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My .308s at 300 yards
- Thread starter pmclaine
- Start date
Too many carbs are a no go. Some carbs are ok for post workout recovery.
Besides Navy SOS is with tomato gravy (no flour) and you can always use keto bread for toast.
At the risk of further sidetracking this thread:
Cabelas bought them out sometime around 1981 or so. I too spent many hours studying every page of their catalogs. I still have a couple of their catalogs from the mid 70's. Also still have a relatively good quality tent from them. Everything they had was "world famous" "world's finest" etc. They were the poor man's Abercrombie and Fitch.
A couple pictures I stole off the internet
I don’t recall getting a Herters catalog.
Reminds me of a place that used to exist in the Uber lib town next door.
A gun shop called Ivanhoes in a building built in the wattle and daub, exposed beam style.
Tales of trash cans with surplus war rifles jammed in them.
Huh, quick Google search shows they still exist…..
Posted my 3 incher…..
Going to be a tough day I think.
Using a rifle that must stay in 3 inches at 300 to be acceptable but it’s a quirky beast that requires frequent love and attention.
The circle may not look as tattered as my Boo gun creates but it will be scared.
We wore matching clothes…..
Going to be a tough day I think.
Using a rifle that must stay in 3 inches at 300 to be acceptable but it’s a quirky beast that requires frequent love and attention.
The circle may not look as tattered as my Boo gun creates but it will be scared.
We wore matching clothes…..
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Chatty Cathy here. Dude must get tons of time to shoot. Always here when I’m here.
Give him credit his optimism. Scoped M1A continually shoots at 1” dots at 300 yards.
Give him credit his optimism. Scoped M1A continually shoots at 1” dots at 300 yards.
Chatty Cathy just showed me that he used his case extractor to remove a piece of brass from his M1A.
It’s normal, has to be or they wouldn’t make a case head extractor.
I told him to check his lot of brass for impending separations with a bent paperclip. He is on his 4th or 5th reloading.
I suggested he check his shoulder set back/ Headspace with his sized brass.
He said no problem they are not high pressure loads.
Guy is literally a rocket scientist but I think there is good chance next launch someone will have to verbally describe what he can not see visually.
It’s normal, has to be or they wouldn’t make a case head extractor.
I told him to check his lot of brass for impending separations with a bent paperclip. He is on his 4th or 5th reloading.
I suggested he check his shoulder set back/ Headspace with his sized brass.
He said no problem they are not high pressure loads.
Guy is literally a rocket scientist but I think there is good chance next launch someone will have to verbally describe what he can not see visually.
Much better than my expectations…..
I love that everything is horizontal save the three low right and one of those was prior to my final dope adjust - shot 2.
I love that everything is horizontal save the three low right and one of those was prior to my final dope adjust - shot 2.
What I think I see…..
Using my antique 168s because I think semi handles them better…..sure whatever you say.
Last time at 100 with M118LR
Using my antique 168s because I think semi handles them better…..sure whatever you say.
Last time at 100 with M118LR
Targets…….Up!
3 out, nothing on brown paper. I’ll take that.
The LMT was my first “high end” gun I bought. The reason I found the Hide was researching my one “high end” gun buy.
Originally it sported an S&B 5-25x.
When it wouldn’t give me the accuracy I wanted I started buying high end bolt guns.
3 out, nothing on brown paper. I’ll take that.
The LMT was my first “high end” gun I bought. The reason I found the Hide was researching my one “high end” gun buy.
Originally it sported an S&B 5-25x.
When it wouldn’t give me the accuracy I wanted I started buying high end bolt guns.
I’m a fraud.
First range book with a ruler big enough to measure the target.
They are actually 4”
Dope was 1.4 mils/ 0 w.
Wondering about 1.3 mils? If only there were 1.35 mils to set.
First range book with a ruler big enough to measure the target.
They are actually 4”
Dope was 1.4 mils/ 0 w.
Wondering about 1.3 mils? If only there were 1.35 mils to set.
I have reverted and will shoot 308 out of both my AIs. I just got a new blank for my MC but am waiting to get it chambered. Been shooting only 308 out of the AT and loving it.
I have one more rifle coming in 308 and I am done.
I personally like 6x5 drills at 300 yards but I don't do it as often as I should as the range is 40 minutes away.
Much easier when the range was on the ride home and I would still be home by 5:30.
Still have the same commute but I don’t leave work till 5:30 - first world problems.
.308 is plenty of fun. I have “sniped” a few cases of ammo when it pops up at “reasonable” prices for todays market.
Twenty rounds is my perfect range session - not close to fatiguing - good representation of what a rifle will pattern like with me behind it. Weight of rifle matters with the .308. Heavier the better.
Heavy….
Light….
I do like 5x5 that’s usually my 100 yard drill. Move on to the next group before your aim point is blown out.
Still have the same commute but I don’t leave work till 5:30 - first world problems.
.308 is plenty of fun. I have “sniped” a few cases of ammo when it pops up at “reasonable” prices for todays market.
Twenty rounds is my perfect range session - not close to fatiguing - good representation of what a rifle will pattern like with me behind it. Weight of rifle matters with the .308. Heavier the better.
Heavy….
Light….
I do like 5x5 that’s usually my 100 yard drill. Move on to the next group before your aim point is blown out.
Agree with the number of rounds and weight. My MC is 21 pounds and the AT is 16-17. I use MTU contour barrels. My new blank from PROOF is almost 8 pounds!
Not sure what the new rifle will weigh.
WTF? Does no one shoot? My backer paper from last Friday!
My rifle is zeroed at 100 on the 2 mil hold under. I won’t adjust turrets on the $300 Leupold. I only hold on the reticle and a 2 under gives me out to about 700 yards on 9X. If I demag to 4.5 I can go 1000. Target is set up with a 1.4 aiming point hoping that bullets fall in the 4 inch circle. I have provided +.1 and -.1 aiming points.
My rifle is zeroed at 100 on the 2 mil hold under. I won’t adjust turrets on the $300 Leupold. I only hold on the reticle and a 2 under gives me out to about 700 yards on 9X. If I demag to 4.5 I can go 1000. Target is set up with a 1.4 aiming point hoping that bullets fall in the 4 inch circle. I have provided +.1 and -.1 aiming points.
I think they will all be under my desired impact target but in keeping with the idea to check group and not care about the target I will keep going.
Either my drawing is wrong or my 2 mil under zero has wandered. Looked like when I held 2 under the 1 under was dead center of the impact target. That makes sense if I am hitting . Mils low still.
Either my drawing is wrong or my 2 mil under zero has wandered. Looked like when I held 2 under the 1 under was dead center of the impact target. That makes sense if I am hitting . Mils low still.
Had to hold my 2 mil dot out in space high and left of my Aimpoint but still wasn’t on my target.
As I’m interested in groups I just ran with it to see what the rifle would do..
POA is marked.
Clean cold bore was right side limit.
Shot 15 was low limit.
Two shots were left pulls.
One really high shot must of been me using a 1 mil hold under rather than the two - bonehead move.
Real ability for this rifle is circled and is 2-3 inches across at 300 yards.
Could have easily held other side of center line and 3 inches higher to get in the 4” circle.
This rifle is intended for fun using mil dot holds only. It’s a favorite.
I may have to work that zero some. I think I can do a scope adjustment off this to tweak things a bit.
One rifle left.
As I’m interested in groups I just ran with it to see what the rifle would do..
POA is marked.
Clean cold bore was right side limit.
Shot 15 was low limit.
Two shots were left pulls.
One really high shot must of been me using a 1 mil hold under rather than the two - bonehead move.
Real ability for this rifle is circled and is 2-3 inches across at 300 yards.
Could have easily held other side of center line and 3 inches higher to get in the 4” circle.
This rifle is intended for fun using mil dot holds only. It’s a favorite.
I may have to work that zero some. I think I can do a scope adjustment off this to tweak things a bit.
One rifle left.
Gonna need to do some fingering on whether I should adjust my zero any or not.
Any ballersticians in here?
I think my windage is good. The left right lines up with my hold.
My Kestrel.
So I held a skooch higher than 1.5 mils. I sat the bottom of the mil dot on the black line and the right side of the mil dot on center line.
Any ballersticians in here?
I think my windage is good. The left right lines up with my hold.
My Kestrel.
So I held a skooch higher than 1.5 mils. I sat the bottom of the mil dot on the black line and the right side of the mil dot on center line.
That is strange
My Kestrel shows 1.3 Mils @300 yards for M118LR with an MV of 2600 with a 100-yard zero and a bore height of 2.43 inches. I use a 12 twist barrel. I am using AB's custom drag model not G1 or G7.
It is spot on at 300 yards
0.3 mils difference is about 3" @ 300
Just about every .308 I shoot is 1.4 at 300 and conditions will make it a .1 up or .1 under.
I think I see my screw up.
I did not add the .4 mils to my aim point.
At the bottom of the board I have
3.6 X 3 = 10.8” = 1.4 mils
No it doesn’t.
That equals 1 mil at 300.
My aim point should have been .4 mil higher.
(.4 X 3.6) X 3 = (1.44”) X 3 = 4.32”
So from desired point of impact my zero hold would be….
10.8” + 4.32” = 15.12”
A tenth plus or minus =
.36 X 3 = 1.08”
I’m thinking my scope zero is good and my drawing and attention to detail sucks.
I’ll be getting the markers out again and drawing a new target.
I am happy with that core group considering I held the dot pretty much in space. That rifle has a stiff trigger. I think it’s the only of my 700s with a “new” trigger.
Everything else is Walkers from the 60s with tombstones and twin sears.
I think I see my screw up.
I did not add the .4 mils to my aim point.
At the bottom of the board I have
3.6 X 3 = 10.8” = 1.4 mils
No it doesn’t.
That equals 1 mil at 300.
My aim point should have been .4 mil higher.
(.4 X 3.6) X 3 = (1.44”) X 3 = 4.32”
So from desired point of impact my zero hold would be….
10.8” + 4.32” = 15.12”
A tenth plus or minus =
.36 X 3 = 1.08”
I’m thinking my scope zero is good and my drawing and attention to detail sucks.
I’ll be getting the markers out again and drawing a new target.
I am happy with that core group considering I held the dot pretty much in space. That rifle has a stiff trigger. I think it’s the only of my 700s with a “new” trigger.
Everything else is Walkers from the 60s with tombstones and twin sears.
Had I drawn my shooting aid correctly….
I have to find a way to make this harder and dumber.
I have to find a way to make this harder and dumber.
See if I can’t spend 20 bullets before the rain comes in…..
Interesting that the stock reinforcing pin is countersunk now. My morning wood must be engorged
My Billy Beroo go to rifle will put them all in the black from shot 1, but perhaps if this new one and I get more intimate it could reach its potential.
First shots were falling low.
I had to go 1.6E/.1R and started grouping. @Nik H will say that is way too much E for 175FGMM and I agree. I will have to check my 100 yard zero.
12 shots are within a 1.5 inch ring….
First shots were falling low.
I had to go 1.6E/.1R and started grouping. @Nik H will say that is way too much E for 175FGMM and I agree. I will have to check my 100 yard zero.
12 shots are within a 1.5 inch ring….
