My new setup. Now some advice. Please.

[Jefe's Dope]

I just finished the install of my Forster Co-Ax press and created a space on my workbench for reloading. Exclusively 6.5 CM for now.

What advice would you give a guy who's never reloaded or operated a press whatsoever?

Forster Co-Ax press.
Whidden die set.
Hodgdon H4350.
Berger 140 gr. Hybrid.
Hornady 140 gr. ELD Matach.
Lapua brass.
Various once loaded brass majority Hornady.
CCI No. 450 and BR-2 primers.
RCBS Chargemaster.
Hornady One Shot case lube.
RCBS powder funnel.
Digital calipers.
A willingness to learn.

 

[Lonestar1027]

Go slow. Check your measurements. Check them again. Write everything down and work with your reloading manual open. I use the same press, powder scale, dies and primers and was able to get my SD down in the single digits over 10 shots. Good luck!

Leave your chargemaster on for a bit before zeroing etc so it can warm up. If you want, there is a guy on here selling an insert/sleeve for the chargemaster that helps prevent overthrows. Highly recommended and worth the $17.

 

[TheGerman]

Needs more posters with half naked women.

 

[TripleBull]

Needs more posters with half naked women.

Dunno, fully naked hot chick posters have been shown to improve your concentricity.

Your gear looks great for starting up. I like Imperial lube better than spray. If you need instructional stuff, as above get reloading manuals and maybe a book like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1571573712/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_68?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or a Glenn Zediker book, etc. You can find plenty of how-to right here if you dig deep.

 

[MarkCO]

Only thing I have to add...I don't like presses on the sides of benches due to flex.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Only thing I have to add...I don't like presses on the sides of benches due to flex.

It's directly over the leg. There are six legs on this particular bench and the top is 2" thick. I've noticed no flex so far.

 

[straightshooter1]

Clean your brass with rice as it does a good job and act like a lubricant inside the neck, so there's no reason to ever put lube inside. Also, after cleaning with rice, it makes for smooth and consistent seating of the bullet. Note: if you use rice, don't use long grain rice as they are skinny enough to get into the flash hole and create additional work to get them out. You need white rice (that is short and fat).

One of the best things I did for reloading was when I switched to Forster seating and their neck bumping/sizing die. Yes, they're a little pricey, but the benefits you get in precision loading is worth it. Here:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...s/ultra-micrometer-seater-dies-prod59246.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...eedmoor-bushing-bump-neck-die-prod109571.aspx

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Clean your brass with rice as it does a good job and act like a lubricant inside the neck, so there's no reason to ever put lube inside. Also, after cleaning with rice, it makes for smooth and consistent seating of the bullet. Note: if you use rice, don't use long grain rice as they are skinny enough to get into the flash hole and create additional work to get them out. You need white rice (that is short and fat).

One of the best things I did for reloading was when I switched to Forster seating and their neck bumping/sizing die. Yes, they're a little pricey, but the benefits you get in precision loading is worth it. Here:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...s/ultra-micrometer-seater-dies-prod59246.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...eedmoor-bushing-bump-neck-die-prod109571.aspx

Great tip for the rice. I have a 20lb bag in the garage I've had for 'just in case' that I will put to use. Any recommendations for a media tumbler? On that note, do I necessarily need to clean my once fired brass? Just the primer pockets? And does my new Lapua brass need to be sized before I load it? I measured and it's right where my resized once fired brass is after resizing. I'm assuming I don't need to clean the new brass.

Also, I have the Whidden die set which is very similar to the Forster you linked. I believe it might even be a step up. Did I misunderstand which die set to get? The Whidden came HIGHLY recommended. As in it's a luxury when a lesser $ die set would do.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-016-196

I think I need a bullet puller. Any recommendations? And which reloading manual? I'm definitely going w/ a Hornady due to being their wildcat and I'm using their bullets.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Go slow. Check your measurements. Check them again. Write everything down and work with your reloading manual open. I use the same press, powder scale, dies and primers and was able to get my SD down in the single digits over 10 shots. Good luck!

Leave your chargemaster on for a bit before zeroing etc so it can warm up. If you want, there is a guy on here selling an insert/sleeve for the chargemaster that helps prevent overthrows. Highly recommended and worth the $17.

Do you have a link to this insert? I'm not gonna skimp on a $17 part if it improves this setup. Thank you.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Needs more posters with half naked women.

What do you think that MacBook Pro is for? Limitless ½ nekkid wimmins at my fingertips.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Dunno, fully naked hot chick posters have been shown to improve your concentricity.

Your gear looks great for starting up. I like Imperial lube better than spray. If you need instructional stuff, as above get reloading manuals and maybe a book like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1571573712/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_68?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or a Glenn Zediker book, etc. You can find plenty of how-to right here if you dig deep.

How does one apply and or use Imperial lube? I just threw used cases in a ziplock sandwich back, hit it with a squirt or two of the spray and rotated them around by holding the outside of the bag. I've resized 20 cases and none of them hinted at sticking in the die. Is it the bullet setting I need to worry about w/ the lube?

 

[demolitionman]

Resist the urge full length resize 50 rounds quickly only to find out you hydraulically dented all 50 case shoulders on your brand new brass......
Aka added too much sizing lube

 

[MotorOilMcCall]

My only input is if you're right handed, you may prefer the press on the right side of the bench... I had mine on the left, as it's out of the way more... I found it easier to grab bullets with my left hand, put them in the neck, and work the press with my right hand.

If you're a southpaw, you're gtg.

The laptop around powder can be trouble... inevitably you'll spill a pan or case at least once, and getting that stuff out of a keyboard is hell... I keep mine up on a higher shelf, with the mouse down on the bench.

Nice setup otherwise.

 

[demolitionman]

Have a nice pen type flashlight so when you are done adding powder you can shine inside the cases in the reloading block and confirm you actually DO have powder in every single one. Seen a few guys at matches try to shoot without powder......

 

[padom]

Great tip for the rice. I have a 20lb bag in the garage I've had for 'just in case' that I will put to use. Any recommendations for a media tumbler? On that note, do I necessarily need to clean my once fired brass? Just the primer pockets? And does my new Lapua brass need to be sized before I load it? I measured and it's right where my resized once fired brass is after resizing. I'm assuming I don't need to clean the new brass.

Also, I have the Whidden die set which is very similar to the Forster you linked. I believe it might even be a step up. Did I misunderstand which die set to get? The Whidden came HIGHLY recommended. As in it's a luxury when a lesser $ die set would do.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-016-196



I think I need a bullet puller. Any recommendations? And which reloading manual? I'm definitely going w/ a Hornady due to being their wildcat and I'm using their bullets.

I've had 3 Whidden sets, a 6.5cm and 2 6.5x47L.. They were junk. I own and have owned them all, Forster, Redding, Whidden, Hornady, etc. I only use Forster and Redding for Micrometer pistol dies since Forster doesnt sell them. I was getting terrible runout in the .007-.01 range. Sent it back and they sent me a replacement. Did that 2 times with the 6.5x47L dies... Runout checked at all stages with a 21st Century Concentricity Gauge.

Forster gives the least amount of runout of any dies I have tested. Their FL sizing die set to bump the shoulder .0015-.002 for a bolt gun and their Ultra Micrometer seater will give you extremely straight ammo.

There are various threads on the Hide of people also have issues with Whidden dies. Forster is the one that invented the sliding sleeve seating die by which all others have copied.


As others have suggested, ditch the One Shot and grab a can of Imperial Sizing Wax. One can will last you probably a lifetime depending how much you reload. All reloaders should have the following tools

Hornady Case Comparator to Measure case headspace and control shoulder bump when setting up your Sizing die

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-HK66...34295&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+case+comparator


Hornady Bullet Comparator Set to measure Base to Ogive when seating bullets. Dont ever measure COAL its inconsistent
(If you dont want to buy the entire set you can buy just the body and the .26 insert for .264 bullets if thats all your reloading)

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-B14-...34295&sr=8-2&keywords=hornady+case+comparator

Hornady Overall Length Gauge and MOdified Case - To Find the distance to your lands in your rifle so you know the overall length to start your reloading at. Generall .01-.02 off the lands is where you should do load development to find your node.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012747079/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-bolt-action


You need one of these modified cases for every caliber your reloading for. This is the 6.5cm modified case you need
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-A65C...&sr=1-7&keywords=hornady+overall+length+gauge

 

[nexusfire]

I found the McDonald's straw mod works better on the CM. Plus they are cheap!

 

[spife7980]

Great tip for the rice. I have a 20lb bag in the garage I've had for 'just in case' that I will put to use. Any recommendations for a media tumbler? On that note, do I necessarily need to clean my once fired brass? Just the primer pockets? And does my new Lapua brass need to be sized before I load it? I measured and it's right where my resized once fired brass is after resizing. I'm assuming I don't need to clean the new brass.
I just use a lyman 1200 vibratory tumbler that I got on sale and its been fine, 100 308 sized cases isnt a problem with it. I got the solid lid for another 9 bucks from lyman directly to eliminate any dust coming through their default sifter lid. You dont need a super expensive tumbler. I would tumble the once fired brass unless you know it was cleaned before. You spent a bunch of money on some nice dies, dont feed them dirty brass and scratch up the finish on the die internals. I deprime and scrape the primer pockets but scraping the pockets can go either way, some do an some dont. I already have each piece of brass in my hands decapping, scraping isnt that much extra time to me.

For the new lapua it doesnt need to be cleaned. It could stand to have the necks run over a mandrel as the factory neck tension will be a bit varied and way excessive but I have been known to just load 100 for forming to my chamber and not really give a shit about it not being exactly perfect (actually load them straight out of the box just about every time actually LOL, the difference between knowing how to do it right and just good enough).

Also, I have the Whidden die set which is very similar to the Forster you linked. I believe it might even be a step up. Did I misunderstand which die set to get? The Whidden came HIGHLY recommended. As in it's a luxury when a lesser $ die set would do.
I dont have any whidden stuff myslef but I have heard good things and I have heard bad things just like I have with every die manufacturer. If you suspect you have problems call them up. I havent heard of them not responding to issues. It is very much a luxury but so is almost anything beyond the lee price point to some extent.

I think I need a bullet puller. Any recommendations? And which reloading manual? I'm definitely going w/ a Hornady due to being their wildcat and I'm using their bullets.
You have a coax so get the hornady puller. The hornady works on lifting a lever up and down, not by twisting closed like the rcbs does. The RCBS will just spin forever if you dont jamb something in the forster floating slot to stop it just spinning.

See my comments on this reply in red inside of your quotes.

Do you have a link to this insert? I'm not gonna skimp on a $17 part if it improves this setup. Thank you.

David Moore [email protected] you can email him or just buy it off his ebay listing. Or you can do the straw trick nexus talked about, a free way to test before buying the moore insert at the very least.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCBS-Chargemaster-Reducing-Insert-w-extra-Reducing-Sleeve/192446773427

How does one apply and or use Imperial lube? I just threw used cases in a ziplock sandwich back, hit it with a squirt or two of the spray and rotated them around by holding the outside of the bag. I've resized 20 cases and none of them hinted at sticking in the die. Is it the bullet setting I need to worry about w/ the lube?

You just rub your fingers in it and then just spin a case in between your fingers to rub a bit of wax on them. Doesnt take much, just a touch. Youll be getting your fingers messy with any lube/carbon deposits by any method, a bit of imperial wont make them any dirtier.

If youre doing the bag and spray then I assume you mean oneshot. I used that for a few cans before I started making my own and its still what I use it on occasion to lube a die after I clean it or something. I used to spray in a bag and it was good enough but I had one particular batch of brass that found that amount of lube inadequate so I have started standing them all up in a shoe box and giving a spritz or two straight into the necks before knocking them down and giving a few spritzes to the case exteriors and shuffling them around. If you notice that your expanding step gets real tough you might try getting the lube in the necks a bit more deliberately, if you dont notice the resistance issue then continue on as you were.

My only input is if you're right handed, you may prefer the press on the right side of the bench... I had mine on the left, as it's out of the way more... I found it easier to grab bullets with my left hand, put them in the neck, and work the press with my right hand.

I too have mine on the right hand side (though still more in the middle than an outer edge) as it goes with my work flow better and keeps me from reaching hands across my body each time. Youll figure out how to most efficiently use your particular space.



Get these linked pieces padom linked, the OAL gauges I htink or more of an option as there are other ways to skin that cat but the comparators are vital IMO.

Hornady Case Comparator to Measure case headspace and control shoulder bump when setting up your Sizing die
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-HK66...34295&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+case+comparator
Hornady Bullet Comparator Set to measure Base to Ogive when seating bullets. Dont ever measure COAL its inconsistent
(If you dont want to buy the entire set you can buy just the body and the .26 insert for .264 bullets if thats all your reloading)
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-B14-...34295&sr=8-2&keywords=hornady+case+comparator

 

[YukonRob]

My only thought would be that your current setup is great, if it is working for you!
If you have a concentricity problem, then maybe worry about which brand of dies is “best”... but I’d try to avoid fixing problems you don’t have.
Are you having success with your reloading efforts?
Do you need to improve a certain aspect of your process?

 

[supercorndogs]

I use to put them in a plastic bag. I found I use less one shot, by standing them all up in a tupperware. Then I spray from all sides ensuring I get the inside and outside of the necks. Having them all standing and touching ensures most of the lube ends up on the case, where I want it. There are multi step instructions on the can.

 

[straightshooter1]

Great tip for the rice. I have a 20lb bag in the garage I've had for 'just in case' that I will put to use. Any recommendations for a media tumbler?

This is the one I have and I like it:

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ar...&qid=1518042595&sr=8-8&keywords=media+tumbler

There is one thing that I wish it didn't do and that the edges of the necks get just a little bit beat up due to the cases making contact with the neck's rim. Some people feel it's the steel media that does that, but I found I get the same thing whether I use the steel media or not. You can use the steel media if you want to get your cases REALY shinny and clean, but that's not necessary and you don't get any of the benefit of the improved seating and lube affect that rice provides

On that note, do I necessarily need to clean my once fired brass? Just the primer pockets? And does my new Lapua brass need to be sized before I load it? I measured and it's right where my resized once fired brass is after resizing. I'm assuming I don't need to clean the new brass.

It's a good idea to always clean the brass to be sure to get rid if anything that's loose inside the case AND when using rise to get that little bit of coating inside the neck to get the good seating qualities.

I don't think primer pockets need to be cleaned all the time. But after a while of not cleaning them, the carbon build up is going to change the primer's seating depth and you really want consistent seating depth for consistent powder ignition.

On new brass, even Lapua, it's a good idea to size them before loading as that's a step that needs to be done before other steps of precision reloaded is done (e.g. trimming to the the same length).

For cleaning new brass, it's a good idea to give it a quick cleaning run through to be sure there's no material left in any of them from the manufacturing process. And, using rice, you're giving the the necks that coating that's helpful for consistent seating.

I think I need a bullet puller. Any recommendations? And which reloading manual? I'm definitely going w/ a Hornady due to being their wildcat and I'm using their bullets.

Since I very seldom need to pull a bullet, I simply chose a cheap plastic hammer type:

https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Bulle...498&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=bullet+puller&psc=1

If your only going to use their bullets, sounds like your good with their book.


A piece of software I've been using for some time now that really helps a lot in cutting down time and trips to the range for load development is called QuickLoad:

http://www.neconos.com/details3.htm

When I've found a load that works and I need to change the recipe a little or need to make a change due to some other factor (like temperature), I use the software to determine what adjustment I need to make in powder load.

 

[arm017]

Clean your brass with rice as it does a good job and act like a lubricant inside the neck, so there's no reason to ever put lube inside. Also, after cleaning with rice, it makes for smooth and consistent seating of the bullet. Note: if you use rice, don't use long grain rice as they are skinny enough to get into the flash hole and create additional work to get them out. You need white rice (that is short and fat).

One of the best things I did for reloading was when I switched to Forster seating and their neck bumping/sizing die. Yes, they're a little pricey, but the benefits you get in precision loading is worth it. Here:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...s/ultra-micrometer-seater-dies-prod59246.aspx

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...eedmoor-bushing-bump-neck-die-prod109571.aspx

Rice is lubricating your neck?

 

[arm017]

My only thought would be that your current setup is great, if it is working for you!
If you have a concentricity problem, then maybe worry about which brand of dies is “best”... but I’d try to avoid fixing problems you don’t have.
Are you having success with your reloading efforts?
Do you need to improve a certain aspect of your process?

Very applicable to our sport in general- not just the reloading bench

 

[supercorndogs]

This is the one I have and I like it:

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ar...&qid=1518042595&sr=8-8&keywords=media+tumbler

There is one thing that I wish it didn't do and that the edges of the necks get just a little bit beat up due to the cases making contact with the neck's rim. Some people feel it's the steel media that does that, but I found I get the same thing whether I use the steel media or not. You can use the steel media if you want to get your cases REALY shinny and clean, but that's not necessary and you don't get any of the benefit of the improved seating and lube affect that rice provides




It's a good idea to always clean the brass to be sure to get rid if anything that's loose inside the case AND when using rise to get that little bit of coating inside the neck to get the good seating qualities.

I don't think primer pockets need to be cleaned all the time. But after a while of not cleaning them, the carbon build up is going to change the primer's seating depth and you really want consistent seating depth for consistent powder ignition.

On new brass, even Lapua, it's a good idea to size them before loading as that's a step that needs to be done before other steps of precision reloaded is done (e.g. trimming to the the same length).

For cleaning new brass, it's a good idea to give it a quick cleaning run through to be sure there's no material left in any of them from the manufacturing process. And, using rice, you're giving the the necks that coating that's helpful for consistent seating.



Since I very seldom need to pull a bullet, I simply chose a cheap plastic hammer type:

https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Bulle...498&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=bullet+puller&psc=1

If your only going to use their bullets, sounds like your good with their book.


A piece of software I've been using for some time now that really helps a lot in cutting down time and trips to the range for load development is called QuickLoad:

http://www.neconos.com/details3.htm

When I've found a load that works and I need to change the recipe a little or need to make a change due to some other factor (like temperature), I use the software to determine what adjustment I need to make in powder load.

I have run cases for days in a vibratory tumbler with corn media and never seen peened necks like with steel medium.

 

[arm017]

I have run cases for days in a vibratory tumbler with corn media and never seen peened necks like with steel medium.

Agree - I have found that if I throw some brass in a SS tumbler after they have been trimmed/C/D - I will also lose a few thou of length.

 

[spife7980]

Rice is lubricating your neck?

I saw that too, Im guessing he just misconstrued vibratory tumbling not striping carbon out as lubing the brass itself.

 

[arm017]

I saw that too, Im guessing he just misconstrued vibratory tumbling not striping carbon out as lubing the brass itself.

Yeah I figured the same. That or rice and gravy in his tumbler.

 

[supercorndogs]

I saw that too, Im guessing he just misconstrued vibratory tumbling not striping carbon out as lubing the brass itself.

Not just that, but the grains of rice are so big, they are going to get dirty and need replaced much sooner than fine ground corn or walnut medium, and the last bag of rice I bought was more expensive than corn media.

 

[arm017]

Not just that, but the grains of rice are so big, they are going to get dirty and need replaced much sooner than fine ground corn or walnut medium, and the last bag of rice I bought was more expensive than corn media.

Yeah agree - maybe it's just the fact that I am more aware of how dirty the rice media is since it starts out so white, but I have tried it a few time over the years and always get pissed at myself for buying more rice- since you got to get the special kind and still looking at about 5 bucks worth of rice for maybe 10 batches of brass.

 

[supercorndogs]

Yeah agree - maybe it's just the fact that I am more aware of how dirty the rice media is since it starts out so white, but I have tried it a few time over the years and always get pissed at myself for buying more rice- since you got to get the special kind and still looking at about 5 bucks worth of rice for maybe 10 batches of brass.

Yea, I got a container of the Lyman corn media. The grains were much smaller than rice, but much bigger than what I was used to. It pissed me off when it clogger up so fast. I tumbled brass for two days, then realized the gunk was just being spread around. I think its the Frankfort arsenal corn media I use, but the smaller the particle, the more surface area, the longer it will last.

 

[spife7980]

My rice does get dirty and caked in black residue but I havent noticed it doing so any quicker than how long it took the cob media to turn black. And even when the rice is 90% coated my brass still came out just as clean as when the rice was new. Maybe I need to pay better attention or get some new cob and see side by side myself but I will say I like how much less dust there is with rice compared to cob and that I dont have to clear 50% of the primer pockets, rice has me down to maybe only 5% being blocked.

 

[arm017]

I've been happy with this guy. Very fine particles- Never any clogged flash holes. Lasts forever; and minimal dust w/ a bit of mineral spirits/ nufinish polish and a dryer sheet.

 

[supercorndogs]

My rice does get dirty and caked in black residue but I havent noticed it doing so any quicker than how long it took the cob media to turn black. And even when the rice is 90% coated my brass still came out just as clean as when the rice was new. Maybe I need to pay better attention or get some new cob and see side by side myself but I will say I like how much less dust there is with rice compared to cob and that I dont have to clear 50% of the primer pockets, rice has me down to maybe only 5% being blocked.

Sounds like your corn cob media is too big. Find something with a finer grind. I am not talking about color change, I am talking about the point the media becomes so caked it no longer cleans the brass. I don't get more than 5% flash hole blockage with the corn media I use. I did with the Lyman media though. It had about twice the surface area of rice. Obviously the media used for tumbling is not pivotal in making good ammo. Each one has its advantages and draw backs. I like a fine ground media because it lasts for a very long time. I like to use what is cheapest in non important functions.

 

[spife7980]

Sounds like your corn cob media is too big. Find something with a finer grind. I am not talking about color change, I am talking about the point the media becomes so caked it no longer cleans the brass. I don't get more than 5% flash hole blockage with the corn media I use. I did with the Lyman media though. It had about twice the surface area of rice. Obviously the media used for tumbling is not pivotal in making good ammo. Each one has its advantages and draw backs. I like a fine ground media because it lasts for a very long time. I like to use what is cheapest in non important functions.

Thats exactly what it was, the lyman jug green cob.
Ill try and locate some finer cob when I run out of rice but that might be a year or more. Wish I hadnt dumped it into the old range brass storage carbon dusted container other wise I could eat my way through it much faster

 

[308pirate]

I've tried rice (med grain) and still had far too many cases with grains stuck either in the flash hole (not many) or with 1-2 grains jammed in the primer pocket (many).

I do like how rice cleans brass, even when the grains themselves are black but picking rice out of the primer pockets became a giant pain in the ass so I went back to Hornady corn cob media. It's ground fine enough that I never get any stuck in the flash hole after spinning the brass in the media separator.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I've had 3 Whidden sets, a 6.5cm and 2 6.5x47L.. They were junk. I own and have owned them all, Forster, Redding, Whidden, Hornady, etc. I only use Forster and Redding for Micrometer pistol dies since Forster doesnt sell them. I was getting terrible runout in the .007-.01 range. Sent it back and they sent me a replacement. Did that 2 times with the 6.5x47L dies... Runout checked at all stages with a 21st Century Concentricity Gauge.

Forster gives the least amount of runout of any dies I have tested. Their FL sizing die set to bump the shoulder .0015-.002 for a bolt gun and their Ultra Micrometer seater will give you extremely straight ammo.

There are various threads on the Hide of people also have issues with Whidden dies. Forster is the one that invented the sliding sleeve seating die by which all others have copied.


As others have suggested, ditch the One Shot and grab a can of Imperial Sizing Wax. One can will last you probably a lifetime depending how much you reload. All reloaders should have the following tools

Hornady Case Comparator to Measure case headspace and control shoulder bump when setting up your Sizing die

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-HK66...34295&sr=8-1&keywords=hornady+case+comparator


Hornady Bullet Comparator Set to measure Base to Ogive when seating bullets. Dont ever measure COAL its inconsistent
(If you dont want to buy the entire set you can buy just the body and the .26 insert for .264 bullets if thats all your reloading)

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-B14-...34295&sr=8-2&keywords=hornady+case+comparator

Hornady Overall Length Gauge and MOdified Case - To Find the distance to your lands in your rifle so you know the overall length to start your reloading at. Generall .01-.02 off the lands is where you should do load development to find your node.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012747079/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-bolt-action


You need one of these modified cases for every caliber your reloading for. This is the 6.5cm modified case you need
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-A65C...&sr=1-7&keywords=hornady+overall+length+gauge

I've ordered most of these items. Do I need a neck trimmer? And other tools I may need? I thought I was mostly there but then I look some more and there's a lot of choices. I really appreciate your experience and input. Thanks.

 

[padom]

Neck trimmer? You mean case trimmer? If so, yes. If you mean a neck turning set up then no. The only time I turn necks is when converting brass say 308 to 6.5cm..

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Neck trimmer? You mean case trimmer? If so, yes. If you mean a neck turning set up then no. The only time I turn necks is when converting brass say 308 to 6.5cm..

Yes, I mean case trimmer.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Which one? There's a lot to choose from.

 

[Dave62677]

how much you willing to spend?

i had Trim it 2 trimmer, very consistent

 

[padom]

Which one...haha...the million dollar question!

If you are reloading bolt gun brass that only gets trimmed every 4-6 firings a Wilson trimmer like this one is great. I use it for my Lapua bolt gun brass.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/2...ase-trimmer-stainless-steel-case-trimming-kit

If your trimming semi auto brass every firing you may want something the Worlds Finest Trimmer or Giraud TriWay that get chucked up in a cordless drill. Giraud does not make the TriWay in 6.5cm...WFT does. The TriWay trims, chamfers and deburs. The WFT only trims...


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...lds-finest-trimmer-6mm-creedmoor-65-creedmoor


http://www.giraudtool.com/Tri Way Trimmer.htm


If you plan to reloading multiple calibers often like 5.56, 308, 6.5cm, 300blk then it's cheaper to just buy the Giraud Power trimmer. While it seems expensive, 4 Giraud TriWay trimmers cost the same pretty much....

http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm


I've owned them all and sold everything off except the Wilson manual trimmer. Only because I have a Dillon XL650 with their RT1500 case trimmers. I deprime, size and Trim 1000's of pieces of brass in little time with the stroke of the handle. Once I switched over to the Dillon RT1500 I couldn't imagine bulk trimming any other way.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

how much you willing to spend?

i had Trim it 2 trimmer, very consistent

I'm in so deep now, I don't want to spare any expense.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

So, the Wilson? I'm only reloading for accuracy. If my needs change, I'll change. But today, accuracy.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Which one...haha...the million dollar question!

If you are reloading bolt gun brass that only gets trimmed every 4-6 firings a Wilson trimmer like this one is great. I use it for my Lapua bolt gun brass.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/2...ase-trimmer-stainless-steel-case-trimming-kit

If your trimming semi auto brass every firing you may want something the Worlds Finest Trimmer or Giraud TriWay that get chucked up in a cordless drill. Giraud does not make the TriWay in 6.5cm...WFT does. The TriWay trims, chamfers and deburs. The WFT only trims...


https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...lds-finest-trimmer-6mm-creedmoor-65-creedmoor


http://www.giraudtool.com/Tri Way Trimmer.htm


If you plan to reloading multiple calibers often like 5.56, 308, 6.5cm, 300blk then it's cheaper to just buy the Giraud Power trimmer. While it seems expensive, 4 Giraud TriWay trimmers cost the same pretty much....

http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm


I've owned them all and sold everything off except the Wilson manual trimmer. Only because I have a Dillon XL650 with their RT1500 case trimmers. I deprime, size and Trim 1000's of pieces of brass in little time with the stroke of the handle. Once I switched over to the Dillon RT1500 I couldn't imagine bulk trimming any other way.

There's some options among the Wilson. Can you suggest any of these over the others?

Micrometer on special platform:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-013-151

Micrometer on shark fin:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-101-020

Same as the one you linked only more $?:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-101-021

 

[padom]

Different stand and little different micrometer. Pick what you want

 

[straightshooter1]

There's some options among the Wilson. Can you suggest any of these over the others?

Micrometer on special platform:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-013-151

Micrometer on shark fin:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-101-020

Same as the one you linked only more $?:

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...y&utm_campaign=itwine&utm_content=749-101-021

+1 On the Wilson micrometer. It really produces accurate and consistent case lengths. I got one to replace what I had and have loved it from the beginning.

 

[TheGerman]

Dunno, fully naked hot chick posters have been shown to improve your concentricity.

Your gear looks great for starting up. I like Imperial lube better than spray. If you need instructional stuff, as above get reloading manuals and maybe a book like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1571573712/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_68?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Or a Glenn Zediker book, etc. You can find plenty of how-to right here if you dig deep.

I have a rule that if my wife wants to bother me in my reloading room, she needs to show up topless.

Its a win/win. Either she leaves me the fuck alone, or I see asian titties.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Thought I'd update some pics of the reloading room.

Insulated the garage and added slat wall (have a shit ton of slat wall trays, etc.). Still in the process of organizing the entire garage. All the tool boxes on the table were full of tools. Was able to organize them into the larger tool boxes/tables. Added some more LED lights.

To help with perspective.

 

[MarinePMI]

With the Co-Ax press, just get in the habit of seating the case in the shell holder, and raising it slightly before placing a bullet on top of the case for seating. By raising the case, the jaws lock the case in place and prevent you from accidentally knocking the case over as you put the bullet over the case mouth.