Mega MATEN cycling issues

[sentry1]

Well, I loc-tited the adjustment screw on the gas block, in case I was getting a leak there, and then got the BCG wet. I mean sloppy wet, like it just got a blowjob from a drinky-girl in an Okinawa bar.

Then I put 20 rounds of M80 ball ammo through it, and it ran like a champ. Fed every round, locked back on the empty mag.

I never thought to just bathe it in lube. I've always used a light touch of lube on the AR15, and that was enough. Live and learn, I guess. Thanks for all the advice guys!

Next problem:

What're these gouges in the brass from, and how can I fix it?

 

[Regalkismet]

Well, I loc-tited the adjustment screw on the gas block, in case I was getting a leak there, and then got the BCG wet. I mean sloppy wet, like it just got a blowjob from a drinky-girl in an Okinawa bar.

Then I put 20 rounds of M80 ball ammo through it, and it ran like a champ. Fed every round, locked back on the empty mag.

I never thought to just bathe it in lube. I've always used a light touch of lube on the AR15, and that was enough. Live and learn, I guess. Thanks for all the advice guys!

Next problem:

What're these gouges in the brass from, and how can I fix it?

Glad to hear.... I like my AR's sloppy wet.... JP rifles has an article on their web page that I mentioned previously that I recommend you read.... They see a lot of rifles severely under lubed.... AR's like their lube especially when new, once well broken in you can use less lube if you desire....once broke in adjust that gas block so its not slamming the bcg as 308's are hard on components if over gassed....that's why I like the Syrac and da7...no worries about loc-tite and adjustment screw.... Idk how many rounds you shot but I'd assume you have enough to start lowering the gas sum. I'm guessing the marks on the brass are from being over gassed..... Or possibly just from everything still being a bit tight, throwing timing off slightly .... Someone else I'm sure with more experience in that area will chime in.

 

[biner626]

Likely it's gouges from sharp corners and burrs on the bolt. Mine beat the brass a little too. Someone on here did a write up/series on smoothing up the bolt on an AR15. I can't remember the title or who did it. Basically they stoned the sharp edges a bit. All it did was accelerated the normal break in. I don't know if its a good idea or not.

 

[Paulyr450]

All of my ar10s leave that gouge from the ejector. The timing is off and before the case has time to cool to get unstuck from the chamber walls its trying to turn the bolt to unlock and eject leaving that mark. My 260 does it that bad and you can try a heavier buffer but i dont think anything will make it go completely away.

 

[Glen Seekins]

If you have a issue with our gas block let me know, but it would have to leak allot of gas to not cycle. We break our guns in very wet and then they run like sewing machines after a few mags with little lube. The reason for the adjustable block is so you dont beat the crap out of you, your gun and brass. Shoot it a bit and then start turning your gas down and it will help save your brass and shoot allot softer.

 

[sentry1]

If you have a issue with our gas block let me know, but it would have to leak allot of gas to not cycle. We break our guns in very wet and then they run like sewing machines after a few mags with little lube. The reason for the adjustable block is so you dont beat the crap out of you, your gun and brass. Shoot it a bit and then start turning your gas down and it will help save your brass and shoot allot softer.

Yep, the combination of running it really wet and a little loc-tite on the screw seemed to fix the issue. I suppose gas leakage might not have been the main, or any issue, but I figured why not eliminate it anyway? It seems to be running OK now.

Glenn, I have two issues with your gas-block, one is just happenstance: the thicker profile of the barrel makes it impossible to adjust the brass set screw, I can't access it once the gas block is installed. The MKM handguard also just doesn't have the holes in the right place to access the gas adjusting screw anyway.
I understand that's not a design flaw, just a configuration incompatibility. So no need to explain that to me guys. I'm going to switch to a front adjusting gas block for this barrel.

The other issue that could be addressed, is the gas tube roll pin hole. Installing that roll pin was a bitch, and I did a lot of swearing. The low pro gas block on my AR15 barrel has a little bevel on the hole, which makes it a lot easier to get that pin installed!

 

[problemchild]

Yep timing is off and that is called "ejector smear". How to tune an adj. gas block. First break in rifle with 100rds wide open. Next load 1 rd into mag. Fire round, adjust gas block until bolt does NOT lock back after firing one round. Turn gas block open 1/4 turn till bcg locks back. You may want to run the gas block 1/2 turn wider open past NO Lock Back.

If still getting "smear" on brass run Tubbs flatwire spring. It has +15 more pressure at bolt full battery holding bolt closed longer. If smear still happens run one notch heavier buffer. If still smears go up another 1 click on buffer weight.

Glad to hear.... I like my AR's sloppy wet.... JP rifles has an article on their web page that I mentioned previously that I recommend you read.... They see a lot of rifles severely under lubed.... AR's like their lube especially when new, once well broken in you can use less lube if you desire....once broke in adjust that gas block so its not slamming the bcg as 308's are hard on components if over gassed....that's why I like the Syrac and da7...no worries about loc-tite and adjustment screw.... Idk how many rounds you shot but I'd assume you have enough to start lowering the gas sum. I'm guessing the marks on the brass are from being over gassed..... Or possibly just from everything still being a bit tight, throwing timing off slightly .... Someone else I'm sure with more experience in that area will chime in.