I ordered a bunch of bullets by accident, so now I am taking interest in reloading. I have just started learning about the equipment and process of it. What do I need to do it, and what do I need to learn first before starting?
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New reloader here. I need advice.
- Thread starter goodgorilla
- Start date
goodgorilla
Ask on the Hide...just kidding
Much to tell, that's where books, manuals and videos come handy, you want as much info as possible before you start buying all necessary equipment and components for whatever caliber(s) you will be reloading; do not rush into anything. Next is finding a (safe, quiet, cool and dry) space for a reloading bench. You may also check if reloading classes are available in your area, some ranges, or Gun Stores offer them from time to time; if not, then a friend familiar with reloading would be of great help.
This subject has been covered many times on the Hide, sure there are "stickies" on it; once you become a bit more familiar with the all reloading process and gear, this is when SH's members can really help, as you will have more specific questions. You will also discover that there are more than one way to skin a bear and many reloaders have their own version on how certain things should be done. Nevertheless, the basics are the same and you want to keep it simple at the beginning; later on, the sky is the limit and you can be as picky as you wish, in developing high quality reloads.
One warning: it can become very addictive; if you have friends, girlfriend, wife, kids, dogs, they may not understand why you are disappearing for so many hours in your reloading room, or garage. Be ready to face the consequences of becoming one of us; on the other hand, it will bring you much satisfaction, with the occasional headache brought up by a sudden inconsistency in your reloads (it can happen to anyone) but you will eventually fix the issue
Good luck and have fun.
Ask on the Hide...just kidding
Much to tell, that's where books, manuals and videos come handy, you want as much info as possible before you start buying all necessary equipment and components for whatever caliber(s) you will be reloading; do not rush into anything. Next is finding a (safe, quiet, cool and dry) space for a reloading bench. You may also check if reloading classes are available in your area, some ranges, or Gun Stores offer them from time to time; if not, then a friend familiar with reloading would be of great help.
This subject has been covered many times on the Hide, sure there are "stickies" on it; once you become a bit more familiar with the all reloading process and gear, this is when SH's members can really help, as you will have more specific questions. You will also discover that there are more than one way to skin a bear and many reloaders have their own version on how certain things should be done. Nevertheless, the basics are the same and you want to keep it simple at the beginning; later on, the sky is the limit and you can be as picky as you wish, in developing high quality reloads.
One warning: it can become very addictive; if you have friends, girlfriend, wife, kids, dogs, they may not understand why you are disappearing for so many hours in your reloading room, or garage. Be ready to face the consequences of becoming one of us; on the other hand, it will bring you much satisfaction, with the occasional headache brought up by a sudden inconsistency in your reloads (it can happen to anyone) but you will eventually fix the issue
Good luck and have fun.
goodgorilla
Ask on the Hide...just kidding
Much to tell, that's where books, manuals and videos come handy, you want as much info as possible before you start buying all necessary equipment and components for whatever caliber(s) you will be reloading; do not rush into anything. Next is finding a (safe, quiet, cool and dry) space for a reloading bench. You may also check if reloading classes are available in your area, some ranges, or Gun Stores offer them from time to time; if not, then a friend familiar with reloading would be of great help.
This subject has been covered many times on the Hide, sure there are "stickies" on it; once you become a bit more familiar with the all reloading process and gear, this is when SH's members can really help, as you will have more specific questions. You will also discover that there are more than one way to skin a bear and many reloaders have their own version on how certain things should be done. Nevertheless, the basics are the same and you want to keep it simple at the beginning; later on, the sky is the limit and you can be as picky as you wish, in developing high quality reloads.
One warning: it can become very addictive; if you have friends, girlfriend, wife, kids, dogs, they may not understand why you are disappearing for so many hours in your reloading room, or garage. Be ready to face the consequences of becoming one of us; on the other hand, it will bring you much satisfaction, with the occasional headache brought up by a sudden inconsistency in your reloads (it can happen to anyone) but you will eventually fix the issue
Good luck and have fun.
Thanks. I just ordered a manual, and I will see where I can find some lessons.
"All the knowledge in the world is written in books and all you have to do is read"
Buy reloading manuals and read the front part of the manuals, then read them again. Many of the questions you see in reloading forums could have been answered by these people if they had read their manuals.
Then buy a good single stage press, I have had my Rockchucker since 1973 a few weeks after getting out of the service and its still going strong.
And always remember this, some of the answers you get in forums are from people who didn't read the front of the manuals.
And Googling any reloading subject will give you hours of information to pack into your gray matter.
Read before doing and you will be a safer and better reloader.
Buy reloading manuals and read the front part of the manuals, then read them again. Many of the questions you see in reloading forums could have been answered by these people if they had read their manuals.
Then buy a good single stage press, I have had my Rockchucker since 1973 a few weeks after getting out of the service and its still going strong.
And always remember this, some of the answers you get in forums are from people who didn't read the front of the manuals.
And Googling any reloading subject will give you hours of information to pack into your gray matter.
Read before doing and you will be a safer and better reloader.
Might help to buy "The ABC's of Reloading" also. Good book, written by a person who lost fingers/hand when young in an accident with explosives. He offers a lot of good wisdom on reloading, with a definite bent toward safety.
I hope the manual you bought was by the bullet manufacturer you have bullets from??? Always good to have any reference material from the manufacturers you use, as they have info that will be more pertinent to your uses. I have at least four manuals, and I often cross-check between them, look up info on manufacturer's websites, and check with my Quick-Load Software---sometimes this can be confusing at first, but with enough research, you can usually find the answer to your questions on data.
Ombre and bigedp51 have great advice.
I also suggest strongly to try to get a class or find a mentor also to get started, better if you can do both. Read the manuals again after you have started your training, as they will make even more sense as you go on. Don't be frightened by the volume of material out there. Just keep at it, and you will learn more as you go. It is, as Ombre said, very rewarding and even addictive.
I hope the manual you bought was by the bullet manufacturer you have bullets from??? Always good to have any reference material from the manufacturers you use, as they have info that will be more pertinent to your uses. I have at least four manuals, and I often cross-check between them, look up info on manufacturer's websites, and check with my Quick-Load Software---sometimes this can be confusing at first, but with enough research, you can usually find the answer to your questions on data.
Ombre and bigedp51 have great advice.
I also suggest strongly to try to get a class or find a mentor also to get started, better if you can do both. Read the manuals again after you have started your training, as they will make even more sense as you go on. Don't be frightened by the volume of material out there. Just keep at it, and you will learn more as you go. It is, as Ombre said, very rewarding and even addictive.
Start slow and buy a reloading manual before buying anything else. Lyman has the best instructional section in my view. For a detailed overview of equipment, I wrote this up because the topic comes up a lot and I wanted to have a single source to refer people to: Beginner's Guide to Reloading Equipment | Bison Ballistics
And if you're not sure about something, ask. Unlike a lot of areas in life, it's really hard to come up with a stupid reloading question. You must understand before you do something. So ask until you do. There's no rocket science here, just a lot of detail.
And if you're not sure about something, ask. Unlike a lot of areas in life, it's really hard to come up with a stupid reloading question. You must understand before you do something. So ask until you do. There's no rocket science here, just a lot of detail.
Yeah, the manual I bought was from Berger. The bullets I bought were 180 grain target bullets, I thought bullets meant the whole ammo piece. In the end this may have been a good mistake, reloading seems pretty awesome. As of right now, I have a list of classes that will be coming up, but I have not determined a location where I can do the reloading yet so that is top priority right now, before I can enroll. I am pretty sure I will have a location, but you never know.
Unfortunately, the Berger manual is not a very good one when it comes to explaining the basics. I cut them some slack since it's the first edition and the other guys have been at this for decades, but I was sort of disappointed with the Berger book in general. You'll probably find that you want more than one book anyhow, but for instructional content, Lyman, Speer, Hornady are all pretty good. (In other words, the guys who make reloading equipment and not just bullets, tend to write the best instructions). Seems like everyone likes the ABC's book. I haven't read it, but it's popular.
Yes, Elfster did a great write up. Definitely want to check this out.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
First purchase going forward should be the "ABC's of Reloading". It will take you far enough down the road to where you might start understanding the finer points of the Berger manual.
Second purchase, if it were me, would be a good RCBS Starter Kit. One that comes with a good stout Single Stage Press, Scale, Powder Measure, and all the small basic tools one needs. This will get you going. As you progress you can add to the Kit but in the end you'll probably keep every item of the RCBS starter kit until they're old and worn, unlike some of the cheaper kits that you can't wait to "upgrade" all but the press.
Realize that every handloader/reloader out here has their own preference. That's the nature of of our "world". Eventually you will form your own opinions as well but for now, avoid the brain damage and start with a good "Starter Package". I suggested RCBS as I have a press that's been working hard for over 40 years and shows no sign of giving up soon. Others like Lyman and Hornady also make great single stage press kits. If you have to go "cheap" then Lee has a starter kit but I guarantee that in no time at all you will start replacing items with better ones. Why spend money you'll just have to spend again.
Dies are all over the spectrum from Lee on the low end to Competition Dies from Forster, RCBS, REDDING, Wilson, Hornady, and others. A Lee die is a good buy for the money and in my opinion it's the only thing they make that is of great quality. If you don't need a Competition Die for a Custom rifle that has a precision chamber, don't waste your money on them. I've found Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Dies to do a fantastic job of making straight, uniform ammo, for prices very similar to that of LEE but with better quality all around.
There, didn't I tell you that every handloader had their own opinions. These are a couple of mine
Second purchase, if it were me, would be a good RCBS Starter Kit. One that comes with a good stout Single Stage Press, Scale, Powder Measure, and all the small basic tools one needs. This will get you going. As you progress you can add to the Kit but in the end you'll probably keep every item of the RCBS starter kit until they're old and worn, unlike some of the cheaper kits that you can't wait to "upgrade" all but the press.
Realize that every handloader/reloader out here has their own preference. That's the nature of of our "world". Eventually you will form your own opinions as well but for now, avoid the brain damage and start with a good "Starter Package". I suggested RCBS as I have a press that's been working hard for over 40 years and shows no sign of giving up soon. Others like Lyman and Hornady also make great single stage press kits. If you have to go "cheap" then Lee has a starter kit but I guarantee that in no time at all you will start replacing items with better ones. Why spend money you'll just have to spend again.
Dies are all over the spectrum from Lee on the low end to Competition Dies from Forster, RCBS, REDDING, Wilson, Hornady, and others. A Lee die is a good buy for the money and in my opinion it's the only thing they make that is of great quality. If you don't need a Competition Die for a Custom rifle that has a precision chamber, don't waste your money on them. I've found Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Dies to do a fantastic job of making straight, uniform ammo, for prices very similar to that of LEE but with better quality all around.
There, didn't I tell you that every handloader had their own opinions. These are a couple of mine
The first thing I would do is examine your motivation. Basically, there are two. The pursuit of accuracy, and economy.
Now you have to estimate how much shooting you intend doing, and for what firearm? As a for instance, Handgun shooting, I trend toward economy, and the ability to craft ammunition unavailable from the manufacturers. With precision rifle, it's all about accuracy, and speed is very secondary.
Handloading will open up thousands of possibilities you won't get from factory sources. It is a bewildering selection of components made somewhat easier if you use a manual as a guideline. I would concentrate on basic reloading and wait on the finer points until you are able to appreciate the reasons. It will all come to you as you develop your skill. And, you may not care for anything more than safe, serviceable fodder. That might change as you see what's possible?
Unless you are "somewhat" committed, you could also reevaluate the investment of time and money. Maybe you can send the bullets back or sell them if you decide you just aren't into it, but if you are interested, there is no doubt that you will be a much smarter shooter. People that do not handload have a big gap in their knowledge. BB
Now you have to estimate how much shooting you intend doing, and for what firearm? As a for instance, Handgun shooting, I trend toward economy, and the ability to craft ammunition unavailable from the manufacturers. With precision rifle, it's all about accuracy, and speed is very secondary.
Handloading will open up thousands of possibilities you won't get from factory sources. It is a bewildering selection of components made somewhat easier if you use a manual as a guideline. I would concentrate on basic reloading and wait on the finer points until you are able to appreciate the reasons. It will all come to you as you develop your skill. And, you may not care for anything more than safe, serviceable fodder. That might change as you see what's possible?
Unless you are "somewhat" committed, you could also reevaluate the investment of time and money. Maybe you can send the bullets back or sell them if you decide you just aren't into it, but if you are interested, there is no doubt that you will be a much smarter shooter. People that do not handload have a big gap in their knowledge. BB
I would start watching this reloading series.
Mail Call Mondays #18 - Precision Rifle Reloading Overview - YouTube
Mail Call Mondays #18 - Precision Rifle Reloading Overview - YouTube
I always advise new handloaders to triple check their load data; two sources in print, and a third from on line. One must be from the bullet manufacturer, and another from the powder manufacturer, with the third source optional.
You'll be surprised with some of the discrepancies between them for the load your are working up.
Always begin with the starting load and work your way up to a load that your firearm likes. Never be in a hurry, never be distracted.
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
You'll be surprised with some of the discrepancies between them for the load your are working up.
Always begin with the starting load and work your way up to a load that your firearm likes. Never be in a hurry, never be distracted.
Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
First purchase going forward should be the "ABC's of Reloading". It will take you far enough down the road to where you might start understanding the finer points of the Berger manual.
Second purchase, if it were me, would be a good RCBS Starter Kit. One that comes with a good stout Single Stage Press, Scale, Powder Measure, and all the small basic tools one needs. This will get you going. As you progress you can add to the Kit but in the end you'll probably keep every item of the RCBS starter kit until they're old and worn, unlike some of the cheaper kits that you can't wait to "upgrade" all but the press.
Realize that every handloader/reloader out here has their own preference. That's the nature of of our "world". Eventually you will form your own opinions as well but for now, avoid the brain damage and start with a good "Starter Package". I suggested RCBS as I have a press that's been working hard for over 40 years and shows no sign of giving up soon. Others like Lyman and Hornady also make great single stage press kits. If you have to go "cheap" then Lee has a starter kit but I guarantee that in no time at all you will start replacing items with better ones. Why spend money you'll just have to spend again.
Dies are all over the spectrum from Lee on the low end to Competition Dies from Forster, RCBS, REDDING, Wilson, Hornady, and others. A Lee die is a good buy for the money and in my opinion it's the only thing they make that is of great quality. If you don't need a Competition Die for a Custom rifle that has a precision chamber, don't waste your money on them. I've found Hornady Custom Grade New Dimension Dies to do a fantastic job of making straight, uniform ammo, for prices very similar to that of LEE but with better quality all around.
There, didn't I tell you that every handloader had their own opinions. These are a couple of mine
Yesterday while I was picking up my new remington 700 bdl 7mm rem mag, I talked to the gun store owner about reloading. He pulled out a catalog and started to point out a bunch of stuff I should need to get started. He said I need a place to do the reloading, a work bench, a RCBS Rock Chucks Supreme kit, Dies for a 7mm rem mag, and a shell holder #4. He said that I should also buy some rounds that have the brass casing that I want to use, fire them and put them in a labeled bag fired once afterward. He told me that the starter kit is pretty much self explainatory with the illustrated manual that comes with the starter kit. He said once I get that stuff down I can move on to stuff like tumblers, and a few other reloading gadgets.
As for a location, my first choice was unavailable (my basement) but my second choice seems was available, so I will be reloading in a matter of time. I just have to help move a bunch of stuff out of the area where I need to put the work bench. Oh yeah, the gun store guy also said I need to have to work bench bolted to the floor, is that true?
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The gun store guy gave you some good advice. (A rarity from the Local Gun Shop - I'd keep supporting that guy's store). I don't know if "self explanatory" is what I'd call it, but the Speer manual that comes with the kit is pretty good. Starting with factory rounds isn't a bad idea for beginners - it will give you another data point for how accurate your rifle is (or if you just want to get out and shoot while you figure stuff out). But if you don't need the factory ammo, don't feel like you have to go that route. You can certainly get it done starting with fresh brass and save a little money.
I remember when I was 14 years old and getting my first reloading setup. I got off to a rocky start because the once fired and FL resized 220 Swift cases wouldn't chamber without a lot of force. I was dumbfounded and had my mom take me to the local gunsmith who discovered that the brand new RCBS size die was out of spec and wouldn't bump the shoulder back. He took some material off the bottom of the die and I was up and running and began my adventures in reloading ammo.
Since then I've had all kinds of stupid things that have happened to me both my fault and not that have snuck up on me. Which brings me to the point of my post. If possible try to find someone in your local that can show you all the shortcuts and nuances of reloading. That alone will save you some headaches. LOL, it really sucks to pull hundreds of bullets because Murphy reared his ugly head.
I don't mean to come off negative but just wanted to give you a heads up. Reloading is actually easy to do. It's not rocket science and can be very rewarding when things are done correctly. I had to learn everything the hard way, maybe you won't.
BTW you are welcome to PM me if you have any questions.
Some advice for now.
Resizing die...Don't screw the decaping rod/expander button/primer punch pin down too far or it will get bent and be ruined.
Start off with a good old balance beam scale. Electronic scales wack out on occasion. I've has 3 of them break on me.
Using a bright flashlight to check/look into every single round to make sure there is powder in it and that the height of the power is consistent.
Never assume a max charge in a reloading manual will work in your gun! FYI...learn what a ladder test is and apply liberally.
Don't start the reloading process unless you have the gun there with you. Checking sized cases and making up uncharged/unprimed dummy rounds to test for fit and function can avert a lot of hassle.
Since then I've had all kinds of stupid things that have happened to me both my fault and not that have snuck up on me. Which brings me to the point of my post. If possible try to find someone in your local that can show you all the shortcuts and nuances of reloading. That alone will save you some headaches. LOL, it really sucks to pull hundreds of bullets because Murphy reared his ugly head.
I don't mean to come off negative but just wanted to give you a heads up. Reloading is actually easy to do. It's not rocket science and can be very rewarding when things are done correctly. I had to learn everything the hard way, maybe you won't.
BTW you are welcome to PM me if you have any questions.
Some advice for now.
Resizing die...Don't screw the decaping rod/expander button/primer punch pin down too far or it will get bent and be ruined.
Start off with a good old balance beam scale. Electronic scales wack out on occasion. I've has 3 of them break on me.
Using a bright flashlight to check/look into every single round to make sure there is powder in it and that the height of the power is consistent.
Never assume a max charge in a reloading manual will work in your gun! FYI...learn what a ladder test is and apply liberally.
Don't start the reloading process unless you have the gun there with you. Checking sized cases and making up uncharged/unprimed dummy rounds to test for fit and function can avert a lot of hassle.
Not really. If it's light in weight it might not hurt to add a couple of wall anchors (into studs) to keep the wobble down. I reloaded for a year (while temporarily single) in an apartment using a Black and Decker Workmate, "C-Clamping" my press to it's top. Worked great and I could merely fold it up and put it in a closet when not using it.
My bench today weighs just short of 500#. I use the bottom shelf to store bullets, brass, and extra cases of powder. The top cabinet has more powder, primers, die sets, and bullets, in the spaces so I would guess it weighs just a little less than a filled water-bed. One thing certain, it doesn't move at all. I just had to make sure that he legs were directly over the floor joists
I am considering to start working with this bench:
Shop Kobalt Black Heavy Duty 3-Drawer Workbench at Lowes.com
Also, I'm going to go inspect the location where I plan to reload to see if it's a good place before ordering anything.
Shop Kobalt Black Heavy Duty 3-Drawer Workbench at Lowes.com
Also, I'm going to go inspect the location where I plan to reload to see if it's a good place before ordering anything.
A solid bench is a nice to have, not a necessity. A huge, heavy, bolted to the floor bench is overkill, but if it makes sense, I wouldn't fault you for going that route. What you must have is a bench top that is heavy and stiff enough to withstand the forces of working the press. Heavier is better - it keeps your stuff from bouncing around on the bench and powder from jumping out of cases. It has little if any impact on the quality of the loaded rounds. I've loaded plenty of rounds on a portable black and decker type bench when I lived in an apartment. Now I use a home made bench with three sheets of 3/4" plywood for a top.
So get as sturdy of a bench as you can realistically get away with and then don't worry about it. It's not like a woodworking bench where stability and heft are critical to its function, but since benches tend to be long term purchases, better to get a good solid one.
One caveat - while a flimsy bench will work with a single stage, it's not a good idea with a progressive. A Dillon 650 bounces around enough so that you risk spilling powder out of the cases as it indexes. The force you need to put on a progressive to operate it is a good bit more than a single stage. A sturdy bench reduces or eliminates the rattle.
The Lowes bench can be made to work, but it's not ideal for a couple reasons - the top is somewhat thin MDF, and when you look at how you'll have to bolt the press to the top, the way it's constructed is not ideal. Something like this, while a little more money, is configured in a better way: Grizzly.com
Something like this is perfect (although this is just plans): Rock-Solid Plywood Bench - Fine Woodworking Article
So get as sturdy of a bench as you can realistically get away with and then don't worry about it. It's not like a woodworking bench where stability and heft are critical to its function, but since benches tend to be long term purchases, better to get a good solid one.
One caveat - while a flimsy bench will work with a single stage, it's not a good idea with a progressive. A Dillon 650 bounces around enough so that you risk spilling powder out of the cases as it indexes. The force you need to put on a progressive to operate it is a good bit more than a single stage. A sturdy bench reduces or eliminates the rattle.
The Lowes bench can be made to work, but it's not ideal for a couple reasons - the top is somewhat thin MDF, and when you look at how you'll have to bolt the press to the top, the way it's constructed is not ideal. Something like this, while a little more money, is configured in a better way: Grizzly.com
Something like this is perfect (although this is just plans): Rock-Solid Plywood Bench - Fine Woodworking Article
Yeah from what you said about the lowe's workbench, I am now thinking about that bald eagle or the stack on 1.
Stack-On 1-Drawer Reloading Bench 20 x 40 Top Pegboard Backwall
Make sure the bench top overlap the base of a few inches, as you will need this to install your press. If this sounds confusing, then look at reloading bench on line, there is a link.
reloading bench plans | Home Decoration Advice
As you can tell, most have a ledge, it makes it more practical for the press. Also, as damoncali mentions, a sturdy, thick and heavy bench top is recommended. Regarding your question about the bench bolted down to the floor, the less flex you will have in your bench, the better it will be, so if you can bolt in down, I would recommend it.
Remember for location, safe (not accessible to children on their own), quiet (you do not want to be disturbed and forget what you were doing), cool (especially in summertime) and dry (humidity is not reloading component's best friend).
Have fun
Make sure the bench top overlap the base of a few inches, as you will need this to install your press. If this sounds confusing, then look at reloading bench on line, there is a link.
reloading bench plans | Home Decoration Advice
Remember for location, safe (not accessible to children on their own), quiet (you do not want to be disturbed and forget what you were doing), cool (especially in summertime) and dry (humidity is not reloading component's best friend).
Have fun
The place I am setting up is air conditioned and the room has it's own deadbolt. It's was a small studio that was used for filming some local commercials, which my friend is moving the stuff to a different place now. Only thing I am only worried that I will not be able to bolt anything to the floor or drill holes in the walls, but you guys don't say that I have to. I think I am going to end up getting the stack on 1 bench.
I bypassed bolting a bench to the floor. I built what you might describe as a shelf between three walls; two sides and across the back. Then the 2X4 frame is lagged into studs all the way around. The mission was to reinforce a working surface for my AmmoMaster, a little overkill, but it works. If I could get it through the door, I think it would easily support my wife's little car? BB
PS my door has three deadbolts.
PS my door has three deadbolts.
My bench is heavy but not bolted to anything. It's possible to over think it. The most important thing is a thick heavy top surface, preferably made out of real wood (plywood is fine) as opposed to MDF.
I think I have enough information to get started, I will very likely be able to get things moving this weekend. Besides that I have listed the cartridge components I want to work with, let me know what ya think.
Bullet: Berger 180gr target
Brass: Norma 7mm rem mag
primer: Federal 215 match
powder: Hodgdon 4350
Bullet: Berger 180gr target
Brass: Norma 7mm rem mag
primer: Federal 215 match
powder: Hodgdon 4350
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M
milo 2.0
Guest
If you buy this you'll be regretting it's size in a very short time. Storage is a premium in this game, even though you think you're starting out small. With a minimum of woodworking tools you can build a bench, miter saw, screw gun, maybe a level. Lowes, Home Depot will cut your sheet goods. And don't buy into MDF board isn't tuff, 2 sheets screwed and glued together is one stout table top, especially if framed right. Works well for shelving also.
I have a 24"x8 foot bench, and a 20"x6 foot bench mounted to the wall, and a free standing 3'x6' table or bench with 2 shelves on casters, wired on all four corners, and I still can't find room to do some things But if I had my shit together, the free standing table would suit my, and almost most peoples needs. Being able to walk, or work around the bench frees up a lot of room. Do wire for elec from the start though, it'll be a lot easier.
If you want a pic of this table, pm me and I'll email you some.
Milo
Same here, started with 24"x8', then added another bench of 24"x6 + numerous shelves . I am not an amazing carpenter but as strength and rigidity are more in order than style, it turned out well and leveled. Top is 2 sheets of 3/4" of plywood, frame is made out of 2"x4"'s and a few 4'x4's . Nice to have the space but if not the case, a smaller bench will work fine too, just need to be well organized, kinda like working in a tank, or a submarine. Not the case here, was Infantry, so still running out of room on my 24"x14' bench
I've never done any carpentry myself, but I do know a guy who has. Now, what are you guys suggesting? Building a reloading table from a blueprint?
I didn't go with the blueprint kind and it doesn't sound like Milo did either but he would have to confirm this. I first took my time thinking of how I was going to start my frame, a couple of little drawings of my own were enough to get me started. I did pay as much attention as possible to keep the all thing leveled, still had to make small adjustments once it was finished, as the concrete slab of my garage was not perfectly flat.
No experience with the blueprint kind...may be other SH members?
M
milo 2.0
Guest
GG,
If your friend has some skill, this shit is elementary. Just show him the pics in the links people have posted here. Though you'll want your legs in the corners, without overhang except for your press, and it's minor. Double layer the table top, just frame it upside down, single layer, then put your other board under it with glue, not a must, but, then line stuff up and screw the 2 together from the underside, and you wont have screw holes on the top.
Get your shelving cut at the same time the tops, just subtract 3 1/2" per 4x4=7", or 1 1/2" per 2x6=3" from the top to be able to fit the legs inside.
I do have that NRMA bench downstairs, from a blueprint, but I altered that with a wing on the right side because it was going in a corner, and didn't want to be sitting up against a wall.
If your buddy will help. it wont take much more than a day, he'll know how to, and I'd say under 250.00 will get you everything, including the elec parts at Home Dipshit pricing! May take longer for you to poly it up, and you'll want to do that. Mine's in my garage on a sloping floor, not level, but in essence the only thing that ever really needs to be level is your scale, and leveling that is no insurmountable issue.
Oh yeah, don't bother with big ass carriage bolts, those torx head screws, # 30 with built in washer will suck every bit of moisture out of the boards when tightened!
If your friend has some skill, this shit is elementary. Just show him the pics in the links people have posted here. Though you'll want your legs in the corners, without overhang except for your press, and it's minor. Double layer the table top, just frame it upside down, single layer, then put your other board under it with glue, not a must, but, then line stuff up and screw the 2 together from the underside, and you wont have screw holes on the top.
Get your shelving cut at the same time the tops, just subtract 3 1/2" per 4x4=7", or 1 1/2" per 2x6=3" from the top to be able to fit the legs inside.
I do have that NRMA bench downstairs, from a blueprint, but I altered that with a wing on the right side because it was going in a corner, and didn't want to be sitting up against a wall.
If your buddy will help. it wont take much more than a day, he'll know how to, and I'd say under 250.00 will get you everything, including the elec parts at Home Dipshit pricing! May take longer for you to poly it up, and you'll want to do that. Mine's in my garage on a sloping floor, not level, but in essence the only thing that ever really needs to be level is your scale, and leveling that is no insurmountable issue.
Oh yeah, don't bother with big ass carriage bolts, those torx head screws, # 30 with built in washer will suck every bit of moisture out of the boards when tightened!
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If you or a friend have the skill, this will be by far the cheapest route. You can make it as heavy as you need and exactly the right size. Blueprints is probably too big a word - you can copy a photograph of one that looks right. It's as basic as woodworking gets. A simple bench that will last for years can be made in a long afternoon if one knows what to do. The difference between a $250 home made bench to a $250 store bought bench is night and day. It might not be as pretty, but it will be a whole lot stouter.
The only wrinkle at all is that you have to be careful that the overhang permits the press to fit. You might need a little clearance for the mechanism and to make sure the bolts are going through the top in accessible places, but that's pretty easy stuff if you think about it before hand.
Well, the only suggestion I would offer is to start with your chair or bench. I looked for the perfect bar stool and built my loading bench based on the height of the chair, because you want to get your knees under it, comfortably. Which is also why I didn't want table legs in the way. I also built a shelf underneath to rest my feet, same plan, solidly secured to the walls. Consider comfort and utility first. BB
You really dont need an excuse to get into reloading but if you ordered a bunch of bullets by accident why not just turn around and try and resell them for what you paid for them?
I am guessing you are a new shooter too and saw the bullets and thought "Man that is really cheap ammo, I am buying it." Thinking you'd get complete cartridges. I think you might be wise to sell the bullets and shoot some more factory loaded stuff to understand basics before hitting the reloading bench. Wouldn't hurt to do all the research and reading now though.
I am guessing you are a new shooter too and saw the bullets and thought "Man that is really cheap ammo, I am buying it." Thinking you'd get complete cartridges. I think you might be wise to sell the bullets and shoot some more factory loaded stuff to understand basics before hitting the reloading bench. Wouldn't hurt to do all the research and reading now though.
So should I order the Rock Chucks supreme kit first so I can determine the maximum width of the table top? I guess what I am asking, is if there is an order in which I need to proceed. Also I just ordered the ABC's of reloading book.
Edit: Well, I just ordered the RCBS Rock Chucks supreme kit, 7mm rem mag dies, and the shell holder #4. I will probably be clearing out the location I intend to reload, then from there I can come up with some idea as to how to construct the bench. I've seen a few recommendations so far like:
1. The thing needs to be heavy/sturdy
2. Make it tall enough that I can stick my legs under it
3. Use hardwood
4. Make sure the table top is the right size for the press to be installed.
5. make sure the bolts are going through the top in accessible places, but that's pretty easy stuff if you think about it before hand
6. you'll want your legs in the corners, without overhang except for your press, and it's minor.
7. Double layer the table top, just frame it upside down, single layer, then put your other board under it with glue, not a must, but, then line stuff up and screw the 2 together from the underside, and you wont have screw holes on the top.
8. Get your shelving cut at the same time the tops, just subtract 3 1/2" per 4x4=7", or 1 1/2" per 2x6=3" from the top to be able to fit the legs inside.
Any more?
Edit: Well, I just ordered the RCBS Rock Chucks supreme kit, 7mm rem mag dies, and the shell holder #4. I will probably be clearing out the location I intend to reload, then from there I can come up with some idea as to how to construct the bench. I've seen a few recommendations so far like:
1. The thing needs to be heavy/sturdy
2. Make it tall enough that I can stick my legs under it
3. Use hardwood
4. Make sure the table top is the right size for the press to be installed.
5. make sure the bolts are going through the top in accessible places, but that's pretty easy stuff if you think about it before hand
6. you'll want your legs in the corners, without overhang except for your press, and it's minor.
7. Double layer the table top, just frame it upside down, single layer, then put your other board under it with glue, not a must, but, then line stuff up and screw the 2 together from the underside, and you wont have screw holes on the top.
8. Get your shelving cut at the same time the tops, just subtract 3 1/2" per 4x4=7", or 1 1/2" per 2x6=3" from the top to be able to fit the legs inside.
Any more?
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An often overlooked source of good, solid, and heavy, workbench tops is a house that's being torn down. A solid core door (front door or door to attached garage is usually solid) makes a great bench top. Even if it's painted in some horrendous color or pattern, just hit it with some paint stripper, sander, and then a coat of Urethane in your favorite shade.
If you can get to the house before the Demo crew, great. If not then hit up your local door store and try for one that has a large gouge out of one side.
An adjustable height stool makes the height less of an issue. I like mine to be at a height where I can comfortably operate the press while standing.
You don't need real hardwood - plywood and 2x4's and/or 4x4's is fine. MDF is fine where appropriate.
I screwed and glued the top of mine as described in #7. Don't underestimate how much glue you'll need - it can be a lot to coat both surfaces to be joined. And get enough screws to put a bunch in on a 6" grid. When the glue is dry (like 2 days later), take out the screws so you don't hit them with a drill if you ever mount anything on the bench top. If you do this right, it will be like a super think piece of plywood. You can repeat with a third sheet if you want. I used 3 3/4" thick sheets of plywood for the top. It's thick, solid, and very heavy. Two is probably enough.
Finally- make sure you think about where to put the press pretty carefully, or you'll wind up drilling another set of holes once you change your mind. I like mine about 8 inches from the corner, so it leaves the rest of the table edge unobstructed.
GG,!!!!!!!
There are a million great ideas from some skilled reloader/shooters on here. Keep it simple and don't over think this. Your not on a mission from NASA. Build or have your buddy build you a sturdy bench...say 4'x6'. Standard rectangle with a couple reinforcement studs on top for your work bench top and double 2x4 legs. Put 2-3/4 inch plywood sheets top on it with a white smooth wallboard glued or brad nailed to the top of plywood. Makes it easy to cleanup and easy to see if your spilling any powder when loading case, ect. Make it almost bar height. Lowes sells a cheap padded 29" swivel bar stool w a back for like $20. The whole bench shouldn't run more than say $150. You want it this high that way when your tired of sitting, you can stand and it's still at comfortable height. When you mount your press, make sure there are 2x4 under where you are going to lag bolt it. You set your storage bins on top of the bench at the back and keep under the bench open so when you sit your legs can go under and you'll be comfortable. Pretty simple really and cheap.
There are a million great ideas from some skilled reloader/shooters on here. Keep it simple and don't over think this. Your not on a mission from NASA. Build or have your buddy build you a sturdy bench...say 4'x6'. Standard rectangle with a couple reinforcement studs on top for your work bench top and double 2x4 legs. Put 2-3/4 inch plywood sheets top on it with a white smooth wallboard glued or brad nailed to the top of plywood. Makes it easy to cleanup and easy to see if your spilling any powder when loading case, ect. Make it almost bar height. Lowes sells a cheap padded 29" swivel bar stool w a back for like $20. The whole bench shouldn't run more than say $150. You want it this high that way when your tired of sitting, you can stand and it's still at comfortable height. When you mount your press, make sure there are 2x4 under where you are going to lag bolt it. You set your storage bins on top of the bench at the back and keep under the bench open so when you sit your legs can go under and you'll be comfortable. Pretty simple really and cheap.
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A heavy sturdy bench is what your after but in all reality you will not be putting a lot of force on your press, which is the main reason for a heavy sturdy bench. If you need to put a lot of force into the press, stop, something is wrong
Hell I just went to a second-hand store and found some tables with 1" thick pressboard tops for $25. If you haven't already ordered your press I have an old Pacific(Hornady) single-stage press, powder scale/dispenser that is in perfect condition and never used. It was a gift for my grandfather but he never used it. I would use it but already have a rockchucker supreme and a Dillon 650. Hit me up if you want it.
Just started reloading in January.ABC's of reloading is a good start, check out used book stores for old reloading manuals you can learn something from all of them. Did alot of research on the web, alot of good info out there. As far as equipment i posted a wanted to buy add on craigslist. Ended up with a large plastic tote of reloading equipment and supplies for 25 bucks. Had a rock chucker press, 5 sets of dies, Primers, 4 lbs of powder, Forstrer case trimmer, beam scale, some old manuals and alot more. Had to repair a few items but it was well worth it.
The problem with old manuals is that any load data printed in them doesn't automatically update as the manufacturer of the powder changes their product.
Go ahead and use the old manuals for loading techniques but go to the powder manufacturer's website to at least verify your load data prior to loading. May not be an issue with light loads but when you use a "max load" from a 1975 book you may have a problem. There are many reasons for suggested loads to be reduced. Among them are:
Continued testing has shown them to be incorrect.
Materials have changed and old powder loads now cause excessive pressure.
Powder formulas have been changed for a whole myriad of reasons (reduced flash, better ignition, less fouling, etc).
If you have a computer (and it's assumed you do if you're reading this), ALWAYS use the current data as posted by the powder manufacturer as your guide. THAT information is updated all the time. Also settles disagreements when you get different data from a Lyman, Lee, Sierra, Berger, etc, loading manual.
Since you've been at reloading for only a short while, just remember the mantra of all those who've gone before you. Start low and slowly work up. YOUR rifle may do better with a load well below max and it will do so a lot safer than going "full throttle". If your round is fast enough to hit your target, at the desired range, and have the desired result, then why push the envelope?
Measuring devices!!!!! Very Important!!!
You will need to have a method to be sure of your Propper COAL (case over all length) specific to you chamber and bullet choices.
You will need to have a way to measure Propper Max Case Length, again, specific to your chamber.
You will need to be able to set your dies properly to avoid over sizing the cases.
I suggest a decent pair of electronic calipers, and a Hornady Comparator set, and a COAL gauge, also from Hornady. Be sure to have spare batteries if you go digital on the calipers.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
You will need to have a method to be sure of your Propper COAL (case over all length) specific to you chamber and bullet choices.
You will need to have a way to measure Propper Max Case Length, again, specific to your chamber.
You will need to be able to set your dies properly to avoid over sizing the cases.
I suggest a decent pair of electronic calipers, and a Hornady Comparator set, and a COAL gauge, also from Hornady. Be sure to have spare batteries if you go digital on the calipers.
Cheers,
Tim
The Right to Keep and Bear Arms Shall NOT be Infringed
I don't have a problem with the intent and the suggestions but I do have a difference of opinion about a couple issues.
First, as a reference, the old manuals are very valuable. Some of them have data for cartridges that have fallen out of favor and are not included in the newer editions. Let's say you pick up a 256 Marlin, or a Winchester chambered in 348. Good luck finding data in the newer manuals. Good luck finding brass and ammo, for that matter. lol
Second, a valid point about the various powders being manufactured differently and therefore, the minimum and maximum charges might be slightly different, but aren't we always supposed to start low and work up, so the only person affected is the guy that doesn't look any further than the MAX, (but safe) load. Supposedly, in their test gun.
Third, I'm sorry but I believe some of the published data in the past few years has been revised by the legal staff. It's all about guidelines and safe proceedures and I occasionally progress past their "safe max loads" when it's safe to do so in my gun. In other words, SOME data needs to be taken for what it is, covering their butt. BB
PS I would hate to tell you my 300WM load that I have been using for 20 years!
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I got tired of a bunch of manuals taking up shelf space that I could use better for storing components
I bought a very easy to use Internal Ballistic's program called "Load from a DisK". Cost me about $60 as I recall. I can now actually create my own cartridge if I desire. There's a template for entering the brass dimensions at various points (much like one would set a CNC machine up to create a case). If using an already recognized caliber chances are that the case data is already in the database for the program.
You then enter your bullet parameters, Case Length, capacity in H20 if you didn't use a standard case from the database, OAL of the finished round, then select a powder. You then get a start load, and optimum load based on powder type and case volume, and a maximum recommended load. Also gives speeds and pressures along the way.
I may be an "old fart" (60 years shooting and 40+ handloading) but I made the transition to the digital world a long time ago. Books are great but the information is available a lot quicker when it's either coming from an online database or an internal ballistic's program.
In the end though, everyone will choose what's most comfortable for them.
I think the gun store guys advice was to shoot some factory rounds and save the brass in a plastic bag so he could have fire formed brass to measure down the road. This gun store guy is one helluva guy with some great advice.
Takes all kinds deadshot. I don't tweet and never had a facebook account. Linkedin canceled my account because of disuse. I enjoy working with my hands, I find it relaxing to process brass via manual labor. My son, on the other hand would break out the chainsaw to cut one branch. He couldn't do anything without electricity, can't even add a few numbers without reaching for the smart phone. Takes all kinds, we're just different. You're really that short of shelf space? BB
