New to reloading, help

[HenryTheAce]

Hello everyone, I’m wanting to dive head first into reloading. I’m a buy once cry once kind of individual (thanks to all you sick individuals on this site) I’m 27 and figured I gotta stop spending all this money on factory ammo and just reload. Anyway, I know nothing about reloading and honestly all the info out there makes my head spin. I finally got everything in the cart and before I buy it just wondering it I can get any insight, maybe tips, or help. Disregarding brass, bullets, powder, and gunpowder (that’ll be research on my end and another thread for questions).

Wanting to reload 223, 6.5cm, 300blk, & 450bm.

Here’s what I got so far:
• Hornady LNL AP press
• Hornady & Lyman book
• Shells plates/die bushings
• Lyman ammo checker for all 4 cartridges
• Frankford Arsenal Platinum series case prep/trimmer
• Frankford Arsenal Platinum series digital powder scale
• Funnel’s/Reloading Bleacher blocks
• Hornady Case lube
• Hornady 2L Sonic Cleaner with solution
• Digital Caliper
• MagnetoSpeed V3
• Hornady 4-Die Set 450bm
• Hornady Match 2-Die 6.5cm
• Lee Pacesetter 3-Die 300blk
• RCBS 2-Die AR Small Series Tape Crimp

Am I missing any essentials besides Powder, Brass, Primers, & Bullets?

Any recommendations on other DIE’s?

- 223 will be loading for KAC LPR
- 6.5 for only DT STS A1 with TS Customs barrel
-300blk for just plinking subs
-450bm for hunting loads both supers/subs.

 

[SpeedyR]

looks pretty solid. Personally I'd get a Frankford arsenal rotary tumbler with SS pins instead of the sonic cleaner.

Make your own spray lube or buy Dillon. Might be hard to find isopropyl alcohol right now to make you own but I seem to recall a hide member selling it (lanolin and alcohol). I had a few stuck cases with One Shot and none with Iso/Lanolin.

I'd also recommend a balance scale instead of the digital scale to get started. But I'm old school. I have both and use them pretty often to confirm each other weights.

 

[Gatorshark]

I believe all new reloaders should start on a single press. Besides, many precision shooters migrate back to a single stage press after some years of reloading.

It's not JUST about learning, quality control and trial and error are much more forgiving.

I'd go with a high quality single stage. I have both on my table btw.

 

[HenryTheAce]

Roger that, thank you! Is the tumbler method with the pins better performing then sonic? I’ll look for that spray too, awesome.

That’s what I was bouncing back and forth about as well with the Single Stage vs AP. Is the powder measure on a AP as accurate or any issues with it vs measuring it out on a scale?

 

[straightshooter1]

+1 on staring out with a single stage press. . . much easier to keep track of what's going on with reloading and learn from it.

 

[straightshooter1]

Roger that, thank you! Is the tumbler method with the pins better performing then sonic? I’ll look for that spray too, awesome.

Tumbler with SS pins work way better than sonic in getting them really clean . . . just gotta be sure you get the right size pins so they don't get stuck in the smaller cases.

Hot water + Dawn + a dash ( like 1/2 tsp Lemon Shine) + 1 hr of tumbling = sparkling shinny clean brass. Will need to determine a drying method that's you like.

That’s what I was bouncing back and forth about as well with the Single Stage vs AP. Is the powder measure on a AP as accurate or any issues with it vs measuring it out on a scale?

You'll need to decide on just how much precision you want. More precision + speed = $$$$

 

[NCHillbilly]

My recommendation before you even open all those wonderful packages of equipment is to get at least one up to date load manual, and read EVERYTHING up till the load recipes start. You will learn the basics you need to know to create safe loads, just understand that the more you learn, the more questions you will have. Bring your questions back to the hide, and someone will be able to help. I've been loading for 25 years and still learn something almost weekly. Welcome to the hobby, and kiss your spare money goodbye.

 

[straightshooter1]

Welcome to the hobby, and kiss your spare money goodbye.

Yeah, and so much for any savings over using factory load. . . . at least for the near future. It takes a while to reach a break even point and even harder when going down the reloading rabbit hole.

And BTW HenryTheAC, you might want to just start reloading for just one of your caliber's to get through a big part of the learning curve before buying equipment for the others as you may find or decide that some tools may not be what you really like for those other calibers.

 

[HenryTheAce]

Awesome info guys, thank you a bunch! I held the reins in a bit and switched over to a single stage press, just for the 6.5cm caliber. Going to get my feet wet first here. Lol it’s quite pricey yes, but considering all I do in spare time is clean already clean guns and just stare at them I figured I mine as well be productive ??

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Instead of the progressive, get a forster coax or a mec marksman.

I have a progressive and didnt like doing rifle cartridges on it. So I went and bought a single stage to reload rifle. If you want download pistol stuff, progressive is good to go..

 

[HenryTheAce]

Nothing but good reviews on the Forster. Was talking with another buddy who has one and I think the single stage is better for my needs. Do you need certain size shell holders for the Forster like you do for the Hornady AP to hold the shells?

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Nothing but good reviews on the Forster. Was talking with another buddy who has one and I think the single stage is better for my needs. Do you need certain size shell holders for the Forster like you do for the Hornady AP to hold the shells?

The coax has a, more or less, universal shell plate. As you operate the press, it opens and closes around the extractor groove.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

@HenryTheAce You are pretty much describing my exact setup.

I load 9MM, 45ACP, 5.56, 300BO, 6.5CM, .308, 6.5PRC and 300PRC just fine.

- Mitituyo digital calipers 500-196-30
- frankford rotary tumbler and steel pins
- frankford dryer
- frankford impact bullet puller
- hornady universal decapper
- hornady comparator tool and inserts
- hornady OACL tool and inserts
- forster case trimmer and 3way

Or a Trim it 3 way or everyones favorite Griraud.


If you shoot a lot of crimped brass, hornady makes a nice swager for the press.

I've loaded a single stage press before and it's not condusive for bulk non precision ammo production.

 

[HenryTheAce]

Awesome, thanks for the info! Expensive hobby indeed ?

 

[SpeedyR]

reading back on it I agree- start with a single stage press to get the basics down. I have an RCBS that's over 40 years old and I still use it a lot for developing loads and loading precision rounds. Everything you need to reload can be used with either press. Unless you are pumping out 300+ rounds at a time the single stage is fine (450BM, 6.5CM) and developing loads for the 300 and 5.56.

Eventually get a progressive or something similar (I have a Dillon 550) for bulk ammo.

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Awesome, thanks for the info! Expensive hobby indeed ?

Buy once cry once, lol.

Get ready.

 

[want2learn]

wow....you have a lot of stuff, that's awesome

I might also suggest considering adding eye protection/safety glasses at least while priming.
The Hornady cam lever bullet puller is really nice to have.
Recently i find myself using the Forster datum dial kit more than i thought i would...nice little easy to use set up.

I haven't yet transitioned to neck sizing and expansion tools....perhaps soon.

go slow, stay safe, ask questions....lots of awesome people here with tons of experience to help.

 

[dski]

Your list looks good. Add a single stage and a bullet comparator.

Although not asked for, I was in your exact shoes just over a year ago. Since then I have reloaded many thousands of rounds. (all for my bolt action guns) Here are a couple of things I learned the hard/expensive way. (not universal truths, just lessons learned from a still relative newbie.)

1. As mentioned, start with a single stage. I bought the LNL as well and it sat for a year. I now use it for certain things. I picked up a rockchucker for ~140 on sale and you can use LNL bushings. (Although they are at different heights from the progressive...grr.) For prep or bulk, the Progressive is amazing and saves mountains of time. For precision, I couldn't get the powder dumps or the bullet seating to be within the tolerances I like. I find myself using the progressive for resize, decap and prime and my single stage for seating.
2. SA stuff works great on LNL, LA I have problems. (I don't reload pistol)
3. Imperial die wax for the LA stuff. Saves a ton of time drilling out stuck cartridges.
4. Reloading is about precision, not saving money. When talking to your significant other....it is all about saving money
5. Get a notebook and track everything! Brass usage, load data, etc. Saves a ton of time.
6. Small pieces of paper on the trays to track what it is and brass usage.
7. Watch youtube and hit the forums as you are doing. It will save you a ton of time on setup and optimization.
8. Invest in the inlinefabrication stuff. Makes the world so much easier moving things around and organizing in your workspace.
9. When you find a powder that works and you are happy with it, buy at least enough to last the barrel on your gun. Or multiple barrels.
10. Soooo....many....more!

Happy reloading!

 

[lightman]

Your equipment list will work fine. The only thing wrong with asking about equipment is that someone else can fabricate a different list that will work just as well. There is a lot of brand loyalty.

Just something that I don't remember seeing mentioned. You can teach yourself to reload. Books and the internet are available. But it really helps to have a mentor. Someone near you that you can get some hands on experience from.

Reading through all of the above post I see a few things worth mentioning. First of all, buy those two books and read them before you buy any equipment. Second, seriously consider a single stage press. Three, I liked the suggestion of dropping the digital scale in favor of a beam scale. If you really get serious you will want a better quality digital scale later on. Fourth suggestion, only buy one die set. Pick a caliber, buy a die set, learn how to use them and gain a little experience. My suggestion would be the 223.

Books------ The 2 that you listed are fine. I would suggest buying three. I like the Lyman for general use. Then I would buy the one from the bullet maker that you plan to use the most. And then I would buy the one from the powder company that you plan to use the most. I find myself referring to the Lyman and the Sierra more that any of the others.

Presses----- The CoAx is a favorite and is a fine press, however I'm not a fan. I would rather have a heavy "O" frame press with compound linkage. A heavy duty press is like a 3/4 ton truck. You may not need the strength or leverage all of the time but its there if you do.

Dies------- They all work. Theres really not a wrong choice. I have some from about every maker, even some that are not in business anymore. I've started buying the Redding Master Hunter set for my bolt guns. It has a standard full length sizing die and their competition seater.

Scales------- Buy a beam scale from Dillon, Hornady, Redding or RCBS to start with. You can add a nice digital later after you have some experience.

Measuring tools---------- I would splurge here and buy a good quality caliper, either dial or digital. Brown and Sharpe, Mitutoyo or Starrett are favorites.

Good Luck with your choices. Feel free to ask questions. We all started out as rookies!

 

[Snuby642]

Head space comparitor is considered manditory by most reloaders.

I did not see it listed, a bullet comparitor as well. Many posts for help will require information provided by these. I have no brand preferences.

Lock-N-Load® Headspace Comparator & Anvil Base Kit - Hornady Manufacturing, Inc

Lock-N-Load® Headspace Comparator & Anvil Base Kit Lock-N-Load® Headspace Comparator The Lock-N-Load® Headspace Comparator extends brass life, improves accuracy, and enhances safety. The gauge measures...

www.hornady.com

 

[straightshooter1]

Yeah, it's mentioned about keeping notes, which is very useful and a very good tool in learning and getting the process refined. Here's a sample of one that I use and keep with each batch that I process:

 

[Franko]

Here are a few suggestions:

1. "Top Grade Ammo" by Glen Zediker - there is a lot of very good info in there
2. A set of check weights - having a way to know you scale is working properly is crucial
3. Don't buy a cheap digital scale; either get a balance beam (affordable, supremely accurate, but slow) or a Chargemaster 1500 lite (fast, relatively accurate, but about $250 or so with a reducing insert to keep overthrows to a minimum)
4. Buy an Inline Fabrication mount for your press with quick change capability. Then you can use the same mount for things like barrel vices, priming tools, etc.
5. For priming look into the RCBS Auto Prime, its a great tool and much easier than doing it with a hand primer, you can also buy a quick change plate for it that fits the Inline Fabrication mount
6. Seriously consider a Giraurd case trimmer if you can afford it; its expensive but if you will be processing a lot of brass you will eventually buy it anyways and then wonder why it took you so long...
7. Try to buy whatever you are looking for here on the PX, that will save you a good deal of money if you can be patient
8. Check your local regulations to see what limits you might have on the amount of powder and primers you can have and if there are special storage requirements. For example, I live in California and am limited to no more than 10k primers and need a special container for my powder because I have more than 20 pounds (but less than 50).

Welcome and hope you enjoy your stay.

 

[HenryTheAce]

Thank you everyone really appreciate it. Just ordered the Hornady and Lyman books. Haven’t purchased any equipment yet, definitely going to go single stage though instead of progressive since I’m in no demand for pumping out massive numbers and want to hone in more on precise work and learning. Thanks again. I’ll be back with more questions.

 

[FLIGHT762]

Here are a few suggestions:

1. "Top Grade Ammo" by Glen Zediker - there is a lot of very good info in there

For a new reloader ^^^this^^^ would be my #1 recommendation. I have his earlier book " Reloading for Competition". The old book and I assume the new book goes through all of the different ways to make accurate ammo. Bushing dies, micro seaters, expander mandrels, Lee collet die W/ a Redding Body die, how and why to use a comparator, how and why to use a CBTO comparator, arbor presses etc.

It teaches you all of the different ways to get where you want to go. You can pick the direction you go. Gives you the information about the tools and why they are used.

Well worth the money. Basic reloading manuals do not have this type of information in it. When I fully read the old book, the little light bulb went off above my head.

Because you're here, you probably want to know how to reload the accurate stuff. You need to educate yourself.

 

[Burning sensation]

A hand priming tool is valuable tool to me. I love the RCBS universal(no shell holders needed), but I’m sure there are other great ones out there.
The rotary tumbler others have mentioned is a lifesaver. Even your primer pockets will be spotless.

 

[Rocketmandb]

The rotary tumbler others have mentioned is a lifesaver. Even your primer pockets will be spotless.

You can get the same with ultrasonic with the right solution. I use BoreTech Case Clean and have no issues with primer pockets. I prefer ultrasonic because it's just easier. Drop the cases in the cleaner, run for an hour, dry. The cases won't be shiny, but they'll be clean.

 

[Burning sensation]

You can get the same with ultrasonic with the right solution. I use BoreTech Case Clean and have no issues with primer pockets. I prefer ultrasonic because it's just easier. Drop the cases in the cleaner, run for an hour, dry. The cases won't be shiny, but they'll be clean.

Great information, thanks. I have not tried the BoreTech products in my ultrasonic cleaner.