Okay, I apologize for this potentially simple question, but I am a total newbie when I comes to using mil dots, so please don't tear me to shreds, I'm seriously trying to learn.
I'm using a 2nd focal plane Nightforce with an MLR reticule, hash marks every 1/2 MIL, 1/10mil turrets.
Zeroed the scope at 100 yards using the -1.5 MIL hash mark, which allows me to allegedly get to 700 with a 5 mil drop (.308, 168BTHP, 2600fps, calculated by JBM software). Never tested it yet, as I have only had 200 yards to work with at the local range. Only shot up a large piece of poster board to confirm that the hash marks do in fact move the bullet the appropriate distance. Always shot at full magnification while testing.
Anyway, at 200 yards, the bullet hits .9 mils high according to my computer generated dope sheet. I regularly shoot by holding one mil low, just below the center of the x ring. I don't dial at all. Just hold down one mil and fire. Seems to work fine.
Yesterday, first shot, cold bore I do the usual hold down one mil and fire. Bullet hits about 2 inches ABOVE the x. Odd. I fire again, 2nd round hits 1/2" left and 1/2" below the first shot.
I come down 3 clicks, which I think should be 2.16 (.36 at 200 yards should =.72x3 or 2.16")" Fire again. Closer, but still 3/4" to 1" HIGH. Fire again, same thing.
Select different target. Fire five rounds without touching anything on the scope. 4 rounds go into 3/4" group centered about 1" high above the X. Fifth shot goes low and right about 1", undoubtedly my fault.
Stop shooting and look at all my equipment. Discover that the scope is not set to maximum magnification. Dial it up to full power. Click back to zero. Fire. Miss the x by 1/2" Fire again, same thing. Zoom out a bit, fire, round hits 1" high. Fire again, same thing. Zoom back in. Fire. Round hits 1/2" off X. Fire again. same thing.
So, other than I need to study more, my thoughts are that:
A - Being a second focal plane scope, I need to be zoomed all the way in if using ANY of the hold over points on the reticule, o/w I'm not "holding over" the correct amount of distance.
B - Making adjustments using the turrets will not work correctly if I am at a lower magnification and using the MLR reticule to hold over or under, as I am still holding off more than I think I am.
This doesn't seem right, as the adjustments are still 1/10 MIL so one click equals one click, regardless of magnification. I'm wondering if I used the center of the reticle, calculated my drop and clicked down an appropriate amount if this would work (i.e. - bullet SHOULD hit .9 mills high at 200 yards with a 300 yard zero. Had I dialed in any magnification, but come down two clicks and aimed using the <span style="font-weight: bold">center</span> of the reticule, I should be roughly .2 inches off the x. Yes? No?
On a related note, would a FFP scope solve these problems (i.e. can you zoom freely while using any hold over point on the reticule and still maintain the appropriate distance required for the shot? If so, I now see why I should have invested in a FFP scope, and will most likely do so in the future.
Like I said I am new at this, and am now totally confused. Any help would be appreciated. To date, I have spent most of my time trying to determine the distance of known sized objects. I hadn't actually tried to figure distance and then actually HIT said object. Seems I need to keep track of a lot more variables.
Thanks for any replies.
Greg
I'm using a 2nd focal plane Nightforce with an MLR reticule, hash marks every 1/2 MIL, 1/10mil turrets.
Zeroed the scope at 100 yards using the -1.5 MIL hash mark, which allows me to allegedly get to 700 with a 5 mil drop (.308, 168BTHP, 2600fps, calculated by JBM software). Never tested it yet, as I have only had 200 yards to work with at the local range. Only shot up a large piece of poster board to confirm that the hash marks do in fact move the bullet the appropriate distance. Always shot at full magnification while testing.
Anyway, at 200 yards, the bullet hits .9 mils high according to my computer generated dope sheet. I regularly shoot by holding one mil low, just below the center of the x ring. I don't dial at all. Just hold down one mil and fire. Seems to work fine.
Yesterday, first shot, cold bore I do the usual hold down one mil and fire. Bullet hits about 2 inches ABOVE the x. Odd. I fire again, 2nd round hits 1/2" left and 1/2" below the first shot.
I come down 3 clicks, which I think should be 2.16 (.36 at 200 yards should =.72x3 or 2.16")" Fire again. Closer, but still 3/4" to 1" HIGH. Fire again, same thing.
Select different target. Fire five rounds without touching anything on the scope. 4 rounds go into 3/4" group centered about 1" high above the X. Fifth shot goes low and right about 1", undoubtedly my fault.
Stop shooting and look at all my equipment. Discover that the scope is not set to maximum magnification. Dial it up to full power. Click back to zero. Fire. Miss the x by 1/2" Fire again, same thing. Zoom out a bit, fire, round hits 1" high. Fire again, same thing. Zoom back in. Fire. Round hits 1/2" off X. Fire again. same thing.
So, other than I need to study more, my thoughts are that:
A - Being a second focal plane scope, I need to be zoomed all the way in if using ANY of the hold over points on the reticule, o/w I'm not "holding over" the correct amount of distance.
B - Making adjustments using the turrets will not work correctly if I am at a lower magnification and using the MLR reticule to hold over or under, as I am still holding off more than I think I am.
This doesn't seem right, as the adjustments are still 1/10 MIL so one click equals one click, regardless of magnification. I'm wondering if I used the center of the reticle, calculated my drop and clicked down an appropriate amount if this would work (i.e. - bullet SHOULD hit .9 mills high at 200 yards with a 300 yard zero. Had I dialed in any magnification, but come down two clicks and aimed using the <span style="font-weight: bold">center</span> of the reticule, I should be roughly .2 inches off the x. Yes? No?
On a related note, would a FFP scope solve these problems (i.e. can you zoom freely while using any hold over point on the reticule and still maintain the appropriate distance required for the shot? If so, I now see why I should have invested in a FFP scope, and will most likely do so in the future.
Like I said I am new at this, and am now totally confused. Any help would be appreciated. To date, I have spent most of my time trying to determine the distance of known sized objects. I hadn't actually tried to figure distance and then actually HIT said object. Seems I need to keep track of a lot more variables.
Thanks for any replies.
Greg
