New to the Tremor3 reticle

Nivium

Sergeant of the Hide
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Minuteman
Oct 10, 2020
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Hide-- I recently got a NF NX8 2.5-20 for my 6.5 Grendel hunting rig. The reticle is Tremor3, which I have not had before. Does anyone out there run a TRM3 with a 6.5 grendel and roughly a 20 inch barrel? If so, could someone explain what the windage dots represent for the caliber and what mil drop you use (for a 200 yard zero) at ranges from 300 to 800? Using a mix of hornady black 123 grain ELD factory rounds (getting about 2420 muzzle velocity), as well as handloaded long-range accubond 129gr (getting 2330 MV). Scope is 1.5" inch high.

Additionally, any advice on the tremor3 would be hugely helpful. Thanks in advance
 
I've been using T3s for several years ... I've had six different scopes with T3s and currently have two, including the same one you have, the 2.5-20x T3.

I have used a couple of different T3s on a grendel for a couple of years ...

39856902023_a1406d9e7c_k.jpg


That's an L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 ... with a SIMRAD and a Radius keeping it company.

==
You do need to learn to calculate the wind dot values. The manual I used I downloaded from Applied Ballistics, but its no longer up on their site. Here's a thread on the T3 that might help
And hopefully that ^^ tutorial will also.

But there are basically three possible answers for most rifle/cartridge combinations, "3" and "4" and "5" ... as in the wind dots are worth either 5 MPH (for magnum rifles) or 4 (for regular rifles) and 3 for like 556 rifles. So for your grendel the answer will almost certainly be "4" MPH ... that's what it was for mine. I had an 18 inch barrel and usually shot hornady 123 ELD-M.

So, with your kestrel, you measure the x-wind speed in MPH ... like 10 MPH at 270 across the bullet path ... that's 2.5 wind dots, so you hold 2.5 wind dots left. If the wind slacks you can back off maybe 1 wind dot and hold 1.5 wind dots (6 MPH hold).

Other than that, be aware of where your aerodynamic jump becomes significant. At that point (maybe 800yds or so), you might want to cease using the wind dots and switch back to using regular mils, assuming your ballistic calculator does a-jump.

If you are strictly "hunting" with the T-3 ... you'll likely be inside 500yds and can use the wind dots normally at full value through out.

The T3 is a "no dial" reticle ... so don't dial, except when zeroing. Dialing throws off the wind dots. If you are going to shoot beyond 1000yds .. .then you'll need to dial. And if you do, then don't use the wind dots, that's the simplest answer, although in theory you can if you dial a full 5 mils up, that halves your wind dot values and if you dial a full 10 mils up that quarters your wind dot values. So your "4" MPH wind dots would be "1" mph if you dialed 10 mils up. But out that far, a-jump is gonna matter, so I'd be using the mils.
That's one of the nice things about the T3, you can use the wind dots or not, depending on the situation.

I sold that grendel a couple of years ago, but I just checked and I do still have the entry on my phone AB. With the ELD-M at MV 2389 at 30F, 1250 feet, with a 100yd zero I'm showing 0.9 mils for 300yds and 3.3 mils for 500yds and 8.4 mils for 800yds. That was with a 3 inch center ( I was using rails on rails, for various reasons).

I would not dial more than 15x to shoot at that 8.4 mils to keep the part of the reticle I'm using out of the bottom 1/3 of the glass. Just superstition :D ... and if shooting further, I'd dial down to 10x. I shot out to 1,100yds with my grendel and was on 10x at that distance.
 
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I've been using T3s for several years ... I've had six different scopes with T3s and currently have two, including the same one you have, the 2.5-20x T3.

I have used a couple of different T3s on a grendel for a couple of years ...

39856902023_a1406d9e7c_k.jpg


That's an L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 ... with a SIMRAD and a Radius keeping it company.

==
You do need to learn to calculate the wind dot values. The manual I used I downloaded from Applied Ballistics, but its no longer up on their site. Here's a thread on the T3 that might help
And hopefully that ^^ tutorial will also.

But there are basically three possible answers for most rifle/cartridge combinations, "3" and "4" and "5" ... as in the wind dots are worth either 3 MPH (for magnum rifles) or 4 (for regular rifles) and 3 for like 556 rifles. So for your grendel the answer will almost certainly be "4" MPH ... that's what it was for mine. I had an 18 inch barrel and usually shot hornady 123 ELD-M.

So, with your kestrel, you measure the x-wind speed in MPH ... like 10 MPH at 270 across the bullet path ... that's 2.5 wind dots, so you hold 2.5 wind dots left. If the wind slacks you can back off maybe 1 wind dot and hold 1.5 wind dots (6 MPH hold).

Other than that, be aware of where your aerodynamic jump becomes significant. At that point (maybe 800yds or so), you might want to cease using the wind dots and switch back to using regular mils, assuming your ballistic calculator does a-jump.

If you are strictly "hunting" with the T-3 ... you'll likely be inside 500yds and can use the wind dots normally at full value through out.

The T3 is a "no dial" reticle ... so don't dial, except when zeroing. Dialing throws off the wind dots. If you are going to shoot beyond 1000yds .. .then you'll need to dial. And if you do, then don't use the wind dots, that's the simplest answer, although in theory you can if you dial a full 5 mils up, that halves your wind dot values and if you dial a full 10 mils up that quarters your wind dot values. So your "4" MPH wind dots would be "1" mph if you dialed 10 mils up. But out that far, a-jump is gonna matter, so I'd be using the mils.
That's one of the nice things about the T3, you can use the wind dots or not, depending on the situation.

I sold that grendel a couple of years ago, but I just checked and I do still have the entry on my phone AB. With the ELD-M at MV 2389 at 30F, 1250 feet, with a 100yd zero I'm showing 0.9 mils for 300yds and 3.3 mils for 500yds and 8.4 mils for 800yds. That was with a 3 inch center ( I was using rails on rails, for various reasons).

I would not dial more than 15x to shoot at that 8.4 mils to keep the part of the reticle I'm using out of the bottom 1/3 of the glass. Just superstition :D ... and if shooting further, I'd dial down to 10x. I shot out to 1,100yds with my grendel and was on 10x at that distance.
This is a perfect answer. Thanks a lot for writing it up and for checking your phone AB. All the best
 
I've been using T3s for several years ... I've had six different scopes with T3s and currently have two, including the same one you have, the 2.5-20x T3.

I have used a couple of different T3s on a grendel for a couple of years ...

39856902023_a1406d9e7c_k.jpg


That's an L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 ... with a SIMRAD and a Radius keeping it company.

==
You do need to learn to calculate the wind dot values. The manual I used I downloaded from Applied Ballistics, but its no longer up on their site. Here's a thread on the T3 that might help
And hopefully that ^^ tutorial will also.

But there are basically three possible answers for most rifle/cartridge combinations, "3" and "4" and "5" ... as in the wind dots are worth either 3 MPH (for magnum rifles) or 4 (for regular rifles) and 3 for like 556 rifles. So for your grendel the answer will almost certainly be "4" MPH ... that's what it was for mine. I had an 18 inch barrel and usually shot hornady 123 ELD-M.

So, with your kestrel, you measure the x-wind speed in MPH ... like 10 MPH at 270 across the bullet path ... that's 2.5 wind dots, so you hold 2.5 wind dots left. If the wind slacks you can back off maybe 1 wind dot and hold 1.5 wind dots (6 MPH hold).

Other than that, be aware of where your aerodynamic jump becomes significant. At that point (maybe 800yds or so), you might want to cease using the wind dots and switch back to using regular mils, assuming your ballistic calculator does a-jump.

If you are strictly "hunting" with the T-3 ... you'll likely be inside 500yds and can use the wind dots normally at full value through out.

The T3 is a "no dial" reticle ... so don't dial, except when zeroing. Dialing throws off the wind dots. If you are going to shoot beyond 1000yds .. .then you'll need to dial. And if you do, then don't use the wind dots, that's the simplest answer, although in theory you can if you dial a full 5 mils up, that halves your wind dot values and if you dial a full 10 mils up that quarters your wind dot values. So your "4" MPH wind dots would be "1" mph if you dialed 10 mils up. But out that far, a-jump is gonna matter, so I'd be using the mils.
That's one of the nice things about the T3, you can use the wind dots or not, depending on the situation.

I sold that grendel a couple of years ago, but I just checked and I do still have the entry on my phone AB. With the ELD-M at MV 2389 at 30F, 1250 feet, with a 100yd zero I'm showing 0.9 mils for 300yds and 3.3 mils for 500yds and 8.4 mils for 800yds. That was with a 3 inch center ( I was using rails on rails, for various reasons).

I would not dial more than 15x to shoot at that 8.4 mils to keep the part of the reticle I'm using out of the bottom 1/3 of the glass. Just superstition :D ... and if shooting further, I'd dial down to 10x. I shot out to 1,100yds with my grendel and was on 10x at that distance.
Nice summary. Thanks
 
I've been using T3s for several years ... I've had six different scopes with T3s and currently have two, including the same one you have, the 2.5-20x T3.

I have used a couple of different T3s on a grendel for a couple of years ...

39856902023_a1406d9e7c_k.jpg


That's an L&S Mk6 3-18x T3 ... with a SIMRAD and a Radius keeping it company.

==
You do need to learn to calculate the wind dot values. The manual I used I downloaded from Applied Ballistics, but its no longer up on their site. Here's a thread on the T3 that might help
And hopefully that ^^ tutorial will also.

But there are basically three possible answers for most rifle/cartridge combinations, "3" and "4" and "5" ... as in the wind dots are worth either 3 MPH (for magnum rifles) or 4 (for regular rifles) and 5 for like 556 rifles. So for your grendel the answer will almost certainly be "4" MPH ... that's what it was for mine. I had an 18 inch barrel and usually shot hornady 123 ELD-M.

So, with your kestrel, you measure the x-wind speed in MPH ... like 10 MPH at 270 across the bullet path ... that's 2.5 wind dots, so you hold 2.5 wind dots left. If the wind slacks you can back off maybe 1 wind dot and hold 1.5 wind dots (6 MPH hold).

Other than that, be aware of where your aerodynamic jump becomes significant. At that point (maybe 800yds or so), you might want to cease using the wind dots and switch back to using regular mils, assuming your ballistic calculator does a-jump.

If you are strictly "hunting" with the T-3 ... you'll likely be inside 500yds and can use the wind dots normally at full value through out.

The T3 is a "no dial" reticle ... so don't dial, except when zeroing. Dialing throws off the wind dots. If you are going to shoot beyond 1000yds .. .then you'll need to dial. And if you do, then don't use the wind dots, that's the simplest answer, although in theory you can if you dial a full 5 mils up, that halves your wind dot values and if you dial a full 10 mils up that quarters your wind dot values. So your "4" MPH wind dots would be "1" mph if you dialed 10 mils up. But out that far, a-jump is gonna matter, so I'd be using the mils.
That's one of the nice things about the T3, you can use the wind dots or not, depending on the situation.

I sold that grendel a couple of years ago, but I just checked and I do still have the entry on my phone AB. With the ELD-M at MV 2389 at 30F, 1250 feet, with a 100yd zero I'm showing 0.9 mils for 300yds and 3.3 mils for 500yds and 8.4 mils for 800yds. That was with a 3 inch center ( I was using rails on rails, for various reasons).

I would not dial more than 15x to shoot at that 8.4 mils to keep the part of the reticle I'm using out of the bottom 1/3 of the glass. Just superstition :D ... and if shooting further, I'd dial down to 10x. I shot out to 1,100yds with my grendel and was on 10x at that distance.

I knew I licked you for some raisin. 😜

I’m new to T3 as well and really want to get to know it.
 
Think about it like a BDC reticle for wind... each dot is worth more wind as you get into more balletically efficient loads.

77smk with ar15 most people call each dot 3mph, 175 smks at ~2600 most people call 4, 190smk at 3100 most people call 5... 230 bergers at 2800 is closer to 7.

As you can see, a your loads get more efficient, the dots have less discriminatory power, and as you get further, you shoot through different winds which further complicate things. The solution isn't perfect, but it's a great visualization for the fact that "i need to hold for wind as distances get further", especially for less efficient calibers.

You can dial with t3, just either check with your eyes what your wind guess should be according to your elevation adjustment and use that as your wind correction. Additionally, if you dial 5 mils, it roughly halves the wind values (ie, for a 77smk, each dot becomes 1.5mph).

I want to reiterate... This isn't supposed to be a perfect one shot one kill thing for elr, it's just a bdc.
 
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