New bling from KRG

Hi all, I’ve just received my sako green bravo and fitted it to my new tikka Ctr. As others have found the bolt cannot be removed from the rifle with the cheekpiece in situ and when cycling the bolt it hits the cheekpiece.

Pretty disappointing but apart from that it looks a good little chassis for the price.

I see KRG are aware of the issue and hopefully will produce an updated cheekpiece for the tikkas. Will those of us who purchased our bravos he able to get the new cheekpieces when available?

A recess with a curving and longer (finger tip shaped) recess should cure the issue.

It looks like I need to cut into it about 4mm, this would result in a hole as the plastic looks pretty thin. How have other tikka owners done it?
 

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Hi all, I’ve just received my sako green bravo and fitted it to my new tikka Ctr. As others have found the bolt cannot be removed from the rifle with the cheekpiece in situ and when cycling the bolt it hits the cheekpiece.

Pretty disappointing but apart from that it looks a good little chassis for the price.

I see KRG are aware of the issue and hopefully will produce an updated cheekpiece for the tikkas. Will those of us who purchased our bravos he able to get the new cheekpieces when available?

A recess with a curving and longer (finger tip shaped) recess should cure the issue.

It looks like I need to cut into it about 4mm, this would result in a hole as the plastic looks pretty thin. How have other tikka owners done it?

Go back one page. There is already someone who cut out a notch to do exactly what you are saying.
 
Hi all, I’ve just received my sako green bravo and fitted it to my new tikka Ctr. As others have found the bolt cannot be removed from the rifle with the cheekpiece in situ and when cycling the bolt it hits the cheekpiece.

Pretty disappointing but apart from that it looks a good little chassis for the price.

I see KRG are aware of the issue and hopefully will produce an updated cheekpiece for the tikkas. Will those of us who purchased our bravos he able to get the new cheekpieces when available?

A recess with a curving and longer (finger tip shaped) recess should cure the issue.

It looks like I need to cut into it about 4mm, this would result in a hole as the plastic looks pretty thin. How have other tikka owners done it?

There are some pictures on the previous page with some really clean cuts to the cheekpiece to allow it to cycle with it raised higher in elevation.

if you want to keep from having to figure out where to readjust the cheek piece to when you have to move it for bolt removal try some plastic spacers on the 2 posts cut to the correct length so you can just remove the cheek piece to remove the bolt and clean then throw it back on and the spacer will put it in the right spot everytime.
 
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I will be using the cheekpiece at the bottom so hopefully that means I have to take a smaller notch out of it, an inch higher would need a larger notch

i also screwed up, thought you were crazy about the bolt not coming out with the cheek piece all the way down...sure enough i went and pulled the rifle out of the safe and the cheekpiece needs to be off to remove the bolt, learn something new everyday! I thought i had pulled the bolt out with the cheek piece in!
 
Ok- update.

I’ve been emailing krg and they suggested that my new Ctr may have the long action bolt stop in it. I happened to have some spare tikka bolt stops so I checked and low and behold it did have a LA stop.

I swopped it for a short action stop and this fixed the safety indicator hitting the cheekrest issue.

I still can’t get the bolt out with the cheekpiece in situ but since I currently have the cheekrest fully down I won’t have an issue cycling the bolt.
 

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Ok- update.

I’ve been emailing krg and they suggested that my new Ctr may have the long action bolt stop in it. I happened to have some spare tikka bolt stops so I checked and low and behold it did have a LA stop.

I swopped it for a short action stop and this fixed the safety indicator hitting the cheekrest issue.

I still can’t get the bolt out with the cheekpiece in situ but since I currently have the cheekrest fully down I won’t have an issue cycling the bolt.

This is encouraging to see; mine is a Varmint model I bought back in 2007, not a CTR, so it has the actual short action bolt stop.

I read in another thread here-perhaps the Tikka T3 thread-that there is a short action stop, a long action stop, and a CTR stop that is not quite as long as the LA stop. Can your CTR still strip rounds with the SA stop?
 
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This is encouraging to see; mine is a Varmint model I bought back in 2007, not a CTR, so it has the actual short action bolt stop.

I read in another thread here-perhaps the Tikka T3 thread-that there is a short action stop, a long action stop, and a CTR stop that is not quite as long as the LA stop. Can your CTR still strip rounds with the SA stop?
Yes, sorry about the delay. It works well with the sa stop, I initially wondered if it was a bit close to the round but it works great.

I wondered if it was a little close to the mag but no issues so far.
 

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Yes, sorry about the delay. It works well with the sa stop, I initially wondered if it was a bit close to the round but it works great.

I wondered if it was a little close to the mag but no issues so far.


Huh, I wonder if this may be the solution then for the dudes whose CTR cocking indicators are hitting the cheek riser. The Bravo isn't compatible with LA Tikkas anyway
 
The CTR stop is between a short and long action. It's needed for use with the factory CTR stock and magazines. If you drop a short action stop into a factory CTR rifle, the bolt will not travel far enough to the rear to feed.

Short action on top, CTR on bottom.

 
The CTR stop is between a short and long action. It's needed for use with the factory CTR stock and magazines. If you drop a short action stop into a factory CTR rifle, the bolt will not travel far enough to the rear to feed.

Short action on top, CTR on bottom.

Not in my Ctr, mine had a long action one in it for some reason.
 

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The Google machine brought me to this thread, and I'm glad it did. I've got a cart full of KRG gear ready to head my way, but I wanted to get some clarity from those of you who have taken the Tikka CTR and dropped it into the Bravo.

1) Are you using the AI-3901 (5 round) and/or AI-3902 AICS mags? Any feeding issues to report? I'll be running a 6.5 Creed (CTR) and a 243 (T3).

2) With the Bravo cheek rest fully flat - assuming my CTR has the appropriately sized bolt stop - are you able to run the bolt and cycle rounds? It appears the cocking indicator is coming in contact with the cheek rest when A) The cheek is raised and B) If Tikka placed a LA bolt stop in your SA Tikka.

3) Any other considerations before ordering the KRG Bravo for my Tikka's?

Thank you KRG. This is the stock I've been hoping to find. You built it AND priced it right. I trust when a fully Tikka compatible cheek rest is available that you'll take care of those of us who ordered early. Thumbs up on the Bravo.
 
I should add, i talked to my gunsmith and he doesnt think the magwell will take more then an hour to mill out for CTR magazines. That means $60 for the TRG mag catch and $75 for chassis work so ~$135 to get the CTR magazines to work. If he wasn't booked out 1-2months i would get it done right now but i will wait till he slows down to get the work done.

Sorry if I missed it but where can you get hold of a TRG mag catch? And how does it fit on? I’m going to try this if I get it lined out with my smith. By the way, Justin, if you guys offered a pre-milled version that would accept CTR DBM and TRG mags you might be able to sell quite a few and not have to provide the DBM...pass on the savings...
 
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Thank you for the kind words! I'll let others answer some of that from their experience but I'll throw a few things out there:

-With the cheekpiece down you shouldn't have any issues with the T3 bolt cycling, even if you have a long action mag stop and it does hit the cheekpiece it will still have travelled far enough to pick up a round.

-We do have an alternate cheekpiece coming but it will be a few months. It should clear even a long action bolt throw at all heights.



-We do have the TRG mag catches available and we also will consider a T3 version cut for the TRG/CTR mags as a standard offering but we want to see what the demand is first.

-We are proceeding with the Enclosed Forend (wraparound like an AR style) for the T3 inlets (will fit Bravo, X-ray, and W-3). Estimate 6 weeks on availability.

Thank you guys for your business and interest and for your patience during this super busy time!
Justin



The Google machine brought me to this thread, and I'm glad it did. I've got a cart full of KRG gear ready to head my way, but I wanted to get some clarity from those of you who have taken the Tikka CTR and dropped it into the Bravo.



Thank you KRG. This is the stock I've been hoping to find. You built it AND priced it right. I trust when a fully Tikka compatible cheek rest is available that you'll take care of those of us who ordered early. Thumbs up on the Bravo.
 
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I pulled the trigger and ordered a Tikka Bravo chassis, let's see when it arrives how the cheekriser interfere with the bolt shroud. In almost every stock I have I need to rise the cheek piece but in my KRG X-RAY. I'm glad you are going to produce the enclosed forend for the Tikka. For sure I will be getting one or two.
 
Is a CTR mag the same as a TRG mag?

It seems most guys buying Tikkas now are getting the CTRs, so it would make sense to let them keep the mags their rifles came with to drop them in a chassis. Mine came with the skinny, finicky to load, plastic 5 round Tikka single stacker so AICS mags are a definite upgrade for me; but if I had a CTR to begin with I probably wouldn't be so glad to change mag types
 
If the CTR magwell option means I could buy a .223 Tikka and use those mags (which I won't have to mess with like AICS mags), then I'd like a CTR option and I'll buy a .223 Tikka instead of futzing around with a Nucleus or something like that.
 
If the CTR magwell option means I could buy a .223 Tikka and use those mags (which I won't have to mess with like AICS mags), then I'd like a CTR option and I'll buy a .223 Tikka instead of futzing around with a Nucleus or something like that.
I was thinking the same thing, unfortunately the CTR is only chambered for .260 Rem, .308 Win, and 6.5 Creedmoor. If you want a .223 Rem Tikka in a KRG chassis, you'll have to use AICS mags. Pretty much limited to MDT poly mags.
 
Use MDT mags for all KRG chassis if you have a T3. Since MDT offers both polymer and metal magazines, there isn't really a reason to burn cash on AI mags. In fact, the factory CTR mags are defective in design. You can find posts and reviews on various websites with people complaining the mags won't seat or feed properly. Some people also complain even if the mags seat they don't lockup tight like the magpul or AI mags in other manufacturer actions. Lots of folks on this forum have gone with a different stock and mags to avoid this issue altogether.

Let KRG focus on their own designs and let Tikka focus on bettering their factory offering.

Polymer short action: https://mdttac.com/collections/poly...cts/mdt-polymer-magazines?variant=42963894726
Metal short action: https://mdttac.com/collections/poly...al-magazines-short-action?variant=42963885766
Metal long action: https://mdttac.com/collections/poly...tal-magazines-long-action?variant=45859520134
 
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The Google machine brought me to this thread, and I'm glad it did. I've got a cart full of KRG gear ready to head my way, but I wanted to get some clarity from those of you who have taken the Tikka CTR and dropped it into the Bravo.

1) Are you using the AI-3901 (5 round) and/or AI-3902 AICS mags? Any feeding issues to report? I'll be running a 6.5 Creed (CTR) and a 243 (T3).

2) With the Bravo cheek rest fully flat - assuming my CTR has the appropriately sized bolt stop - are you able to run the bolt and cycle rounds? It appears the cocking indicator is coming in contact with the cheek rest when A) The cheek is raised and B) If Tikka placed a LA bolt stop in your SA Tikka.

3) Any other considerations before ordering the KRG Bravo for my Tikka's?

Thank you KRG. This is the stock I've been hoping to find. You built it AND priced it right. I trust when a fully Tikka compatible cheek rest is available that you'll take care of those of us who ordered early. Thumbs up on the Bravo.

Tikka t3x 6.5 CTR with Bravo Stock
1. I’ve used both magazines with less than great results. AI are tight, but with a little sanding are fine. However the front of the mag will shift forward in the mag well which in turn pushes the lips into the bolt. The AICS mag needed so much modification. I got it to fit, but it compromised the lip integrity too much for me.

2. Previous page shows my outlined cutout of the shroud and indicator with a dremel. Took 10 minutes and looks clean.

3. Love it, but I’d like to make the CTR mags work if they can adapt the chassis to be as smooth running as the original system. Good luck
 
I should add, i talked to my gunsmith and he doesnt think the magwell will take more then an hour to mill out for CTR magazines. That means $60 for the TRG mag catch and $75 for chassis work so ~$135 to get the CTR magazines to work. If he wasn't booked out 1-2months i would get it done right now but i will wait till he slows down to get the work done.

Any update on this? I’ve talked to two gunsmith and they were reluctant and would rather just try and make the AI mags work. I’ll send him some business if he can stuff going. Probably a lot of guys on here are on that same boat
 
Was there any mention of whether the Arca Spigot will work with the Enclosed Forend?

It will fit if the regular spigot will, but IDK if spigots fit on the enclosed forends and the pictures and instructions don't really help. It kinda seems like the enclosed forend is to be used instead of a spigot but IDK-I don't really think it'd raise the bipod and extend it farther out vs the regular forend

Tikka t3x 6.5 CTR with Bravo Stock
1. I’ve used both magazines with less than great results. AI are tight, but with a little sanding are fine. However the front of the mag will shift forward in the mag well which in turn pushes the lips into the bolt. The AICS mag needed so much modification. I got it to fit, but it compromised the lip integrity too much for me.

According to the installation instructions for the chassis you can slide the forend forward and back slightly to tailor the mag fit. Did that not have any effect on keeping it from shifting forward?

I still haven't got to play with mine yet so I've only been able to read the instructions lol.
 
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It will fit if the regular spigot will, but IDK if spigots fit on the enclosed forends and the pictures and instructions don't really help. It kinda seems like the enclosed forend is to be used instead of a spigot but IDK-I don't really think it'd raise the bipod and extend it farther out vs the regular forend



According to the installation instructions for the chassis you can slide the forend forward and back slightly to tailor the mag fit. Did that not have any effect on keeping it from shifting forward?

I still haven't got to play with mine yet so I've only been able to read the instructions lol.
You can slide the forend and you can loose the screw on top of the trigger and move the trigger guard front/back a little bit too. I did it in my Bravo and now the AICS mags work flawlessly. It is the same procedure with all KRG chassis. I did that in my X-Ray too a couple of years ago.
 
Any update on this? I’ve talked to two gunsmith and they were reluctant and would rather just try and make the AI mags work. I’ll send him some business if he can stuff going. Probably a lot of guys on here are on that same boat

My buddies bravo is in the shop right now getting retro fitted, i dont know why people are talking about getting the aics mags to work, they work fine for me the CTR mags are just better in my opinion. when he gets the bravo back i will post up here and let you know how it works.
 
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