Re: Need help with DIY project
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Junkman1967</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about posting a picture of what you are talking about and Ill see if I can help you out. </div></div>
Junkman,
This blank section of pic-rail needs to be drilled, and contoured for the specific action it is to be placed on. It is completely flat on the underside, and needs to become curved to accept the radius of the action.
Now this is where it gets a little bit odd.
A fellow member here had posted up pictures of his 40x which had a unique base on it. It allows the scope to be mounted/removed while still having the mount for match sights built in. I spoke to him about it via PM's and neither of us know who made the piece for there is a lack of identifying markings but due to tooling marks I have ASSumed that the previous owned probably made it himself. The current owner said this ASSumption would be a fair one to make. At any rate, it doesn't really matter. It would be perfect for what I want to do, but I have a different action. So I need to figure out a way to change the design slightly and adapt it for use with my own narrower receiver.
Here are pics of the base that inspired this question:
I hope you don't mind me posting these Jeff, if you see this and wish them removed just say the word.
I have been somewhat misleading so far though, as I wouldn't actually be shaping the base itself, but rather a piece of stock to go under and act as a wedge between the action and the base. It appears that the base pictured above is a single piece; however I don't have the tools to replicate that. So, I figured a good piece of steel sheet metal filed down to fit under the blank pic-rail pictured at the top of this post with the same type of mount sticking out of the side would be a fun project for me. I have a much simpler way of mounting the sight on the existing base already formulated, but I wanted to know just how difficult this would be as I know it would look much better and be stronger than the other method I have planned. I hope this all makes sense and I apologize for the shortness of my OP. I was very tired last night and didn't have the energy to be this detailed
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Patience of a saint. What your wanting will require it.
Try this maybe:
Get some wet/dry emery in 80~100 grit.
Wrap it tight around your receiver.
Make a jig/fixture that'll align the rail parallel and start stroking.
You'll get more chicks too cause by the time your done you'll have arms like popeye.
Have fun!
C.</div></div>
Chad,
Thanks for this! The receiver is simple in design and looks to be a round piece of pipe in crude terms. I'll measure it to make sure, but if it is in fact perfectly round as I think it is, would a dowel or even a curved piece of sheet metal (I can do that in-shop too if need be) suffice in place of the action? I cannot bring the rifle itself into the shop. So if this is the way I decide to go, I'll need a substitute for the receiver.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Outsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much material are you looking to remove?
Why not get some sacrificial screws the same size as the receiver holes and cut the heads off simply to make some alignment rods. lube em up good and build a dam around the area with some modeling clay, lube the receiver and lay down some JB and then set the rail into the JB with the screws in the receiver thru the rail.
I know its not the best way, and I am sure looked at like the bubba way, by actual smiths but hell it would work. </div></div>
Outsy,
I believe that the receiver is 1" in diameter, so a fair bit of material on that. Then on the blank pic-rail there is a good amount of unneeded material too, but that doesn't exactly need anything special. I just need to keep it flat to mount to the "lower-rail" if that makes any sense.
I thought about using JB Weld but I don't think it would turn out all that well. I may be completely wrong in that statement, so I may end up giving it a trial run anyways on some scrap metal. I do think that regardless of the amount of work involved, that I would rather have shaped the metal to fit at least close and then finish off with bedding compound for a perfect fit over creating the curve with JB and calling it good. Like I said, I'll probably give it a shot anyways sometime
-Dylan