "lumber". Plus the finish will bring out what looks like some nice grain in that walnut.
- If you aren't obsessed with originality, scuff the handguard with a Scotchbrite pad and paint it with H-D wrinkle black paint. It tends to cut glare and mirage when shooting peeps in the hot sun of Range 4 at Quantico ... just sayin
View attachment 7636056
I don’t want to do much to permanently alter the rifle.
I am going to call SA today and see if I can get a stripper clip guide so I can remove the optic one and sell it with the mount.
I’ve got enough precision guns, I have no urge to scope this. Nailing Silhouettes out to 500-600 a few times a year with irons will keep me happy with this rifle
Should I remove the action to check for bedding? I’m not sure the age on this but it came in a plano hard case, with the bar codes and serial numbers on it. Says it’s a National match. Which should be beddedThrow that SA scope mount in the garbage. If you really want a scope mount, you want a Sadlak. You will take measurements on your receiver and they will cut the mount for a perfect fit. They stand behind their work and will take care of you. If you are determined to lose the false stripper guide that is on there now, as others said, open the rifle up and the pin must be driven out from top to bottom. They may have included a replacement guide, and pin....Shoot that rifle with irons until you feel you are ready to move into an optic. Many belittle that platform, but it is solid and can be made to shoot very well. The sights may be national match, but that doesn't mean it is bedded. NukeMMC is correct in his advice, that Distinguished Badge speaks for itself. Smoothy8500 has good form...
View attachment 7637979
It's bedded, I can see the material under the receiver. You should keep the scope mount like it is, you can test and evaluate ammo and hand loads(if you load) better to see what shoots the best in the gun. Plus it gives the weapon a multi purpose ability. JMO.
Like the brass in flight.
Have a picture like that myself:
As for your bedding, I haven't seen how SA does their bedding and with what. I always preferred Devcon steel or MarineTex.
Depending on vintage of the assembly, you may need to do a few "tricks" to your rear and front sights to set up for CMP/EIC style shooting:
- Chuck the rifle into a soft-jawed vise and if possible, put a dial indicator on the rear sight ear. Measure travel for at least 1 full rotation of the windage knob. Each click should yield 0.004" of travel (technically 0.00391"). You may notice a difference between clicks of 0.001-0.002". While this won't affect you much at the 200 or 300, it'll hurt at 600/1000. We used to take the base and aperture out, reassemble the elevation and windage knobs and put some 320grit lapping compound under the windage knob lands. About 20 or 30 spins of the knob and you should be pretty close to equal height on all 4 lands on the windage knob.
- Ensure you assemble the sights correctly for tension on the nut on the windage knob and screw on the elevation knob.
- When adjusting your front sight to center the rear sight for windage, remember that about 0.0078" (just use 0.008") per moa. If you zero at 200, and your rear sight base is 10 clicks right of center (5 hash marks) then move your front sight 0.035 - 0.040" left and check windage zero again. You should be within a click of centered.
- You should zero at the minimum yard line to shoot normal matches. Try and put the sight 3 or 4 clicks off the bottom for a 200yd zero. This leaves room for 100yd shooting and shooting in the heat. You'll file down your front sight to move your rear sight zero down. Again, 0.008" per moa. This way, when you shoot 600 and you dial in 15moa of elevation from your 200 zero (total of about 20 clicks up), your rear sight isn't so high as to fully screw up your cheek weld.
The M14/M1A has a 26.75" sight radius. To yield a true moa, the rear must move 0.0078" in relation to the front sight.
Good rear sight info at Fulton Armory
I know everyone raves about the sadlak mount and it is good. Many of us have had good xp with the basset mount which can be used WITH irons. Looks less tacticool, but it works, and you can drop down and use your irons while still having an optic. They also produce a low mount that blocks the irons, but doesn't require you to remove your rear sight.
YMMV (but no one has anything good to say about the SA mount)
At my age, the irons are pretty tough..i can't even see the target but i can hit it (as stupid as that sounds). Optics for me, but if you can do irons, go for it.
YMMV (but no one has anything good to say about the SA mount)
At my age, the irons are pretty tough..i can't even see the target but i can hit it (as stupid as that sounds). Optics for me, but if you can do irons, go for it.
There has been some very wise info provided for you here, but if you want a dedicated M14 group of good folks, come over to https://www.m14forum.com/forums/ It is a goldmine of M14 / M1A info that will build upon the above answers and a whole lot more.
I am a M1A iron sight shooter as well. Pure good times at 500-600 yards with NM irons.
V
www.sadlak.com
Very true......
M1A Scope Mounts| SADLAK M1A / M14 and AR ComponentsM1A Storehttps://www.sadlak.com/m1a-store SADLAK's M1A store offers mulitple scope mounts and accessories for your M1A / M14 rifle. Made in USA at our plant.
SADLAK's M1A store offers mulitple scope mounts and accessories for your M1A / M14 rifle. Made in USA at our plant.M1A Storehttps://www.sadlak.com/m1a-store M1A Scope Mounts| SADLAK M1A / M14 and AR Components
www.sadlak.com
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