I have a Remington 700 Sendero in 300 WM. I have a Vais brake on now. I think it still kicks like a horse. I was told a Muscle Brake would help the recoil much more than the one I currently have. So what do you guys think? Would it make much difference? And if it would, would one of their models be able to screw on to my barrel now without more tooling? Thanks for the help. I am new to rifles. I love shooting this but it gets a little painful....
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Muzzle brake question
- Thread starter AndrewS
- Start date
Some brakes are definitely more effective than others, especially when it comes to magnum cartridges. Generally I think the larger the cartridge, the larger you need your brake ports, not a bunch of cylindrical holes. And while I don't have experience with those brakes you listed, my educated guess would be the larger ported design of the Muscle Brake would be more effective at taming a .300WM.
I just did a post with a short review of the Benchmark Muscle brakes, they are extremely effective at reducing recoil on the larger calibers.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...hmark-barrels-muzzle-brake-reveiw**-pics.html
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...hmark-barrels-muzzle-brake-reveiw**-pics.html
I just read that. Thanks for sharing. Is it possible to just replace the one I have with one of those that do not require a clamp on?
You should check out the M41 from Precision Armament. The M11 is great too. If you're comfortable timing your own brake the M11 would get my vote for the most effective recoil reduction around. Put one on a buddy's .338 Lapua and never heard the end of how happy he was. The M41 requires no timing and not only does it do a great job reducing recoil, but also mitigates torsional recoil if you feel the effects of the bullet's spin in your recoil impulse. Both are fantastic options and what I have been using exclusively on any non-suppressed build for the past couple years.
I've been using a muscle brake on my 300 RUM for several years now and it tames that beast down to kitten level. It's not a problem to put 50 rounds downrange on a long range day and keep smiling. As for whether or not it can go on your rig as is, it depends on what size threads were put on your barrel and then you will still need to time the brake.
i reeeeeeally like this one
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...45-apa-gen-ii-fat-bastard-little-bastard.html
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...45-apa-gen-ii-fat-bastard-little-bastard.html
Badger Ordnance FTE's are excellent in reducing recoil. Plus, you can easily remove for cleaning or, if you have a can as well. I had one on my GAP 300 Win Mag and it felt like a mild .308.
Thank you all for the great advice!! Newbie questions.... What does it mean to time the break and how do I know the thread on my rifle now?
Yep, you definitely want the one you don't have to time (i.e. you just thread that biotch on and apply the proper torque). There are a bunch out there. Out of the ones I mentioned that would be the Precision Armament M41. GL...
5/8-24 is pretty typical if its factory threading. Timing the break refers to cutting the threads on the muzzle so the brake indexes or "clocks" to the correct position, meaning ports are 9 and 3 o'clock.
Thank you all so much for your help. I have a window open to all the brakes mentioned above. I'll call and ask some questions to them. Thank you!!!
So now that I've been looking at them all side by side, is it safe to say the one with the largest and greatest number of ports will be most effective?
Andrew, Idaho ctd here on the hide makes great brakes too. Apa far bastard also makes great brakes.
Jec customs also gets another vote.
As long as you stick with brakes with great reviews you won't go wrong. I wouldn't worry too much about the price vs quality here as the 3 I mentioned all vary from 45-150 range, but they all are effective. Some companies specifically make brakes for the magnums and have advertisements for them. (Ie apa, if someone can link I can't find that video where it's
On the bench and shot before/after brake)
Jec customs also gets another vote.
As long as you stick with brakes with great reviews you won't go wrong. I wouldn't worry too much about the price vs quality here as the 3 I mentioned all vary from 45-150 range, but they all are effective. Some companies specifically make brakes for the magnums and have advertisements for them. (Ie apa, if someone can link I can't find that video where it's
On the bench and shot before/after brake)
Ok so I looked up the break I have. It's Vais 5/8"-32 Thread .875" Outside Diameter. I talked to the smith that put it on this morning too and he said that is an uncommon size. Said he would need to do it all over again. Now knowing the specifics of what I have, do any of you know a manufacturer that makes this thread size that would not need to be timed? Thank you all again for your help!
That is gonna be a tough thread pitch to find, most are gonna be 5/8x24 so cans will also thread on. The Benchmark tactical, formerly the Benchmark Muscle, will time with shims and the supplied set screw. But with your pitch you will need to either take it down to 1/2x28 or redo the tennon to 5/8x24 but that will require cutting off the existing threads.
Call me at the shop if you need a hand.
Chris
Benchmark Barrels
Call me at the shop if you need a hand.
Chris
Benchmark Barrels
Thanks Chris! I was gonna call you this morning but we are on the same time zone and I got out early. I will give you a call about the tactical. I appreciate all the help everyone!
Wouldn't it be easier to buy an unthreaded brake and tap it to match the threads on your barrel? I don't know if any of the mentioned manufacturers will sell one untapped, but I would think one of them would be willing to provide one to help solve your problem.
Ihave the muscle brake on my 7mmRm shootin 154s ,it now kicks less than a 30-30 ,shot them back to back. absolutely love it.p.s. it will clear the benches at the range on both sides of you,ha,ha haa, lmao
The problem with tapping a break with a hand tap is its easy to get the tap out of alignment and make your threads untrue, thats why tapping is always done single point in a lathe or cnc. No one likes baffle strikes
Chris
Benchmark
Chris
Benchmark
The problem with tapping a break with a hand tap is its easy to get the tap out of alignment and make your threads untrue, thats why tapping is always done single point in a lathe or cnc. No one likes baffle strikes
Chris
Benchmark
I didn't mean to hand tap it - I meant to have the smith tap it as you described, since he would have to be the one re-cutting the threads on the barrel anyway. It would allow a solution without having to screw with the barrel.
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Andrew,
I ordered my rifle from Charlie and have his muzzle brake on my 300WM. It shoots WAAAY more mild than my heavy barrel .308 w/out a brake shot.
Score High Gunsmithing, Muzzle brakes,Cerakote, Bedding Epoxy and Pillar Bedding kits
Nice guy, quality product. My 300WM is a pleasure to shoot recoil wise. Anyone within 15-20feet of you may think you're shooting a Lapua though!
Happy shooting!
-G45
I ordered my rifle from Charlie and have his muzzle brake on my 300WM. It shoots WAAAY more mild than my heavy barrel .308 w/out a brake shot.
Score High Gunsmithing, Muzzle brakes,Cerakote, Bedding Epoxy and Pillar Bedding kits
Nice guy, quality product. My 300WM is a pleasure to shoot recoil wise. Anyone within 15-20feet of you may think you're shooting a Lapua though!
Happy shooting!
-G45
