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Medium duty diesel help
- Thread starter cast1
- Start date
Ok. I’ll PM as well. Just bought a 2000 f650 dump for my farm. 24v 5.9 Cummins. 6 speed Eaton trans. Thing only had 13k miles. Bed looks like all it ever hauled was sawdust. Inside looks brand new. Check engine light was on but fired right up, smooth idle, no chuffing at the oil fill cap, no tight top radiator hose after driving a bit, no other YouTube used diesel warning signs lol. I can hear the turbo spool up faintly (loud truck) No oil leaks, not a 53 block.
So, I bought it and headed back to Tennessee. On the interstate though, thing is a pig. Not able to maintain speed on hills, etc. I bought it to pull a mini excavator and I can’t see any way it’d do it. I don’t need fast but I need torque.
I ordered a Bluedriver reader and it powers up but won’t read codes. It’s got an OBD port under the dash, but I think it may also have a 9 pin connector.
So, I’d like some direction on a reader that might work. It’s my first diesel so I’m not familiar with what one ought to feel like. It may be that I’d be fine if it was performing to factory expectations. If not, I’d love some direction on how to get a little more pep out of it.
edit: looking around a bit, looks like based on the year it could be a 6 pin port too. I’ll check it out when I get home from work today.
Thanks in advance.
Shep
So, I bought it and headed back to Tennessee. On the interstate though, thing is a pig. Not able to maintain speed on hills, etc. I bought it to pull a mini excavator and I can’t see any way it’d do it. I don’t need fast but I need torque.
I ordered a Bluedriver reader and it powers up but won’t read codes. It’s got an OBD port under the dash, but I think it may also have a 9 pin connector.
So, I’d like some direction on a reader that might work. It’s my first diesel so I’m not familiar with what one ought to feel like. It may be that I’d be fine if it was performing to factory expectations. If not, I’d love some direction on how to get a little more pep out of it.
edit: looking around a bit, looks like based on the year it could be a 6 pin port too. I’ll check it out when I get home from work today.
Thanks in advance.
Shep
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Can you take a picture of the engine tag? Should be in the left side of the engine on the side of the gear case. That year I believe is a 195hp or a 215hp.
The connector for engine diagnostics may be a 9 pin which is a j1939 connector. It is the connector that is used in heavy duty trucks compared to the standard obd 2 port light duty.
I would start with the basic, do a full service in the engine. New fuel filter, air filter, new oil.
The connector for engine diagnostics may be a 9 pin which is a j1939 connector. It is the connector that is used in heavy duty trucks compared to the standard obd 2 port light duty.
I would start with the basic, do a full service in the engine. New fuel filter, air filter, new oil.
I think you are going to need something like this.
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This is probably more up @Mooseknuckles alley. I do F550 down, only every touched a couple of F650-750's. I believe I have access to full service manuals though. I will look in a moment.
I have access to Cummins Quickserve at work. Those 5.9 24v with the vp44 pumps are decent engine. Known for having lift pump issues because of the mounting location. But with 13k on the engine I would think it was a lift pump issue.
I will say this if you need any parts get them from Cummings not from Ford skip the middle man
Got the airdog on the way for the lift pump fix. An ounce of prevention you know?
As suggested did you do a basic service? Especially fuel filters and air filter? Feel free to pm me anytime to bounce some thoughts around.
If it’s a manual trans which it looks to be then it’s the 235hp version. Double check all the regular stuff but also take a look around the exhaust manifold, if there is the slightest leak you are not getting boost. You have very low miles so I don’t think it could be a cracked manifold but I guess it’s possible. Although not as common on the manifolds that the collector is between cylinders 3 and 4 but it’s worth looking.
Every time I see someone throw a "g" in the name Cummins, I automatically disregard everything that person has to say.
Take your topic over here.... Some pretty good guys who are knowledgeable and helpful. Some retired Ford engineers and current Ford techs there as well as some good diesel guys.
Hobo
Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The Ford Truck Enthusiast Resource for News, Rumors, Reviews, and Ownership Information
www.ford-trucks.com
Well that is all good, disregard Siri then, cause that was using voice recognition while doing other things.
If you have a rough idle then yes I would drain the fuel. A good indication of bad fuel is a rough idle
If you are throwing a code, your engine light is on, your engine might be in "limp" mode depending on the code. This would explain it not wanting to keep speed and being weak. It basically de-rates your engine to prevent you from tearing stuff up while allowing you to get to a place where you can get it repaired. I would go to Autozone or a dealership to get the code read.
Next like most posts go, do a full service.
Next like most posts go, do a full service.
change Your fuel filter and make sure you bleed all the air out. Later down the road replace the lift pump with air dog like states above. Really not much else that can go wrong with those engines besides fuel delivery or bad fuel , old diesel can actually grow l
algae in it and ruin your fuel system. I don’t think the 2000 have limp mode. Don’t waste your money on a code reader. These engines are very basic
join a Cummins forum that’s the same engine as a 2500 3500 dodge
that’s a nice truck shouldn’t be to hard getting it going make sure a rat didn’t make a nest in the air box/intake if it can’t breathe it will act that way as well
algae in it and ruin your fuel system. I don’t think the 2000 have limp mode. Don’t waste your money on a code reader. These engines are very basic
join a Cummins forum that’s the same engine as a 2500 3500 dodge
Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums
The leading community dedicated to Dodge Rams powered by the Cummins Turbo Diesel Engine.
www.dieseltruckresource.com
that’s a nice truck shouldn’t be to hard getting it going make sure a rat didn’t make a nest in the air box/intake if it can’t breathe it will act that way as well
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One more vote for full service. Also check for add-on filters. I bought a diesel truck once that someone had added an inline filter too. I never looked for an extra filter and it eventually clogged up. Took me way to long to figure out. But I was young and certainly learned from the experience.
I am pretty sure the ECM does have a limp mode. https://www.fixya.com/cars/t2830674-2000_ford_f650_w_cummins_5_9_td
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Yeah it more than likely is deterred for whatever the active code is. I wonder if there is a way to get the codes via the check engine light (flash codes)...
I don't know on that one. I currently run a management system on my newer RAM to read and clear codes. Every now and then I re-flash the ECM the RAM's are so fickle about power. A slight fluctuation or a battery going out and everything goes to crap!
P-pump conversion, O-rings and studs, injectors from Infinite diesel set at 290 bar using 12V spring in the 24V injector. Set of small twins(60mm over 75mm), add the 12V lift pump. Set the timing at around 16-17 deg. and take it easy on the clutch.
I bought the 24V motor and did the p-pump conversion right off the bat. It was in a 1992 Dodge 3/4 4x4 so the electronics were
pretty simple. Very trouble free. HP can be made to fit your desire. Mine started at 140 and ended up north of 1200. With the VP you could run the right injectors and one of the old Dodgezilla turbos from City Diesel and a modest electronic enhancement and have a clean running 300 or so that wouldn't let the pyro get out of hand. Competition Diesel(forum) could steer you straight and true on a good reliable set up. With that few miles
I'd take good care of it and not get greedy hp wise. Last a long time.
Some BGPANTHERPISS in a gal. of fresh fuel in the tank, wait a while, then run, then purge fuel lines and put on new filters and bleed them and push fuel through the rail or pump, loosen injector lines and low pressure outlet/return line feeds, crank and bleed to purge air and bad fuel.
You need air, fuel, compression, ignition, and they will run.
If they don't, you are missing something from the circle.
I have unhooked pre-air heaters, glowplugs etc. of whatever kind or source of heat and fed them some ether. They will usually pop a bit then, blow up or run. I am not nice to them with ether. WD40 has lube and not so violent.
Amazing how long it takes to purge all air and how many revolutions. Approach with caution. Have you ever seen an engine run away? It is something you will ever forget.
Not familiar with that gearbox, can it have a splitter?/ Hi/Lo
All above thoughts came from off the wall or outerspace so should be approached with caution. YMMV
Running 07 6.7 Cummins with a Saudi chip. Buy clean fuel and keep it clean.
I do on occasion have to plug the chip box in and clear codes.
You need air, fuel, compression, ignition, and they will run.
If they don't, you are missing something from the circle.
I have unhooked pre-air heaters, glowplugs etc. of whatever kind or source of heat and fed them some ether. They will usually pop a bit then, blow up or run. I am not nice to them with ether. WD40 has lube and not so violent.
Amazing how long it takes to purge all air and how many revolutions. Approach with caution. Have you ever seen an engine run away? It is something you will ever forget.
Not familiar with that gearbox, can it have a splitter?/ Hi/Lo
All above thoughts came from off the wall or outerspace so should be approached with caution. YMMV
Running 07 6.7 Cummins with a Saudi chip. Buy clean fuel and keep it clean.
I do on occasion have to plug the chip box in and clear codes.
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You can really juice up a 24v. Probably not something you need or want but it is nice to have it when you need it. Once you start really juicing up the engine you will need to strengthen the rest of the drive train! It can get spendy pretty quickly.
Some good resources about oil and fuel additives,
A Review of Mineral and Synthetic Base Oils - Bob is the Oil Guy
Diesel Fuel Additives - Opti-Lube Additives & Lubricants (opti-lube.com)
Fuel Additive Test - Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel - Diesel Power Magazine (trucktrend.com)
Some good resources about oil and fuel additives,
A Review of Mineral and Synthetic Base Oils - Bob is the Oil Guy
Diesel Fuel Additives - Opti-Lube Additives & Lubricants (opti-lube.com)
Fuel Additive Test - Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel - Diesel Power Magazine (trucktrend.com)
