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Need a better muzzle brake

wvfarrier

Ignorant wretch
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 7, 2012
2,725
5,023
West (By GOD) Virginia
I have a couple different 300 PRC rifles, big fan of the cartridge. However, ever since I had my shoulder repaired the recoil is kicking my ass. I m currently using a PVA Jetblast but it just is not doing enough. I regularly shoot hot 308s and even hot 45-70 with no issues but the 300 is starting to cause a flinch. Its a Zermatt action with a 26" bull barrel in a MDT chassis so it is quite hefty. What brakes would you guys recommend? I was looking at the different "tank" style brakes but dunno if they are worth it.
 
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...currently using a PVA Jetblast but it just is not doing enough...
Augment with squishier recoil pad:
Direct replacement for MDT in the drop-downs.
 
I have a couple different 300 PRC rifles, big fan of the cartridge. However, ever since I had my shoulder repaired the recoil is kicking my ass. I m currently using a PVA Jetblast but it just is not doing enough. I regularly shoot hot 308s and even hot 45-70 with no issues but the 300 is starting to cause a flinch. Its a Zermatt action with a 26" bull barrel in a MDT chassis so it is quite hefty. What brakes would you guys recommend? I was looking at the different "tank" style brakes but dunno if they are worth it.
Get a Cadex MX1. People talk highly of the heathen brake, which I also have, but I feel like the cadex is better at mitigating recoil.
 
I use the Precision Armament M4-72 on my 300 RUM shooting 250 ATips at 2985 fps from 26" barrel. I like it because its short and does a good job...but this video shows there may be other choices that work better.
 
Augment with squishier recoil pad:
Direct replacement for MDT in the drop-downs.

I'm a MDT owner and I would have to agree 100% to change the recoil pad before you make any other changes.

It's probably about $40 for a new pad.
 
Not 100% TBAC related, but don't most actual test with equipment and data show suppressors do not match brakes for recoil reduction and that suppressors with brakes have to low of velocity to be of significant use to do much for recoil reduction?
This is a actual question after having read about brakes vs suppressors and looked at the limited data combined with the general reduction of the number of suppressors being used by top PRS shooters.
Real question.

ETA - Fat B* gen 2 is very pleasant to shoot on 300wm with 215s at mach Jebus. Just not pleasant for people around you....
 
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… don't most actual test with equipment and data show suppressors do not match brakes for recoil reduction …
Yes. The sound reduction has a psychological effect of perceived recoil reduction, because less harsh sound is associated with less harsh recoil. Silencers do help recoil reduction purely because they are additional mass. Mass is a good method of recoil reduction, but a silencer’s mass is generally not as significant as the recoil reduction from a good brake.
 
None of y'all like the Terminator brakes?
I have them on several full profile barrels, 300winmag, 300 Norma, 7PRC & a 6.5PRC on the way. I usually wear plugs under electronic muffs but the Terminator is actually comfortable with only plugs.

I do run sound forwarders on "standard" cartridges as it is much more pleasant for everyone and recoil reduction is enough.
 
Here are some objective data using a 300 PRC rifle:


The Apollo Max had the most significant reduction, of those tested.

Also, these weren’t tested and look a bit silly, but I’m sure they work real well.


The JP Recoil Eliminator is fugly- but I gotta say, I've not used a more effective brake. The huge blast baffles are the key to its effectiveness. The PA M4-72 is also a favorite, marketed as a compensator but I find it very effective at reducing felt recoil.

The recoil pad on my MDT sucks dick. Hard plastic covered by a thin piece of rubber- that ain't helping.

Thought about one of these- no affiliation- curious if anyone has experience with it?

 
The JP Recoil Eliminator is fugly- but I gotta say, I've not used a more effective brake. The huge blast baffles are the key to its effectiveness. The PA M4-72 is also a favorite, marketed as a compensator but I find it very effective at reducing felt recoil.

The recoil pad on my MDT sucks dick. Hard plastic covered by a thin piece of rubber- that ain't helping.

Thought about one of these- no affiliation- curious if anyone has experience with it?


Just price compare one of these deliverered to you as well. The backfire ones are "to spec" but if the cost is significantly different you may find better use for the money elsewhere. I have fitted these to all my MDT chassis and the Oryx 308 I set up for a friend, massive improvement in comfort and recoil control.

MDT-LS-ADAPT1-scaled.jpg


 
The JP Recoil Eliminator is fugly- but I gotta say, I've not used a more effective brake. The huge blast baffles are the key to its effectiveness. The PA M4-72 is also a favorite, marketed as a compensator but I find it very effective at reducing felt recoil.

The recoil pad on my MDT sucks dick. Hard plastic covered by a thin piece of rubber- that ain't helping.

Thought about one of these- no affiliation- curious if anyone has experience with it?


I knew a guy with one of those on a 300 Win Mag and he said it was unbelievable how much recoil it removed. Pretty sure there used to be videos with a JP equipped magnum rifle and the shooter would hold it up against his nose and shoot it to show almost zero movement.
 
The JP Recoil Eliminator is fugly- but I gotta say, I've not used a more effective brake. The huge blast baffles are the key to its effectiveness. The PA M4-72 is also a favorite, marketed as a compensator but I find it very effective at reducing felt recoil.

The recoil pad on my MDT sucks dick. Hard plastic covered by a thin piece of rubber- that ain't helping.

Thought about one of these- no affiliation- curious if anyone has experience with it?


instead of supporting a cuck try this instead

 
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The best muzzle brake you can buy... And people around you won't hate you...

Let em hate me, hopefully they leave, and then I can sprawl out to two tables. I always bring too many rifles and I almost always use hellfire matches just because I'm bought into the mounting system. It's easy, and I can be lazy.

Plus, i'm usually doing some sort of load dev, which means I want whatever i'm running for the match on my rifle.
 
I was not a huge fan of muzzle brakes. Getting older has changed my POV a little. I have only tried one, but it really does the trick. It's the SPT Hudu. I like that it has holes on the top. I believe it directs some of the gas upwards, which keeps it from jumping as much.
 
I have a couple different 300 PRC rifles, big fan of the cartridge. However, ever since I had my shoulder repaired the recoil is kicking my ass. I m currently using a PVA Jetblast but it just is not doing enough. I regularly shoot hot 308s and even hot 45-70 with no issues but the 300 is starting to cause a flinch. Its a Zermatt action with a 26" bull barrel in a MDT chassis so it is quite hefty. What brakes would you guys recommend? I was looking at the different "tank" style brakes but dunno if they are worth it.
The PVA Jetblast was designed for smaller cartridges, you should be using our Shockwave brake for the PRC. It alson won't turn your sinuses into jello.
 
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The PVA Jetblast was designed for smaller cartridges, you should be using our Shockwave brake for the PRC. It alson won't turn your sinuses into jello.

Thank you. Tacops is sending my one of his to try out and evaluate with the PRC.
 
I like short, light, muzzle brakes. Sometimes build my own. Like this one ounce titanium brake, built free out of a scrap piece of Ti, for a 6 lb AR 10 308 build.
20230902_191511.jpg
 
One way is to add weight to the gun (23+ lbs) and shoot free recoil. You won't feel anything.
Probably depends on the caliber...won't be doing that with full power 50 BMG that weighs 30 lbs with 750 Amax or 800 gr Barnes. Infact subs recoil quite a bit with 750 grains, and one can jump up to 1002 gr lathe turned with a fast twist barrel, and feel even more recoil....I would not recommend the free recoil method here.
 
I like short, light, muzzle brakes. Sometimes build my own. Like this one ounce titanium brake, built free out of a scrap piece of Ti, for a 6 lb AR 10 308 build. View attachment 8517289
Crazy as it sounds, that's still heavier than our self-timing 3 port "Back Country" ultralight and only 0.3oz lighter than the UL Jetblast.
 
Probably depends on the caliber...won't be doing that with full power 50 BMG that weighs 30 lbs with 750 Amax or 800 gr Barnes. Infact subs recoil quite a bit with 750 grains, and one can jump up to 1002 gr lathe turned with a fast twist barrel, and feel even more recoil....I would not recommend the free recoil method here.
:ROFLMAO: absolutely! my suggestion is only for OP's 300 PRC.
 
Crazy as it sounds, that's still heavier than our self-timing 3 port "Back Country" ultralight and only 0.3oz lighter than the UL Jetblast.
Show me!...
That ain't what I saw, your brakes were 3.7 and 3.8 oz. Stated weight.
You have a .7 oz steel muzzle brake a mere 300 grs? If so is it Effective? And where can it be found.

Mine was 1 oz total weight, attached to the barrel, and free not $125 or $144. Plus I could make it lighter, but it works great at 1 oz.
 
Show me!...
That ain't what I saw, your brakes were 3.7 and 3.8 oz. Stated weight.
You have a .7 oz steel muzzle brake a mere 300 grs? If so is it Effective? And where can it be found.

Mine was 1 oz total weight, attached to the barrel, and free not $125 or $144. Plus I could make it lighter, but it works great at 1 oz.
Ahhh, but I never said it was steel nor did I say it was 0.7oz. You assumed the material and didn't get the arithmetic correct.

Here's the full size Jetblast in ultralight form, that one weighs 39 grams, which your brake is 0.3oz different. It's the same geometry as the regular Jetblast.


The ultralight Back Country is 0.9oz, here's a photo of a processing blem sitting on the shipping scale.

Yours wasn't free, you had to spend time and effort doing that. Count your time up and whatever supplies you used in your shop to make it. As far as performance goes, the Jetblast recoil reduction is well documented by several outside sources to far exceed 50% reduction in recoil.
 

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Ahhh, but I never said it was steel nor did I say it was 0.7oz. You assumed the material and didn't get the arithmetic correct.

Here's the full size Jetblast in ultralight form, that one weighs 39 grams, which your brake is 0.3oz different. It's the same geometry as the regular Jetblast.


The ultralight Back Country is 0.9oz, here's a photo of a processing blem sitting on the shipping scale.

Yours wasn't free, you had to spend time and effort doing that. Count your time up and whatever supplies you used in your shop to make it. As far as performance goes, the Jetblast recoil reduction is well documented by several outside sources to far exceed 50% reduction in recoil.
Just as I thought...it's aluminum.
I do not consider Aluminum a viable material for muzzle brakes, and would never purchase one, made of aluminum for my use.
I use stainless steel or titanium, on my rifles.

I would consider one of your "heavier" stainless steel brakes, depending on caliber, shorten it up a bit, depending on need, or go with titanium, for ultra light builds.

I buy some brakes, modify some brakes, but also make my own to suit, out of left over pieces of metal, stainless or titanium.
It does take a bit of time, but I'm doing it for myself, so for me that doesn't count, and I get what I desire, especially on specialty builds.
 
Just as I thought...it's aluminum.
I do not consider Aluminum a viable material for muzzle brakes, and would never purchase one, made of aluminum for my use.
I use stainless steel or titanium, on my rifles.

I would consider one of your "heavier" stainless steel brakes, depending on caliber, shorten it up a bit, depending on need, or go with titanium, for ultra light builds.

I buy some brakes, modify some brakes, but also make my own to suit, out of left over pieces of metal, stainless or titanium.
It does take a bit of time, but I'm doing it for myself, so for me that doesn't count, and I get what I desire, especially on specialty builds.
You may not consider it viable but this particular aluminum is stronger and harder than mild steel, which is why we use it. Incidentally it's also stronger than Ti6Al4v Type 2 and about half the weight. Once anodized now the surface and the core are harder and stronger than the steel most companies make brakes from.

There are many thousand examples of these brakes on the market for over 5 years now. If it didn't work, we wouldn't be able to sell them nor would I even try. I'll stand by the statement that I've made for just as long as we've offered these brakes:

The PVA Ultralight series is the lightest, highest performing ultralight brake series in their respective market segments. Size to size and weight to weight; we win on weight to performance, cost to performance and size to performance time and time again.

You seem to have some pretty strong opinions of a product line that you have no experience with. If you don't want to count your time, cost and effort that's your prerogative. However, comparing that to my actual business is far from applicable. If you don't want to use aluminum it's simple: don't buy it. Plenty of people have and they're quite happy with them.
 
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And PVA brakes work. Also quiter than my Fat B*.
45-90- yours looks like it has single side pirts and a single top port. Is that correct? I have played around with building muzzle brakes with 5 axis cnc milling and never got results I like in either recoil reduction or appearance.
 
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And PVA brakes work. Also quiter than my Fat B*.
45-90- yours looks like it has single side pirts and a single top port. Is that correct? I have played around with building muzzle brakes with 5 axis cnc milling and never got results I like in either recoil reduction or appearance.
One can put as many ports as you want, or as few, depending on the purpose of the brake and the intended recoil reduction.
Lighter calibers, or big magnums, shorter overall length for handy hunting tool, Or maximum recoil reduction, where length or weight does not matter.
That's why there is a variety of brakes on the market, it's not totally about maximum recoil reduction, sometimes other desired needs must be met first.
Variety is a good thing.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Function would seem more important on a tool, a rifle is an expendable tool, like most tools, it needs replacement parts from time to time to be at it's best performance.
I even run without a brake on purpose on some rifles, others may want a brake on every rifle.