ok so i need help on what to do next to my savage 12bvss, thinking i should paint or duracoat it flat black or OD green then a tactical bolt handle, a 20 MOA base and better rings, anything else i should do or have done? and what should i do first?
need help on what to do next to my rifle
- Thread starter kimberfan
- Start date
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kimberfan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok so i need help on what to do next to my savage 12bvss, thinking i should paint or duracoat it flat black or OD green then a tactical bolt handle, a 20 MOA base and better rings, anything else i should do or have done? <span style="text-decoration: underline">and what should i do first? </span>
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Not to be a dick, but buy some ammo and shoot it. She looks fine the way it is. Score some ammo, and rock and roll. Then look into changing things.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kimberfan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok so i need help on what to do next to my savage 12bvss, thinking i should paint or duracoat it flat black or OD green then a tactical bolt handle, a 20 MOA base and better rings, anything else i should do or have done? <span style="text-decoration: underline">and what should i do first? </span>
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Not to be a dick, but buy some ammo and shoot it. She looks fine the way it is. Score some ammo, and rock and roll. Then look into changing things.
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
Agree with statement above unless you have already been shooting it a lot and getting to know it. If you're wanting to stretch it's legs a 20 or 30moa mount and a good set of rings such as Seekins would be my next money spent.
Adding a goober to something is great if it makes it perfom better for the shooter, if it's added just because it's a nifty cool looking goober to look it more snipery for your buds then it's money wasted.
Topstrap
Agree with statement above unless you have already been shooting it a lot and getting to know it. If you're wanting to stretch it's legs a 20 or 30moa mount and a good set of rings such as Seekins would be my next money spent.
Adding a goober to something is great if it makes it perfom better for the shooter, if it's added just because it's a nifty cool looking goober to look it more snipery for your buds then it's money wasted.
Topstrap
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
I would do a bolt knob if you just want to keep modding it. You can do the base and rings too if you want but they won't have much of an effect unless you are already stretching its legs.
I would do a bolt knob if you just want to keep modding it. You can do the base and rings too if you want but they won't have much of an effect unless you are already stretching its legs.
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
Here is how I would do it:
Duracoat says you can "use the firearm" the next day. In reality, you want to wait about 3+ weeks to let it fully cure. I have a couple of dings on my finish from handling it after only 1 week after applying it. Given this constraint:
- Order the duracoat (whatever color you want, but if it was me I would go for the ultra flat "tactical" matte black). If I was you, I would only duracoat the handle section of the bolt.
- A week or two after you've duracoated the barreled action, carefully wrap your bolt and send it out for the knob replacement.
- While your bolt is out, order your base and rings.
- When the bolt returns, put everything together. You'll be GTG and you'll have YOUR rifle just as YOU want it.
Here's your cost:
- Duracoat shake n spray kit + prep materials and shipping: $50
- EGW 20 MOA Base: $40
- Scope rings (e.g., Burris XTR): $70
- Savage Bolt knob: $110
- Total: $270
As far as what the other members have posted so you know what you're giving up in terms of range time to make your rifle more "presentable":
A can of varget loads about 200 rounds and costs ~ $30. 200 bullets are ~ $60, or $90 total for 200 rounds (this should include the cost of primers too). So for the cost of doing these "cosmetic mods" to your rifle you could send 600 rounds downrange.
Do what makes YOU happy with YOUR rifle.
Here is how I would do it:
Duracoat says you can "use the firearm" the next day. In reality, you want to wait about 3+ weeks to let it fully cure. I have a couple of dings on my finish from handling it after only 1 week after applying it. Given this constraint:
- Order the duracoat (whatever color you want, but if it was me I would go for the ultra flat "tactical" matte black). If I was you, I would only duracoat the handle section of the bolt.
- A week or two after you've duracoated the barreled action, carefully wrap your bolt and send it out for the knob replacement.
- While your bolt is out, order your base and rings.
- When the bolt returns, put everything together. You'll be GTG and you'll have YOUR rifle just as YOU want it.
Here's your cost:
- Duracoat shake n spray kit + prep materials and shipping: $50
- EGW 20 MOA Base: $40
- Scope rings (e.g., Burris XTR): $70
- Savage Bolt knob: $110
- Total: $270
As far as what the other members have posted so you know what you're giving up in terms of range time to make your rifle more "presentable":
A can of varget loads about 200 rounds and costs ~ $30. 200 bullets are ~ $60, or $90 total for 200 rounds (this should include the cost of primers too). So for the cost of doing these "cosmetic mods" to your rifle you could send 600 rounds downrange.
Do what makes YOU happy with YOUR rifle.
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
20 MOA base if you plan on shooting out to 900-1000. Other then that, reload. I had a 10 fp that shot .5, and sometimes under, then I fucked with it. Well, a new barrel and stock later and it shoots the same, waisted money. A new stock isnt ever waisted money when you look at that ugly stock (which I had) but a new one will not shoot better, just look and feel better. Take it from me and all the money I blew just to get it back to where it was. Dont believe the bullshit about recoil lugs and bolt knobs, just shoot the damn thing! Plus, reloading is more fun and more accurate.
20 MOA base if you plan on shooting out to 900-1000. Other then that, reload. I had a 10 fp that shot .5, and sometimes under, then I fucked with it. Well, a new barrel and stock later and it shoots the same, waisted money. A new stock isnt ever waisted money when you look at that ugly stock (which I had) but a new one will not shoot better, just look and feel better. Take it from me and all the money I blew just to get it back to where it was. Dont believe the bullshit about recoil lugs and bolt knobs, just shoot the damn thing! Plus, reloading is more fun and more accurate.
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
If you just want 'the look' then ignore my post... but you don't NEED a +20 MOA base with that scope. It already has a lot of vertical/horizontal adjustment available (120 MOA worth). Using a 20 MOA base plus your choice of picatinny rings will only be adding unnecessary height to your scope and thus, elevating your head position which will effect your cheek weld. To me, form follows function. A proper cheek weld is a basic and extremely important principle in marksmanship, so I would not be keen on altering it without good reason. Doing it for looks, that's a dumb idea to me, but to each his own. However, if you NEED the extra elevation then go for it. You can always add a cheek raiser if you need to. But on the other hand adding a 20 MOA base, for practical reasons or not, will raise the objective of the scope farther away from the barrel due to the inherent height of picatinny rail systems.
20 MOA bases are useful when you have enough elevation adjustment in your scope. Since your particular scope happens to have quite a lot of it, my vote goes to leave the base/rings as-is. If anything I would have it Ceracoated just to get rid of the shininess. Or to save a lot of money, go with Krylon and put the money saved into ammo which translates to trigger time.
Food for thought...
If you just want 'the look' then ignore my post... but you don't NEED a +20 MOA base with that scope. It already has a lot of vertical/horizontal adjustment available (120 MOA worth). Using a 20 MOA base plus your choice of picatinny rings will only be adding unnecessary height to your scope and thus, elevating your head position which will effect your cheek weld. To me, form follows function. A proper cheek weld is a basic and extremely important principle in marksmanship, so I would not be keen on altering it without good reason. Doing it for looks, that's a dumb idea to me, but to each his own. However, if you NEED the extra elevation then go for it. You can always add a cheek raiser if you need to. But on the other hand adding a 20 MOA base, for practical reasons or not, will raise the objective of the scope farther away from the barrel due to the inherent height of picatinny rail systems.
20 MOA bases are useful when you have enough elevation adjustment in your scope. Since your particular scope happens to have quite a lot of it, my vote goes to leave the base/rings as-is. If anything I would have it Ceracoated just to get rid of the shininess. Or to save a lot of money, go with Krylon and put the money saved into ammo which translates to trigger time.
Food for thought...
Re: need help on what to do next to my rifle
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1.) Buy ammo
2.) Put ammo in rifle
3.) Shoot rifle
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trevor is always giving out the best advice
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1.) Buy ammo
2.) Put ammo in rifle
3.) Shoot rifle
</div></div>
trevor is always giving out the best advice
